Ever since last Thursday it has been so
hectic that I didn't have a single moment for visiting
internet cafes - much to my regret because reading my
messages tonight was confirmation from a friend in
Lima about the venue of the Savia Andina concert which
is not just Savia Andina but Kala Marka as well, two
fantastic bands from Bolivia. When I couldn't find out
the venue earlier in the week I decided in the end to
give Lima a miss until just before I fly home, and
came earlier to Cusco instead. I travelled with Imexo,
a new bus company, who are brilliant. The bus actually
left on time at 8.30 and arrived 10 minutes early at
3.20 this afternoon - this is unheard of normally, as
most buses depart at least an hour later than
scheduled and often arrive up to two hours later! A
bit of a pain when there are people awaiting its
arrival.
Exiting the internet cafe last Thursday the sun was
shining so I was eager to get into town for various
reasons but when I mentioned this to Rita and Agustin
they would not hear of me going alone, even in a taxi.
Agustin said that even taking a taxi alone is
dangerous as there are now many taxi drivers in Puno
who have arrived from big cities like Lima and
Juliaca, who have given the whole taxi business a bad
name, people being abducted, robbed etc.
We had a pleasant morning in town, visiting the feria,
a huge area of market artesania stalls in a school
building and playground in one of the plazas. I bought
a few souvenirs and also we were looking for a dvd of
Candelaria 2005 featuring me dancing but only managed
to find one after watching three versions with a brief
sighting of me. Agustin said it as a mistake having me
right out the front behind the first banner holder
because we were so strewn out that the photographer
jumped from the previous event - the brilliant Bella
Vista diablada troupe, straight to the band and missed
me out altogether. Perhaps I wasn't dancing at that
moment, but all the same it was a disappointment not
to feature much in the dvd and video which has now
gone on sale nationally and shortly internationally as
well. Agustin said that next year they would put me
directly in front of the group, between them and the
main dancers.
After this we went for a delicious trout lunch in a
garden restaurant, very nice because the sun was
shining warmly. The climate in Puno is generally cold,
even now in summer time due to the altitude. Even when
the sun is shining there is a cold breeze at times and
when the sun goes down .... brrrr! I had to buy some
quite ugly looking knitted socks to keep my feet and
legs warm when going out at night - something I
wouldn't be seen dead in at home but very necessary in
Puno's cold climate.
After lunch Rita went home because they have a little
nursery in their home and Rita looks after children
and they had one arriving early that afternoon. But
Agustin stayed with me and suggested we went to visit
Abel, another Huj Maya, who works in the film
industry, to see if he could locate a better version
of Candelaria 2005 with more than just that brief
sighting of me. When we reached his house I realised
it was very close to Javi's home and said I would like
to pop in and say hello and pick up a few more
necessities from my suitcase being stored there, and
as Abel had to get ready we agreed that they would
both call for me at Javi's house as soon as Abel was
ready.
I then spent a very pleasant hour with Javi and his
family, and was especially glad I had called in and
thus seen his Mum one last time, because she had been
called back to work a day early and would be leaving
next morning and be away until Sunday - she works as a
nurse in a town quite far from Puno and is often away
for days at a time. Abel and Agustin arrived and his
Mum made refreshments and we spent a very pleasant
hour listening to music and I was delighted when Javi
presented me with another 8 CDs. When we left, Javi
and I agreed to meet at 10 am the next day, that being
the last time I would see him during my Puno visit as
he was off to Moho on Friday afternoon for the whole
weekend. He plays in a band there and the band were
part of a parade and fiesta taking part there on
saturday.
Behind Javi's house is an amazing view of Lake
Titicaca and the whole town, with a huge statue of
Inca Pachacutec and at Abel's suggestion we went to
take photos. I was delighted to see that Abel had come
armed with his digital camera and he took several with
various views over lake and town and afterwards we
walked on foot back down into town where yet more
parades were going on and we watched some of it before
going to have dinner where I chose one of Peru's most
famous soups, Caldo de Gallina, which arrived in the
largest bowl I have ever seen and even defeated me as
I could only manage half of it. Then back to the
parade and Abel took photos of me with various dancers
passing by in the parade, with diablada dancers, saya
dancers, morenada dancers etc. My favourite of all the
dances is the diablada where young men in amazing
costumes leap high into the air whilst dancing. How
those guys could keep it up every few minutes in
Monday's parade I will never know. They must be super
super fit. I am hoping that Abel will send those
photos to my email soon so that I can then send them
onward to you, some of them at any rate. We finally
ended up in a little bar and had two large pisco sours
each, a delicious cocktail made from Peruvian brandy
(Pisco) along with beaten egg white and limon juice (a
fruit which is like a cross between lemon and lime)
with cinnamon sprinkled over the top.
The following morning Agustin put me in a taxi for
Javi's house, first standing where the driver could
see him and writing the taxi number on his arm (as a
warning not to try any funny business) and I arrived
at Javi's house about 10 am and the first thing we did
was take my suitcase back to Agustin's house, so that
at the same time Agustin would know I had got there
safely. Then Agustin went off to his workshop and Javi
and I spent a couple of hours in town where I was able
to change more money, buy my bus ticket for Cusco at
one of the agencies there, and we had a light lunch of
Papa Relleno (meat and vegable stuffing inside mashed
potato, then lightly fried - another favourite dish of
mine. One by one I am enjoying all my favourite dishes
at either lunch or dinner!
Later Javi accompanied me back to Agustin's house
before we said our goodbyes until we meet again next
year, but we will be in touch regularly by email as
always, as Javi is constantly on the look out for CDs
for me, in Puno and also in Arequipa and La Paz where
he goes from time to time. Here in Peru he can find
some choice bargains for me. Also we are planning
another big trip, this time to Ecuador, probably in
2007, now that I have promised to come to Puno again
in February next year.
In the afternoon Rita and I unpicked the waistband of
my skirt and cut about 5 inches off the skirt length
before preparing the pleats and adding the waistband.
Once this was ready, Agustin carried in a really old
fashioned sewing machine complete with treadle and he
stitched the waistband back on. He also took in the
jacket about 3 inches each side for a much better fit.
He had hoped to borrow a car so that we could visit
Charcas that afternoon but was unable to track down
his friend to ask about borrowing the car. Because he
had set his heart on taking me there, and the
following day we had to be at the church around 12
noon along with other Huj Mayas and dancers, he said
we would hire a taxi to take us really early next
morning.
Agustin then accompanied me to visit the giant condor
high on the hillside with the best view over the whole
city. We had to follow a winding dusty track up the
mountainside to get to it, pretty nerve wracking
whenever we had to pass vehicles coming the other way
as we were on the outside and nothing to stop cars
rolling down off the edge if the driver miscalculated
when passing on such a narrow track. I felt quite
relieved when we reached the top. The views there were
stupendous and we took several photos, but before
getting out of that taxi we negotiated with the driver
to take us to Chacras at 4.30 next morning and he said
he would call to the house early evening to confirm
the price exactly. We then walked down about a million
steps to get back into town, stopping to rest here and
there, end enjoyed icecreams in a little shop with
patio on the way down as well. Once back in town we
went back home to fetch Rita who by that time would
have given the little girl back to her parents. I may
have told you in an earlier email that that little
girl was Rita and Agustin's but I got that wrong. Rita
looks after other people's children. When we got back
Rita was still absent but Agustin said she had
probably gone to visit her mother so we walked there,
about 15 minutes, and then had to walk down a very
long narrow passageway to get to the house. Once
inside it was evidently a very typical aymara home,
the house built of adobe bricks and decked inside with
woven rugs etc, a one room dwelling, lit by
candlelight rather than electricity. Her Mum was ill
in bed and was delighted to meet me and I too was
delighted to meet a really indigenous aymara lady.
Rita's sister prepared a mate de munya for us and we
enjoyed that whilst chatting to Rita's Mum, who knew
we were going to Chacras next day and would call in
and visit her husband on his little small holding on
the way.
After that we went to the central market and bought
some provisions for a picnic breakfast for the next
day, and then went to have a typical Peruvian roast
chicken dinner before going home to have an early
night. The way they do roast chicken here is
fantastic, the chickens cooking on spits inside an
enormous oven which is like a furnace inside, the
flames burning high. The end result is really
succulent chicken and these chicken brasa restaurants
are popular all over Peru like MacDonalds are back
home.
Next morning I was up first to have a shower and get
ready, knowing the taxi would arrive at 4.30.
Amazingly I woke up at 3.15 even without an alarm
clock and was all ready and dressed by the time Rita
came to call me! Agustin's Mum who was staying the
night also got up then and made us hot drinks and
helped me wash the fruit we were taking with us on the
picnic - juicy black plums as big as oranges,
nectarines as big as grapefruits. The fruits here are
lush!
When the taxi arrived bang on time I was sitting in it
chatting to the driver whilst awaiting Rita and
Agustin who were not quite ready and then we were on
our way. It was still dark and pouring with rain so
not the best conditions for driving into the
countryside. The road followed the lake all the way,
and at times it was like driving over a narrow
causeway as there was water on both sides, muddy water
being thrown onto the windscreen as we drove, the
wipers not making a good job of clearing it, so that
we had our hearts in our mouths at times when traffic
approached from the opposite direction, negotiating
that narrow road with the lake on one side and marshy
water on the other! I was relieved when it began to
get light just after 5.30 and I could see the passing
scenery. Finally at about 6 am we arrived at Rita's
Dad's little small holding deep in the countryside, in
the most heavenly and peaceful spot imaginable with a
view over the lagoon and distant mountains. The dog
came to greet us and once we had parked the taxi we
had a 5 minute walk to get to the house. There were
cows tethered by the house and I was glad that I only
noticed it afterwards that one of them was a bull!
Especially as we walked right by it!!! There were also
donkeys in a little coraal. Next minute Rita's younger
sister was sitting on a little stool milking one of
the cows, so that we'd have milk for our breakfast,
her Dad holding back the calf who had been feeding
just before that. I declined on the milk though as I
am always afraid to risk Crone's disease by drinking
unpasteurised milk. They prepared mate de munya for me
instead and later her Dad picked loads of munya from
the garden for me to take with me, once they learned
how much I love that herb (which is like an andean
mint but nothing like the mint we know, and infusions
of it are good for both stomach and headaches, and
alleviate altitude sickness as well. Then they
prepared a delicious soup with lamb and vegetables,
some completely unknown to me, but delicious all the
same and we enjoyed this along with the ham filled
giant croissants we had brought with us, and the
fruit. Afterwards Rita's Dad and sister had fun
dressing me up in the typical costume of that area and
taking photos. I was so taken with the unusual
headgear that Rita has promised to weave one
especially for me for when Icome back in Feb 2006. She
is also going to knit me a sweater with condor design.
Both Rita and Agustin are keen for me to be the maid
of honour at their wedding next year, having changed
the date so that I can be there. The wedding will take
place at her Dad's place and will be a typical andean
wedding, something I look forward to very much.
Agustin has even promised to build a bedroom so that I
have a place to sleep whilst we are there.
We stayed there a couple of hours in total, the taxi
driver really enjoying the experience as much as I
did, because countryside life is a world away from
town living. This side of Peru a tourist would never
normally experience, so I am really lucky to be able
to do so. We then drove onward to Chacras. It was
still drizzling with rain and the road was a muddy
track, throwing up muddy water all the time so we had
to keep the windows closed. Finally we reached our
destination, a lovely beach and we went walking there
and taking photos for half an hour but at the same
time looking out for the owner of one of the little
boats moored at the lake's edge. Finally we found one
who agreed to row us out to a little island. Climbing
in wasn't easy, and I climbed aboard first, nearly
tipping it up by sitting off centre! Finally we were
all aboard, Agustin and me sitting at the back and
Rita on the prow at the front, and the boy standing in
between and rowing us out. Amazingly even so close to
shore the waves were quite big and at times looked as
though they would land in the boat, and I couldn't
help laughing at the worried look on Agustin's face,
given that none of us can swim, and the wind and waves
appeared to be taking us closer to submerged rocks so
that even I was worried. But we safely got to the
island and went ashore there to take more photos.
Close to that island was another really small one
complete with little house and animals. The people
living there were the concierges guarding the hotel on
the rocks which was closed at that time, but we hope
to spend a couple of nights there after the wedding
next year as that area is so tranquil and beautiful. I
saw it on a rainy day and they said when the sun is
shining it is like paradise on earth.
Then it was time to head homeward although we stopped
once on the way to see a typical countryside market,
but had to negotiate through lots of mud to get into
it so that our shoes were awash with it. We could hear
a pig squealing and it was inside a sack and about to
be killed and probably knew it and I had to look away.
Then we drove back to Puno arriving back at the house
about 11.30 and then it was a mad rush for all of us
to get ready, involving a shower first to get rid of
all the mud. Then half an hour later we were all in
taxi's and on our way to meet the others at the
church. First we went to the place where the Huj
Maya's own statuette of the Virgin Candelaria is kept
(a replica of the Virgen Mary and Jesus on a pedestal
bedecked with white velvet cloak and scattered
flowers). This was then carried to the church through
the town with all of us behind it, first the dancers,
myself included, and then the Huj Mayas following up
behind playing their music. At the church we had to
wait as several other sikuri bands were also parading
their replicas of the Virgin Candelaria. Then we were
all in the church, a really beautiful church decorated
with millions of bunches of flowers, white flowers and
apricot gladioli, and the celebration mass then took
place. Afterwards was another parade around the centre
of town, with us dancing and playing and knowing it
was only for half an hour I was able to dance this
time without resting even for a moment, although I had
an awkward moment rounding one of the corners of a
square when my skirt came undone, only realising it
when I nearly tripped over the hem, but luckily for me
a woman in the crowd noticed and rushed forward to tie
up the waistband again!!!
After the parade we arrived at a huge community hall
where all of us along with friends and family spent
the rest of the day and evening, the Huj Mayas playing
from time to time and everyone else up dancing. Later
in the evening a meal was served to everyone and it
was a very enjoyable get together indeed until I found
I was unable to keep my eyes open a moment longer I
was so tired, and knowing I had to be up early next
day to get to the bus station. At 11 pm, Agustin's Mum
accompanied me back to the house, which was just as
well as I learned from her next morning that the
others didn't get home until after 5 am. Luckily I
woke up okay again without an alarm clock and was
ready to leave the house just after 7. Agustin's Mum
was accompanying me to the bus station as both Rita
and Agustin were sound asleep. I was sorry not to be
able to say goodbye but we will keep in touch this
time, by letter initially but they are going to get an
email address soon which is much easier.
I rang for a taxi and soon we were on our way to the
bus station. It was great being able to use my mobile
phone in Peru for the first time, having gone to Tim
Peru with Abel and Agustin on Thursday to see about
adding credit to my phone with Tim Peru (that being
the signal my phone had picked up on arrival in Peru).
Although it was impossible to add Tim credit to my O2
mobile, we got over the problem by me purchasing
another simm card for 65 soles, and then adding 20
soles credit which I can increment by 20 soles at a
time as I need it. And I can keep the simm card alive
whilst not in Peru by adding 20 soles credit via the
internet with a credit card, just once every six
months.
At the bus station we had time for coffee and then the
bus was leaving and on its way to Cusco, a 7 hour
journey which passed pleasantly as I slept off and on,
but thoroughly enjoying the andean countryside
whenever I was awake, being more aware and
appreciative of it having visited Charcas the previous
day. One region just before arriving at Sicuani was so
incredibly beautiful that living there must be like
living in paradise, the people having their homes and
little pastures full of crops, animals grazing nearby,
sometimes tended by little children, all in a lush
green valley between rolling hills of the Andes
mountains, some peaks snow tipped.
The closer we got to Cusco the warmer became the
climate so that I was really looking forward to
enjoying warm sunshine after the cold of Puno. The
best and warmest day in Puno was the day of the parade
last Monday when we could have done without it!!!!
The bus arrived slightly early and Juan was there to
meet me off the bus and help me with my luggage out to
Marcavalle where I always stay with Neomy and Alfredo
when in Cusco. On arrival Juan carried my things
upstairs to my room and then the four of us went to a
shop opposite and enjoyed coca colas on the patio
enjoying the sunshine, until Juan had to go off, but
we agreed to meet again by me going to the restaurant
where he would be playing that evening at 7 pm.
After a quick change, Alfredo, Neomy and I went into
town for a while and we had dinner together before I
said my goodbyes until the morning, not being sure
what time I would get back, but having been given keys
to both gate and front door, so that I could get in if
late.
Juan and Lucio arrived first, and we shared a large
bottle of Cusquena before the other three band members
arrived and then played for an hour for the diners in
the restaurant, the owners not minding me just sitting
there enjoying a beer. Afterwards we headed for
Fernando's bar, another dear friend I was looking
forward to seeing, but unfortunately being Sunday the
bar was closed and I didn't fancy going anywhere else
as I was still feeling tired from the previous day, so
we agreed to meet up again tonight instead, as another
two hours would pass before live music would be
available in the folkloric clubs Ukukus or Kami Kasi
and I didn't fancy just drinking for the sake of it
until then.
Today I woke up to a glorious sunny day so after
breakfast washed all the munya Rita's Dad had given me
and laid it all outside on paper in the sunshine to
dry out as I hope to bring alot of it back home to
England with me to enjoy mates from time to time
there. I just hope it doesn't rain during the day
today, it being the rainy season in all Peru, but
mostly it rains at night, although sometimes in the
day as well. Neomy was up at 6 and on her way to
Urubamba but Alfredo and I set off to a nearby market
to get some more keys cut as there wasn't enough of
all of them to go round between three of us. We set
off walking but after a while I was groaning and
asking how much further, so we caught the bus the rest
of the way. It only costs 20p to get a key cut here,
far less than back home. From there we got another bus
all the way to the centre and Alfredo stayed with me
until it was time to go and meet Neomy from the bus on
her return from Urubamba and I came into the centre on
my own to have a look around.
One of the most amazing things to happen last night
was whilst walking in Plaza des Armas with Juan and
the other musicians I met up with a friend from London
who was passing in a taxi, stopped it and ran across
to greet me, and I don't know who was most amazed, me
or her, for us to meet up so far from home like that!
She is leaving Cusco on Tuesday so we are hoping to
find each other tonight, and I will be looking out for
her at the same time, as with luck two other musicians
from London, Edgar and Santiago, might be playing at
Kami Kasi tonight and we can go there together. Her
boyfriend Victor used to play music with Edgar and
Santiago in Portabello market 2 to 3 years ago.
After a stroll around Plaza des Armas today I decided
to go and see another dear friend met in 2001. I tried
to find her last August but without success - I found
the new location of her shop but she was absent at
that time. Before that having befriended a couple of
children in the Plaza and buying some of their wares,
they accompanied me to Lydia's shop before saying
goodbye. When I walked in, Lydia was there and really
delighted to see me. We chatted for about half an hour
until noon and then leaving other stall holders to
guard her shop, we went to a nearby cafe and I treated
her to lunch. Then I wound up here but promising to go
back at 4 pm, as hopefully her husband Gorky will be
back by then and I can see him too. On the way to this
internet cafe I saw those little girls again and
described Catalina and said that if they could find
her for me I would give them 5 soles. They knew
immediately who I meant when I described her as long
flowing blonde curly hair really stands out here. If
they don't find her by the time I leave her, I can
almost bet on it that they will find her tonight for
me.
