My Birthday in Ilo.

The flight was only half an hour and a smooth one. Another nice take off and landing which I always enjoy. Once I collected my baggage and made my way through I could see Elva waiting and waved and we hugged each other to death, we were so pleased to see each other again. In no time we found a taxi and were on our way to the bus terminal. Once there we found that the next bus to Ilo wasn't until 12 noon and here we were at just gone 9 am. We went upstairs to a cafe - me choosing that one because Rocoto Relleno was on the menu. The first thing was a glass of water for the ducks and I held first one and then the other until the glass was empty and the waiter brought another and they finished most of that as well. Just as well as we had a long hot journey ahead of us. Meanwhile Elva was downstairs trying to find another bus company with an earlier departure and she came back and said there was one departing for Moquegua at 9.30 and that buses left there for Ilo on the hour so that would be quicker than the long wait until noon.

Soon we were seated on the bus, the ducks on my lap and I cuddled them most of the way to Moquegua, a journey of just over four hours. The weather was unbelievably hot - I could hardly comprehend the difference just a half hour flight away. It was quite hard to stay awake, so the most intrepid of the ducks I put back in the bag, (and its little head popped out to see what was going on almost continuously like a jack in the box). The other one was more tranquil and once snuggled into my neck stayed there without moving. Thus I was able to sleep without fear of losing it.

At the first stop we awoke as each time buses stopped street sellers got on selling their wares and we bought two bags of tangerines, which were really refreshing in such heat. The scenery was mountains and desert, and we noticed the state of some of the roads that had collapsed on some bends and were built up again with piles of rubble. I was getting worried about the ducks after a while going so long without water so when I opened a bottle of Inca Kola to drink I tried pouring some into the bottle cap and they loved it. Each one had about 10 capfuls each and hardly batted an eyelid at the different taste.

When we finally reached Moquegua and were driving into the town the sights that met us were heartbreaking - houses that had disintegrated into piles of rubble or with walls teetering at angles and tents precariously perched in the remains of their homes. The damage to property was horrendous. Even houses that were still habitable had gaping cracks down some walls or the roof half caved in.

When the bus stopped we heard a man shouting he was going to Ilo and Elva called through the window that yes we needed a lift. As the bus stopped the taxi driver came over and helped us with our things and soon we were in the taxi - me in the front and we were sharing with another couple. Just before it departed another man tried to get in the front as well but there was no room with the ducks so he had to sit in the boot (it was an estate car). We finally reached Ilo at 3.30 and the taxi driver took us right to the door. It was great to arrive safely and I soon found a corner of the garden to cordon off and you would never think they had been travelling all day. They tucked into a bowl of food, had a drink and bathed in a saucepan of water and were at home in no time. Elva got busy cooking and we enjoyed a nice meal in time for Hugo’s return and around the same time Hugo’s Mum arrived who I’d not met before and we all had a chat.

It was certainly much warmer down there on the coast than it was up in the highlands. Considering it was the middle of winter their weather is not so bad. A few days later I asked at an Agency dealing with the Iberia Airline about taking the ducklings home and was told that there was an embargo on the transport of livestock and no way that I could take them home. This meant I only had another 9 days with them, because if I could not take them home I would be leaving them in Ilo when I left for Cusco on 18 July, Elva and Hugo having a large back yard which is completely enclosed by a high wall, so they would have a perfectly safe home. I wished I could take them though. The pair of them were so affectionate, one of them, probably the female, especially so. Earlier that day we had been to the market - where I bought enough warm material to make three sets of bedding, food and drink containers with lids etc, ready for their long journey, to no avail. We paid another visit to another agency where Elva has a friend working, only to get the same result.

On a brighter note I had a really nice birthday on the Sunday. First of all at 7.30 in the morning a huge floral arrangement was delivered of red roses, red carnations, some white flowers and greenery, all spray flecked with gold and tied with a huge white ribbon. This was from Elva and Hugo, their sons Hugo and Willy and Willy's family. This adorned the table indoors until the afternoon and later was the centrepiece outside which is where family and friends joined us for dinner - Elva having specially made a huge lace tablecloth big enough to cover the table-tennis table in the front yard. Elva made me a beautiful tunic style blouse with lace insets at the front, secured with pearlised buttons - I don’t know how she achieved such a perfect fit without premeasuring me but she did. I also had 2 bouquets of flowers from Willy's children and a set of kitchen utensils from Tita his wife - so that I wouldn't forget them, she said. As if I could! I would always remember the great time I had with them all here.

All morning preparations were in progress - Lechon being the dish of honour - Roast Pork Bolivian style - along with various accompaniments. At the last minute a quick visit to the market to buy a bottle of Pisco, limes and angostura bitters to make Pisco Sours - a really delicious cocktail - they made enough for everyone to have two each. After the meal we all had a bottle of my favourite Cusqueña beer and then Hugo produced a jug of punch made with rum, sprite, lemons etc and he kept making more throughout the evening. All the while my favourite Andean CDs were being played and we all danced later which was great fun. Considering I was far from home, it was a great birthday, thanks to such wonderful friends.

On the Monday, as mentioned, we visited the feria - once in the morning to get all the ingredients for a meal I would be booking next day - then home for lunch - then back again in the afternoon to visit the whole of the market. These incredible markets and the vast array of produce available endlessly fascinated me. Everything - rice, sugar, different types of flour, is portrayed in huge sacks with the tops rolled back - even herbs - imagine sack-loads of oregano etc. Shopping is never this interesting back home. You could not beat that lovely interaction with the people selling their wares. Not just stalls galore, but for example, an old man with a wheelbarrow full of bags of carrots shouting his wares, a child selling tea towels, etc. I could spend all day just browsing and looking and enjoying the atmosphere of those fantastic markets. The next day I would be cooking lunch for the same people who came to my birthday party. I’d decided on Rocoto Relleno for starters and a chicken curry for the main course. For those who don't know what rocoto relleno is, it is peppers - or rocoto chillis with the seeds removed - stuffed with a mixture of aji amarillo, garlic, peas, finely chopped carrots, minced lamb, coarsely crushed peanuts, oregano and fresh parsley and seasoning. This is served with small cooked potatoes, topped with a slice of cheese. The whole lot covered with slices of hard-boiled egg and then a pan-load of scrambled egg is poured over the top and baked in the oven. Its the most delicious concoction imaginable, believe me!

A couple of days later on Hugo’s day off we were planning to go to Tacna for the day and would be leaving at 8 am as it was a two-hour bus journey. There is an enormous market there every day and I was especially looking forward to it because as well as selling all the everyday things as per the markets in Ilo, there would also be a vast array of artesanial crafts, which I loved browsing through. I must have explored all the best shops in Cusco and La Paz where artesanial crafts were especially concentrated.

That first week back in Ilo was fairly quiet as I started feeling unwell in Cusco the day before travelling back to Ilo and it was only a week later that I began to feel more like myself. I lost my appetite altogether! On the Tuesday when I cooked lunch for the same friends who visited on my birthday I found it was quite a struggle to eat any of it, even something as delicious as Rocoto Relleno, which along with Lechon were my two favourite South American dishes. Ilo was a lovely tranquil place to be when feeling under the weather, especially with someone as delightful as Elva looking after me. For three days she put me on a special diet of thin chicken broth, gelatina (jelly) and tea with cinnamon powder and aniseed seeds added - which with one sweetener was really refreshing. Considering I hated tea until then I got quite partial to it. And amazingly, this diet worked and I was recovered in time for the weekend excursions.

The DucklingsAll week I had been enjoying the two little ducklings, and wracking my brains for ways to get them home to England. A few enquiries at this end didn’t look too hopeful so I wrote home so that enquiries could be made at that end as well. Not holding out too much hope I became more and more tempted by the idea of smuggling them home. They were so tame and affectionate that I decided to get them used to my body movements without squawks of indignance by carrying them around in my shirt pockets for part of each day. The one shirt I had with two pockets was okay but one duckling being bigger than the other it was a tight squeeze. So that is how the idea of bigger pockets was born. Elva put two pockets in each of three shirts much deeper and wider to allow for growing room and this proved a great success as there is nothing they loved more than being carried around with me, either snuggled down inside the pocket but if they stood upright they could just peer over the pocket top. They didn't much like the plastic bags I put around their feet and nether regions but this was essential! Once tucked into the pocket though they settled down happily enough.

I carried them like that for four hours the first day and they loved it. They would take food from my hand or sip water from a glass whilst still in the pocket and I was feeling really hopeful that it might be possible to smuggle them home through four flights. On two days I even took them out with me. This worked especially well in the shirt which still has its original pockets inside the new ones as the smaller duck tucked into the inner pocket could see easily over the top of the outer pocket and was so content that it did not budge the whole two hours we were out. The other one could see okay standing upright in the outer pocket. It was hilarious - eg getting on the bus and the looks of amazement on people’s faces seeing two ducks peering out of the pockets and the delight of all the children we passed who all wanted to smooth them. In fact most people were enchanted with them. I had to buy more duck food as they weren’t too keen on the variety purchased a few days earlier and the seller let them try a few varieties to see which produced the most enthusiasm, which I thought was really kind. Its just this kind of thing that made me love shopping there in the markets so much, the interaction with the sellers, many of whom were humourous and really friendly.

Because of the ducks contentment at being carried around like that I was feeling quite confident that I might be able to smuggle them home, so was devastated when the results of enquiries at home were reported back to me, that Iberia Airlines wouldn’t carry livestock under any circumstances, would be fined if they did, and if I tried and got caught I would be fined thousands of pounds and possibly even worse. That even if the airline did give consent I would need vaccination certificates both here in Peru and in the UK and it would probably cost thousands as well in quarantine costs. I was so disappointed and dreaded tuesday night knowing I would have to leave them behind.

I made the most of their delightful company in the meantime, spending several hours with them every day. In the evenings after dark when we brought them in I usually cuddled them all evening until it was time to put them in their box wrapped in fleecy cloth for the night. I hoped they wouldn't miss me too much when I left. If nothing else I would have have been a surrogate mother to them for two weeks - I was convinced they were too young to have been separated from their mother at the time I bought them.

The Sacred Valley.

Next morning I was awoken with a tap on my door at 5 am! It was Alfredo saying we had to make an early start as it was quite a way to travel. After a quick coffee we all set out by taxi to the bus depot in Cusco - four of us as a friend of Alfredo's was accompanying us. We reached the bus depot at 6.45 and luckily managed to get seats. The buses depart as soon as they are filled (this being a family bus service which started with one bus and now is a fleet of them, travelling back and forth to the Sacred Valley all the time). When we got on the bus, Danielo said his farewells, as he was off to school first, playing basketball in the afternoon and going to a disco in the evening.

By 7 am we were on our way and I really enjoyed the one and a half hour journey to get there. We were soon out into the countryside, going through mountains that were greener than those seen from Cusco, or rolling countryside, through little villages etc. Soon the snow-capped mountains of the Sacred Valley could be seen and when it came time to descend deep to the valley floor the views were really breathtakingly stunning. You could see Urubamba far below, getting closer as we went around each bend, and also could see the cloud forests swirling between valley and mountains, giving the whole area an almost ethereal appearance. You could really sense the magic there. Out came my camera and I took quite a series of photos on the way down.

By 8.30 we had arrived and headed into the residential area, as our first stop would be Alfredo's other house there - the one in which all his children were born. The friend who had accompanied us was skilled at making adobe bricks from mud and straw and would be busy in that respect for most of the day. Once inside the gate in the inner courtyard we met the man who is custodian of the place, a chef who lives in the downstairs part of the house and pays rent but acts as custodian as well - he works at one of the top touristic restaurants somewhere in that area. Alfredo asked him to show me the cookery book he got his inspiration from and I was left happily looking through it whilst Alfredo's friend got to work on the adobe bricks and Alfredo had a good look round to ensure all was okay.

I loved that house. You could ascend to the upper story by stairs, which had an upstairs balcony/veranda all around - a really pretty house. I said to Alfredo it would make an excellent hotel in such an area popular with visitors and he agreed. We took some photos there and I picked out 40 pages from the cookery book and later took book plus list of the page numbers to a nearby photocopying place, and it only cost 6 soles for two copies of each page - one for Alfredo and one for me - I left these with a promise to pick them up later in the afternoon. Alfredo and I were pretty hungry by 9.30 as there had been no time for breakfast so we set off to look for a cafe offering one of my favourites and the first one we came to had Adobe de Chancho on the menu (one I quite often make at home) and we enjoyed a plate of this each along with a double portion of the lovely bread you get here and a litre bottle of coca cola to share. We both felt much better afterwards.

We then strolled towards the centre and there was some kind of demonstration and accompanying music, marching etc going on which continued throughout the day. Just off the centre of Urubamba the market began (which takes place there three times a week). Just before going into the market we popped into another cafe so that Alfredo could say hello to his friends there - a middle aged couple who ran the cafe and when we didn't stay long they made us promise to come back later and we said we would.

We spent a couple of hours strolling through the market - there was nothing I love more than browsing and strolling through South American markets - so interesting with all the fresh produce, the friendly people etc - a pleasure without danger in those country places (not dangerous like non-central parts of Cusco). I bought a flute - I now had a charango and flute as well as another set of panpipes, which I found easier than the ones I already had at home. I also had a circular ceramic flute instrument given to me by Adrian as well. We next went into a building in the centre of the market, which was full of juice bars, and we chose a Papaya and Orange combination and watched it being prepared in a blender in front of us. The blender held enough to fill our glasses three times and was really delicious. After the market we went to see another house of Alfredo's, which was rented out to a family with children. In the garden we picked a few oval shaped tomatoes from a tree, a different colour and shape from tomatoes back home. Then we met the family living in the house and some children were in the yard dancing to music on a portable player and I took photos of them and promised to send them when I got back home. Outside there were some children playing in the dust and I asked if I could take their photo and next minute one of them organised the rest into a group, one turning back to pick up a baby brother sitting half naked in the road- these I would send on as well as the ones with the girls dancing, having written down the address before leaving.

By about 1 pm we were back in the cafe and it was a delight to sit at a table with Alfredo's two friends and chat. Virginia went off to buy a bottle of Cusqueña for us to drink and it was such fun with the three of them. By this time the busy period had gone, all meals served and finished with, and they were able to relax with us. When I paid for the beer she disappeared and came back with another bottle and this happened a few times before I realised that payment indicated we wanted more! We drank them all in moderation though and no one got light headed! I admired a Cusqueña calender on the wall and next minute they were taking it down and offered it to me as a present, and wrote such lovely words on the back before handing it to me that there was no way I could refuse it. I had bought two more CDs in the market (one by Proyeccion and another called Mi Ayacucho with various artistes on it. At one point I asked if they had a player and one of them disappeared and came back a few minutes later with a ghetto blaster which they had borrowed from a neighbour. I put Mi Ayacucho on first thinking they would appreciate that more than Proyeccion and I was right. Virginia loved the music, commenting on nearly every song and when it finished I went to change it for the other one, put the CD back in its cover and gave it to her as a present. She was really delighted with it and so was I, to be able to give something back to such lovely people.

Her husband had been trying to explain to me an ecological project he was trying to get going, to protect some of the flora and fauna in the Sacred Valley, and although it was not easy to understand the finer points of the project, I understood enough to know that maybe there are organisations at home that would be interested in supporting such a project. As an illustration he brought me part of a plant and told me to rub the leaves between my fingers and then inhale. The resulting scent was amazing, a slightly medicinal but uplifting kind of smell, which I enjoyed off and on all the time we were there with them. This is one of the plants they are trying to save and is definitely well worth saving. It also has properties even more efficacious than coca leaves for altitude sickness.

We stayed with them for about three hours altogether and then Alfredo wanted to take part in something in the demonstrations that had been going on all day so he gave me the key to get back into the house (he had already showed me how to get into the upstairs part of the house previously) and we agreed to meet back there a couple of hours later. He assured me it was perfectly safe to go wandering about there - not like Cusco - so I decided I would pay another visit to the market as we had not seen all of it earlier on that day.

It was great strolling round - I was trying to find that plant - Mina - but unfortunately wasn't successful. I did buy prepared aji amarillo and panca though, ready to do some Peruvian cooking. When I had almost finished strolling through the produce section of the market I came upon a small livestock area, which is when I fell in love with some baby ducks. There were several in a crate all crying and I couldn’t resist picking one up and it really seemed to welcome being held and quietened down and I was just so smitten that a few minutes later I found I had bought four of them, all in a little carrying box with a bag of the necessary food for them. I was very happy carrying them away with me and could hardly wait to get back to the house to look at them properly.

Back home and comfortably seated in an easy chair upstairs I had all four on my lap and spent the next hour enjoying their company until Alfredo's return. They were so affectionate, welcoming being cuddled and all four were snuggled down on me, jostling for the best position, liking to snuggle in under my chin. I was absolutely enchanted beyond belief. They were so pretty with their yellow and brown colouring, still at the fluffy stage with no feathers yet, the most adorable little faces and all different - one pure yellow, the others varying stages of yellow and brown, each easily recognisable from the rest. Their little wings were only about an inch long at that stage, each duckling standing about 6 inches tall when upright. They enchanted even Alfredo when he got back and Danielo thrilled beyond belief when he saw them later. We then had to dash to catch a bus home but had already decided that we would go back there again upon my return after the 18th, with Danielo as well over a weekend, so that we could visit more of the Sacred Valley - one definite stop being the ruins at Ollantaytambo, which is one of the places in the Sacred Valley that I had also hoped to see. Back at the bus stop we had to wait for a bus and one small one came along which was one of a series laid on for touring parties and we were allowed to get on it and had a nice safe journey back, the box of ducklings safely ensconced on my lap for the journey. The bus driver even dropped us off more centrally, knowing it would be easier to get a taxi from there, and we made it home in time to be there for Danielo's return.

Back at the house Alfredo filled a saucepan with water for them and the ducks all had a drink and even a swim! and Danielo and I had a lot of fun watching them for the next hour while they explored their new quarters. I then spent another hour just cuddling them whilst watching a bit of TV and they loved it. At bedtime I asked Alfredo if the ducks could sleep in their box in my room and he was okay about it. I left the lid open until the very last moment so that they could see me and they were quiet when I was in the room and all started crying whenever I left. When I settled them down to sleep and they knew I was in the same room with them they all went to sleep without any problem too. Next morning I couldn't wait to get out of bed and see them again and had them all up for a half an hour’s cuddle before getting up. Then later downstairs for a bowl of food and a drink and we were working out the best place for them to be safe during the day. Alfredo and I were out going into all the local shops once Danielo had gone to school, trying to find a big enough box for them to have plenty of room to play in and found a reasonable size one in the end. When we went out later they were enjoying the sun (and I had also provided some shade) along with their water to drink or swim in, and a bowl of food). They were perfectly safe from predators in the inner patio of Alfredo's house. The following morning they would be travelling with me in their box on my lap - as I had already checked with Aero Continente that morning that this would be okay. I was hoping I would be able to take them home at the end of the month as well.

The next day after an eventful day travelling I arrived back in Ilo safe and sound. I woke at 4 even before the alarm, gave the little ducks a cuddle and then had time for a quick shower before Alfredo got up. I was really sad when I got back from Cusco the previous day to find that two of the ducklings had died. Even though they were in a box with padding inside, and sheltered from wind, it must have been too cold for them. That day wasn’t sunny like it normally was. I was really upset to lose two of them and could only think they got too cold by swimming in their water bowl.

We left for the airport at 5.30 in the end and had to wait until 6 am before baggage could be checked in. I was travelling quite light - my small case only weighed 10 kg, but with the ducklings in a box which just fit inside a breathable textile loose weave rucksack, plus another bag. At the airport I bought a load of different Cusco breads to take to Ilo and we had time for a coffee just outside the airport - large mugs of nice coffee for only one sol (if we had partaken in the airport it would have been around five soles each!!) I went through to the departure lounge about 25 minutes before the plane was due to leave.

Of course I couldn’t let the bag with the ducks go through the Xray machine and when they realised I had livestock they said I could not take them through. I was devastated and pleaded with them and I think they felt sorry for me because they said they would help me. They just needed a signature and were on the phone trying to get the necessary permission from Aero Continente. The time was getting closer and closer to the time to fly out and I was getting really anxious. Eventually the man helping me took me through and was arguing with someone on my behalf to try and get a signature and it did not look as though there would be any success, when suddenly another earth tremor occurred. The man who had been arguing went white with fright and signed the book without any further argument. For me, I was so relieved that experiencing another earthquake seemed a small price to pay to get the permission to take them on board. There was a delay in the departure because of the quake and during this delay another female Aero Continente official explained that normally it is prohibited to take livestock on board but they were making an exception in my case. I was so relieved. I didn’t relax properly until I was on board the aircraft, the bag at my feet where I could keep an eye on it.

El Alto and Back to Cusco.

Sunday morning I woke up at 6.30 and got in the shower and was just getting out when the phone rang and it was Adrian to say a radio taxi was on its way and would arrive in five minutes to pick me up and take me to his house. What a panic to get ready in five minutes - I just had time to put on some clothes, throw a few things into a bag and leave, my hair dripping wet etc. The taxi actually had a bit of difficulty finding the address where we had to go, but eventually he succeeded and the taxi driver took me up to the door as I was worried when I saw some dogs in the street.

Once inside it was lovely to see the room with all the posters of Rumillajta, Kallawaya and Adrian’s former band the Trovadores - as well as meet his sister. I cuddled four baby rabbits, three weeks old, as well for a bit before Adrian, Maria and I set off for the wholesale market on the bus where they bought all their vegetables for the week. I wished they had such places in England - the choice of vegetables etc was fantastic and I was very tempted to stock up on spices except they would only be put into plastic bags and would break long before getting them back to England! From that market we took a bus back to near Maria's house and then parted company - Maria to take the things back to her house and Adrian and I got on another bus and went to that big campesino market at El Alto again, this time looking for musicians.

(Before I tell you the next bit, I must say that I found the CD shop of Eddy Lima a few days previously (formerly a member of Jacha Mallku and latterly a musician in Las Yuras) and bought eight CDs there. Three of these were by a band I had not heard before called Wara because when the young girl in the shop played a couple of tracks from one CD I went so crazy on their music that I bought all three that were available). I also bought two volumes of famosos charangos, a Los Yuras (Eddy showed me his picture in the CD cover and gave me this one for 10 bolivianos less as well as giving me a free gift of a picture with miniature instruments on it), one CD by Altiplano, plus a couple of others. I would be buying CDs direct from Eddy - as well as Adrian - thereafter. Never again would I struggle to find certain Bolivian music in future!

Getting back to the story however, we walked quite a way into the market looking for musicians, having different snacks on the way. I also bought a really lovely Bolivian shawl. Eventually we came across a band of zamponas players with two drummers and cymbals, called Kallpay. We listened and enjoyed their music and one of them also called Adrian was a friend of Adrian so we stayed a while, talking when they took a break, listening when they played, and I was really enjoying myself. I bought both tapes they were selling and all the band autographed each tape cover for me and the one called Adrian gave me his email address, so that I could write to him when I got back to England.

While we were still with them some other friends of Adrian came along and he exclaimed that it really was my lucky day because it was the whole band of Wara and it was fantastic to meet them all, have a photo taken with them (plus one with the other band) and Dante of Wara gave me a colour poster of them, plus showed us the colour supplement in El Diario of them (I later bought two copies of the newspaper just for the supplement, one for me and one for Stasha - I also recently bought newspapers a) in Peru for the free Inti Raymi poster and b) in Bolivia for the free Kjarkas poster!). They were also distributing leaflets for their concert that coming saturday in the same venue as Kjarkas - I was so disappointed that I wouldn't be there imagining they would be really fantastic live. I especially loved their latest CD which was a fusion of Andean and rock music. Normally I didn't go overboard for fusion but this was something else, really brilliant.

Whilst at the campesino market I had my life read by an old man with mercury, heated in a pan, then I filled a ladle and dropped it into water where it immediately solidified into a molten mass with a sizzle as it hit the water. The reading was interesting and all good things, including a long road to travel which intrigued me no end, and although nothing specific was said I felt optimistic for the future! Adrian said I could also have my life read from a coca leaf but unfortunately we ran out of time. Later we visited a nearby other market which stretched as far as the eye could see, selling everything one could possibly imagine - this was near a nice square/park area where people could relax and I took more photos there of people. After that square and before the big market, there was a bit of a rumpus nearby with someone shouting that thieves were in operation. One lady vendor told me to hang onto my bag really firmly - while Adrian went to investigate. He told me later it was a drunken man wielding a knife, which caused all the trouble.

Eventually we made our way back to Maria's house where she gave us some of the food she had been cooking. Then the four of us set out, Adrian, me, Maria and her son and we took one bus back up to El Alto and then another down into the Valley to a village quite a long way down. The road down was little more than a dirt track winding down and down and the views were breathtaking. All day it had been a really hot day, bright sun etc, and I was wearing one of my usual camisole tops. The bus was packed full and I enjoyed the ride with all the Bolivian people in the bus. I felt really privileged to be experiencing real Bolivian life like this. I cannot imagine many foreign people find their way to such places. Down in the valley we came to a village, which also had a lake - I cannot remember its name. First we went into a cafe and had a nice meal with lamb and afterwards walked through the village and got into a boat, which a man punted across to the other side. It was great to see the waterfowl in their natural habitat - swans and coots - but before we reached the other side a tremendous wind blew up, creating a dust storm and everyone had to hide their faces to protect their eyes and from a hot day it went suddenly very very cold. Even putting on my cardigan I felt very cold so was very glad I had bought that shawl as I put it on. I asked Adrian if I had tied it correctly and he looked and said I almost got it right but it would do for the moment (by this I realised that I didn't get it right and it was hard not to smile, wondering what he thought!).

We had fun in the village, playing on table football etc, but because that cold weather also brought snow we didn't stay quite as long as intended. We crossed back in another boat and almost had a collision with another boat full of Bolivian ladies, and we all laughed. I took a couple of photos and they were pleased and said they wished they could have a copy. The bus taking everyone back took even longer to get back up that winding road, struggling even in first gear at times, and people were falling asleep in the bus. It really was a fantastic day spent with Adrian and when it came time to say goodbye I gave all three of them a big hug of affection. Then Adrian put me on the right bus to get to the centre, telling the driver to tell me to get off at San Francisco, and although I was tempted to go to an internet cafe, it was getting dark so I took a taxi home and as usual the driver waited until I got inside the gate. These few precautions were all it took to get over the dog problem. I avoided walking in the street except in the centre and then there was no problem.

Monday was another excellent day. I met Adrian in the centre at 9.30 in the morning and was with him until 2 pm. First we found a bank where I could buy dollars (for when I am back in Peru as I couldn't buy any there), then to Lloyd Air Boliviano to reconfirm the flight. We also went to a cafe for refreshments which is when Adrian told me all about his various projects. By this time I was getting on with him really well and already regretting that I had only allowed for one week in Bolivia. My whole last day felt really poignant I was so sad at the thought of leaving. By this time we had discussed me coming back the following year - he said his brother had quite a big house and I could stay there.

Our next plan that day was to look for a poncho, as Adrian had good contacts to get them at a good price. At first I could not see any I liked enough to pay the price but eventually did and in the same shop also bought a beautiful bag and another jacket. By the time we finished it was 2 pm and I also bought a large suitcase for 50 dollars, knowing I would need it for all the extra baggage being taken home at the end of the holiday. Adrian called a taxi, put me in and told the driver I was only taking the things home and would be coming back to town immediately as I was meeting Jorge at 3 pm as prearranged.

First of all we went to the recording studio as he had for me a Rumillajta recording that was only issued in Bolivia - completely unobtainable in Europe. I was really thrilled with this. Then I went shopping with him and in the process fell in love with yet another poncho -making three purchased altogether. I also bought more CDs at a shop selling them at quite reasonable prices - including four by Awatinas, the latest Kala Marka, latest Kjarkas, two more by Wara, plus others by Sukay, Naupajmanta and Amaru.

Our next stop was to the Instrument Museum, which is owned by Ernesto Cavour, another of Jacco's friends who I might have met as well if I had been in La Paz for longer. We spent an hour or more in the museum and it was incredibly interesting. We had to rush through the last part as time was running out - I would like to go back there again one day. At 6.45 Jorge put me into a taxi and I just got back in time for Adrian’s arrival with three more CDs, two LPs which were out of print years ago and collectors items now (a Rumillajta LP called Ayni and also an LP by his previous band Los Trovadores, more than 30 years old). Both of these will be really treasured by me. We arranged that he would collect me at 7.30 in the morning.

After he had gone I copied two of my Wara CDs onto a tape to give him and whilst doing so wrote him a nice thank you letter. In the morning when he arrived he had done exactly the same! He had copied two Raymond Tebenot CDs onto a tape for me and written me a lovely letter as well (I read it on the plane back to Cusco that morning and felt really delighted that he considered me such a valued friend). I was so sad about leaving that Adrian actually commented on how quiet I was on the long taxi ride up to El Alto and the airport. I think he knew how sorry I was to be leaving. At the airport he organised the checking in of my luggage, the payment of the airport tax (25 dollars exit tax) and stayed with me right up until the moment I went through to the departure lounge. The flight was excellent, lasted an hour and was clear skies all the way and a brilliant view - first over the vast plain then over lake Titicaca which is so enormous it’s like a sea. We had a nice meal on board and the hour soon flew. Arrival at Cusco, the same excellent Andean band greeting new arrivals, and I was outside where Alfredo awaited me and we were at his house by 10.30 am, and half an hour later were off out again. We had decided to go up to Sacsaywaman and went by bus. Once there we took several photos but when we came to the actual fortress itself we had to pay 10 dollars before we could proceed. We decided not to just then, because for that 10 dollars you got a pass that lasted 10 days and included entrance to a few other places. As I was only there three days it wasn’t worth it - I decided to get it when I returned from Ilo.

We walked back down to Cusco afterwards through some pretty and narrow streets, but after a bit Alfredo told me to walk as quickly as I could as he sensed danger in the area - he had had a few words with someone in the street and obviously there was some menace afoot. I never walked so fast in my life, felt quite scared, but luckily we got to the other end of that narrow street to a more populated area without mishap. We went home for lunch but went back to Cusco again with my passport, as I needed it to complete my reservation for Arequipa. It didn't take long for Alfredo and I to have a good laugh again after my return. Once the reservations were done for Friday’s flight and I knew the plane would be leaving at 7.15 in the morning, we were just leaving Aero Continente and Alfredo turned back and asked what time I had to be at the airport. When they said by 5 am, his face was such a picture of dismay that I was killing myself laughing and so was he! I teased him all evening about it, first by saying I would treat him to a beer as consolation and we went into a little shop nearby where he knows the lady and she produced some stools for us to sit on and Alfredo and I shared a big bottle of Cusque–a (1100 ml size)and Danielo had a coca cola. I knew he was pleased at my return on the taxi going into Cuzco centre that evening. I had not seen much of him all day as he was at school and I was down at the internet cafe when he came back and was there until they both came for me for our taxi into Cusco. Alfredo jumped in the front and Danielo sat in the back with me and put his head on my shoulder as his way of letting me know he was pleased I was back. I felt really touched by that.

Once we had sorted out my flights and had our drinks we spent a couple of hours just strolling - with me leading the way through all the craft shops which were incredibly interesting just for browsing even if one did not really intend to buy. I couldn’t resist buying another jacket though!

Whilst strolling we came upon a street artiste creating a picture from spray cans etc. We watched for about 15 minutes because his skill was phenomenal and he got an incredible loud cheer from the crowd when he had finished. His picture was then up to the highest bidder and we left people bidding to get it. We guessed it would be quite expensive and hoped he did well out of it. Such talent in such a different art direction deserved a just reward.

Around 10 pm we headed home and tucked into a big plate of chicken stew that Alfredo had made especially for me and it was really delicious. I didn’t have the appetite to have any before we set out that evening, which I think he was quite disappointed about, but I certainly enjoyed it upon our return. Before going to bed we had already agreed we would be going to Urubamba in the Sacred Valley next morning.

Live Music in La Paz.

I enjoyed the whole morning brilliantly with Adrian. When he arrived at the appartment he brought seven CDs with him and gave me one as a birthday present (making two Kallawaya ones he had given as gifts), and I would be buying the other six. We then went on a series of buses and during the journey I told Adrian that I had spent over a year looking for his Kallawaya Fiesta CD and that he could sell a lot of music in the UK if there was an outlet there, and I said I would help in any way I could. So as a result I would be taking a dozen of his CDs back with me to try to sell them for him. I enjoyed the bus ride up to El Alto and took a few photos from the bus. The views there were stunning and different from Peru because all the mountains were capped in snow, whereas in Peru they were not. When we finally reached El Alto, he remembered there was a campesino market, a really big one, and asked me if I wanted to go there. I jumped at the chance, as it is just those kinds of places that interest me most, far removed from tourist attractions. And walking through the market was fantastic, really interesting. We came across a band playing religious music, stopped to listen for a while and when a cassette was produced I was the first one to buy it! The view from there was fantastic too and I took a few photos and one Bolivian man asked me to take a photo with him in it and when I agreed, he asked if his friend could be in it too and I waited until they posed for me and took the picture. He was so delighted even though he would never see it! I bought a knitted cardigan that was obviously secondhand but so pretty I didn't care and I also bought one of those big textile shawls in which women either carry their babies on their backs or fill with things to sell which are carried on their backs.

We walked all the way to the other side, which was a long way. There were rail tracks to walk on as the mines used to use these tracks, but it was very muddy and puddles everywhere, as it had rained heavily in the night (and snowed as well, higher up). We passed several people cooking and selling food and it smelled fantastic, but when I suggested to Adrian we eat there he said it was not a good idea as it could not be guaranteed, but when we got to the other side there was a couple of cafes and we went in and enjoyed a lamb dish with rice and potatoes and papa seca, and a bowl of soup which contained meat and vegetables. It was really delicious. Afterwards we took a bus back a while and got off and he put me onto another bus to the centre, asking the driver to put me off at the post office, and he took a different bus to go to his guitar workshop. I would not have minded seeing that as well, but I thought there would be other chances other days. I was so grateful that he devoted so much to his day on me. He promised to phone me later on. I normally didn’t see him in the evenings, so decided to send Jorge an email and perhaps even phone him and see if he would like to meet that night. I had received an email from him only that day and he still wanted to meet and show me around. I thought that maybe with him I could see a bit of La Paz at night.

I had noticed on the bus coming down the hill towards the post office that Kalamarka were playing that night in concert and decided to mention it to Adrian when he phoned later if it proved impossible to get hold of Jorge. When I had read in my friend Jacco's email his suggestion to visit one of the peñas I had no idea then that I would be going to one that very night! I had sent an email to Jorge saying I would phone him when I got back to the appartment. As per the day before I was in the internet cafe several hours and forgot the time I was so busy catching up so as soon as I got outside I got a taxi straightaway and was back in the appartment within 20 minutes and doubled the fare so that the driver would wait until I got inside the gate. Once inside - this time I found the house easily! - I phoned Jorge on his cellular phone and he answered and when I told him where I was staying - he said he was working not far away and would take a break and come straightaway to meet me and we arranged to meet at Plaza Adela Zamudio at 7 pm.

This gave me about 15 minutes to get ready and soon enough I was outside, checking the street both ways before unlocking the gate and locking it again after me. In the plaza I had to wait a few minutes as the traffic was really bad but when he arrived it was great to meet him at last and we sat on one of the seats in the middle of the plaza to chat for about 20 minutes - I was very impressed with his excellent English - and during the course of conversation I told him about the street banner I had seen that afternoon, announcing the Kalamarka concert that evening, and he said that he was working and could not go with me but would take me there and come back for me afterwards if I didn't mind being at the concert on my own. I was really delighted at this kind offer, and really excited once I knew I would definitely be seeing Kalamarka live, and I dashed back to get my camera and some more money while Jorge flagged a taxi down for us. Once at Peña Huari, he got me settled inside at a nice table right by the stage to the side (all the ones at the front were already reserved) and checked he would be able to get in to fetch me when he came there after work (he was recording with some ladies not far from there). On the table next to mine was a party of French people, who were obviously there for a meal at the peña as part of their tour that day, and Jorge said I could be moved onto that table after they finished if I wished and I agreed.

Before actually going in, Jorge had checked what time it would finish and when they said 2 in the morning I could see that that was rather late for him and quickly assured him that I was grateful to be there at all and that I would readily leave after the first half of the concert if he wished. I was seated by 7 pm with Kalamarka due to play at 9.30 and I decided to eat there as well as there had been no time between getting home and phoning Jorge. Although it was quite expensive, I ordered a bottle of wine to last me the evening, my favourite chicken soup (which is usually nearly the same as Sopa de Gallina) and having already tried alpaca, decided to go for one of the llama specialities on the menu and chose a llama peppered steak. All this was really excellent, although I did feel guilty eating the llama… They are so cute! Although two and half hours to wait for Kalamarka, there was a lovely show of lots of different acts before them - a duo playing when I arrived, then dancers, then another band of 4, then more dancers, then another group (all playing lovely Andean music and even the dancing was to great Andean music) and I was enjoying myself beyond belief. Eventually the party of french people went on their way (I heard their guide saying that if they liked to pay ten dollars they could stay and see one of Bolivia’s best bands and none of them wanted to - if only they realised what they were missing!). I was sorry the waiter forgot to move me onto that table because a few minutes later it was filled with the wives and families of some of the musicians and it would have been great to have sat with them!

I could barely believe that two evenings could be so different - wednesday evening so horrible and then thursday evening so fantastic. It just goes to prove why I am usually so optimistic in life, knowing that at a bad time it doesn't take long before things come around and things are good again. And when Kalamarka came on they were absolutely brilliant - you cannot imagine how happy and thrilled I was to be present to see and hear them playing live. There were six of them, the two main ones on zamponas (Rudolpho Choque) and charango (Hugo Gutturiez), and the other four were helping out as Andean bands often do for each other - the drummer was the son of a member of Los Chaskas. They played for an hour and a half and it was a time of pure heaven for me. Being so close as well - if I had leaned across the table I could almost touch the nearest musician. All through the evening I had been taking photos of the various things, leaving seven shots in the film for Kalamarka. After they finished the first act, they went backstage. I was tempted to follow them back there and ask for an autograph but didn't have enough nerve!

I enjoyed listening to more Andean music through loudspeakers for the next 15 minutes while waiting for Jorge to arrive and although feeling sorry that I would miss the second half of the concert I was so happy at having heard their music live for an hour and a half that I wasn't too worried.

Then Jorge arrived and when he approached my table, Rudolpho was delighted to see him, embraced him and sat at our table, so I got to meet him after all. I even got the greeting embrace when Jorge introduced me! During their conversation in Spanish which I was trying to understand, Rudolpho was saying how busy they were with various tours, with Germany and Scotland coming up - which is when I learned they would be doing a concert in Glasgow at the end of August but not London unfortunately. They were touring constantly as they were going back to France soon, which I think is where they are based most of the time. Even that night they had 8 hours travel to get to Cochabamba for their next concert. But Rudolpho said they would be free on either Monday or Tuesday and suggested we all meet for a drink. I was praying it would be Monday because my flight to Cusco was on Tuesday morning! Rudolpho also said they would be doing the second half of the concert real soon, would only be playing about 40 minutes and he urged Jorge to stay. I was so thrilled and Jorge seemed pleased that Rudolpho wanted him there. I got us both a drink and the second half was even more brilliant than the first and they played a lot longer than the 40 minutes but Jorge did not mind. When they did an encore at the end they played three or four more songs. Their concert finished about twenty to two in the morning but Jorge didn’t rush off even then as Rudolpho headed straight back to our table and chatted for another 15 minutes before we left. Afterwards Jorge told me that Rudolpho had said that Rumillajta had always been his inspiration. He was really thrilled at such a nice compliment.

Outside we found a taxi quite easily and I gave the driver enough to pay the fare to the appartment plus get Jorge to wherever he had to go as well. At the house he came to the gate, and once I unlocked it and got inside and he assured himself that I had locked it properly again, only then got back into the taxi and went home. I enjoyed his company so much - he was incredibly interesting to talk to, and he offered all kinds of suggestions of places to visit, and although he would not see me the next day due to work commitments he said he would phone at 5 pm and make definite arrangements for following days to visit some further away places. I think he was quite sorry that I only had four days left before my flight back to Cusco and I was sorry that I didn't get in touch with him a bit sooner once I arrived there. Jorge phoned in the morning that Saturday and arranged to meet me in Plaza Adela Zamudio at 10 am and first of all we went walking in the area so that he could show me some fantastic views over the city. We took some photos and then took a bus to the Valley of the Moon and had a really fantastic time. Just walking there, enjoying the view, the lovely warm weather - the sky was so blue it didn't look real - taking photos - it was marvellous.

Then we took another bus and went to a zoo there and that was great too. We spent quite a bit of time watching the condors and I enjoyed the llamas as well. They are such cute looking animals - I felt like giving them a big cuddle, but Jorge said to beware as they might spit. Then we took another bus to a place to enjoy some typical Bolivian food - where they had a buffet style menu so that we could select different things. That was excellent and luckily they took Visa so I could treat Jorge to that as a thank you for such a great morning. From there we went back to town and I went to his studio there. That was exciting especially when he played me all the songs that are ready for the forthcoming Rumillajta CD (and he promised to send me a copy of the CD when it was ready as well). About 4 pm he had to work as some ladies arrived for a recording session but even then he did not leave me on my own - he arranged for Adrian’s nephew (the one who took Adrian’s place in the Rumillajta band) to take me to the nearest Lloyd Air Boliviano office to reconfirm my ticket - but when we got there the office was closed! On the way he showed the the Rumillajta instrument shop near San Francisco, and I bought a pretty waistcoat in a shop near there, and when I told him I needed a few things he took me to a market where I was able to buy milk, chicken, bread and more of those fantastic yoghurt drinks.

By this time I just had enough time to get a taxi back to the house as Adrian had arranged to collect me at 5.30. When he arrived he gave me my Kjarkas ticket explaining that the concert had completely sold out a few days previously but that he had managed to get one ticket for a slightly higher price. He took me to where the concert would take place and when we got there the queue was about a mile long going round and round and round so that you could not see where the end of it was! We got in the queue and he left me for five minutes and when he came back told me to go with him as he had managed to persuade a policeman to let me go in right at the front of the queue. I was so amazed and delighted. I was really lucky because the venue was completely circled by police with alsation dogs so that no one could jump the queue. We arranged that he would pick me up outside at midnight. Luckily for me when he came to pick me up he told me I wasn’t dressed warmly enough and he told me to put on some warmer clothes (I had not realised it would be an outdoor concert). I had on two sweaters, two cardigans, the new knitted waistcoat, my warm Peruvian coat, a scarf and knitted hat. Once inside I was seated by 6.30pm, with the concert due to start an hour later. The place was already getting full and I got a good seat about a third of the way back central to the stage. I felt so happy and excited with such a fantastic evening in store in such a nice setting. It was just getting dark and the lights were appearing all around and the sense of anticipation was tremendous. It was quite cold as darkness fell and all those extra clothes were only just enough to keep me warm - the hat made a big difference - I could see why so many people wore them.

The concert began at 7.30 with a band from Ecuador - although the screen said Gracias Hermanos Ecuatorianos, I think their name was something like Manana Maniachi. Then to my amazement (as I knew other artistes were performing) the Kjarkas came on next… and wow, what a fantastic band. I enjoyed their playing so much and recognised all the songs and they played for about three quarters of an hour before introducing an artiste from Chile, one of the Parra family, I think her name was Carnelita or something like that. After that Los kjarkas again... They played for about four hours off and on, and Eva Ayllon also joined them for a while. Being part of that crowd sharing the enjoyment of listening to such a brilliant band was a magical experience that I will never forget. At the end they did about 6 encores altogether. Even though it rained at times during the evening it did not spoil people’s enjoyment. The whole crowd joined in with the words to some of the songs, were swaying as one with the music, it was an incredible atmosphere and the best live concert of my whole life. Also here and there fireworks were let off, before and after each artiste.

KjarkasOnce outside afterwards at 11.30 I thought I would have a long wait for Adrian till midnight, so stood by a few policemen where I felt a bit safer (with 10,000 people pouring out the gates) and they were very friendly and nice. But I only had to wait ten minutes and Adrian arrived with his family, including Maria his girlfriend and it was lovely to meet them all. All six of us squeezed into a taxi and they took me home, Adrian ensuring I was safely inside before getting back in the taxi and heading off home. He was so pleased at my reaction to the concert, delighted that I had enjoyed it so much, and I was so grateful to him for making it possible. I don't know how much trouble it took him to get me that ticket.

Arrival in La Paz.

Soon enough we were through passport control and I collected my luggage and the first person I saw as I left the luggage area was Adrian, who I recognised from his photo on my Atahualpa (Rumillajta) CD cover, even before seeing the placard he was holding with my name on it. He handed me two lovely variegated carnations and said ‘Welcome to Bolivia’ and I was really charmed at such courtliness.

There was a cambio counter nearby so I changed some travelers-cheques for some Bolivian money as I did not have any and had already learned the hard way in Peru that if you pay in dollars you pay a lot more as they up the price! We took the airport bus and again my suitcase was slung on top without being secured, there being no room in the bus, and feeling a bit shy I did not do more than express the hope it would be okay! I wanted to pay our fares but he would not let me and then produced a beautifully wrapped present - to my delighted surprise - and when I opened it, it was his band - Kallawaya’s latest CD called Vuelo Corazon - I was really thrilled to bits because I had been trying for the past 14 months to get an earlier CD of theirs called Kallawaya Fiesta, without success.

The drive towards La Paz was very interesting with Adrian pointing out places of interest on the way. Being higher up it was much colder here and all the mountains around were snow covered (and in fact Adrian said they had recently had snow in the town, it being winter there at that moment). The majestic highest mountain called Illimani looked incredible in the background and in fact every time through high buildings since then when I caught a glimpse of it, the beauty of it was really stunning. I took a few photos from the bus as we descended into the canyon in which La Paz is nestled and whenever the bus stopped to let anyone off or on, Adrian leaned out the window to make sure my case was still there. When we were in the busy part of town and had to keep stopping I was quite anxious in case anyone snatched the case, which was a distinct possibility. Eventually we got off and straight onto another bus and thereafter shortly arrived at our destination.

I was staying in the huge appartment at Kallawaya's recording studio, which is the whole second floor of an enormous two-storey house. The Kallawaya musician who normally lived here was away in Japan, I think organising the next Kallawaya tour in Japan this coming November. As in Peru, property there had to be heavily secured and the house was surrounded by a very high wall topped with broken glass, and above that the spikes going in two directions, therefore impossible to climb over. Similarly the gate to get into the property was a very high metal barred one, heavily secured with deadbolt and padlocks. And to make sure, once inside the front door was triple deadlocked. With all this in mind I felt highly honoured to be able to stay in such a place, with my own set of keys, in such a nice appartment which had several bedrooms, a huge lounge and adjoining dining room, bathroom and kitchen and a nice area off the kitchen enclosed in glass full of potted plants (the first thing I did was water them as they all looked as though they were gasping for a drink!) as well as the recording studio itself.

This excellent accommodation was all arranged for me by Jacco, my Bolivian friend in Dallas, Adrian being one of his best friends, and I couldn’t thank him enough, not just for organising such excellent accommodation but also for being able to meet and be looked after by an ex member of Rumillajta, now an integrant of the new band Kallawaya (although Rumillajta are still going strong and I would also be meeting Rumillajta’s charango player, Jorge Laura, later in the week with whom I’d been exchanging letters since Christmas.

The first day I spent quietly resting which was the quickest way to get acclimatised to the even higher altitude without feeling discomfort. Adrian left me to unpack and rest and came back later with some provisions and then left me in the evening with a promise to come back early in the morning. He lived high up on the hillside, quite a distance from there. I could see the canyon walls from the window and decided to go exploring next day as the studio was right near the centre of things. I did not venture out that night as I could hear a lot of dogs - it proved to be even worse there in that aspect than in Peru - but it wouldn’t stop me going off to explore next day! So I spent the evening quietly, listening to the brilliant Kallawaya CD he had given me and getting settled in. In the lounge there was a great hi fi system - although unfortunately no turntable so I could not play the Rumillajta LP called Ayni (one I haven’t got), which was among the LPs, tapes and CDs alongside it.

The next morning Adrian phoned and said he would be with me in half an hour with my breakfast! I kept busy while I awaited him by sweeping the beautiful parquet floors which were dusty as the appartment has been unlived in for a while, plus I swept all the dust from the surfaces, including all the instruments strewn around (Adrian had workshops making Andean instruments as well as his work as a musician). The breakfast was really delicious - he brought some Bolivian pastries filled with cheese and then made me a really frothy milkshake with apple and banana, which was really delicious. I would definitely make that for myself thereafter as there was a lady selling fruit right on the corner near the house. After that he said he was going to one of the workshops and that I was very welcome to go with him to which I readily agreed. We went on a series of buses as it was quite far away - you would never believe how many people they can pack into those little buses - if someone wants to get out, a load have to get off and then get back on again as there is no room between seats.

As we walked towards the workshop we were almost attacked by two dangerous looking dogs who came running towards us. Adrian had to pick up a stone and pretend to throw it before they backed off, growling quite menacingly and I was terrified and trying to circle around Adrian nearly fell over backwards as in the panic forgot the state of the roads! We got into the workshop without problem though and Adrian said to be very careful as many of the dogs, including those two outside, were very dangerous. Not a very comforting thought if one went wandering off away from the busier parts of the city centre areas!

It was very interesting in the workshop where four men were busy making charangos by hand - great to see the different processes and the different sizes of charangos all in different stages of construction. Adrian pointed to a big pile of wood in the corner and said a load of charangos would eventually be made of that. I took a few photos in there, including a couple of Adrian himself and before we left one of the workers took a picture of me with Adrian with the others. From there we went walking - quite a long walk, up steep hills, down others, up more steep hills - and I mean steep - La Paz is all up and down, hardly any streets level, and I coped amazingly without any problem (but was really glad I took it so easy the previous night as it might have been a different story otherwise). After that we went by bus back to the centre and Adrian left me here, promising to phone me at the house at 4 pm and again at 5 pm if I was not back by then. That morning we had discussed ideas of what to see, and I was very sorry to learn that it was not possible to go to Puno and the Isla del Sol as no one could travel into the countryside because the transport people were on strike. He said it would take three days to do that trip properly, even if we could get there, and that it was only possible to get a boat across to the island at weekends - the problem being that the coming Saturday night was the big Kjarkas concert which I also didn't want to miss. If it had not been for the transport problem, we could have just squeezed the trip in and got back in time for Saturday’s concert. Adrian also suggested flying to Sucre, which used to be the capital of Bolivia and is a really beautiful place - if I went there I could have stayed with his musician friend there - a member of a band called Los Masis - by whom I have one cassette at home. I was tempted but decided in the end to give it a miss as the flights each way were quite expensive.

I was looking forward like mad to Saturday’s concert - it was the 30th anniversary concert of Los Kjarkas - amazing to think they have been famous all that time and are still so well loved. Everywhere in Peru I heard their music being played on radios etc - much preferable to the Peruvian pop music that was also so popular. I heard from Elva again that day who said the roads were no good to travel on and for me to get a flight from Cusco to Arequipa and that she would come to meet me there. This was so kind of her, as it is five and a half hours in a bus to get there from Ilo. I decided to await my return to Cusco before booking the flight and thus save the business of having to reconfirm the flight. I could then phone Elva and let her know the time and date of my arrival which would be a couple of days before my birthday. I was amazed whilst in La Paz to learn that Adrian’s birthday was 8th of July, the same as mine and also the same as Jacco's.

La Paz Street SellerAfterwards we walked for ages trying to find an address where he was buying a charango case and I was really pleased that I could cope so well with all that hill climbing. I didn't notice any difference than if I was back home. It must have been all that coca tea I was drinking, which was a really delicious herbal tasting tea - pity we couldn’t get it in England - and I could not take any home without the risk of ending up in prison! The one thing that did bother me during the day though was the amount of loose dogs, sometimes three or four together, and most of them unfriendly or downright dangerous. While I was with Adrian I felt a bit safer especially as he fended off those two dangerous ones near his workshop. Around the middle of the day he took me back to the centre and left me by the post office as I had letters to post and emails to write and he told me which bus to get back on and where to get it, and also where there was a supermarket fairly close to home.

So I happily went into the Internet cafe and ended up spending four hours in there as I had the long one to everyone to write plus answer a few others. So I didn't actually get to see much of La Paz that first day. When I came out later and after posting the letters, I waited a while for a bus but the traffic was hardly moving and I was still worried in case I got the wrong one as they didn't seem to have numbers on them. A taxi came along and I got in and asked him to take me to Plaza Espana where the supermarket was. Adrian had advised me to get off there and then walk to the appartment as it was not too far. When we arrived at Plaza Espana I asked the driver which direction it was to Plaza Adela Zamudio and he said it was quite far and drove on! So I walked back to Plaza Espana, all the while wondering if it was a wise thing to do as I passed quite a few dogs and had to keep crossing the road to avoid them. One sneaked right up behind me and I nearly died of fright, but luckily didn't bother me. After the shopping, I started walking back but because of the dogs I kept looking to see if a taxi was coming, thinking it was well worth 3 bolivianos just to get back safely even if it was only a short distance. In the taxi I wasn't taking note of the route and when he went all down a street right to the end, where the road disappeared into the canyon if you were unwise enough to continue (!) and said that was the name of the road I had given him (as written on paper by Adrian), I had not recognised we were in the right road. He turned round and two dogs that were resting nearby leapt up snarling and barking and ran after the taxi after it had turned round. This frightened me enough, but then we drove right along that road to the plaza and I could not find the house (I did not know the number) and every time we stopped to check one that looked familiar it wasn't the right one, and we came to the end and I had no choice but to get out.

I started walking back down that road and suddenly a dog appeared and ran towards me snarling and barking and I really did nearly die of fright this time. I am sure it was only the two shopping bags that saved me from being bitten and I managed to back away to the plaza without tripping over backwards - yet again I didn't even remember the state the roads are sometimes in, I was so overcome with fright! Back in the plaza I didn't know what to do and was in a terrible panic and by that time crying as well. I was too scared to go back into that road to look for the house and too scared to linger in the plaza either as by this time it was getting dark. A guardian angel must have been looking out for me because next moment a man was backing out of his drive in his car and saw my distress and came to my aid. When I explained the problem and showed him the paper with the road name etc on, which also had Adrian’s phone number, he said the best thing to do would be to ring that number. He rang on my behalf at a nearby cake shop and spoke to someone but not Adrian, and whoever it was did not know the house number either. So he then suggested I get in his car and he would drive really slowly down the road and that I could take my time but that with his help we would find it. I was so unbelievably grateful for his kindness and when we found the house, he waited in his car until I got the complicated locks undone and the gate open and was inside, before driving away. I wished later that I could remember exactly where in the square he lived because I would have liked to knock on his door and thank him again. Without his help I don't know what I would have done. When I got inside I was so relieved and at first was okay. I put some music on and started cooking but about half an hour later - it must have been delayed shock or something - but I was trembling all over, crying again, and if I could have taken flight away from La Paz I would have done so that night. The person I most longed to run to was Elva in Ilo - she became such a wonderful friend while I was there - and I would have given anything to be with her that night!

However, next morning I was okay when I got up. That was yesterday and this was another day and although I was convinced the previous night that my agenda that day would be to look for a Lloyd Air Boliviano office and change my ticket for a flight to Arequipa, I thought differently when I woke up. I decided that I would check to see what number the house was before going out and would pay the taxi driver double to wait until I got the gate open and got inside. When Adrian phoned shortly after and said he was on his way over I felt happier still. When he arrived he said he was taking me to El Alto and I left with him happily, full of anticipation of seeing another place outside La Paz. It was only about 20 minutes later that I remembered I forgot to look at the house number, so hoped I wouldn't have similar problems that night! I decided I would make sure I got back in daylight and that any shopping would be done in the centre so that I could get all the way home in one taxi without getting out and being vulnerable to dogs again!

Exploring Cusco.

On the way to the restaurants surrounding Plaza des Armas, we came across a street seller and I bought another jacket, this time one for me and then another seller produced the beautiful baby alpaca wall hangings and was selling them incredibly cheaply - I bought three for the same price as I had paid the previous evening just for one - two the same size and one circular smaller one, about 2 foot six in diameter. I decided thereafter that I would only buy from street sellers and avoid all the shops, the savings being so great, plus I had to be careful to ensure I did not run out of money.

We found a nice restaurant, me opting to go for that one because I could hear an Andean band playing inside. I really enjoyed that band too, and at one point a group of three dancers in costume joined in one of their songs. It was great and there was a CD on offer but they wanted 50 soles for it so I declined, as I had already decided to pay for the meal as it was quite expensive. I wanted something different so opted for Alpaca and I enjoyed it very much - it tasted far better than the juiciest lamb steak, was served up medium to medium rare and a real treat. After that we had to get back as we had prearranged with Danielo that we would be back by 10 pm and we only just got back in time.

On my last day during that first visit to Cusco we went to Plaza des Armas again - I wanted to climb that hill towards Sacsayhauman just far enough to capture those glorious views of Cusco below us in a series of photos but in the end there was not enough time. Amazingly apart from that first day I coped with the altitude there brilliantly - I never even noticed the difference with all that hill climbing the previous day even though Sacsayhuaman is several hundred feet higher even than Cusco itself. I decided that upon my next visit in July I would revisit that sacred fortress and feel the magic of the place without the thousands of people there. You really did get a sense of how sacred that ground was, a feeling of pure and happy well-being.

Down the Hill to CuscoI was very relieved and happy that day as well to finally have news of my friends in Ilo. First of all, they phoned and spoke to Alfredo while I was in the shower in the morning and were happy to know I was okay and assured Alfredo that all was well with them. Then whilst having breakfast there was satellite news on television with people being interviewed in Arequipa and I was amazed to see Hugito and he actually spoke and said how worried he was about his parents and family in Ilo. Later on we spoke on the phone (as I suddenly remembered he had a cellular phone) and he was able to assure me that he had heard from his parents that morning and that they were safe and well. And when I got to the Internet cafe later, I was overjoyed to find a reply to my emails - that they were safe and well and even the house was okay. I was so relieved as according to what we saw on television, people were without electricity or water, many very hungry as they had no money on them when the disaster occurred, and emergency supplies were being sent to help people cope. There was even a video of the earthquake as it happened in Arequipa and it did look worse there than what we encountered in Cusco. Roads were shown covered in huge boulders so I was not even sure whether I would be able to go back to Ilo on 5 July as planned as it seemed unlikely the roads would be passable that soon.

Our first plan that day was to go and drink the popular favourite Peruvian tipple called CHICHA, made from fermented maize, which despite being in Peru for two weeks I had not yet tried! We got a taxi and instead of getting off in the centre as usual, we went through some really narrow streets to a part of town that no foreigner with any sense would be unwise enough to venture, and we went to a typical chicha bar which also served food. I opted for the frutillada version, which also has strawberries, added to the fermentation and it was really delicious, almost like a milkshake and you had to keep shaking the glass to keep the froth foaming. We enjoyed two pints and then called it a day as Alfredo said that drink is really potent and catches you unawares if you have too many. I did not fancy any of the food on offer as it was mainly beef dishes so we decided to look for a restaurant or cafe which offered either Rocoto Relleno, Adobe de Chancho, Alpaca steak or Sopa de Gallina, these four being my favourites of everything tried until then. Before leaving the chicha bar I went to the loo which was in the kitchen. That was the second time I have been in such kitchens - our Environmental Health Inspectors would faint on the spot! Live squawking chickens underfoot, blackened pots on ancient stoves etc. None of that put me off though - Peruvian food was so incredibly delicious that one overlooked any shortcomings and hoped the actual cooking process would destroy any germs!!! We searched for a while for a place selling my favourite dishes but none of those visited had any of them.

On the way we came across a crowd lining both sides of a street as a marching Andean (panpipe and bombo) band and colourful dancers were going by - we only watched for about five minutes though as this was a rough part of town and some of the crowd were rowdy and both Alfredo and I sensed menace in the air. He drew me away and said it was too dangerous to linger and although we were a long way from the centre we started walking in that direction. I carried my rucksack in front with both arms firmly clasped around it, my camera round my neck and tucked well down inside my clothing out of sight (even my shirt collar turned inside out over the strap to keep that hidden) and my money belt tucked well down inside my trousers. Alfredo walked behind me to make sure I came to no harm and it was a long walk down narrow streets with little shops each side and I stopped at one of them and bought ginger and garlic so that I had all the necessary spices to take to Bolivia. I tried to look really nonchalent, as if walking in such places was a regular thing for me, and it was either that or Alfredo's presence behind me but no one bothered me and one or two sellers even smiled as I passed. Whenever I had to turn left or right Alfredo said so behind me. There was an occasional police presence so that helped a little - one by the marching band which probably enabled us to get away from there without incident and we passed one more before we came to the next big market. This one looked a lot more dangerous than the one where I had bought my poncho and even though there was traffic as well - walking in the road being hazardous as the standard of driving is horrific - there was no way I was going to walk on the pavements behind those stalls where I would have been far more vulnerable to attack. I expect people reading my emails wondered why I loved it there so much with so many dangers for the unwary. None of that, even the wandering scavenging dogs, put me off. The beauty of the place, the warmth and loveliness of most of the people (there are bad elements in every country, and that in Peru was probably more due to desperation and poverty), the joyfulness of life there even while poverty was all around, all this worked its magic on me and made me really glad I went. I was so grateful to Alfredo to have seen real Peruvian life despite the risks. I would not have gone 10 paces in such places alone without being robbed or attacked and although I felt some unease I had every faith in Alfredo's protection - such a lovely man, a gentleman through and through.

Having tried a few places we eventually came upon the restaurant where Aquiles celebrated his birthday when he was there in February. We chose a platter of Lechon, Rocoto Relleno, salad, rice and chips - Lechon being the name of the delicious roast pork dish we had at Sacsaywaman the day before, although this Peruvian version was not as tasty as the one purchased from the Bolivian lady at Sacsaywaman. After that we continued on our way to the centre taking some photos along the way. It was cooler than usual with only spasmodic sunshine, very cloudy and a chill breeze - the worst day since I had been here really as pretty well every day was sunny and warm - an incredible contrast to the night-time - during the day you can walk around in camisole tops but the conditions are wintry at night and if you knew you would still be out at nightfall you needed warm clothes for later. That is why I had two Peruvian knitted hats - forgetting to take the first one with me one evening - they really did keep you warm.

Being back in Plaza des Armas it was very different without the nonstop fiesta taking place every day since I arrived, but it was still a great place to be all the same - lovely Andean music still evident, either from musicians playing in restaurants or from loudspeakers of shops selling CDs - And my goodness, I could have spent a fortune on the CDs. Whilst in the plaza we went into the second smaller Cathedral, a beautiful Jesuit one, and it was incredibly beautiful, with wonderful wall murals and paintings and heavy use of intricately carved wood and gold plate. After the cathedral we went to a nearby craft fair to look around. I dearly wanted to buy the 4-part CD rom of Cusco, Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Inti Raymi, everything - all interactive - and a great price at only 20 soles, only to discover it could only be played on a PC - there was no Apple Mac version. From there we went to a coffee shop in the plaza where artists, poets and authors congregated and enjoyed some delicious coffee there. The coffee in Cusco was about the richest and best I had ever tasted and was made in a funny looking metal contraption. You then poured about an inch of coffee concentrate into your cup and topped it up with boiling water.

By this time we were feeling peckish again so decided to see what set menus were on offer - these were really excellent value at around 10 soles each although finding one with the right combination was a challenge. People in Cusco love their beef and there were various specialities such as stuffed cow’s heart, which I only had to see on a menu to give that place a wide berth! As we neared one restaurant the owner was outside trying to get people to look at his menu and I stopped to look and he was such a nice charming man that I wanted to go in there even though none of the things we were looking for were on the menu! It was more European style. However, Alfredo wanted to check out a few more so we went on our way, with me promising we would come back on another day.

Not long after we found one which had Alpaca steak among the main course choices and a soup quite similar to Gallina among the starters so went in and the meal was excellent. There were two Dutch men on the next table - well one was probably another nationality as they were talking in English and when I realised they were there to learn Spanish and do voluntary work I asked for some details. It certainly sounds a great thing to do for people who have just finished their studies like them, before they start a working career. They were living in host families, attending Spanish classes the first few weeks and would then go on to do voluntary work. With accommodation and food provided, what a great way to experience a country like those in South America. People from all over the world were attending those classes, including loads from North America.

When we left the restaurant we only got a few yards down the road when we came to an open door and I could see a man playing the harp in a cafe and came to a skidding halt! We went in as the lady said we could just go in to listen if we wanted. The harp player who was quite old was really charming and nice and I had a photo taken with him and made one or two requests and then when I bought some Cusqueña beers I bought him one as well, much to his delight. Altogether we stayed listening for about half an hour before looking for a taxi home. We got back about 10 pm and I then went to bed as I wanted to pack my case ready for the morning, having set my alarm for 6 am so that I would have plenty of time to get ready.

When we flagged down a taxi next morning to take us to the airport, the driver slung my suitcase onto the roof rack of his small vehicle without even securing it, to which I loudly protested and had it alongside me on the back seat instead, agreeing readily to the higher than usual fare (I always paid all our travel expenses as well as around two thirds of meals and other expenses). The state of Peruvian roads I doubted if the case would have stayed on until the first bend!!! We arrived at the airport two hours before the La Paz flight.

It was quite a slow process checking in - one long queue to check in the luggage and then another long one to pay the 10 dollars airport tax. After that we had about three quarters of an hour to walk about, looking at souvenirs etc. I bought a lovely Texas style hat with Peruvian design on it, which for once was a hat that did not look too bad on me, or send me into hysterics if I took a look in a mirror! At 10 am I headed for the departure lounge, once Alfredo had ascertained it was okay for me to go through. We said our goodbyes and I gave him a fierce hug and kiss on the cheek to which he reciprocated and I promised to phone him and let him know I arrived okay.

When I went through the Xray machine it pealed loudly and I had to be checked thoroughly to see what it was - it turned out to be the metal rivets each side on my beige cotton around the neck passport holder. Both my bags were then thoroughly checked - which is not a bad thing as there is always the danger that someone might slip something into your hand luggage - you have to be really vigilant to make sure they don't - there are posters everywhere to warn people and a hefty prison sentence for anyone caught carrying drugs.

The plane coming in from La Paz was late arriving so by the time those passengers and their luggage disembarked we were late boarding the plane, with take off about a half hour later than that scheduled. I had a window seat right at the back of the plane, which is the best place to be in the event of a crash with more chance of surviving, although the wing obscured a good chunk of the view out of the window. I was very impressed with that airline though - although a relatively short flight we were all served an excellent meal and choice of drinks. All we got on the Lan Peru Arequipa to Cusco flight was a glass of Inka Cola!

As always I thoroughly enjoyed the take off and the wonderful vista below as we left Cusco behind and headed into the mountains - but sad to say after ten minutes or so we flew into clouds and could not see much. By the time I looked later after the meal and filling out disembarkation cards, we were flying over what looked like a vast plain surrounded by snow capped mountains and then we were descending towards La Paz itself and I took a few pictures until we hit the ground, even though the wing obscured half the picture and the window was quite dirty.

Earthquake and Inti Raymi.

Inti RaymiI put the above in as a subhead as that was the day I spent one and a half hours writing the longest email yet, missing fiesta in the process only to lose the lot - the reason being a big earthquake that lasted nearly two minutes. All the lights and computers went off in the basement Internet cafe and everyone was so scared - literally frozen with fright as even though the lights came back on, no one thought to race for the stairs and escape outside… definitely one of the scariest moments in my life.

Alfredo came in just as I got to the compose stage of a second attempt at an email and he was really terrified too - he said outside people were running everywhere. He went back outside to look for Danielo and asked me to wait for him there - which was no problem as I was so behind in replying to emails waiting there indefinitely would not have been be a problem! Later I got Danielo's impressions and he said he was in the Plaza at the time and actually saw the buildings moving and was very afraid. Amazingly, although there was a few minutes panic, with people running everywhere, the procession of the fiesta - Cusco's special fiesta day of the year - carried on. And I must admit that I was amazed I could still hear the marching bands once I had recovered from the shock of the quake itself.

That morning we had to come in by bus, because the traffic being so congested in the centre none of the taxis wanted to go that way. The bus service in Peru is brilliant with one coming along every few seconds, but they are not like the buses back home - they are a series of Toyota vans and when packed get about 20 or more people in - I felt like a giant in there, the Peruvian people being so small! We got off before reaching the centre as I wanted to buy a poncho - that day being an enormous procession later in the day when every one in Cusco would don their poncho and join the procession. At the market Alfredo took off my watch and put it in his inside pocket and told me to go with care, as such markets are very dangerous. My camera was tucked down inside my clothing and he walked behind me to be sure I was okay. I tried on various ponchos but not liking any of them enough to pay the price asked until we came to a stall where I found one I loved even though it was not a long one nor had a llama design. It was a superb quality one and very expensive at 200 soles but I bargained and Alfredo bargained and we got it down to 140 soles with me offering only 110! After I walked to see what was on the next stall, the seller immediately dropped the price to 120 soles and I accepted with alacrity. Alfredo told me afterwards we had got a real bargain as it was of the very best quality. I put it on and proudly wore it thereafter.

We then came to a street, which was lined with various acts getting ready for the day’s procession. We stopped beside one band - about 20 panpipe players and 5 drummers from Puno and Alfredo took a picture of me amongst them and I bought one of their cassettes whilst with them. This band was beautifully dressed - later on in the procession I managed to capture a picture of most of them as they went by. Alfredo then saw a load of teachers who were going to be in the procession as well and asked if he could borrow my poncho and join in and we agreed that I would await him in the Internet cafe near where we were standing. He stayed with me for an hour though watching the various dancers and musicians go by before going off to join the other teachers. When they came by about half an hour later Alfredo was helping to carry the big banner and I managed to get a couple of pictures of him. I then went into the nearby Internet cafe which is where I was when the earthquake occurred - certainly one experience I had not been anticipating in Peru!

Once Alfredo and Danielo joined us we went to Super Pollo again - and from there spent a very pleasant evening in the centre of Cusco. Cusco's special fiesta day would continue until the early hours of the morning - too late for us to join in the procession - and we watched parts of it at times but kept moving as I wanted to look in more shops. In one shop I bought a lovely jacket as a present for Colin, and while we were making that purchase we heard the first news of the earthquake and that was when we learned that Arequipa and Moquegua were far worse affected than us in Cusco and I was really worried for the safety of my friends. We went next to a telephone shop but learned there that all the lines were down so I could not phone. I was really worried about them.

A bit later in another shop I fell in love with a baby Alpaca wall hanging and with all the bargaining in the world I could not get the price down much and in the end accepted the price (100 dollars) and paid for it by Visa (this translating into 340 soles) and even though the lines were down, after a multitude of attempts the seller finally got a reply and code for the Visa slip). I had also bought another knitted hat, a beautiful scarf with llama design and a textile rucksack (which proved very useful next day). We then walked to the next square where another fiesta and stage was in progress. On the stage a band were getting their equipment ready to play and we bought two large Cusqueña beers to drink and a Pepsi for Danielo and waited a while, but that first band were not playing Andean music so after finishing our beers we wandered off again. We eventually found a bus to get home in and I got off 3 blocks before home (having arranged for Danielo to come back and accompany me home) as I needed an hour an half in the local internet cafe to get in touch with various people, especially Hugo, Elva and Hugito. I was there until the cafe closed and Danielo was there before I had finished to accompany me home. A foreigner is safe there if accompanied by a Peruvian, even a young child.

Next day, Sunday, we were up early for the most important day in the Peruvian calender - Inti Raymi. Danielo went off even before we did as he was going there with a load of his friends, and after breakfast we set off ourselves and walked to the main road nearby to get a bus but I asked Alfredo how much it would cost in a taxi to get to Sacsayhuaman and he said he would find out and we flagged one down. Once Alfredo had bargained the price down from 20 to 10 soles we got in and I really enjoyed the ride up to Sacsayhuaman. The steep road winding up towards it was unpaved and such a poor surface that I would never risk any car of mine on it. As we climbed higher an incredible view of Cusco was laid out below us to our left and I would have loved to have stopped and take photos but reserved that pleasure for another occasion.

As we approached the fortress, there was a roadblock and every vehicle, even taxis and buses had to pay 5 soles to get past. Whether the policeman standing by was a real one or not I didn't know, but I felt sorry for the taxi driver having to pay 5 out of the 10 soles he was getting from us and would have liked to pay it but Alfredo said no. From this point on there were hundreds of people walking, pushing barrows etc with their wares, a lot being people who refused to pay the 5 soles! We got out of the taxi at the entrance to the fortress and from there until the fortress itself, were lines of people cooking on roadside stoves as far as the eye could see, really delicious looking things available and although we had just had breakfast we tucked into a plate of Bolivian roast pork with onions, chillis and sauce which was really delicious.

After that we walked as far as the point where we had to start climbing and just before we got there I saw a portable loo and decided to go in there as we had a four hour wait ahead of us before the ceremony would even begin! For some reason I was not allowed to go in so Alfredo pointed to a nearby gully - and we both fell about laughing at the mere thought. Luckily there was another one before we started climbing. And what a climb! One side of the fortress area is free for all the public to enjoy this ritual ceremony, and people had obviously been arriving for hours as it was not easy to find a place. Finally we found a rock and sat precariously on it, high on the hillside, with an excellent view. It was really difficult for us both to perch in such an uncomfortable spot, although the warm clothes I had brought for later helped cushion the hard cold surface and there were ledges to put our feet so that we wouldn't fall off. After about an hour Alfredo climbed a bit lower to a grassy area and lay down and went to sleep. The ledge was then a much more comfortable place to be and I made myself quite comfortable in the end.

Countless Peruvian and Bolivian families surrounded us and every one was in a happy mood and looking forward to the ceremony. I felt really good being in such a sacred place, had a real wonderful sense of well being there, being surrounded by the Peruvians and Bolivians that I love so much, it was great. Although in the end we had not taken any food with us (apart from a litre of beer and a big bottle of coke) we certainly did not go hungry, as there were sellers with all kinds of things going by all day. I had a superb view and was therefore really dismayed when at the last moment a tour guide arrived with a party of Germans who took up the spaces that had been reserved by some Peruvian children. They really took over, standing up and blocking everyone's view with their camcorders and people were muttering with annoyance. When I heard the tour guide speak to a couple of people in English, I said that everyone else present had been waiting for hours in order to have a good view and that it was not fair for them to come at the last minute and spoil it for everyone else! After that they were more reasonable and only popped up here and there to take their photos, which nobody minded. I managed to get a nice series of photos of the first part of the ceremony and was glad later that I did, and it was really wonderful - the accompanying music, the solemn speaking in the ancient Incan language, the costumes, the soldiers on the hillside, arrival of the Inca king etc was really wonderful to see.

Then another party came along and stood up and blocked the view of hundreds if not thousands of people by standing up and obscuring the central part where the main ceremony was taking place. Despite all the pleading by the nearby Peruvians who were very polite and did not lose their tempers, all these people did was look around in disdain and carry on standing. It was unbelievable that people could be so insensitive! People were eventually pelting them with orange peel and other small missiles, still to no avail.

Such an event could have ruined the whole thing, but although I could not see anything thereafter apart from what was going on around the edges, I concentrated on the music and the atmosphere of the ceremony itself and still enjoyed it immensely. It started at 2 pm and went on until 4.30 pm, when everyone descended to the arena area itself. There I bought a video off one seller thinking it was of the Inti Raymi ceremony but later discovered it was one showing Cusco and surrounding areas, including Sacsayhuaman itself, so I was still pleased with it, and would look for a another of Inti Raymi ceremony. I wantedd that for the music alone and would even get the CD as well. I also had my photo taken with some llamas and with another Sicuri group from Puno called the Aymaras. I loved those bands… dozens of people playing zamponas of different sizes along with several others on bombo drums. It was really atmospheric!

At 5 pm there was a series of dances on the actual place of the Inca throne and these were brilliant - we managed to stand almost in the front and have a good view. The sun was going down by this time and I had to wait for it to disappear behind the hillside before I could take any photos and they still came out too dark! After seeing about four of the dance displays we went back to where the sicuri bands were - three different ones, mostly from Puno - and people were following the Aymaras so we joined the throng, and from there we all went down the hillside and what a long time that took - the terrain was quite treacherous with big steps or downward gullies really steep where you had to concentrate with all your might to be sure not to lose your footing. This got worse as it got darker and you could not see the steps or pitfalls and at one point I had to move in front of Alfredo because some one could not keep his hands to himself behind me - eventually I realised who the culprit was as he did it again and I caught him in the act this time and flipped him on the ear and told him off! He looked quite alarmed! At least he left me alone after that.

It took about 25 minutes to get all the way down the hillside to the road and I was mightily relieved to make it without stumbling as if one person had stumbled and careened into the ones in front it could have caused a catastrophe - there being quite steep drops on the left hand side in places. When we hit the road progress was slow as there was traffic, which could not move because of the dense throng of people making their way back down to Cusco. Eventually we reached a point where we could leave the road and descend a cobbled street with paved pavement and on the way down I realised after a while that someone behind me was trying to get the zip undone in the side pocket on the left thigh of my trousers and yelled out to Alfredo who was in front and said loudly in Spanish that there was a robber behind me - which luckily scared off whoever it was - and I had no idea whether my money was still there or not and had to wait until we got down to Cusco centre itself to find out. Luckily the robber had only got the zip half open and my money was still there when I looked later on. Arriving back in Cusco centre we spent a very pleasant evening. We looked in a few more shops and then found a bar in a side street and decided to go in for a drink and sat at a table with a litre bottle of cusqueña to share and we spent a very pleasant hour or two in there. We had bought newspapers on arrival in Cusco centre and both were avidly reading them to get news of events in Arequipa - it was only then that I realised the earthquake had reached 7.9 on the Richter scale and that the duration was 1 minute and 15 seconds.

After that we chatted - my Spanish improved even more whilst with Alfredo as unless I got the pronunciation exactly right he did not understand what I said! We had a good laugh though, especially when our bottle was empty and Alfredo suggested I get the one he had been carrying around all day out of the bag and swop it for the empty one!!! Luckily I had bought a brass bottle opener in the shape of a tumi a couple of days previously from one of the street sellers. By the time we had finished both bottles we were feeling quite merry and very hungry so decided to go and find a nice place to eat. Whilst in that sidestreet cafe I had felt slightly uneasy though as there were about 6 men drinking at another table and when Alfredo went off to the loo they kept trying to talk to me but I kept my eyes averted in the opposite direction and ignored them. I was afraid that when we left they might follow but luckily they did not. I was glad to get back to a more central spot though. I voiced my misgivings to Alfredo and he said it would be very dangerous for me to be in a place like that alone, but with him I was perfectly safe. I really was lucky that Aquiles’ Dad was such a great host and tour guide - many of the things I had seen and done there I could not have done without him.