Aerobics on the beach
Thursday, September 20, 2007
kantouai harbour
Port Al Kantouai is really beautiful, a blend of moorish architecture in the buildings and a harbour full of beautiful yachts.
Tunisia 0708
This was taken on one of the theme evenings when we had dinner outside by the pool rather than in the restaurant.
Friday, September 14, 2007
Tunisia in August 2007
Mum and I were recently in Tunisia again and had a very enjoyable two weeks in the same hotel as our last visit, the Marhaba Beach in Sousse. We had a pleasant flight from Bristol as usual and arrived at Monastir quite late, getting on for midnight. We were amazed that the temperature even that time of night was 35 degrees. Sometime later when the coach transferring us all to various hotels was filled we were on our way and just 30 minutes later we arrived at our hotel around 1 in the morning.
Next day after a good night’s sleep we woke fairly early and were thrilled with the view from our balcony which was even better than last time, looking down on the beach and sea and even at that time there were lots of people swimming in the sea, others jogging along the beach at the water’s edge. Downstairs we were greeted left and right by hotel personnel who recognised us from our last visit and we were especially delighted on arrival in the restaurant to find that Mohamed had remembered and allocated us the same table as last time, under his excellent care. It was the only table near the buffet next to a pillar, which meant we did not have to share it with strangers. We were also delighted to realise that Yori and Karim were on a table real close to us so that we could chat whilst dining. Yori hails from Germany and regularly stays at Marhaba Beach Hotel with her Tunisian boyfriend Karim.
After breakfast we made our way to the beach and were fortunate to be given sunbeds under a parasol close to the sea. We needed to stay under that parasol too because as the morning wore on it got hotter and hotter and it would have been madness to sunbathe directly beneath the sun’s rays. The sea looked inviting, a beautiful aquamarine colour, with lots of people bathing, so we soon made our way in too, which was the best way to cool off even though it was like walking into a warm bath.
The hotel was a lot busier than at Easter but we soon realised that tipping the life guard would ensure the position of our choice on the beach as long as we got down there after breakfast. If arriving later in the day we would have to take pot luck but fortunately there was always a parasol available for us. Mornings were quite busy on the beach with loud music playing and either tai-chi, the club dance or aqua aerobics taking place. Fortunately the sea was marked off with buoys because in addition to loads of people swimming, there were jet skis, speed boats going past towing inflatable sofas loaded with people bouncing on the waves, other boats towing the parascenders into the sky, constant streams of pedlars going by selling all kinds of things from mini palm trees, rugs, large shells, jewelry, cigarettes, clothing, fruit etc. The guy selling the water sports trips was a berber with an excellent sense of humour and he came over for a chat nearly every day and made us laugh. If he was around whenever Mum and I went into the sea, he would insert her walking stick upright into the sand so that she could easily grab it when we came out again. We also befriended a young boy selling shells and Mum promised to buy one before the end of the holiday.
That first week we found the intense heat a bit difficult to endure. Only the cool breezes off the sea made the heat bearable. It reached a peak of around 45 degrees about 8 days into our visit and that day we just could not cool down other than frequent dips into the sea. The air conditioning in our bedroom at night wasn’t strong enough to cool us down so we slept with the sliding door to the balcony open all night too as we could still feel the sea breezes even there. Yori and I would stroll outside to a special sandwich shop some lunch-times but this proved so gruelling after 3 days that I had to decline accompanying her, even though it was an excellent opportunity to stock up on large bottles of coca cola and lemonade. Our thirst was unquenchable in that heat.
After an excellent day on the beach there was different entertainment on each night to enjoy after dinner. All this took place outside under palm trees near the pool and although Mum and I were worried about mosquitos at first, we soon realised there weren’t any and that we could go outside at night without fear of being bitten. I suppose this was because of the hot dry weather which was more humid and damp when we were there last Easter. Our first evening it was my favourite, the folkloric Tunisian show, with live band and dancers, culminating in belly dancing. On the second night, instead of dining in the restaurant, all the tables and chairs were set up around the poolside and even the refrigerated buffet tables dragged outside by the waiters, a mammoth task poor chaps! It was lovely to dine in the open air though and there was a barbeque going as well.
One morning we went for a walk after breakfast, to see what else was on offer within the complex, our hotel being one of four, with the facilities of all the hotels open to everyone. We didn’t get further than visiting the closest one though because even that early the heat was too much for Mum, and then when walking down one of the paths, I looked back and saw a runaway pony and cart heading towards us - told Mum to move onto the grass but being hard of hearing she didn’t catch what I said. Fortunately the guy in charge of the pony was running behind and he managed to grab Mum around the waist and lower her gently to the ground, the horse having only lightly touched her as it ran by. She grazed one finger but was otherwise okay, much to my relief.
I was keen to visit the medina, so arranged to go one day with Mum, who just wanted to look in the Soula Centre shop, and another day with Yori. To save Mum having to walk too far, I walked up to the gate alone and came back with a taxi, and got the driver to drop us as close to the Soula Centre as possible. Once in the Soula Centre we both made a beeline to the jewelry counters, especially the silver and turquoise or silver and mother o pearl counters as we both adore the rings and jewelry made from these semi precious stones. During the course of the holiday I bought seven rings, a turquoise pendant with matching earrings, and a silver and mother o pearl Fatima hand pendant (which are considered lucky). I also bought 7 or 8 Tunisian tunics. Mum bought necklaces in silver and rose quartz, and rings and pendants in different designs to mine. The Soula Centre is on four floors with lifts between floors so we spent a happy couple of hours browsing. Then back outside we popped to the shop where we bought our rose pink leather jackets and had a chat with the chaps in the shop, and then enjoyed cold drinks at a cafe before getting a taxi back.
The following day with Yori it was fun to venture into several other streets of the medina and see shops I had never seen before. That day I found 3 or 4 of the tunics, more traditional ones that you don’t find in the more touristy shops at the beginning of the medina. Later Yori showed me an excellent local restaurant where one could eat Tunisian specialities for excellent prices. Even the menu was in Arabic and it was full of Tunisians. I didn’t have time to dine there as I had to rush back to be with Mum, but Yori was intending to return there for lunch after I had got into my taxi back to the hotel. We enjoyed cold drinks there and the prices were much lower than the touristy cafes at the medina entrance. The name of this restaurant was La Sofla which means ‘The Table’ in English.
During our second week, I went to the medina once more with Mum and again with Yori. As well as visiting the Soula Centre again we wanted to find the jewelry shop we went into last time where we had our fortunes told. Eventually after asking around we found it and they were delighted that we had come back to visit them and were both lucky to have our hands read. We each bought another silver ring in that shop and after our readings a mini pendant made of a mixture of silver and gold, in my case a berber cross and in Mum’s case a golden eye. On that visit with Mum we made our way into the medina looking for La Sofla, but unfortunately I got lost and it was very hot and by the time we found it poor Mum was quite exhausted. Also we were too early to have lunch there as meals wouldn’t be served until another 45 minutes had passed, so we had two cold drinks each instead and luckily I managed to find our way out of the medina afterwards without mishap. Also during that week Mum and I went to Port Al Kantouai, leaving straight after breakfast. Despite that we unfortunately picked another hot day, and at Kantouai there is quite a walk through a little park area with shops before arriving in the medina which was rather exhausting for Mum, so we stopped at a cafe on the marina quayside and enjoyed pints of fresh peach juice. I then left Mum to enjoy hers slowly whilst I looked for a jewelry shop I remembered from last time where the designs are even more elaborate. I found it eventually and soon chose a nice ring and had to wait while it was made slightly bigger, and ended up trying on and buying yet another tunic whilst waiting! After that we headed straight back and onto the beach which was the only place to cool down in such hot weather. Away from the sea there was no breeze at all.
Most evenings we would be with Yori and Karim and also that week we all befriended two Hungarians, Mother and daughter, Kristina and Katya, who were sharing a table in the dining room with Yori and Karim. Four nights a week we would enjoy listening to the resident pianist playing in the bar and reception area before going outside to watch the evening entertainment. He remembered us from last time, remembered I love the Arabic song ‘Aisha’ and often played it for us. One evening Yori and I got up to dance to it and this prompted several Tunisians staying in the hotel to get up and dance too. Early in the holiday before I realised what I was letting myself in for, Yori got me up at the end of the evening entertainment to partake in the ‘club dance’. This was fun but very tiring - dancing enthusiastically to 5 fast arab songs, and following the dance movements of the entertainment team. I managed to do it that once but declined thereafter as it was shattering!!! However, I can remember the movements of the first song, my favourite, and luckily have it on the CD I bought last time. I have made a CD with just that song on it, repeated over and over, and am going to make dancing to it a daily 5 minute exercise from now on. As I get fitter, I will dance through the song more than once. It should be a fun way to get some daily exercise!!!
On one of the last days of the holiday we walked up to the Tour Khalaf hotel to watch the evening entertainment, just a short stroll and under an arch to enter the grounds, and then an uphill walk through beautifully tended gardens to the hotel. Again I was overwhelmed by the cacophony of bird song in the trees growing up in the archway - millions of sparrows, far too many for the amount of branch space, so they are continually on the move, jostling for a perch. It really is amazing to see and hear them. When we came back later, Yori realised that a Tunisian wedding celebration was taking place in the circular conference room nearby. She asked if I would like to see it and I said yes. Mum declined because there was a huge flight of steps leading up to the entrance so I took her back to the room first and settled her for the night and then rejoined Yori in Reception. We entered the conference room and were the only Europeans there - inside was a huge room with hundreds of guests, Tunisians wearing all their finery, some traditional costumes, some wearing the most beautiful evening gowns I have ever seen. Even the men looked sensational. The bride and groom were on the stage and a folk band playing energetically as we entered, some of the guests dancing and then the bride and groom joined in. After that an orchestra took over the music for dancing. We stood to one side watching, but someone invited us to sit down at one of the tables and thereafter whenever food and drink was brought round we were included and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing this traditional wedding celebration. Yori said that was probably the culmination of several days celebrating, as weddings take several days. I felt quite honoured to have been able to see something like this.
Soon our two weeks were coming to an end and we were so sorry because despite the weather we had had a really wonderful relaxing holiday. Yori and Karim’s holiday ended a day before ours and on their last afternoon they went up in one of the parachutes and I accompanied them so that I could take pictures of them as they took off from the beach. It looked an amazing experience and although the berber guy did his best to persuade me to go up with him I declined even though the prices mentioned were amazingly low. Maybe next time I will try it. On our last day the Hungarians departed too, and with all of them gone Mum and I agreed that it just wasn’t the same without them, we had so enjoyed being with them. Before Yori went I invited her to come on a visit to England and she said I must visit her in Germany too, so hopefully later in the year or next year that will happen. She lives near Neuremburg near forests and mountains (it is possible to go skiing near there in winter time) so maybe I will go there in winter 2008. Hopefully before that Yori will visit me. On our last day Mum stayed on the beach until noon, and we then went and had lunch in the poolside restaurant. She then went back to our room which we had retained until 6 pm, to put her feet up and rest in readiness for the journey home. I stayed on the beach until nearly 5 pm, with just enough time to shower and change before giving up our room keys. We had our last dinner there and Mohamed was sorry to be seeing us go. We were able to listen to the pianist one last time and then at 8.45 pm we were on our way to the airport, where we had quite a long wait as our plane was delayed an hour. We finally touched down in Bristol at 3 o clock in the morning and by the time we took Mum home and got home ourselves it was 4.30 by the time I got to bed!
It will probably be a while before I visit Tunisia again because I have other holidays booked in the months ahead – a Mediterranean cruise in November and an Indian Ocean cruise in March. Of the four different times of year I have visited Tunisia over the past 14 months, the best weather of all was during our first visit, so a future visit to Marhaba Beach Hotel could possibly be in June 2008, unless a cheap deal comes up on the internet in December again like last year. Ideally we would choose to go there for the first two weeks of June when the weather is at its absolute best, long sunny days without being too hot.
Next day after a good night’s sleep we woke fairly early and were thrilled with the view from our balcony which was even better than last time, looking down on the beach and sea and even at that time there were lots of people swimming in the sea, others jogging along the beach at the water’s edge. Downstairs we were greeted left and right by hotel personnel who recognised us from our last visit and we were especially delighted on arrival in the restaurant to find that Mohamed had remembered and allocated us the same table as last time, under his excellent care. It was the only table near the buffet next to a pillar, which meant we did not have to share it with strangers. We were also delighted to realise that Yori and Karim were on a table real close to us so that we could chat whilst dining. Yori hails from Germany and regularly stays at Marhaba Beach Hotel with her Tunisian boyfriend Karim.
After breakfast we made our way to the beach and were fortunate to be given sunbeds under a parasol close to the sea. We needed to stay under that parasol too because as the morning wore on it got hotter and hotter and it would have been madness to sunbathe directly beneath the sun’s rays. The sea looked inviting, a beautiful aquamarine colour, with lots of people bathing, so we soon made our way in too, which was the best way to cool off even though it was like walking into a warm bath.
The hotel was a lot busier than at Easter but we soon realised that tipping the life guard would ensure the position of our choice on the beach as long as we got down there after breakfast. If arriving later in the day we would have to take pot luck but fortunately there was always a parasol available for us. Mornings were quite busy on the beach with loud music playing and either tai-chi, the club dance or aqua aerobics taking place. Fortunately the sea was marked off with buoys because in addition to loads of people swimming, there were jet skis, speed boats going past towing inflatable sofas loaded with people bouncing on the waves, other boats towing the parascenders into the sky, constant streams of pedlars going by selling all kinds of things from mini palm trees, rugs, large shells, jewelry, cigarettes, clothing, fruit etc. The guy selling the water sports trips was a berber with an excellent sense of humour and he came over for a chat nearly every day and made us laugh. If he was around whenever Mum and I went into the sea, he would insert her walking stick upright into the sand so that she could easily grab it when we came out again. We also befriended a young boy selling shells and Mum promised to buy one before the end of the holiday.
That first week we found the intense heat a bit difficult to endure. Only the cool breezes off the sea made the heat bearable. It reached a peak of around 45 degrees about 8 days into our visit and that day we just could not cool down other than frequent dips into the sea. The air conditioning in our bedroom at night wasn’t strong enough to cool us down so we slept with the sliding door to the balcony open all night too as we could still feel the sea breezes even there. Yori and I would stroll outside to a special sandwich shop some lunch-times but this proved so gruelling after 3 days that I had to decline accompanying her, even though it was an excellent opportunity to stock up on large bottles of coca cola and lemonade. Our thirst was unquenchable in that heat.
After an excellent day on the beach there was different entertainment on each night to enjoy after dinner. All this took place outside under palm trees near the pool and although Mum and I were worried about mosquitos at first, we soon realised there weren’t any and that we could go outside at night without fear of being bitten. I suppose this was because of the hot dry weather which was more humid and damp when we were there last Easter. Our first evening it was my favourite, the folkloric Tunisian show, with live band and dancers, culminating in belly dancing. On the second night, instead of dining in the restaurant, all the tables and chairs were set up around the poolside and even the refrigerated buffet tables dragged outside by the waiters, a mammoth task poor chaps! It was lovely to dine in the open air though and there was a barbeque going as well.
One morning we went for a walk after breakfast, to see what else was on offer within the complex, our hotel being one of four, with the facilities of all the hotels open to everyone. We didn’t get further than visiting the closest one though because even that early the heat was too much for Mum, and then when walking down one of the paths, I looked back and saw a runaway pony and cart heading towards us - told Mum to move onto the grass but being hard of hearing she didn’t catch what I said. Fortunately the guy in charge of the pony was running behind and he managed to grab Mum around the waist and lower her gently to the ground, the horse having only lightly touched her as it ran by. She grazed one finger but was otherwise okay, much to my relief.
I was keen to visit the medina, so arranged to go one day with Mum, who just wanted to look in the Soula Centre shop, and another day with Yori. To save Mum having to walk too far, I walked up to the gate alone and came back with a taxi, and got the driver to drop us as close to the Soula Centre as possible. Once in the Soula Centre we both made a beeline to the jewelry counters, especially the silver and turquoise or silver and mother o pearl counters as we both adore the rings and jewelry made from these semi precious stones. During the course of the holiday I bought seven rings, a turquoise pendant with matching earrings, and a silver and mother o pearl Fatima hand pendant (which are considered lucky). I also bought 7 or 8 Tunisian tunics. Mum bought necklaces in silver and rose quartz, and rings and pendants in different designs to mine. The Soula Centre is on four floors with lifts between floors so we spent a happy couple of hours browsing. Then back outside we popped to the shop where we bought our rose pink leather jackets and had a chat with the chaps in the shop, and then enjoyed cold drinks at a cafe before getting a taxi back.
The following day with Yori it was fun to venture into several other streets of the medina and see shops I had never seen before. That day I found 3 or 4 of the tunics, more traditional ones that you don’t find in the more touristy shops at the beginning of the medina. Later Yori showed me an excellent local restaurant where one could eat Tunisian specialities for excellent prices. Even the menu was in Arabic and it was full of Tunisians. I didn’t have time to dine there as I had to rush back to be with Mum, but Yori was intending to return there for lunch after I had got into my taxi back to the hotel. We enjoyed cold drinks there and the prices were much lower than the touristy cafes at the medina entrance. The name of this restaurant was La Sofla which means ‘The Table’ in English.
During our second week, I went to the medina once more with Mum and again with Yori. As well as visiting the Soula Centre again we wanted to find the jewelry shop we went into last time where we had our fortunes told. Eventually after asking around we found it and they were delighted that we had come back to visit them and were both lucky to have our hands read. We each bought another silver ring in that shop and after our readings a mini pendant made of a mixture of silver and gold, in my case a berber cross and in Mum’s case a golden eye. On that visit with Mum we made our way into the medina looking for La Sofla, but unfortunately I got lost and it was very hot and by the time we found it poor Mum was quite exhausted. Also we were too early to have lunch there as meals wouldn’t be served until another 45 minutes had passed, so we had two cold drinks each instead and luckily I managed to find our way out of the medina afterwards without mishap. Also during that week Mum and I went to Port Al Kantouai, leaving straight after breakfast. Despite that we unfortunately picked another hot day, and at Kantouai there is quite a walk through a little park area with shops before arriving in the medina which was rather exhausting for Mum, so we stopped at a cafe on the marina quayside and enjoyed pints of fresh peach juice. I then left Mum to enjoy hers slowly whilst I looked for a jewelry shop I remembered from last time where the designs are even more elaborate. I found it eventually and soon chose a nice ring and had to wait while it was made slightly bigger, and ended up trying on and buying yet another tunic whilst waiting! After that we headed straight back and onto the beach which was the only place to cool down in such hot weather. Away from the sea there was no breeze at all.
Most evenings we would be with Yori and Karim and also that week we all befriended two Hungarians, Mother and daughter, Kristina and Katya, who were sharing a table in the dining room with Yori and Karim. Four nights a week we would enjoy listening to the resident pianist playing in the bar and reception area before going outside to watch the evening entertainment. He remembered us from last time, remembered I love the Arabic song ‘Aisha’ and often played it for us. One evening Yori and I got up to dance to it and this prompted several Tunisians staying in the hotel to get up and dance too. Early in the holiday before I realised what I was letting myself in for, Yori got me up at the end of the evening entertainment to partake in the ‘club dance’. This was fun but very tiring - dancing enthusiastically to 5 fast arab songs, and following the dance movements of the entertainment team. I managed to do it that once but declined thereafter as it was shattering!!! However, I can remember the movements of the first song, my favourite, and luckily have it on the CD I bought last time. I have made a CD with just that song on it, repeated over and over, and am going to make dancing to it a daily 5 minute exercise from now on. As I get fitter, I will dance through the song more than once. It should be a fun way to get some daily exercise!!!
On one of the last days of the holiday we walked up to the Tour Khalaf hotel to watch the evening entertainment, just a short stroll and under an arch to enter the grounds, and then an uphill walk through beautifully tended gardens to the hotel. Again I was overwhelmed by the cacophony of bird song in the trees growing up in the archway - millions of sparrows, far too many for the amount of branch space, so they are continually on the move, jostling for a perch. It really is amazing to see and hear them. When we came back later, Yori realised that a Tunisian wedding celebration was taking place in the circular conference room nearby. She asked if I would like to see it and I said yes. Mum declined because there was a huge flight of steps leading up to the entrance so I took her back to the room first and settled her for the night and then rejoined Yori in Reception. We entered the conference room and were the only Europeans there - inside was a huge room with hundreds of guests, Tunisians wearing all their finery, some traditional costumes, some wearing the most beautiful evening gowns I have ever seen. Even the men looked sensational. The bride and groom were on the stage and a folk band playing energetically as we entered, some of the guests dancing and then the bride and groom joined in. After that an orchestra took over the music for dancing. We stood to one side watching, but someone invited us to sit down at one of the tables and thereafter whenever food and drink was brought round we were included and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing this traditional wedding celebration. Yori said that was probably the culmination of several days celebrating, as weddings take several days. I felt quite honoured to have been able to see something like this.
Soon our two weeks were coming to an end and we were so sorry because despite the weather we had had a really wonderful relaxing holiday. Yori and Karim’s holiday ended a day before ours and on their last afternoon they went up in one of the parachutes and I accompanied them so that I could take pictures of them as they took off from the beach. It looked an amazing experience and although the berber guy did his best to persuade me to go up with him I declined even though the prices mentioned were amazingly low. Maybe next time I will try it. On our last day the Hungarians departed too, and with all of them gone Mum and I agreed that it just wasn’t the same without them, we had so enjoyed being with them. Before Yori went I invited her to come on a visit to England and she said I must visit her in Germany too, so hopefully later in the year or next year that will happen. She lives near Neuremburg near forests and mountains (it is possible to go skiing near there in winter time) so maybe I will go there in winter 2008. Hopefully before that Yori will visit me. On our last day Mum stayed on the beach until noon, and we then went and had lunch in the poolside restaurant. She then went back to our room which we had retained until 6 pm, to put her feet up and rest in readiness for the journey home. I stayed on the beach until nearly 5 pm, with just enough time to shower and change before giving up our room keys. We had our last dinner there and Mohamed was sorry to be seeing us go. We were able to listen to the pianist one last time and then at 8.45 pm we were on our way to the airport, where we had quite a long wait as our plane was delayed an hour. We finally touched down in Bristol at 3 o clock in the morning and by the time we took Mum home and got home ourselves it was 4.30 by the time I got to bed!
It will probably be a while before I visit Tunisia again because I have other holidays booked in the months ahead – a Mediterranean cruise in November and an Indian Ocean cruise in March. Of the four different times of year I have visited Tunisia over the past 14 months, the best weather of all was during our first visit, so a future visit to Marhaba Beach Hotel could possibly be in June 2008, unless a cheap deal comes up on the internet in December again like last year. Ideally we would choose to go there for the first two weeks of June when the weather is at its absolute best, long sunny days without being too hot.
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