I've taken the opportunity to write another email as
it is early morning and I am still waiting for the sun
to come out. The climate here in the Sacred Valley is
usually much warmer than in Cusco, almost tropical,
but maybe not today as it is cloudy and looks like it
could rain any minute. I am waiting for it to improve
before setting off on my own to visit Ollantaytambo.
Alfredo and Neomy are busy supervising the
construction of a wall on the perimeter of their house
here in Urubamba, but hope to be finished later in the
day so that the three of us can visit Pisac together,
which is about an hour by bus from here.
When I left the internet cafe on Monday, I expected to just pop by and see Gorky for half an hour and then head homeward, which
just shows you never know what to expect here. When I
walked into the salon where Lydia and Gorky have their
shop, sharing the salon with six other vendors, he was
there and really pleased to see me two years on after we
had met, having tried several times to get my email
address from various musicians. As it happened they
were just awaiting my arrival before performing a
little ceremony. Here in Peru, 14th February isn't
just ´'dia de amor' but 'dia de amistad' as well
(Friendship Day).
Gorky produced a bottle of sparkling
wine and the others rustled up enough glasses and we
stood outside the salon entrance and I had to go first
and throw some of the wine into the left door sill and
then more to the right door sill and then throw the
rest of the wine into the room. One by one the others
followed suit and one of the vendors poured confetti
over all of us, and Gorky filled up the wine glasses
again and we drank a toast. Then stools were produced
and we all sat together and Gorky served up portions
of roast chicken and potatoes for everyone. I wasn't
really hungry having had lunch with Lydia earlier in
the day, but there was no way I could decline this
lovely offering of friendship from these indigenous
and lovely people. In order to contribute to the
festivities I paid for several litres of my favourite
beer, Cusquena and coke for the children and we spent
the remainder of the afternoon thoroughly enjoying
ourselves and having a laugh. Later in the afternoon I
had a lovely surprise when Catalina entered the salon
and I recognised her flowing blonde hair and went over
to her and she was as pleased as I was to meet up
again and told me that she had spoken on the phone
with her fiance Victor who was also pleased that we
had found each other. She was accompanied by Victor's
Mum and his son and it was nice to meet them too. I
could not get over how much the lad resembled Victor, the likeness was unbelievable. Later when the temperature dropped Gorky lent me a poncho from his shop to go home in and Lydia walked with me
to Plaza des Armas and put me in a taxi for home,
after having agreed that I would pop by again the next
day.
That evening I only went out briefly. Juan had phoned
to say the group would be playing at La Retama at 8.30
and I said I would be along to watch. Luckily, yet
again the restaurant people did not mind me just being
a spectator and not partaking of the meal or buffet
(as I usually eat with Neomy and Alfredo somewhere
locally before going out). I really enjoyed the show
which lasted over an hour. The band were backing group
to a series of dancers in beuatiful costumes and the
whole show really enjoyable. I will probably see it
again at some point before leaving Cusco next
Thursday. Afterwards the band were booked to play at some event
outside Cusco and I did not fancy leaving the centre,
so said my goodnights to them and Juan said he would
come out to Marcavalle next morning around 11.30.
The next morning Neomy, Alfredo and I were up early
and after breakfast went to the artesania centre at
Wanchaq, a place I always visit for souvenirs when in
Cusco. Unfortunately we were way too early and more
than half the shops were still closed. I was
especially interested to see the jewellry shop where I
bought beautiful silver items on two previous visits,
but as always I could not remember the number of the shop; I
thought it might be No. 276 but when eventually it was
opened up, it turned out to be a different jeweller
altogether. I plan to go back next Wednesday and will
go late morning next time when all the shops will be
open. (In the afternoons they close from 12 noon or 1
pm until 4 or 5 for lunch and siesta, so late morning
really is the best time to visit.)
After visiting Wanchaq centre we still had time so
walked to another series of market stalls in the
Centro de Fraternidad. As always I was on a quest for
more CDs but it has reached a point now where it is
hard for me to find anything new in the genres that
interest me most. But I did succeed in buying three
DVDs - two are films and the other a documentary about
Cusco and Machu Picchu. One film is about the downfall
of Tupac Amaru and the other is called 'Pizarro y Los
Incas' and I am hoping this is the one in which Juan,
Angel, Milton and others feature as actors.
We were still in the market when Juan phoned, having
arrived at Marcavalle earlier than he had said he would -
something highly unusual for Peruvians who are usually
late. So we took a taxi back for quickness and he
waited with Neomy and Alfredo while I nipped upstairs
to change and grab Gorky's poncho, and then we headed
into town. We went straight to see Gorky and Lydia and
then the four of us went out for the rest of the day.
I wanted to see if Fernando's bar was open but
unfortunately it wasn't but neighbours said he might
call in soon, so we went to an upstairs bar and
restaurant and ended up staying several hours, sharing
a few beers and playing pool.
There was an 8 foot pool table in the next room and the way they play it here, 2, 3 or 4 people can play. Instead of keeping to one
colour and then potting the black, in Peru you
can pot any ball and once potted, you remove it from
the pocket and place it on a score board. If you pot
the white or miss the ball you have to remove one of
your balls and put it back on the table. The winner is
the one with the most balls at the end. I was pleased
that I played quite well, in one game having 10 of the
15 balls in my part of the score board. Playing pool
here is alot cheaper too - it costs about 85p to use
the table for an hour and one can manage 3 games in
that time.
Later in the afternoon I said my goodbyes and Juan
said he would phone later to confirm if the band were
playing at Le Retama or not. By this time it was very
much cooler so that by the time I got home I was
really feeling cold. Neomy and Alfredo were still out
so I decided to climb into bed and read whilst
listening to a CD for a while to warm up, but I must
have been feeling under the weather or something
because I simply could not get warm. What with
shivering and an upset stomach I really thought I was
going down with something. Later when Neomy and
Alfredo came back they produced loads of extra
blankets and made me hot tisanes of aniseed to settle
my stomach and eventually I felt a little better, but
no way well enough to go out again. When Juan phoned I
had to decline on going out and he understood and we
agreed to meet next day in the plaza at 12 noon.
Alfredo went out and brought back takeaway roast
chicken but I was unable to eat mine (anyone who knows
me well will know that is practically unheard of!!!).
I fully expected to be stuck in bed at least for a
couple of days but after a good night's sleep I woke
up next morning as good as new! Neomy and Alfredo went
out but I decided to stay at home and have a long hot
shower, sort out things to take to Urubamba later in
the day and generally relax until about 11 am. It was
another hot sunny day when I finally left and I found
my way easily by bus into the centre. The buses have names
rather than numbers and the one I take is called Expreso El Zorro which means the Fox Express!!
I arrived early in Plaza des Armas and decided to do a
tour and look in all the shops. I was really glad I
did so because finally finally after 4 years of trying
to find one, I found a beautiful calender with Andean
photos for each month of the year. Then walking
outside the shop a street seller was selling CDs and I
chose two originals by new bands that later proved to
be as brilliant as I had hoped. Later relaxing in the
sunshine on a bench opposite La Retama, various people
came to chat. Many of the children selling things come over just to chat, at the same time hoping to sell their finger puppets or postcards. If you buy anything from one, suddenly there are 5 or 6 others trying to sell you something similar. I ended up
buying about 6 postcards and 7 or 8 finger puppets to
add to my collection. I just love chatting to these
children, who are so pleased to find a gringa who can
speak their language, and I simply cannot resist buying
at least something from each of them.
Then Juan arrived along with other musicians and he
asked where I wanted to go and I said how about a few
more games of pool. Four of us headed for the same
restaurant bar, three of us to play pool but one was girlfriend to one of the musicians and she was happy just to watch. I didn't fancy anything alcoholic and neither did Juan who had had a tooth filled the previous day, so we ordered a jug of chicha morada (a soft drink made from purple maize which is like a
punch with chopped fruit added). After a few fun
games, Juan's friend Alfredo arrived and we ended up
playing for two and a half hours altogether. It was
just as well we were indoors because the sunshine
turned to the most horrendous rainfall with thunder
and one would have been drenched in seconds in such a
downpour if outside. At 3.30 I had to go and Juan put
me into a taxi, as I had agreed to meet Neomy and
Alfredo at the bus terminal where the buses leave for
the Sacred Valley. We were to meet each other at 4,
but we all arrived early and by ten to four the bus
was on its way. Over here the buses wait until full of
people and then set off, rather than keeping to a time
table. As always I enjoyed the hour and a half bus
ride to Urubamba, because the andean countryside is so
beautiful. Soon enough we were descending to the
valley floor around a series of curves and it all
looked so beautiful, the town nestled beneath the
majestic mountains that appear to be so close you can
almost reach out and touch them. Unfortunately it was
too late in the day to take photos - I took a couple
but each time the flash came into play which probably
means the mountains won't be evident.
On arrival we walked to the house and left our things
and then went out to enjoy the remainder of daylight,
with me smothering myself in mosquito repellant,
remembering how I was a mosquito feast on the train
back from Machu Picchu last August. We had a light tea
in a nearby cafe later on and when I asked Alfredo if
he felt like playing pool he said yes and we walked to
a place higher up in the town which had 3 different
tables and other smaller games for the townspeople to
enjoy. We had one game and were teaching Neomy how to
play at the same time. Afterwards we watched 3 men
play on the next table which was about 10 foot in size
and where they played with just 3 balls, two white and
one red. There are no pockets. The aim is to hit the
red ball with one of the whites and for the returning
ball to hit the other white - something which must be
remarkably difficult to achieve. Whilst in that games
hall there was a torrential downpour. It's the rainy
season here at the moment with more rain never too far
away. Afterwards I spent an hour in an internet cafe near the
house until Alfredo came back for me and then it was
an early night and up again early this morning.
Looking up for a brief moment the weather appears
sunny outside now, so I am going to suggest an early
lunch to Neomy and Alfredo and then head off to
Ollantaytambo for a couple of hours strolling around
there this afternoon. I love that little village so
much. Then hopefully later we will visit Pisac
together before heading back to Cusco. Earlier this
morning Alfredo and I looked around the market but
despite going through CDs at the 4 stalls I could find
nothing of interest. It is only a normal market day
today whereas 3 times a week vendors come from far and
wide; unfortunately not today.
Juan has gone back to Puno today to pick up his
passport which is being renewed and it being an 8 hour
bus ride each way won't be back until Saturday, so I
asked Alfredo his friend if he would mind accompanying
me to Kami Kase club tonight as Arco Iris are
performing and I am looking forward to seeing them
again. Amazing that I arrived last Sunday and it is
now Thursday and I still haven't made it to Kame Kasi
or Ukukus yet! Finding someone to take me is never a
problem as lots of musicians are eager to accompany
me, knowing that I will buy them a few beers! The
problem is trying to keep it down to just one or two.
Tomorrow I will visit Gorky and Lydia again and I am
sure if I invite them to join me in the evening they
will be pleased to accompany me. On Fridays and
Saturdays sometimes more famous bands play at these
venues and I will be eagerly checking out who is on in
order not to miss something really worth seeing. These
bands play about 11 pm and I am meeting Alfredo at 9,
so will finally catch up with Fernando and his wife at
their bar tonight.
