Addendum to final email

Hi again,

It's Saturday afternoon and I am packed and all ready
to go, albeit not too enthusiastic about the long haul
flight home. We leave for the airport in about an hour
which allows time to write the final few paragraphs
about this latest adventure.

We had the most incredible time at the pena last
night. The venue, La Candelaria, was huge with a
corner stage, quite large dance floor and the enormous
high ceiling'd room filled with tables and benches,
enabling the whole clientele of around 350 people to
be seated in comfort. Our table of 8 included 5
Peruvians celebrating the birthday of a young lad.

Starting with a pisco sour which was included with the
price of the entrance we continued to share a few jars
of Cusquena beer and a couple of plates of those
delicious snacks, one of them chicharon de pollo which
is deliciously crunchy fried chicken pieces. The show
began at 11 pm, beginning with saya dancers including
one diablada (a man dressed as a woman) and a sikuri
band. The diablada dancer was especially funny as he
kept trying to kiss various men in the audience and
drag them up onto the dance floor, sometimes with
ferocious resistance on the part of the men in
question! Soon loads of people were on the floor,
holding hands and dancing faster and faster to that
traditional auctoctonal music until the song came to
an end and everyone sat down again. A few words from
the compere and then the first dancers in costume
appeared, the women arriving first with their whirling
skirts and then joined by the males who were equally
flamboyantly dressed. Then the resident band appeared
and apart from the ingression of the sikuri band from
time to time, were the main backing sound for the
whole evening's festivities. Interspersed between
dancers were opportunities for people to take to the
floor and dance salsa, merengue, cumbia etc and each
time the floor filled en masse, the people dancing
with gusto.

Another part of the evening's proceedings was the
introduction of all foreigners present to the
Peruvians, first of all the people concerned standing
up and introducing themselves. Once the people on our
table realised someone from England was among them
they really enthusiastically welcomed me and made us a
part of their evening thereafter. At one point all the
foreigners were standing out front holding the flag of
their country and there were people from USA, France,
Spain, Italy, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Panama,
Domincan Republic, Mexico and Colombia. This was okay
and not too arduous but later on the compere involved
us all that bit further by calling the name of the
country and the people had to get up and go out front
and the band played a song from that country and the
person had to dance something typical from that
country. As you can imagine I was dreading this part,
wondering what on earth I could do as a representative
dance of England, and as the compere worked his way
through various countries, the people on our table and
ones around us were calling out 'Inglaterra' with me
trying desperately to hide my flag under the table and
seriously contemplating diving down after it!!! Much
to my relief when the time came, the compare called
England, Switzerland, Luxembourg and France together
and told us to rock and roll. None of us could do this
properly but did the best we could to the song by the
Beatles called 'She left me standing there'! The best
part was the sheer affection and enthusiasm all the
Peruvians showed to all the foreigners, calling out
Bravo and clapping wildly. This was so readily
apparent that it made one feel really welcomed.

Peru is very rich in its culture and the dance
displays that followed throughout the evening were
truly marvellous, representing the three parts of the
country - mountains, coast and rain forest. The final
part was taken over by Black Peruvian dances, and
these were amazing. At the end the final dance was the
champions of the Marinera which is representative of
Northern Peru. This couple were so amazing that they
were encored again and again. I've never seen such
incredible elegance in any dancing and such
unbelievable skill and dexterity.

By the time we got home it was 4 in the morning and we
were all exhausted. Needless to say we got up too late
this morning to make another visit to the beach
worthwhile and after a leisurely breakfast went out
one last time for me to get the final items I wanted
to take home, last minute gifts etc. After a huge
lunch we had a siesta as well for a couple of hours
and having packed everything ready for the journey I
just had time for this last internet visit before we
head out for the airport.

A couple of things I forgot to mention in yesterday's
email was that whilst in the huge central market we
passed an area where pets were for sale, lots of the
most adorable little puppies, but what fascinated me
the most was the baby iguanas for sale. These were
bright green and about six inches long and so
incredibly tame. Lizards in Europe disappear in a
flash as soon as you move but these welcomed being
held in the palm of your hand, and looked so
unbelievably cute looking up at you. I would have
given anything to have been able to take one home with
me, but of course it is impossible what with all the
restrictions on carrying livestock aboard aircraft.
Perched on top of the iguana cages were small green
parrots who were not restrained in any way and could
fly away if they wanted to but chose not to, and one
could handle and stroke their heads and they did not
mind at all. To see these birds and creatures so
relaxed around human beings is marvellous to see.

The other thing I forgot to mention was that among all
the activity on Agua Dulce beach, the crowds of people
swimming in the sea etc, were lots of rowing boats
bobbing up and down on the gentle rolling surf waves,
which at intervals set off heavily laden with people
for a boat ride. All this with huge flying pelicans
with their wings outspread skimming across the waves
in between all the swimmers and boats. I sure hope the
photos I took capture the sheer vitality of it all.

Well that's it then folks. Just the journey home ahead
of me, which probably won't vary much from previous
trips homeward. The only other thing I purchased today
was lottery tickets - one for the big 6.7 million sole
prize tomorrow, the other for today's daily lottery.
You can imagine what I would do if fortunate enough to
win it - I'd be on the next plane and looking for a
house to buy in Cusco!!!!

Bye from Peruvian soil until the next trip.
Best wishes from Angela

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The end of the adventure!

Hi again,

It's Friday night and unexpectedly I have an hour free
to write my closing email bringing this latest
adventure to an end. I am in Lima and really enjoying
my longer than usual visit here.

After lunch on Wednesday we enjoyed the last of the
warm sunshine on the patio at home whilst the work men
completed their work. It was only later that I
realised that Neomy had taken all the CDs out of their
boxes and arranged them in the CD carrying case, the
boxes to be thrown away as excess weight. The only
problem being that we did not write the CD titles onto
the CDs first!!! Identifying each one with its cover
is going to be an awesome task later. I have two weeks
to do the best I can before seeing Carlos and Aquiles
on my next trip to London.

In the evening Alfredo came back to Cusco with me, the
work still being unfinished which meant that Neomy had
to stay on and supervise proceedings. She accompanied
us to the colectivos and three of us were waiting for
two more passengers to appear which didn't happen.
After about 15 minutes we managed to convince the
driver to drive down near the bus stop in hopes of
finding two more passengers. All of us were calling
'Cusco, Cusco' including me (much to the amusement of
locals waiting to get transport home!). Finally we
were on our way and the driver did really well getting
us to Cusco in 45 minutes which is about half the time
it takes by bus. When he reached the drop off point
and the others got out, he said he was now a taxi and
where did we want to go, and in no time we were back
at the house.

I had about half an hour to finish packing my suitcase
before setting out again. I arrived at La Retama in
time for that last show which lasted about an hour and
then waited outside and chatted to Juan's friend
Alfredo whilst waiting for the band to come out and I
was absolutely delighted that those little children
came to say goodbye. Their mother with baby on her
back held back and the children came running, the 4
year old straight onto my lap for a cuddle with the 6
year old trying to climb on too!! There were two
little brothers as well who were pleased to make
themselves known to me.I was so pleased that I saw
them one last time, not thinking I would do so having
been absent in Urubamba all day. When it was time to
go they all gave me a kiss and I gave them the cash to
buy one last icecream. Then it was goodbyes all round
to all the musicians with me admonishing Alfredo to
make sure Juan got to bed early and did not go
drinking and risk losing his flight the next morning!

I was home and in bed by 10 pm with two alarms set for
4.30 the next morning.As it happened I woke up at 3 am
and did not dare go back to sleep again in case I
overslept. I read for half an hour before having a
shower and getting ready. By quarter to five we were
having coffee and in the time we had left before
leaving at 5.45 both of us removed the munya from all
the little branches (all of which had been drying out
on the table all week) and secured it into a plastic
bag for the journey. I am going to really enjoy those
munya infusions when back home; it will take me
straight back to the wonderful times I have
experienced here.

At the airport I was soon checked in and Alfredo and I
had coffee and some breakfast while waiting for Juan
to arrive.Our plane was about half an hour late in the
end and we were in the air by 8.20 instead of 7.50 am.
I felt incredibly sad looking out of the window and
seeing Cusco for the last time until 2006. It always
affects me this way when I leave Cusco. I love that
little town so much. The flight was a pleasant one and
by the time we were served breakfast and drinks it did
not seem long until we were descending towards our
Lima landing. Also during the flight Juan and I
listened to my music on the iPod, sharing one set of
headphones, and one of the songs appealed to him so
much he was writing down the words with a view to the
band including it in their repertoire thereafter.It's
called 'Prisionero de Amor', a really catchy tune with lovely words. Although we had been assigned seats
separately I managed to convince the guy next to
me to change seats with Juan and in the process he
gained a window seat instead of being between window
and aisle so was probably just as pleased with the
exchange.

Coming down the steps of the plane at Lima the heat
hit us like a sledgehammer.We simply could not believe
how hot it was which made me really look forward to
our planned day at the beach the following day. When
we walked out into the airport I still did not know if
Erika had read my message so was consequently really
delighted to see her waving and we went straight over,
and soon negotiated a taxi to take us to San Juan for
30 soles. We were also planning to visit the embassy
that morning and as time was getting on we got the
driver to go straight to the embassy instead and Erika
waited downstairs with my things whilst I accompanied
Juan to the visa department to lodge his application
for a visa. This took about an hour and we were unable
to finalise his visa that day because he first has to
buy his return flight, with the return date
confirmed. Only once this has been done will the visa
be issued. My contribution was writing the invitation
letter without which the visa would not have been
granted. Juan will return to Lima next week after his
sister has bought his ticket. When Juan arrives in
England next month he will stay with us for a week or
two and then move on to London where there are lots
more opportunities for him. If he arrives on 25 March
as planned I will be on Easter holidays from work so
will be able to show him around a bit of the west
country before he moves on to London where most of the
Peruvian community live.

By 12.30 we were back at the house and it was lovely
to see Erika's Mum again who always makes me so very
welcome. Then Erika, Juan and I had an excellent
seafood lunch in a nearby restaurant before Erika had
to say goodbye for the afternoon and head off to work
for a 3 pm start. Meanwhile whilst waiting for our
food to arrive, Juan phoned Eva, the girl we met at
Agustin's house whilst in Puno, so that we could
arrange to meet her in the afternoon.Then before
setting off for work Erika put us onto the correct bus
to get to the University Park, saying it would take
about an hour to get there and we both memorised her
instructions on how to get back.

Amazingly we managed to get off the bus at the right
place and within 5 minutes Eva caught up with us and
she took us on quite a tour. I felt slightly
overwhelmed by Lima which is such a busy place with so
many people, and tourists like me very vulnerable. (I
stayed as close to Eva as I could with Juan walking
behind us to make sure we were all right. To begin
with he felt just as nervous as I did. Lima is a far
cry from the tranquility and cosiness of places like
Puno or Cusco, where one constantly bumps into people
one knows.

We visited el museo de la inquisicion y del congreso,
but this visit upset Juan somewhat as it detailed the
persecution and inquisition of the incas. I found the
dialogue a bit hard to follow as they speak so fast in
Lima, so alot of it went right over my head. After
that we walked for what seemed like miles until we
came to a huge central market area, the object being
to see what CDs were available.As it happened I found
a brilliant CD by a new band from Ayacucho called Los
Taytas, at an incredibly low price for an original CD.
I also bought a series of 3 CDs of San Juanitos and a
DVD about the Inca Trail. Eva suggested another place
to visit but Juan said it would be too risky for me
there so we gave it a miss. As the time approached 6
pm, I remembered Erika saying it would start to get
dark at 7 pm, and said we really ought to be getting
back as we would never recognise where to get off the
bus in the dark, and luckily did not have to wait too
long for a bus. By this time the three of us were all
dying of thirst in that hot humid weather, gasping for
every blast of fresh air coming in from the open bus
windows. On the outward trip someone got on the bus
with half frozen drinks but no such luck on the way
back. I know I would never have recognised where to
get off the bus but luckily Juan did. When I realised
we had got off at the right place I felt quite
surprised as initially everything looks the same. We
had a bit of time to spare, knowing that Edgar would
not arrive at the house for us before 8 pm, so the
three of us headed straight for the restaurant where
we had had lunch and proceeded to enjoy a couple of
iced beers each, made even more pleasant by the
waitress agreeing to put on one of the San Juanito
CDs! Then Juan and Eva walked me to the door and
handed me over to Erika's Mum before heading back to
the centre, Juan to come to the house to accompany
Erika and me to the beach at 8 to 8.30 the following
morning.

Edgar arrived and we had lots to chat about until it
was time to leave the house and go to meet Erika from
work. Then we got into a taxi and headed for Barranco,
the object being to have a few beers whilst listening
to some music before heading homeward again. After
making exhaustive enquiries we just could not find out
which pena the group El Polen play in and had to give
up on that quest. Maybe someone who reads this email
on my web page will be able to come forth with the
information on where this group plays. We ended up in
in a discotheque bar called Hakuna and enjoyed a
couple of hours there listening to the music, sharing
a couple of jars of Cusquena and ordering two plates
of sharing snacks - the one called Alitas Picantes was
yummy - pieces of fried chicken, a load of crisply
fried cheese straws and chips with shredded lettuce
and cucumber complete with very spicy guacamole dip.
The other plate - Tequenos - was a load more of the
crispy cheese straws with chips and the guacamole
without the added spice. These are obviously the
Peruvian equivalent of tapas in Spain. We finally got
home about 1 in the morning, by which time I was more
than ready for bed having been up 22 hours! All day I
had been suffering from a really bad cold which came
on in the evening on that drive back from Urubamba. I
must have got through a whole loo roll blowing my nose
every couple of minutes all day and never thought I
would get to sleep despite feeling so tired but
amazingly I slept through until 7 am without waking up
once.

A cool shower later we were having coffee and Juan
phoned to say he would be with us in about 45 minutes
so Erika and I went out to buy bread rolls and other
things to make a packed lunch to take to the beach
with us. We bought 9 French baguette style rolls,
sliced ham, creamy cheese and tomatoes to make the
rolls, crispy sausage rolls still warm from the oven,
lucuma flavoured drinking yoghurt to have with our
breakfast and then outside we enjoyed a large glass of
freshly pressed orange juice which was delicious. It
took the juice of 10 pressed oranges to make those 2
glasses of juice so you can imagine what that would
cost back home. Here in Peru where fruit is so
plentiful the cost per glass was just 20 pence!

Walking back we bumped into Juan who had just got off
the bus and he came in and enjoyed breakfast with us.
He had bought his return bus ticket the night before
and in order to get back to Cusco in time to play
tomorrow night he had to go on the 2 pm departure - a
journey lasting 23 hours, but at least he was
travelling with a reputable company - Cruz del sur -
with reclinable seats, meals and drinks served during
the journey, videos to watch etc. Whilst having
breakfast Erika and I prepared the rolls, wrapping his
into a separate package as he would only be able to
come to the beach for a while and have to make his way
back around 11.30 am.

Two bus rides later we arrived at municipalidad de los
churillos and the downward walk to the covered bridge
across the road with fountains each side and dolphin
statues to the beach I loved so much in 2003 - Agua
Dulce. We reached the beach about 10 am and although
the sun was hidden by the misty haze it was another
warm day. Soon we were ensconced in deck chairs right
by the edge of the sea complete with sun parasol,
which cost just 2 pounds to hire for the whole day.
Juan was enchanted with the sea and whilst he was
still with us we took various photos, only convincing
him to take off his shoes and roll up his trousers and
go into the water for a paddle, by promising to take a
couple of great photos. All three of us had fun in the
water. Poor Juan could hardly bear to drag himself
away when it was time to leave, he was enjoying
himself so much. Although not many people were there
when we first arrived as the day progressed the beach
got more and more packed with people, and soon vendors
of every description were plying their wares back and
forth among the crowd, and I was enchanted as before
by the sheer chaoticness of Peruvian beaches. We had
icecreams three times from various vendors and other
snacks as well as all the food we had brought with
us.Going past were vendors of hot tamales, sugary
donuts called churros, crisps made from potato or
camote (yams), candy floss, toffee apples, bags of
sweets, fried broad beans, peanuts and other snacks,
plates of marinated seafood (Cebiche), cake, spicy
yellow potato and egg snacks doused in green chilli
sauce, pots of jelly and blancmange, etc etc. Interspersed among all this were
photographers dragging huge pictures of dolphins
covorting in the sea, decked with climbing flowers,
blow up toys and goodness knows what else, as
backgrounds for photos. Each one more rediculous than
the last so that we were in fits of laughter. Other
vendors were laden with buckets and spades or bathing
costumes, even beach outfits. Being on a Peruvian
beach is a really fascinating experience and I enjoyed
every single moment. At one point even a cart carrying
a bread oven was dragged past with hot rolls and cakes
being sold.

We stayed on the beach until 5 pm and both of us were
reluctant to leave then except I had to get to a bank
before they closed, not wanting to risk putting my
card in an ATM machine outside banking hours. At least
the banks when open have patrolling vigilantes (bank police) outside
which is some protection against being robbed or
machines being rigged. We stopped at an icecream
parlour on the way and had an enormous icecream sundae
each and icy cold cokes before getting a bus which got
us all the way home about 40 minutes later.

Indoors we were working out how to spend the evening.
Having decided to go to Brisas de Titicaca pena, we
were disappointed to discover there were no
reservations available left for that evening, so
phoned La Candelaria at Barranco instead and were
luckily able to reserve a table. I am really looking
forward to it. The folkloric show starts at 10.45 and
continues until 3.15 tomorrow morning - a series of
andean bands and folkloric dances. I will write one
short email telling you all about it once I get home.

Despite the late night Erika and I plan to be up early
and on the beach again by 9 tomorrow morning. We will
be able to stay until 1 pm before heading homeward and
Erika having to be at work by 3 pm. Edgar is coming by
for me at 4.30 to take me to the airport and help me
through the chaotic procedures until it is time to
board my flight home. I leave Lima at 9.30 tomorrow
night, with the 14 hour flight via the Caribbean to
Amsterdam.It will probably be quite exhausting and not
so much fun as it was on the way here with the
exciting prospect of landing in Peru!With the 6 hours
lost in time zones I won't get home until around 9.30
sunday night. Then it is back to reality and up early
for work on Monday morning!

Hopefully I will be able to write a short closing
email on Monday evening. As you can imagine, having
enjoyed myself so much here, I will be saving hard and
looking forward to my next trip to Peru in a year's
time. Between now and then I will write occasionally
about andean events back home whenever they occur.

So until soon, bye for now and best wishes from Angela

Hola una otra vez del Valle Sagrado

This will probably be my last email written on Peruvian soil. My final closing email about this adventure will follow once I am back home in England.My last few days in Cusco have been equally as enjoyable as before. On Monday as soon as I arrived in Plaza de Armas many of the children appeared and managed to convince me to buy another lot of finger puppets. When I said I now had more than they did and could sell them for 1 sole apiece in the Plaza they dissolved in fits of laughter! I met the mother of two of the children and her two year old daughter still carried in the traditional way on her back. I asked her to show me how to put the baby in the cloth and arrange it on her back and she happily obliged. It really is an excellent way to carry babies.

Later in the afternoon I went to visit Gorky and Lydia, this time accompanied by about 9 little shadows (all of whom managed to persuade me to buy an icecream, the word having spread about the gringa willing to buy lots of finger puppets and buy icecreams as well!). Later the children enjoyed rushing off to buy bread rolls which we all enjoyed feeding to the pigeons. Whilst doing so a really scruffy tramp walked by and grabbed as many pieces of the pigeon's bread as he could. This is really unusual in Cusco where everyone even the children earn a little something from the tourists. The children could scarcely believe it.

Having bought another couple of CDs as well, Gorky told me about a shop where really good andean music is available and offered to take me and he was right; the variety of CDs on offer was amazing. After skimming over the multitude I have in my collection already I whittled it down to 6 CDs and after listening to a song or two from each CD settled on 3 albums which are really brillient and so obscure as to be unobtainablefrom Europe.

In the evening five of us went to a picanteria, which is a typical restaurant where even the poorest Peruvian can afford to go. As well as Gorky and Lydia, their friend Rudolf (the one who recognised me in Chincheros market) and his wife came along. Picanteria Chincana was situated quite high up in the town in the direction of Tica Tica and it is doubtful that any tourist would ever find it as it was accessed via a doorway and through a huge courtyard. We had a lovely time there. At first I was dismayed that every single thing on the menu contained beef, apart from a soup made of chicken's feet or another soup made of sheep's head - both of which I declined even more avidly than the thought of beef!!!! But they managed to produce some chicken from somewhere and although the others were drinking chicha, the two women the strawberry version of chicha called 'frutillada', the guy went out and came back with a litre of Cusquena beer for me. At the end of the evening the five meals, 4 pints of chicha, the litre of premium beer and 2 pints of frutillada came to well under 6 quid - amazing eh!

On Tuesday I made my way into Cusco centre again. I wanted to visit the ancient instrument museum I visited last August and Gorky accompanied me, walking past the stone of 12 sides and the magnificently dressed Inca nearby who poses for photos for a tip. We were just trying to ascertain where the museum actually was when Juan's friend Alfredo arrived. He works in a museum in Lima and sometimes at this museum in Cusco so soon led us to it. Inside I was eager to see what music was on offer, knowing that here more than anywhere else one can find the really indigenous music from the countryside. After listening to a great number of CDs I finally settled on four really brilliant ones, and wrote a list of another 5 to obtain later. We then returned to the shop and then Gorky, Lydia and I went to one of my favourite restaurants on Plateros, called La Fogon, and enjoyed an excellent lunch for just 1.50 per head (complimentary buffet salad, lamb and veg soup, roast lamb with roast potatoes, a chicha morada dessert and a chicha morada drink, and even buying another jar of chicha morada to share the bill came to just 5 pounds. All enjoyed on the balcony in warm sunshine.

Afterwards we walked to nearby Plaza de Armas and rested for about an hour in the warm sunshine. Whilst there Gorky told me the very interesting story about how the pealing part of the bell in the cathedral disappeared about a hundred years before. In those days the sound of that bell could be heard more than 20 kilometres away, but today's version can only be heard a few blocks away. The richness of that peal dates back to when a Spanish noble married an Inca princess, and later betrayed her by being unfaithful with other women and when she found out, her sadness was somehow entrapped in the sound of the bell. Early evening I took a taxi home, having arranged to meet Gorky and Lydia at La Retama at 8.30 pm. Whilst home packing my suitcase ready for my flight early Thursday morning Alfredo and Neomy phoned and as they were both still tied up in Urubamba, agreed that I would make my way to Urubamba the next morning. Then I thoroughly enjoyed the performance in La Retama with Gorky and Lydia, the band playing along with several series of dancers. Gorky and Lydia really enjoyed it too but were amazed at the expensive prices in the restaurant. Luckily we were able to watch the show without being pressed to buy drinks.

Afterwards Juan had about ten minutes to chat with us before rushing off in a taxi to get the 10 pm bus to Puno.The poor thing has spent all week going back and forth, 8 hours direction each way, so none of us have hardly seen him! Gorky, Lydia and I then went to Fernando´s bar for the last time and spent a pleasant hour and a half there. Fernando gave me his address yet again, and I hope this time it will be third time lucky, as both times previously I managed to lose it before ever getting around to writing a letter or postcard!Then we went to Kame Kasi, again for the last time, and thoroughly enjoyed Arco Iris's performance and a little chat with Jesus afterwards but not for long as they all had to be up early to travel to Sicuarani the next morning. The best surprise that evening was that within moments of sitting down at a table near the stage, my favourite song ´Let there be love´by SimpleMinds was playing and I knew it was because the DJ from last August recognised me and when I looked over he was waving and I got up and thanked him profusely for the song (but more for remembering me 6 months on). I actually brought a brilliant photo of him with all his CDs taken last August but both visits to Kami Kasi forgot to take it. Last night after getting home I tried to find it in my packed case but without success so it looks like it will have to be posted from England later. At least I know the address of Kami Kase now.

Today I was up early at 6.15 and by 7.30 in a taxi on my way to the terminal for buses to Urubamba. I wanted to travel by colectivo but unfortunately they did not leave from the same place, but luckily the taxi driver saw me making enquiries to no avail before pulling away, beeped his horn and drove me to the spot a few hundred yards away from where the colectivos departed. There was one with room for just one passenger but despite all the shifting to make room I could see there was no way the door would close with me in there as well and said I would wait for the next one. This did not take long; I was first in the next one and within 5 minutes or so we were on our way.

When I arrived at the house in Urubamba and walked into the kitchen, both Alfredo and Neomy were surprised to see me arrive so early (well before 9 am). The day here has been an excellent one. We went to the market as our quest was to find 10 CDs for Carlos, their son in Switzerland and half a dozen for Aquiles in London. The market was one of the biggest of the week and I thoroughly enjoyed our time there. Knowing the tastes of Carlos and Aquiles I was able to make suggestions for both and we all listened to parts of loads of CDs and ended up with about 18 or 19 for them and I found another two CDs for myself and 3 DVDs, one of them Alborada's live concert in Lima last summer which was so brilliant that in no time a huge crowd surrounded that CD stall, everyone exclaiming how brilliant they were. That band appeals to everyone, both young and old. The cost of these CDs is incredibly cheap - just 60p each, even the DVDs.

We also bought chicha morada in sachet form, aji amarillos and other items and at one point I had fun cuddling some 2 week old baby chickens. Then it was time for lunch and we went to Alfredo's nephew's restaurant again. Alfredo and I walked on ahead and Neomy arrived shortly afterwards with an excellent bottle of Argentinian red wine (La Chimaza) and we ended up staying a couple of hours, finishing the wine and sharing a litre of Cusquena as well and having a good laugh as usual.

Sadly this is my last day in Cusco and a little later this afternoon they are both coming back with me to Cusco in order to see me off at the airport tomorrow morning. It has been one of the warmest and sunniest days since I arrived here in Urubamba today, which is amazing considering the rainy weather I left behind in Cusco early this morning. All of us will be going to La Retama this evening at 8.30 in order to see Juan's band and the show for the last time, it being my last time to see Gorky and Lydia as well. In the morning we will meet Juan at the airport who has booked a flight on the same plane as me, albeit with a diffent seat.But although not sitting together on the flight at least I don't have to worry about arriving in Lima alone because I still don't know if Erika or Edgar have read their messages and know that I am arriving tomorrow. I will be staying with Erika's Mum (Elva'ssister Renee) as usual and Juan is staying with some friends of Alfredo's. I am hoping to find the pena inBarranco tomorrow night where the group El Polen play, Juan, Erika and her fiance Edgar accompanying me. The weather in Lima has been in the high 30s so hoping it is still as good on Friday, the plan is a whole day on the beach. Peruvian beaches are amazing and I hope to capture the scene in a dozen or so photos. Unfortunately in 2003 before I got back to Lima, my camera broke, meaning I had no photos of my one and only visit to Northern Peru - the city of Trujillo and nearby ancient Chan Chan as well. My next email will follow once I am back home as I cannot imagine there will be time in those 2 days in Lima for internet cafe visits. I hope the account of my travels has made interesting reading. As you can imagine, once home, I will be saving hard for the next trip!

Hi again

The past couple of days have been quite hectic and Ididn´t get a chance to see my messages so apologies to those who have written - I hope to reply personallysoon.

I thoroughly enjoyed my stay in Urubamba with Neomy and Alfredo. We ended up staying two nights and in fact they stayed on longer as the wall reconstruction is taking alot longer than envisaged.On the first day we went for lunch at a cafe owned by Alfredo's nephew where the food was excellent and incredibly cheap - only 50 pence per person for a delicious soup followed by a main course and the price even included a soft drink. Alot of tourists come toUrubamba and many of the restaurants are quite expensive but these inexpensive eating places exist as well. If the menu is written in English one should avoid those places as they cost anything up to ten times the price.

In the afternoon Neomy accompanied me to Ollantaytambo and we had a lovely time, first a tricycle journey to the terminal and then a bus to Ollantaytambo. With two of us in the tricycle the little moped engine was working to the limit and had all our sympathy! We visited the artesania shops in Ollantaytambo and I bought a lovely woven tapestry for a really good price. I succumbed to the temptation because the weaver recognised me from a previous visit when I said I would buy something next time!

We declined on visiting the ruins though which involved a hefty climb but we managed to feature some of them in our photos.Finally we tried to find that little shop with patio where we enjoyed a beer last August but failed to find it. On the way we passed a cafe selling exotic drinks from the jungle but when we went in and were offered an afrodisiac drink we both politely declined!!!

We ended up in the inner courtyard of another shop and ordered a beer but when it came it wasn´t Cusquena so Neomy offered to drink that one and we ordered a Cusquena as well and spent a very pleasant hour enjoying the beer and the warm sunshine. The courtyard was full of flowering plants, including some unusual varieties of geraniums in red and black and not once or twice but three times these flowers were visited bya humming bird which looked so beautiful hovering and sipping the pollen with its bright irridescent green body and whirring wings. On the third attempt after frightening it away twice I managed to capture it in a photo but whether it is detectable among the greenery of the plants remains to be seen.

Back at Urubamba later the three of us went out fordinner and then had an early night. Life in Urubamba is very tranquil and it is completely safe to stroll about at night there. On Friday we visited the market which was a bit bigger than usual but not as big as it is on Mondays. I managed to find a couple of CDs which are incredibly cheap at these markets. I really enjoy exploring markets here and seeing the wares on offer. I ended up buying some dried aji amarillo chillis to bring home and a variety of spices. Then it was time for lunch and we went back to Alfredo´s nephew´s restaurant again and in the afternoon visited their other properties scattered throughout Urubamba. In one of them lives a lovely ginger cat called Miminita (even though it is a male!) He was delighted to see us and just loved being stroked. He came onto my lap and I enjoyed cuddling him for quite a while before we moved on, promising to come back with food for him later.Then we visited the cemetery on the edge of town to pay our respects to Nayru, Alfredo's twin daughter who died over 20 years ago, soon after her birth. The cemetery was the most incredibly peaceful place with the sound of running water nearby, a variety of birds singing, and the biggest concentration and variety of flowers I have yet seen in Peru - an incredibly beautiful place of rest.

Later in the afternoon Neomy and Alfredo put me into a bus for Cusco as I wanted to get back as not knowing I would be staying longer than one night I hadn't brought the things I would need.We negotiated a good price for me to travel in a colectivo (shared taxi) but after 15 minutes waiting for 4 more passengers to appear we gave up and I got the bus instead. An hour and a half later we were in Cusco where I got a taxi home and arrived there before nightfall. Then before it got dark I went out for a takeaway meal and spent a quiet evening at home listening to my new CDs.

Next day I went to Plaza de Armas with the intention of visiting Lydia and Gorky again. It was the hottest day so far (and there was me dressed in winter clothes!) and so pleasant relaxing in Plaza de Armas that I ended up spending the whole afternoon there after first enjoying a good lunch in one of therestaurants. Even just off the Plaza a really bargain lunch is available, especially if one opts for the menu del dia which offers a soup or starter, followed by a main course, often a dessert as well and a drink. I enjoyed mine sitting on a balcony and for just 2 pounds they even threw in a pisco sour as well.

During the afternoon various children came selling their finger puppets and I ended up buying a load more, plus a few bargain original CDs and a mother o pearl silver pendant with condor, alpaca and serpent inlaid with other semi precious stones. The children stayed to chat and ended up staying with me all afternoon. The youngest aged 4 really seemed taken with me and wanted to sit next to me - the other four were aged 6, 9, 10 and 11 and really cute and all of them loved to chat.When a couple of young boys approached they warned me to hang on tightly to my bag and other things as they were well known pick pockets. After a while I fancied an icecream and ended up buying 6, one for each of the children and when I later went to visit Lydia all fiveof them accompanied me, the two youngest holding my hands and Lydia was highly amused when the crowd of us arrived. Around 5 pm I wanted to get back so one of them called me a taxi and then all five wanted to give me a kiss before I said goodbye, having first arranged to meet them again on Monday at 12 noon. This time I will take my camera and take some photos of them.I was back in the centre again at 6.30 with time for another menu del dia, this time only 7 soles which is about one pound fifty, before heading for Chez Maggy Pizzeria where the band were due to play at 7.30.Saturday being busier than normal they played for about an hour and a half until 9 pm and I enjoyed a Cusquena whilst watching. Meanwhile Alfredo, Juan´s friend phoned and we invited him to join us and the three of us went to Fernando's bar for about an hour and it was lovely to see him and his wife again, who were also pleased to see me having heard I was in Cusco again.

Then by 10 pm we were in Kami Kase and just as well we arrived early as we got to share the only remaining table, right down the front by the stage. Two twin guys were sharing the table, having just been reunited after 15 years, one of them having lived in Miami all that time and was home for 2 months holiday, and we had alot of fun chatting to them both. The music in Kami Kase is pretty good, the DJ putting on a good selection of rock music, U2 etc, so waiting for Arco Iris to perform on stage wasn´t a problem. There was a promotion on drinks as well, three Cuba Libres for 12 soles which is about two pounds fifty and we enjoyed a few of these as the evening progressed.

Finally at ten past eleven Arco Iris made an appearance and I was delighted when the charango player from Puno - Jesus - recognised me and came straight over and gave me a hug. The concert which followed was amazing and lasted for almost two hours and I was in heaven - especially later when they played my favourite song - Milagro de Amor - and Juan and Alfredo got up and danced with me for the duration of the song.At the end, Jesus came over and joined us and stayed with us for the rest of the night - him being from Puno the same as Juan and Alfredo, so they knew each other quite well. Jesus has started to learn English and I am going to help him by email. He has played with the Huj Mayas in the past and is going to really try to get to Puno next year and perform with the Huj Mayas in the fiesta. By the time I got home it was 5 in the morning and we were among the last few stragglers to leave the club!I was just dying to fall into bed and sleep as I had to be up again at 6 and it felt as though I dived into bed on one side and dived out again on the other with so little sleep.

Neomy had come home from Urubamba to accompany me to Chincheros today as our plan was to go the mass in the little church there, where all the country people from far and wide go to worship and the whole mass is recited in quechua (the ancient Inca language, still spoken in villages here). From the house we took a taxi to Avenida Grau, tried to negotiate a place in a colectivo but ended up going by bus instead. After half an hour by bus we got off and then took a colectivo some distance and then another bus before finally reaching Chincheros about 8 am with a long hike uphill going as fast as we could so as not to miss the mass, only to finally arrive and find it would not take place until 11 o clock. We descended the steep streets to the market place which was alive with vendors and whilst there I was recognised by one of the children who was with me the day before and also by another vendor who is a friend of Gorky and Lydia. The weather wasn´t too good and the drizzly rain got more persistent so we decided against hanging around more than two hours waiting for the mass so took another colectivo and bus journey until we got toanother delightful village called Huaracondo which is famous for its roast pork on Sundays, the whole market area full of people with whole roast suckling pig sstill warm from the oven where people could go for breakfast and lunch. (Breakfast in Peru is often as substantial as a good lunch). The pork (lechon) was really delicious which we enjoyed with bread and tamales, followed by coffee, and we also bought a portion to take back for Alfredo. Leaving there we took another colectivo to the main road and thence a long bus journey to Urubamba. Unfortunately the bus was full to bursting and we had to stand a good deal of the way. Finally more than an hour later we arrived in Urubamba once again, around 1 pm. By that time it felt as though we had been driving all over the andean countryside, but I would not have missed seeing these places for worlds, and experiencing the real Peru.

Whilst in Huaracondo we managed to catch the last half hour of the mass there, but it wasn´t in quechua apart from all the women singing in quechua at intervals during the service.Arriving at the house in Urubamba I went to sleep for a couple of hours as it was pouring with rain by this time and none of us fancied going to Yanahuara in those conditions but fortunately at 3 pm it dried upand the sun made an appearance, so the three of us set off for Yanahuara, having persuaded a taxi to take the3 of us for just 5 soles.We then proceeded to thoroughly enjoy the afternoon, it being the 16th festival of peaches, an annual event, taking place in a large field, with country folk coming from far and wide. Inside it was like a huge garden fete, a bandstand set up at one corner with a variety of groups performing throughout the afternoon, cooking fires all over the place with a huge variety of food on offer. We eventually opted for trout fried over an open fire, really huge fish caught in the nearby river that morning, and somehow tasted even more delicious being eaten in the open air. Later we caught up with some friends who I met in Urubamba 3 years ago, and we shared a few Cusquena beers. We stayed until 6 pm and then I managed to negotiate another taxi to take us back to Urubamba for 5 soles,and then Neomy and Alfredo put me into a colectivo for Cusco which again only cost 5 soles. As you canimagine money goes a long way here at those prices.When the colectivo arrived in Cusco I was a bit nervous getting out as the terminal yard was closed up, but the driver said not to worry, that he would call a taxi for me and that driver proved so friendly and chatty that I was home in no time. It is amazing how curious Peruvians are about life in England and Europe.

Hello from the Sacred Valley

I've taken the opportunity to write another email as
it is early morning and I am still waiting for the sun
to come out. The climate here in the Sacred Valley is
usually much warmer than in Cusco, almost tropical,
but maybe not today as it is cloudy and looks like it
could rain any minute. I am waiting for it to improve
before setting off on my own to visit Ollantaytambo.
Alfredo and Neomy are busy supervising the
construction of a wall on the perimeter of their house
here in Urubamba, but hope to be finished later in the
day so that the three of us can visit Pisac together,
which is about an hour by bus from here.

When I left the internet cafe on Monday, I expected to just pop by and see Gorky for half an hour and then head homeward, which
just shows you never know what to expect here. When I
walked into the salon where Lydia and Gorky have their
shop, sharing the salon with six other vendors, he was
there and really pleased to see me two years on after we
had met, having tried several times to get my email
address from various musicians. As it happened they
were just awaiting my arrival before performing a
little ceremony. Here in Peru, 14th February isn't
just ´'dia de amor' but 'dia de amistad' as well
(Friendship Day).

Gorky produced a bottle of sparkling
wine and the others rustled up enough glasses and we
stood outside the salon entrance and I had to go first
and throw some of the wine into the left door sill and
then more to the right door sill and then throw the
rest of the wine into the room. One by one the others
followed suit and one of the vendors poured confetti
over all of us, and Gorky filled up the wine glasses
again and we drank a toast. Then stools were produced
and we all sat together and Gorky served up portions
of roast chicken and potatoes for everyone. I wasn't
really hungry having had lunch with Lydia earlier in
the day, but there was no way I could decline this
lovely offering of friendship from these indigenous
and lovely people. In order to contribute to the
festivities I paid for several litres of my favourite
beer, Cusquena and coke for the children and we spent
the remainder of the afternoon thoroughly enjoying
ourselves and having a laugh. Later in the afternoon I
had a lovely surprise when Catalina entered the salon
and I recognised her flowing blonde hair and went over
to her and she was as pleased as I was to meet up
again and told me that she had spoken on the phone
with her fiance Victor who was also pleased that we
had found each other. She was accompanied by Victor's
Mum and his son and it was nice to meet them too. I
could not get over how much the lad resembled Victor, the likeness was unbelievable. Later when the temperature dropped Gorky lent me a poncho from his shop to go home in and Lydia walked with me
to Plaza des Armas and put me in a taxi for home,
after having agreed that I would pop by again the next
day.

That evening I only went out briefly. Juan had phoned
to say the group would be playing at La Retama at 8.30
and I said I would be along to watch. Luckily, yet
again the restaurant people did not mind me just being
a spectator and not partaking of the meal or buffet
(as I usually eat with Neomy and Alfredo somewhere
locally before going out). I really enjoyed the show
which lasted over an hour. The band were backing group
to a series of dancers in beuatiful costumes and the
whole show really enjoyable. I will probably see it
again at some point before leaving Cusco next
Thursday. Afterwards the band were booked to play at some event
outside Cusco and I did not fancy leaving the centre,
so said my goodnights to them and Juan said he would
come out to Marcavalle next morning around 11.30.

The next morning Neomy, Alfredo and I were up early
and after breakfast went to the artesania centre at
Wanchaq, a place I always visit for souvenirs when in
Cusco. Unfortunately we were way too early and more
than half the shops were still closed. I was
especially interested to see the jewellry shop where I
bought beautiful silver items on two previous visits,
but as always I could not remember the number of the shop; I
thought it might be No. 276 but when eventually it was
opened up, it turned out to be a different jeweller
altogether. I plan to go back next Wednesday and will
go late morning next time when all the shops will be
open. (In the afternoons they close from 12 noon or 1
pm until 4 or 5 for lunch and siesta, so late morning
really is the best time to visit.)

After visiting Wanchaq centre we still had time so
walked to another series of market stalls in the
Centro de Fraternidad. As always I was on a quest for
more CDs but it has reached a point now where it is
hard for me to find anything new in the genres that
interest me most. But I did succeed in buying three
DVDs - two are films and the other a documentary about
Cusco and Machu Picchu. One film is about the downfall
of Tupac Amaru and the other is called 'Pizarro y Los
Incas' and I am hoping this is the one in which Juan,
Angel, Milton and others feature as actors.

We were still in the market when Juan phoned, having
arrived at Marcavalle earlier than he had said he would -
something highly unusual for Peruvians who are usually
late. So we took a taxi back for quickness and he
waited with Neomy and Alfredo while I nipped upstairs
to change and grab Gorky's poncho, and then we headed
into town. We went straight to see Gorky and Lydia and
then the four of us went out for the rest of the day.
I wanted to see if Fernando's bar was open but
unfortunately it wasn't but neighbours said he might
call in soon, so we went to an upstairs bar and
restaurant and ended up staying several hours, sharing
a few beers and playing pool.

There was an 8 foot pool table in the next room and the way they play it here, 2, 3 or 4 people can play. Instead of keeping to one
colour and then potting the black, in Peru you
can pot any ball and once potted, you remove it from
the pocket and place it on a score board. If you pot
the white or miss the ball you have to remove one of
your balls and put it back on the table. The winner is
the one with the most balls at the end. I was pleased
that I played quite well, in one game having 10 of the
15 balls in my part of the score board. Playing pool
here is alot cheaper too - it costs about 85p to use
the table for an hour and one can manage 3 games in
that time.

Later in the afternoon I said my goodbyes and Juan
said he would phone later to confirm if the band were
playing at Le Retama or not. By this time it was very
much cooler so that by the time I got home I was
really feeling cold. Neomy and Alfredo were still out
so I decided to climb into bed and read whilst
listening to a CD for a while to warm up, but I must
have been feeling under the weather or something
because I simply could not get warm. What with
shivering and an upset stomach I really thought I was
going down with something. Later when Neomy and
Alfredo came back they produced loads of extra
blankets and made me hot tisanes of aniseed to settle
my stomach and eventually I felt a little better, but
no way well enough to go out again. When Juan phoned I
had to decline on going out and he understood and we
agreed to meet next day in the plaza at 12 noon.
Alfredo went out and brought back takeaway roast
chicken but I was unable to eat mine (anyone who knows
me well will know that is practically unheard of!!!).

I fully expected to be stuck in bed at least for a
couple of days but after a good night's sleep I woke
up next morning as good as new! Neomy and Alfredo went
out but I decided to stay at home and have a long hot
shower, sort out things to take to Urubamba later in
the day and generally relax until about 11 am. It was
another hot sunny day when I finally left and I found
my way easily by bus into the centre. The buses have names
rather than numbers and the one I take is called Expreso El Zorro which means the Fox Express!!

I arrived early in Plaza des Armas and decided to do a
tour and look in all the shops. I was really glad I
did so because finally finally after 4 years of trying
to find one, I found a beautiful calender with Andean
photos for each month of the year. Then walking
outside the shop a street seller was selling CDs and I
chose two originals by new bands that later proved to
be as brilliant as I had hoped. Later relaxing in the
sunshine on a bench opposite La Retama, various people
came to chat. Many of the children selling things come over just to chat, at the same time hoping to sell their finger puppets or postcards. If you buy anything from one, suddenly there are 5 or 6 others trying to sell you something similar. I ended up
buying about 6 postcards and 7 or 8 finger puppets to
add to my collection. I just love chatting to these
children, who are so pleased to find a gringa who can
speak their language, and I simply cannot resist buying
at least something from each of them.

Then Juan arrived along with other musicians and he
asked where I wanted to go and I said how about a few
more games of pool. Four of us headed for the same
restaurant bar, three of us to play pool but one was girlfriend to one of the musicians and she was happy just to watch. I didn't fancy anything alcoholic and neither did Juan who had had a tooth filled the previous day, so we ordered a jug of chicha morada (a soft drink made from purple maize which is like a
punch with chopped fruit added). After a few fun
games, Juan's friend Alfredo arrived and we ended up
playing for two and a half hours altogether. It was
just as well we were indoors because the sunshine
turned to the most horrendous rainfall with thunder
and one would have been drenched in seconds in such a
downpour if outside. At 3.30 I had to go and Juan put
me into a taxi, as I had agreed to meet Neomy and
Alfredo at the bus terminal where the buses leave for
the Sacred Valley. We were to meet each other at 4,
but we all arrived early and by ten to four the bus
was on its way. Over here the buses wait until full of
people and then set off, rather than keeping to a time
table. As always I enjoyed the hour and a half bus
ride to Urubamba, because the andean countryside is so
beautiful. Soon enough we were descending to the
valley floor around a series of curves and it all
looked so beautiful, the town nestled beneath the
majestic mountains that appear to be so close you can
almost reach out and touch them. Unfortunately it was
too late in the day to take photos - I took a couple
but each time the flash came into play which probably
means the mountains won't be evident.

On arrival we walked to the house and left our things
and then went out to enjoy the remainder of daylight,
with me smothering myself in mosquito repellant,
remembering how I was a mosquito feast on the train
back from Machu Picchu last August. We had a light tea
in a nearby cafe later on and when I asked Alfredo if
he felt like playing pool he said yes and we walked to
a place higher up in the town which had 3 different
tables and other smaller games for the townspeople to
enjoy. We had one game and were teaching Neomy how to
play at the same time. Afterwards we watched 3 men
play on the next table which was about 10 foot in size
and where they played with just 3 balls, two white and
one red. There are no pockets. The aim is to hit the
red ball with one of the whites and for the returning
ball to hit the other white - something which must be
remarkably difficult to achieve. Whilst in that games
hall there was a torrential downpour. It's the rainy
season here at the moment with more rain never too far
away. Afterwards I spent an hour in an internet cafe near the
house until Alfredo came back for me and then it was
an early night and up again early this morning.

Looking up for a brief moment the weather appears
sunny outside now, so I am going to suggest an early
lunch to Neomy and Alfredo and then head off to
Ollantaytambo for a couple of hours strolling around
there this afternoon. I love that little village so
much. Then hopefully later we will visit Pisac
together before heading back to Cusco. Earlier this
morning Alfredo and I looked around the market but
despite going through CDs at the 4 stalls I could find
nothing of interest. It is only a normal market day
today whereas 3 times a week vendors come from far and
wide; unfortunately not today.

Juan has gone back to Puno today to pick up his
passport which is being renewed and it being an 8 hour
bus ride each way won't be back until Saturday, so I
asked Alfredo his friend if he would mind accompanying
me to Kami Kase club tonight as Arco Iris are
performing and I am looking forward to seeing them
again. Amazing that I arrived last Sunday and it is
now Thursday and I still haven't made it to Kame Kasi
or Ukukus yet! Finding someone to take me is never a
problem as lots of musicians are eager to accompany
me, knowing that I will buy them a few beers! The
problem is trying to keep it down to just one or two.
Tomorrow I will visit Gorky and Lydia again and I am
sure if I invite them to join me in the evening they
will be pleased to accompany me. On Fridays and
Saturdays sometimes more famous bands play at these
venues and I will be eagerly checking out who is on in
order not to miss something really worth seeing. These
bands play about 11 pm and I am meeting Alfredo at 9,
so will finally catch up with Fernando and his wife at
their bar tonight.

Hello from Cusco

Ever since last Thursday it has been so
hectic that I didn't have a single moment for visiting
internet cafes - much to my regret because reading my
messages tonight was confirmation from a friend in
Lima about the venue of the Savia Andina concert which
is not just Savia Andina but Kala Marka as well, two
fantastic bands from Bolivia. When I couldn't find out
the venue earlier in the week I decided in the end to
give Lima a miss until just before I fly home, and
came earlier to Cusco instead. I travelled with Imexo,
a new bus company, who are brilliant. The bus actually
left on time at 8.30 and arrived 10 minutes early at
3.20 this afternoon - this is unheard of normally, as
most buses depart at least an hour later than
scheduled and often arrive up to two hours later! A
bit of a pain when there are people awaiting its
arrival.

Exiting the internet cafe last Thursday the sun was
shining so I was eager to get into town for various
reasons but when I mentioned this to Rita and Agustin
they would not hear of me going alone, even in a taxi.
Agustin said that even taking a taxi alone is
dangerous as there are now many taxi drivers in Puno
who have arrived from big cities like Lima and
Juliaca, who have given the whole taxi business a bad
name, people being abducted, robbed etc.

We had a pleasant morning in town, visiting the feria,
a huge area of market artesania stalls in a school
building and playground in one of the plazas. I bought
a few souvenirs and also we were looking for a dvd of
Candelaria 2005 featuring me dancing but only managed
to find one after watching three versions with a brief
sighting of me. Agustin said it as a mistake having me
right out the front behind the first banner holder
because we were so strewn out that the photographer
jumped from the previous event - the brilliant Bella
Vista diablada troupe, straight to the band and missed
me out altogether. Perhaps I wasn't dancing at that
moment, but all the same it was a disappointment not
to feature much in the dvd and video which has now
gone on sale nationally and shortly internationally as
well. Agustin said that next year they would put me
directly in front of the group, between them and the
main dancers.

After this we went for a delicious trout lunch in a
garden restaurant, very nice because the sun was
shining warmly. The climate in Puno is generally cold,
even now in summer time due to the altitude. Even when
the sun is shining there is a cold breeze at times and
when the sun goes down .... brrrr! I had to buy some
quite ugly looking knitted socks to keep my feet and
legs warm when going out at night - something I
wouldn't be seen dead in at home but very necessary in
Puno's cold climate.

After lunch Rita went home because they have a little
nursery in their home and Rita looks after children
and they had one arriving early that afternoon. But
Agustin stayed with me and suggested we went to visit
Abel, another Huj Maya, who works in the film
industry, to see if he could locate a better version
of Candelaria 2005 with more than just that brief
sighting of me. When we reached his house I realised
it was very close to Javi's home and said I would like
to pop in and say hello and pick up a few more
necessities from my suitcase being stored there, and
as Abel had to get ready we agreed that they would
both call for me at Javi's house as soon as Abel was
ready.

I then spent a very pleasant hour with Javi and his
family, and was especially glad I had called in and
thus seen his Mum one last time, because she had been
called back to work a day early and would be leaving
next morning and be away until Sunday - she works as a
nurse in a town quite far from Puno and is often away
for days at a time. Abel and Agustin arrived and his
Mum made refreshments and we spent a very pleasant
hour listening to music and I was delighted when Javi
presented me with another 8 CDs. When we left, Javi
and I agreed to meet at 10 am the next day, that being
the last time I would see him during my Puno visit as
he was off to Moho on Friday afternoon for the whole
weekend. He plays in a band there and the band were
part of a parade and fiesta taking part there on
saturday.

Behind Javi's house is an amazing view of Lake
Titicaca and the whole town, with a huge statue of
Inca Pachacutec and at Abel's suggestion we went to
take photos. I was delighted to see that Abel had come
armed with his digital camera and he took several with
various views over lake and town and afterwards we
walked on foot back down into town where yet more
parades were going on and we watched some of it before
going to have dinner where I chose one of Peru's most
famous soups, Caldo de Gallina, which arrived in the
largest bowl I have ever seen and even defeated me as
I could only manage half of it. Then back to the
parade and Abel took photos of me with various dancers
passing by in the parade, with diablada dancers, saya
dancers, morenada dancers etc. My favourite of all the
dances is the diablada where young men in amazing
costumes leap high into the air whilst dancing. How
those guys could keep it up every few minutes in
Monday's parade I will never know. They must be super
super fit. I am hoping that Abel will send those
photos to my email soon so that I can then send them
onward to you, some of them at any rate. We finally
ended up in a little bar and had two large pisco sours
each, a delicious cocktail made from Peruvian brandy
(Pisco) along with beaten egg white and limon juice (a
fruit which is like a cross between lemon and lime)
with cinnamon sprinkled over the top.

The following morning Agustin put me in a taxi for
Javi's house, first standing where the driver could
see him and writing the taxi number on his arm (as a
warning not to try any funny business) and I arrived
at Javi's house about 10 am and the first thing we did
was take my suitcase back to Agustin's house, so that
at the same time Agustin would know I had got there
safely. Then Agustin went off to his workshop and Javi
and I spent a couple of hours in town where I was able
to change more money, buy my bus ticket for Cusco at
one of the agencies there, and we had a light lunch of
Papa Relleno (meat and vegable stuffing inside mashed
potato, then lightly fried - another favourite dish of
mine. One by one I am enjoying all my favourite dishes
at either lunch or dinner!

Later Javi accompanied me back to Agustin's house
before we said our goodbyes until we meet again next
year, but we will be in touch regularly by email as
always, as Javi is constantly on the look out for CDs
for me, in Puno and also in Arequipa and La Paz where
he goes from time to time. Here in Peru he can find
some choice bargains for me. Also we are planning
another big trip, this time to Ecuador, probably in
2007, now that I have promised to come to Puno again
in February next year.

In the afternoon Rita and I unpicked the waistband of
my skirt and cut about 5 inches off the skirt length
before preparing the pleats and adding the waistband.
Once this was ready, Agustin carried in a really old
fashioned sewing machine complete with treadle and he
stitched the waistband back on. He also took in the
jacket about 3 inches each side for a much better fit.
He had hoped to borrow a car so that we could visit
Charcas that afternoon but was unable to track down
his friend to ask about borrowing the car. Because he
had set his heart on taking me there, and the
following day we had to be at the church around 12
noon along with other Huj Mayas and dancers, he said
we would hire a taxi to take us really early next
morning.

Agustin then accompanied me to visit the giant condor
high on the hillside with the best view over the whole
city. We had to follow a winding dusty track up the
mountainside to get to it, pretty nerve wracking
whenever we had to pass vehicles coming the other way
as we were on the outside and nothing to stop cars
rolling down off the edge if the driver miscalculated
when passing on such a narrow track. I felt quite
relieved when we reached the top. The views there were
stupendous and we took several photos, but before
getting out of that taxi we negotiated with the driver
to take us to Chacras at 4.30 next morning and he said
he would call to the house early evening to confirm
the price exactly. We then walked down about a million
steps to get back into town, stopping to rest here and
there, end enjoyed icecreams in a little shop with
patio on the way down as well. Once back in town we
went back home to fetch Rita who by that time would
have given the little girl back to her parents. I may
have told you in an earlier email that that little
girl was Rita and Agustin's but I got that wrong. Rita
looks after other people's children. When we got back
Rita was still absent but Agustin said she had
probably gone to visit her mother so we walked there,
about 15 minutes, and then had to walk down a very
long narrow passageway to get to the house. Once
inside it was evidently a very typical aymara home,
the house built of adobe bricks and decked inside with
woven rugs etc, a one room dwelling, lit by
candlelight rather than electricity. Her Mum was ill
in bed and was delighted to meet me and I too was
delighted to meet a really indigenous aymara lady.
Rita's sister prepared a mate de munya for us and we
enjoyed that whilst chatting to Rita's Mum, who knew
we were going to Chacras next day and would call in
and visit her husband on his little small holding on
the way.

After that we went to the central market and bought
some provisions for a picnic breakfast for the next
day, and then went to have a typical Peruvian roast
chicken dinner before going home to have an early
night. The way they do roast chicken here is
fantastic, the chickens cooking on spits inside an
enormous oven which is like a furnace inside, the
flames burning high. The end result is really
succulent chicken and these chicken brasa restaurants
are popular all over Peru like MacDonalds are back
home.

Next morning I was up first to have a shower and get
ready, knowing the taxi would arrive at 4.30.
Amazingly I woke up at 3.15 even without an alarm
clock and was all ready and dressed by the time Rita
came to call me! Agustin's Mum who was staying the
night also got up then and made us hot drinks and
helped me wash the fruit we were taking with us on the
picnic - juicy black plums as big as oranges,
nectarines as big as grapefruits. The fruits here are
lush!

When the taxi arrived bang on time I was sitting in it
chatting to the driver whilst awaiting Rita and
Agustin who were not quite ready and then we were on
our way. It was still dark and pouring with rain so
not the best conditions for driving into the
countryside. The road followed the lake all the way,
and at times it was like driving over a narrow
causeway as there was water on both sides, muddy water
being thrown onto the windscreen as we drove, the
wipers not making a good job of clearing it, so that
we had our hearts in our mouths at times when traffic
approached from the opposite direction, negotiating
that narrow road with the lake on one side and marshy
water on the other! I was relieved when it began to
get light just after 5.30 and I could see the passing
scenery. Finally at about 6 am we arrived at Rita's
Dad's little small holding deep in the countryside, in
the most heavenly and peaceful spot imaginable with a
view over the lagoon and distant mountains. The dog
came to greet us and once we had parked the taxi we
had a 5 minute walk to get to the house. There were
cows tethered by the house and I was glad that I only
noticed it afterwards that one of them was a bull!
Especially as we walked right by it!!! There were also
donkeys in a little coraal. Next minute Rita's younger
sister was sitting on a little stool milking one of
the cows, so that we'd have milk for our breakfast,
her Dad holding back the calf who had been feeding
just before that. I declined on the milk though as I
am always afraid to risk Crone's disease by drinking
unpasteurised milk. They prepared mate de munya for me
instead and later her Dad picked loads of munya from
the garden for me to take with me, once they learned
how much I love that herb (which is like an andean
mint but nothing like the mint we know, and infusions
of it are good for both stomach and headaches, and
alleviate altitude sickness as well. Then they
prepared a delicious soup with lamb and vegetables,
some completely unknown to me, but delicious all the
same and we enjoyed this along with the ham filled
giant croissants we had brought with us, and the
fruit. Afterwards Rita's Dad and sister had fun
dressing me up in the typical costume of that area and
taking photos. I was so taken with the unusual
headgear that Rita has promised to weave one
especially for me for when Icome back in Feb 2006. She
is also going to knit me a sweater with condor design.


Both Rita and Agustin are keen for me to be the maid
of honour at their wedding next year, having changed
the date so that I can be there. The wedding will take
place at her Dad's place and will be a typical andean
wedding, something I look forward to very much.
Agustin has even promised to build a bedroom so that I
have a place to sleep whilst we are there.

We stayed there a couple of hours in total, the taxi
driver really enjoying the experience as much as I
did, because countryside life is a world away from
town living. This side of Peru a tourist would never
normally experience, so I am really lucky to be able
to do so. We then drove onward to Chacras. It was
still drizzling with rain and the road was a muddy
track, throwing up muddy water all the time so we had
to keep the windows closed. Finally we reached our
destination, a lovely beach and we went walking there
and taking photos for half an hour but at the same
time looking out for the owner of one of the little
boats moored at the lake's edge. Finally we found one
who agreed to row us out to a little island. Climbing
in wasn't easy, and I climbed aboard first, nearly
tipping it up by sitting off centre! Finally we were
all aboard, Agustin and me sitting at the back and
Rita on the prow at the front, and the boy standing in
between and rowing us out. Amazingly even so close to
shore the waves were quite big and at times looked as
though they would land in the boat, and I couldn't
help laughing at the worried look on Agustin's face,
given that none of us can swim, and the wind and waves
appeared to be taking us closer to submerged rocks so
that even I was worried. But we safely got to the
island and went ashore there to take more photos.
Close to that island was another really small one
complete with little house and animals. The people
living there were the concierges guarding the hotel on
the rocks which was closed at that time, but we hope
to spend a couple of nights there after the wedding
next year as that area is so tranquil and beautiful. I
saw it on a rainy day and they said when the sun is
shining it is like paradise on earth.

Then it was time to head homeward although we stopped
once on the way to see a typical countryside market,
but had to negotiate through lots of mud to get into
it so that our shoes were awash with it. We could hear
a pig squealing and it was inside a sack and about to
be killed and probably knew it and I had to look away.
Then we drove back to Puno arriving back at the house
about 11.30 and then it was a mad rush for all of us
to get ready, involving a shower first to get rid of
all the mud. Then half an hour later we were all in
taxi's and on our way to meet the others at the
church. First we went to the place where the Huj
Maya's own statuette of the Virgin Candelaria is kept
(a replica of the Virgen Mary and Jesus on a pedestal
bedecked with white velvet cloak and scattered
flowers). This was then carried to the church through
the town with all of us behind it, first the dancers,
myself included, and then the Huj Mayas following up
behind playing their music. At the church we had to
wait as several other sikuri bands were also parading
their replicas of the Virgin Candelaria. Then we were
all in the church, a really beautiful church decorated
with millions of bunches of flowers, white flowers and
apricot gladioli, and the celebration mass then took
place. Afterwards was another parade around the centre
of town, with us dancing and playing and knowing it
was only for half an hour I was able to dance this
time without resting even for a moment, although I had
an awkward moment rounding one of the corners of a
square when my skirt came undone, only realising it
when I nearly tripped over the hem, but luckily for me
a woman in the crowd noticed and rushed forward to tie
up the waistband again!!!

After the parade we arrived at a huge community hall
where all of us along with friends and family spent
the rest of the day and evening, the Huj Mayas playing
from time to time and everyone else up dancing. Later
in the evening a meal was served to everyone and it
was a very enjoyable get together indeed until I found
I was unable to keep my eyes open a moment longer I
was so tired, and knowing I had to be up early next
day to get to the bus station. At 11 pm, Agustin's Mum
accompanied me back to the house, which was just as
well as I learned from her next morning that the
others didn't get home until after 5 am. Luckily I
woke up okay again without an alarm clock and was
ready to leave the house just after 7. Agustin's Mum
was accompanying me to the bus station as both Rita
and Agustin were sound asleep. I was sorry not to be
able to say goodbye but we will keep in touch this
time, by letter initially but they are going to get an
email address soon which is much easier.

I rang for a taxi and soon we were on our way to the
bus station. It was great being able to use my mobile
phone in Peru for the first time, having gone to Tim
Peru with Abel and Agustin on Thursday to see about
adding credit to my phone with Tim Peru (that being
the signal my phone had picked up on arrival in Peru).
Although it was impossible to add Tim credit to my O2
mobile, we got over the problem by me purchasing
another simm card for 65 soles, and then adding 20
soles credit which I can increment by 20 soles at a
time as I need it. And I can keep the simm card alive
whilst not in Peru by adding 20 soles credit via the
internet with a credit card, just once every six
months.

At the bus station we had time for coffee and then the
bus was leaving and on its way to Cusco, a 7 hour
journey which passed pleasantly as I slept off and on,
but thoroughly enjoying the andean countryside
whenever I was awake, being more aware and
appreciative of it having visited Charcas the previous
day. One region just before arriving at Sicuani was so
incredibly beautiful that living there must be like
living in paradise, the people having their homes and
little pastures full of crops, animals grazing nearby,
sometimes tended by little children, all in a lush
green valley between rolling hills of the Andes
mountains, some peaks snow tipped.

The closer we got to Cusco the warmer became the
climate so that I was really looking forward to
enjoying warm sunshine after the cold of Puno. The
best and warmest day in Puno was the day of the parade
last Monday when we could have done without it!!!!
The bus arrived slightly early and Juan was there to
meet me off the bus and help me with my luggage out to
Marcavalle where I always stay with Neomy and Alfredo
when in Cusco. On arrival Juan carried my things
upstairs to my room and then the four of us went to a
shop opposite and enjoyed coca colas on the patio
enjoying the sunshine, until Juan had to go off, but
we agreed to meet again by me going to the restaurant
where he would be playing that evening at 7 pm.

After a quick change, Alfredo, Neomy and I went into
town for a while and we had dinner together before I
said my goodbyes until the morning, not being sure
what time I would get back, but having been given keys
to both gate and front door, so that I could get in if
late.

Juan and Lucio arrived first, and we shared a large
bottle of Cusquena before the other three band members
arrived and then played for an hour for the diners in
the restaurant, the owners not minding me just sitting
there enjoying a beer. Afterwards we headed for
Fernando's bar, another dear friend I was looking
forward to seeing, but unfortunately being Sunday the
bar was closed and I didn't fancy going anywhere else
as I was still feeling tired from the previous day, so
we agreed to meet up again tonight instead, as another
two hours would pass before live music would be
available in the folkloric clubs Ukukus or Kami Kasi
and I didn't fancy just drinking for the sake of it
until then.

Today I woke up to a glorious sunny day so after
breakfast washed all the munya Rita's Dad had given me
and laid it all outside on paper in the sunshine to
dry out as I hope to bring alot of it back home to
England with me to enjoy mates from time to time
there. I just hope it doesn't rain during the day
today, it being the rainy season in all Peru, but
mostly it rains at night, although sometimes in the
day as well. Neomy was up at 6 and on her way to
Urubamba but Alfredo and I set off to a nearby market
to get some more keys cut as there wasn't enough of
all of them to go round between three of us. We set
off walking but after a while I was groaning and
asking how much further, so we caught the bus the rest
of the way. It only costs 20p to get a key cut here,
far less than back home. From there we got another bus
all the way to the centre and Alfredo stayed with me
until it was time to go and meet Neomy from the bus on
her return from Urubamba and I came into the centre on
my own to have a look around.

One of the most amazing things to happen last night
was whilst walking in Plaza des Armas with Juan and
the other musicians I met up with a friend from London
who was passing in a taxi, stopped it and ran across
to greet me, and I don't know who was most amazed, me
or her, for us to meet up so far from home like that!
She is leaving Cusco on Tuesday so we are hoping to
find each other tonight, and I will be looking out for
her at the same time, as with luck two other musicians
from London, Edgar and Santiago, might be playing at
Kami Kasi tonight and we can go there together. Her
boyfriend Victor used to play music with Edgar and
Santiago in Portabello market 2 to 3 years ago.

After a stroll around Plaza des Armas today I decided
to go and see another dear friend met in 2001. I tried
to find her last August but without success - I found
the new location of her shop but she was absent at
that time. Before that having befriended a couple of
children in the Plaza and buying some of their wares,
they accompanied me to Lydia's shop before saying
goodbye. When I walked in, Lydia was there and really
delighted to see me. We chatted for about half an hour
until noon and then leaving other stall holders to
guard her shop, we went to a nearby cafe and I treated
her to lunch. Then I wound up here but promising to go
back at 4 pm, as hopefully her husband Gorky will be
back by then and I can see him too. On the way to this
internet cafe I saw those little girls again and
described Catalina and said that if they could find
her for me I would give them 5 soles. They knew
immediately who I meant when I described her as long
flowing blonde curly hair really stands out here. If
they don't find her by the time I leave her, I can
almost bet on it that they will find her tonight for
me.

Hi again from Puno

It´s pouring with rain here so going into town has
been deferred until later and I decided to visit this
nearby internet cafe for a while whilst waiting for it
to clear uup.

As always when writing that first message yesterday I
missed out a few details. On the first day after I got
back to the hotel, I was just getting into bed when
the guy from Reception knocked on my door to say that
a friend wanted to see me.I quickly threw on some
clothes and found it was Jose who wanted to make sure
all was well and to confirm he would come and collect
me in the morning at 9.30. We then went out for a
while to see if we could find other Huj Mayas and
eventually found about a dozen of them, the rest
having scattered in all directions by this time. We
stayed awhile chatting and it was so lovely the
welcome I got from those guys, even the ones not met
previously but who knew I was coming from England. I
was warmly welcomed to Puno by every single one. Just
prior to finding them Jose bought me a bag of coca
leaves as sustenance for the following day and I
chewed a mouthful of those leaves there and then to
try and relieve some of the altitude effects, and they
really do help but the taste is bloody awful!!!

When Javi, Neomy, Alfredo and I went out for breakfast
next morning, Javi requested a mug of boiling water
for me and I dunked in a handful of leaves. Taken with
sugar as a drink it tastes wonderful, and after a
while I could feel the benefits as my headache
disappeared and my mind felt really clear after the
spaced out feelings up until then. After drinking the
tea I chewed the leaves and felt even better still. I
can see why coca leaves are such an integral part of
andean everyday life, living in these heights - Puno
being over 4000 meters above sea level.

During all my time here the festivities in Puno
haven´t let up even for a moment. At any moment of the
day or night one can hear the bands playing all over
town, people in costume wherever you look, the town
full to bursting with visitors, the bustle of vendors
selling everything you can think of, food stalls on
carts with things frying, taxis trying to get through
these narrow streets cluttered with carts, stalls etc,
blaring their horns impatiently, stray dogs winding
through the crowds, people out as families really
enjoying themselves. This is the delightful confusion
that is Peruvian life in general and impossible to
portray to those who haven't experienced South America
- it really is a different world entirely here - even
the wildest imagination could not express the
difference - and it is like a siren call for me,
calling me back again and again.

The day after dancing in the parade I was surprised
and delighted when people stopped me in the street to
say that they had seen me on television in the parade
and said bravo and wanted to know where I was from and
what I thought of their fiesta, Peru, Puno etc. A few
others came over and said they had seen me in the
parade as they were there watching it all go by, and
even Javi's friend from Arequipa said he had seen me
go by and had taken a photo. Probably Javi told him
his friend from England was coming to take part.
Hopefully I will get a copy of that photo later on as
we will be in contact by email after my return home to
exchange a few CDs.

I'm now installed in Rita and Agustin's house, one of
the Huj Mayas and one of the band's dancers, who made
me so welcome in their home when I was here in 2003. I
came to their house yesterday and will be with them
until Sunday morning when I get the fast 8 am direct
bus to Cusco. I decided against going to Lima this
saturday after all because despite all my efforts I
could not find out the venue of the Savia Andina
concert. Not only that when Juan told me yesterday
afternoon that the Huj Mayas are taking part in
another special event this Saturday, which will bring
the fiesta to an end, I did not want to miss this
final opportunity to see all the band together playing
at once. This after booking my bus ticket for
Saturday, so when the weather clears up later I will
be back to the agency in hopes of changing it to
Sunday. As it is only a reservation as yet with
nothing paid so far, there shouldn't be a problem.
Juan has gone to Cusco ahead of me as his band had the
chance to play in a big folkloric venue, but not
without leaving me in Agustin and Rita's kind hands. I
am really lucky to have such a good friend here as
Juan who always leaves me with someone genuine to look
after me whenever he cannot accompany me places
himself. It was Agustin and Rita's heartfelt
invitation when Javi and I came the afternoon before
last that made me come here though. This lovely couple
are planning their wedding and were thinking of
getting wed in September but have changed it to
February 2006 as they want me here as their matron of
honour, so it looks like I will be coming back next
year with two reasons - dancing with the band again -
and Rita and Agustin's wedding. Here couples often
live together for a few years before tying the knot.
Rita comes from another part of Peru, a couple of
hours from here, where the weather is warmer and drier
and there is a beach too. They decided over breakfast
this morning that the wedding ceremony would probably
take place there.

As you can see Juan and I did not go to Amantani after
all due to the heavy rains and the added dangers being
out on the lake especially out beyond Uros and
Taquile. Juan offered to take me to Uros instead and
since then Agustin's Mum offered to take me to Taquile
tomorrow but I said I had already been to both places
last August, just leaving Amantani and Sillustani left
to visit. Of course oneday I also want to visit the
islands of the sun and moon (Isla del sol and Isla de
la Luna), but these are best visited from the Bolivian
side of Lake Titicaca. On Friday I am going to visit
Javi's Mum again which rules out any island visiting.
I didn't mind not going too much because even last
August when the weather was hot on the outward boat
trip, coming back was a bit of a nightmare later on
due to the extreme fall in temperatures when the sun
goes down. It would be even colder now. When the sun
is shining in the day time it is lovely here but due
to the altitude the temperatures drop dramatically at
night and you have to dress up as if in the depths of
winter.

I had a lovely evening last night with Rita, Agustin,
his Mum, his Mum´s sister. We took a taxi to a
different part of town and paid for use of a bench and
parked ourselves on the roadside, behind one row of
people, and were just in time for the start of yet
another parade which was amazing, being so close up
and watching in detail after my own participation. The
costumes of the dancers were amazing, troops of 50 or
more dressed the same, both men and women, all dancing
in formation with never a falter (something I fell
down on frequently on monday). Behind each set of
dancers were a brass band of at least 50 musicians,
all in rows of trumpets, trombones, sax and flutes,
with the french horn players coming up the rear, all
dressed in matching suits. Each set of dancers
portrayed a different dance of which there are many in
this part of Peru, including some great dances from
Bolivia - the saya, morenada, diablada, tinku etc. The
costumes are amazing with head dresses two or three
feet tall. We had snacks throughout the evening,
Peruvian popcorn, barbequed kebabs with roast potatoes
etc - the choice is amazing as street sellers wend
through the dancers and just everything possible is
available, including guys with 10 foot poles covered
in bags of candy floss in shades of white pink and
pale green, hot food such as tamales and saltenas, ice
creams, biscuits, others going by with a huge cake on
a plate and selling it by the slice - plus all the
inevitable carts with things cooking in every
available space. The kids are armed with cans of spray
foam and take great delight in squirting it at some of
those dancing by, as well as foam fights among
themselves and woe betide anyone who gets in the way!
I was a target of this myself at times last Monday. We
stayed until about 9.30 and then went to find a place
to have dinner which was also very enjoyable. From
there we walked to another place where the Huj Mayas
have their own Virgen Mary taking pride of place in a
lovely oblong room filled with antique carved
furniture and oil paintings over 100 years sold. We
lit candles to the Virgin Mary and the caretaker of
that room produced a tray of glasses of some
strawberry vodka drink and we chatted for an hour or
so, before finally getting a taxi home and by this
time I was more than ready for bed.

Festivities in Puno

Finally an opportunity to write and let you know I got
here safely and to tell you all about the wonderful
festivities here in Puno. As many of you know my sole
reason for coming back to Peru so soon after last
summer's adventure was to participate with the group
Armonia de Vientos Huj Maya in the Fiesta de la Virgen
de Candelaria, which is one of Peru's biggest fiestas
which takes place in Puno in February of each year.

My journey began early on Saturday morning, first with
a flight to Amsterdam and thence onward to Lima.
Descending the plane in Amsterdam it was noticeably
colder than the weather I had left behind in England.
After a slight bit of confusion at Schipol airport I
found my way to the correct transition area to get to
E terminal and my departure lounge for the Lima
flight. For anyone going this route the transition
area is T5. On the plane I was sitting next to a
Peruvian lady who was going home to Lima for a couple
of months holiday and we spent most of the trip
chatting. At first I could barely understand her
because people from Lima speak really fast but after a
while I found I was managing better and in fact it was
good practice for my arrival here. As always KLM
looked after their passengers beautifully all the way
to Peru and the long haul flight wasn't too much of an
ordeal. When we landed on the Carribean island of
Bonaire we had an hour's stopover so I got off the
plane this time. I could hardly believe the heat there
which was around 87 degrees fahrenheit. Apart from
wandering around the airport there wasn't much to do
there until reboarding the plane later and then just
when we were looking forward to an imminent take off,
the pilot announced that we had a mechanical problem
and that we were awaiting a mechanic to come and fix
it. Not a very comforting thought, mechanical
problems, with another 4 hours flying time over the
sea to get to Lima I can assure you! Whilst still in
the airport I could feel the mosquitos biting and it
was worse on the plane those 2 hours we were waiting
on the tarmac, as the air conditioning doesn't
function so well when the plane is on the ground.
Finally we took off however and the last four hours of
the flight were uneventful. The last five minutes was
the most exciting part, coming down to land and seeing
all the lights below, and knowing I would be on
Peruvian soil any minute - words cannot express how
excited and happy I felt in those moments.

On the ground was the usual queues to get through
passport control and this time I was unlucky enough to
be stopped by customs and have my luggage thoroughly
searched, but it was all done nicely and finally I was
outside scanning the vast crowds for a sight of Elva.
Normally Erika meets me whenever I fly into Lima but
on this occasion I was unable to get in touch with her
due to her absence from Lima and because of this my
very dear friend Elva decided to travel all the way
from Ilo (18 hours by bus) to meet me from the plane
and see me on my way the following morning. I was
overwhelmed at her kindness in doing this and
incredibly incredibly grateful. She would not even let
me refund her bus ticket costs later which even
further overwhelmed me. I could not see her at first -
the airport is being renovated and there was a vast
crowd inside and another vast crowd outside. I decided
to stay inside to begin with and switched on my mobile
in case she would ring me - delighted to see that the
phone immediately picked up Tim Peru and would
therefore be usable in Peru. After 10 minutes with
taxi drivers insisting on taking me onward, I
explained to one of them that someone was meeting me
and he asked her name and went outside calling her and
sure enough there she was, along with her nephew, and
soon we were in his car and on our way to Elva's
sister house where we would be spending the night. It
was fantastic to see Elva again and we hugged each
other to death on first sight of each other as you can
imagine!!! Back at the house we had lots to talk about
and enjoyed some icy cold drinks because the weather
was really warm and balmy even at night (it was
getting on for 10 pm when we met up and around 25
degrees centigrade then).

Next morning we were all up early and had time for a
light breakfast before Elva and her sister and nephew
escorted me back to the airport for my onward flight
to Lima. We allowed 2 hours for check in etc but it
was alot quicker than that on a national flight - on
international flights it is so chaotic at Lima airport
that 3 hours is barely enough to get through all the
procedures through to boarding any plane leaving the
country. I managed to change up some money and said
goodbye to them and then went through to departures to
await my flight.

An hour later we were in the air and on our way -
first destination Cusco which took about an hour and
we were given breakfast so the time flew past. Not
long after leaving Lima we were flying over the Andes
and landing at Cusco was great, especially knowing I
will be landing there again to stay in about 10 days
time, maybe sooner. Soon we were taking off again and
arrived in Juliaca about an hour later. Coming in to
land here we were flying over the Altiplano which is
quite desolate and bleak and thence into Juliaca
airport which is quite small. Whilst awaiting my
luggage on the carousel I could see Javi outside
waiting and there was an andean band of 6 musicians
playing beautifully which I thought was a delightful
welcome to Juliaca and I was one of the first to buy
their CD. This band are called Inkamaru and although I
did not notice or know it then, one of those musicians
was a friend met in Cusco in 2001 whom I had lost
touch with since he left Cusco for his hometown of
Juliaca. Amazing that the only person I knew in
Juliaca was there at the airport when I arrived
although I only discovered this later.

Outside it was great to see Javi again and luckily
there was a colectivo waiting with space for 3 more
passengers leaving for Puno any minute. I did not want
to put my case on the roof so I paid an extra fare to
have it inside and soon we were on our way to Puno -
across the altiplano. I did not realise it then but
the altitude at Puno is much much higher than in Cusco
and it wasn't long after arriving in Puno that I was
suffering from altitude effects. Totally ignoring the
sound advice that one would rest for 2 hours to
accustomise oneself to the altitude, there was no way
I could stay indoors with so much going on! For a
start my dear friends Alfredo and Neomy were waiting
in the hotel reception for me - parents of Aquiles in
London - with whom I always stay in Cusco. They had
travelled all the way from Cusco especially to see me
dance in the parade, an 8 hour bus ride from Cusco. My
hotel was full (luckily Jose had had the foresight to
book the room for me well in advance) and they were
staying in a hotel near the central market, about 15
minutes walk away. Next minute Jose arrived with my
dance outfit and we went to my room to try it on as it
would need alteration if it did not fit me. When he
drew the items out of the bag I was stunned at the
beauty of my outfit which was made of a bright red
heavy tweedy linen with huge puff sleeves and
embroidery, and fitted jacket with brass buttons.
However to ensure it would fit they had made it far
too big! The jacket could have been taken in 4 inches
each side and even pulling the skirt up to my bust I
was still in danger of tripping over the hem. Around
my waist to secure it all in place was a heavily
embroidered belt about 3 inches wide but we decided
that a thicker one was in order to keep the skirt in
place, which we would buy in the market later. I also
had a hat with trailing ribbons in the colours of the
Huj Mayas and a white scarf around my neck with the
name Huj embroidered in red large letters on one side
and Maya on the other - and black sandals with sequins
on the front like all the andean women wear when
dressed in their national costumes. I was so thrilled
with it that I could not resist keeping it on - and
Alfredo and Neomy were really impressed with it too.
We then went into town and Jose stayed with us until
it was time for him to go off and play with other
musicians during the parade of the virgin. He said the
rest of the Huj Mayas were playing far away on the
other side of town and I said I would wait and see
them later. I had missed participating in the arena
that morning along with the whole band and they had
gone off to different parts of Puno to play. Alfredo,
Neomy and I found a good spot to watch the parade and
Javi left us at this point saying he would catch up
with us the following morning as he would be with me
all day and take photographs. He had to go back to
Juliaca for a second time to be with his girlfriend
that afternoon. We stayed about 4 hours watching and
enjoying the dancers and bands in their wonderful
costumes until it started to rain and I was quite
tired anyway so I suggested we would find a place to
eat dinner and have an early night. We found a nice
chicken restaurant - Peruvian chicken a la brasa is
popular all over Peru like MacDonalds is in England
and we were soon tucking in to a nice meal and then
Alfredo escorted me to my hotel before retracing his
steps to escort Neomy back to their hotel. We agreed
they would come to my hotel in the morning around 8
am, knowing that Jose would come by at 9.30 to collect
me, and thus we would have time for breakfast together
first.

I was quite glad to fall into bed once back in my room
as I had a pounding headache that no amount of tablets
could ease. Even my extra strength ibruprofen tablets
that I had brought in case of back ache did not touch
that pounding head - this is one of the affects of the
altitude along with the light headed dizziness. The
next morning I could understand why my head was aching
so much when I twisted the top off my foundation cream
and half of it flew into the air. Everything in tubes
was swollen to the point of bursting open, so
imagining a similar affect in my head, the aches were
no surprise!!!

The four of us had a good breakfast in a nearby hotel,
mine only offering rooms and no meals and were back in
time of Jose's arrival. Down in Plaza des Armas
Alfredo and Neomy decided to look for a good place to
sit and watch the parade before all the places filled
up, so we said our goodbyes until later and Javi,
Jose and I went to the market and bought the wider
belt plus I bought a little knitted lamb to hold in
one hand and a piece of material tied into a knot to
have in the other hand while I danced. We then took a
taxi to a spot on the edge of town where all the Huj
Mayas were congregating and there it was great to see
lots of familiar faces - including Milton, the guy
from Juliaca, who came straight over to ask if I
remembered him and it was great to see him again three
and a half years later. Angel was there, a musician
who I also befriended about the same time, plus the
guys who keep in regular touch by email - Alfredo,
Cesar and others and of course Juan. They were all
enjoying a few beers whilst they congregated and I had
some as well as the sun was beating down so strongly.

Then we were on the move, the band playing as we went
along and this was my only opportunity to learn and
practise my dance steps. Soon we were in the market
place where it was really crowded with bands etc
awaiting their turn to join the parade. We were number
25 out of 69 and finally we took our places around
12.30 ready to go. Words cannot describe how I felt
from beginning to end that day, extreme nervousness at
taking part in the parade, anxiety as to whether I
would have the stamina to complete it, knowing that
the parade would wind through the whole town, the
streets heavily lined with people all the way. In the
market place the atmosphere was electric, complete
chaos. As well as me in my lovely red costume some
other foreign people were also taking part - a
Californian girl from Bolivia who was dressed in the
men's costume and would plan panpipe and drums along
with them - plus two girls from Japan and USA dressed
in the white dresses worn on Taquile island. My place
was right at the front behind a troop of girls aged 6
to 8 in lovely embroidered costumes and head-dresses,
then the two girls in white with yet more child
dancers, then about 40 women dancers and then the Huj
Mayas who numbered over 150 musicians. Finally the
moment arrived and we were off. Javi was right in
front of me the whole time taking pictures and was
enlisted to carry one of the huge Huj Maya banners at
times as well, him at the front and the other banner
holders weaving in and out amongst all us dancers. The
parade moved slowly, so slowly at times that it was
quite hard to dance the steps but I managed okay and
it was amazing the reception us foreign dancers got
from the crowds who cheered and shouted bravo and
through the ensuing five hours of that parade parents
brought babies for us to hold while their pictures
were taken, and children, men and women alike wanted
their picture taken with either me, or the other two
from USA and Japan, and all throughout the day people
came forward and offered beer or soft drinks to
sustain us. After a while under that hot Puneno sun I
began to tire but whenever my steps slowed the crowd
cried Baila baila (which means dance dance) and the
more energetically I danced the more I was cheered and
I was interviewed by two Peruvian television channels
and a Puneno radio station as well. It was the most
fantastic and incredible experience to be part of that
wonderful fiesta and well worth travelling so far to
be a part of it. The last hour was the worst as I was
so tired I ached in every bone of my body and
summoning the energy to keep dancing took all the
willpower I possessed to keep going until the end -
five hours later!!!! We were then all in a crowd
enjoying beers and I knew the drinking would go on
until the early hours and I had been so looking
forward to that part of the day as well and chatting
to various friends among the Huj Mayas but I was
simply too tired. Half an hour later I said my
goodbyes and Javi, Alfredo and I were in a taxi back
to the centre of town. Although early we were all
dying to get to bed and sleep - even Javi - but we
were hungry as well so decided to change and then meet
up again for a meal before saying goodnight. We opted
for another chicken meal in the restaurant opposite
their hotel so they wouldn't have far to walk
afterwards and then Javi accompanied me back to my
hotel in a taxi before going home himself, agreeing to
come back for me in the morning, as both of us would
accompany Neomy and Alfredo to the bus station for
their bus home to Cusco.

I literally fell into bed around 8 pm looking forward
to a good night's sleep, but unfortunately was only
able to sleep until 4 am - still being on European
time - so was up sorting out my suitcase soon after 4,
packing most into my case with just the necessities
for a couple of days in my flightbag, then a long hot
shower around 5.30 and quietly reading a book until
they arrived at 8 am. Javi was late meeting us, having
overslept as we discovered when we phoned and he
agreed to go straight to the bus station and meet us
there. As it happened there wasn't any reason to rush
because their bus left almost 2 hours later and we
stayed with them until they could board it, with me to
let them know when I will arrive in Cusco.

Back in town we went straight to my hotel to collect
my main case and in the same taxi went on to Javi's
home as his mum was expecting us that morning. Whilst
watching the parade that first day I bumped into
javi's nephew Franco and his Mum who asked when I
would be coming to visit and we agreed on tuesday. At
the house it was lovely to see them all again and they
were all thrilled with the gifts I had brought from
England, mostly London related items, and we shared
fruit juices and Javi handed me some CDs he had got
for me plus acouple of dvds and he was thrilled with
the ones I had brought for him. The music was playing
and we were all feeling really happy. Then Javi's Mum
went to market to get the things to cook lunch and I
decided to take that moment to visit the nearby
internet cafe to start my first email, only to get
there and have just enough time to read my messages
and was just in the first 10 minutes of writing to you
all when the power went and although it came back on
again moments later the internet connection had been
lost. So I went back to Javi's and we spent the next
couple of hours listening to music until another
internet friend of his from Arequipa arrived, another
collector of andean music like us, so the three of us
had loads to talk about and when he opened his case
and showed a CD carrier with about 40 CDs in it we
were both going through it, getting really excited to
find some real gems. Javi and his freind each borrowed
about 18 CDs each to listen to and copy and return
later and his friend agreed to do some exchanging with
me as well. Whilst there I wrote down and will keep
safely a list of about 14 CDs that I want from those
he had carried with him - much of it by bands from
Arequipa where he lives, and definitely unobtainable
from as far away as Europe. Then we all sat down to a
wonderful lunch - one of those excellent Peruvian
soups I so adore followed by Aji de pollo, a delicious
slightly spicy shredded chicken dish eaten with rice,
potato and decorated with black olives and hard boiled
egg slices, all washed down with a home prepared spicy
fruit drink. It was lovely to see Javi's Mum, brother,
sister and nephew again, and when we left later we
agreed I would revisit on Thursday (as the plans then
were for me to accompany Juan to Amantani island, 7
hours boat ride out in Lake Titicaca). After saying
goodbye to his friend, Javi phoned one of the Huj Maya
mobile numbers to find out where they were and we were
soon in a taxi on our way to where they were playing.
When we arrived I was amazed to recognise the outside
as being Rita and Agustin's house - lovely people who
made me so welcome in 2003, with whom it is difficult
to keep in touch as neither have email addresses,
although in those 2 years I did write a couple of
times and send copies of photos taken in that visit.
When Agustin came to the door to let us in he was
thrilled to see us and ushered us inside and I could
hardly recognise his home inside which has been vastly
extended, and also in those 2 years Rita has given
birth to a little girl who is just over 12 months old
now. He ushered us through the house to a large patio
at the back where about a dozen Huj Mayas were playing
music and sharing some booze, and almost before my
feet hit the patio I was drawn up to dance. The same
guy plus a couple of others whisked me up to dance
several times until I was exhausted all over again and
had to beg for space to breathe and one of them
brought chairs for Javi and I to sit down. We had
fresh mango juice and a little later with Juan I went
to a nearby shop and bought some booze as my
contribution. I am always so overwhelmed at the
wonderful welcome the Huj Mayas give me, and that
afternoon was no exception. Agustin insisted that I
leave the hotel and come to their home and stay for
the remainder of my visit, imploring me to stay as
long as I could in Puno, that ever since 2003 they had
been looking forward to my return. Later in the
afternoon he got up and made a speech, thanking me for
coming from so far away to be with them, and after
that they insisted that I make a speech, something I
am always too shy to do at home, but it came naturally
there amongst those lovely people, to find the words
to express what an honour it had been to participate
with them and to see them again after so long and the
fantastic welcome they had all given me.

Seated once more, the Californian lady arrived, the
one who played bombo and panpipes in the parade, and
we were soon deep in conversation, delighted to meet
someone who feels about andean music and culture in
the same way. Lynette is actually living in Bolivia
and has done for the 3 years and we had so much to
talk about and have exchanged email addresses in order
to keep in touch.

About 8 pm the party was breaking up and we said our
goodbyes and Juan escorted me back to my hotel but on
the way we stopped at a little cafe and had a bowl of
soup each. After some discussion we decided not to
visit Amantani island after all due to the heavy rains
which makes travelling on the lake yet more dangerous,
an aspect I had not even considered hitherto! We
agreed he would come by for me around 8.30. In some
ways even though disappointed at not seeing Amantani
after all, it was probably just as well, with time
running out here as both today and tomorrow would have
been taken up due to the long boat ride each way.
Although the weather has been fine and warm in the
days here it always rains at night, sometimes all
night long and by rain I mean rain, it literally
hammers down so that roads are awash within moments so
one can imagine the affect it has on the lake, higher
water levels etc.

Last night was the best night's sleep since I got here
and this morning Alfredo called by to say goodbye as
he was travelling back to Cusco, and we agreed to meet
there next week when I get there too.