Well we are on our last few hours here in Otavalo and are all feeling sad to be leaving. Did another tour round the market and are spending a brief moment in the internet cafe next to our favourite coffee shop/icecream parlour which is why this part will be started now and finished off tonight when back in Auberge Inn in Quito.
We had a really brilliant time here yesterday. After the delightful interlude in the courtyard snack bar cum coffee shop behind the tie dye shop we just about had time to get to Jesus Campo´s shop. When we got there he had just gone off to get his car and we were chatting with his wife and other family members whose shops were on the same side of the street. Layla bought a necklace and 2 bracelets that the women typically wear here and then Jesus arrived and we were on our way to Peguche, the nearby village where he lives.
Soon we were driving into the courtyard where his house was and as we got out of the car we could hear the other members of the band practising and soon we were inside and invited to sit down on a sofa facing an archway, beyond which they had set up their instruments. The next hour was pure magic as they played typical music from Otavalo for us. Five of the original group were playing for us, the 6th one being in Venezuela at the moment. We could see by looking at their pictures in the CD cover that they were five proper group members and not just a bunch of musicians assembled together.
They were so gracious and friendly to us, explaining a bit about each song before they played it and even sometimes the story behind what the song was all about. We had both worn full skirts knowing we would be dancing. Layla danced the most and about half the time I got up and accompanied her and we were enjoying ourselves immensely. Just watching each musician playing his instrument with so much feeling was just as enjoyable as dancing to the songs. They played my favourite, Pobre Corazon, upon request as well as one or two that Layla requested but mostly were doing typical Otavalo music from the local region. One guy played bombo drum, rondador and chacras, another was really brilliant on the violin, Jesus´s son played the guitar and Jesus played either bandolin (which is typical of this area) or charango, and another guy played flutes or panpipes etc. At the end when it was all over we chatted for a while. It was clear they had enjoyed our enthusiasm as much as we had enjoyed their music, and they told us the next time we visited Otavalo they would be there waiting for us, that we had new friends here. That is great. I have the email address of Jesus´s 9 year old daughter who was also there with her cousin,so can keep in contact from time to time through her. Also the 13 year old daughter came in near the end and gave us each a friendship bracelet which she had made herself.
In the garden opposite on a tree (completely untethered) was a parrot and we went over to see it afterwards and took a photo or two. When I asked if I could hold it, all the children laughed saying it would give me a nasty peck if I tried!!!
Then about 5.30 it was time to say our goodbyes to everyone. Our little private concert had cost us 30 dollars each, plus another 10 for their CD. I bought it even though I already had a pirate copy bought for 2 dollars in the market, simply because having told them I was a collector of andean music, how could I leave without buying their CD! I will give the copy to Javi when he meets up with us for the day on 15 August in Arequipa.
Today our last day we packed everything into the huge pull-along canvas cases we all bought - I still have to get all the stuff in it left behind in Quito yet. I just hope I can manage everything. Then our taxi driver Patricio came to pick us up to take us to Otavalo market for the last time - I have mainly been helping Rosalind find the things she wants to take back, but did buy another CD which was playing and I just couldn´t resist it. It´s original and I got it for 8 dollars instead of the usual 12.
Once we leave here we have to ask our taxi driver to take us to the international bank Layla and I passed on our way to Ibarra yesterday. For some reason Rosalind is unable to get any money with her card here in Otavalo, and we are hoping for better luck at an international bank. Failing that maybe we will have better luck in Quito but may not get there before the banks close.
We hope to be on a bus back to Quito around 2 pm. This is easy as Patricio will take us to the bus station and from there buses leave for Quito every 10 minutes. Well that is all news up until today, so maybe I won´t be writing again tonight - my next message will be written in Peru in 2 or 3 days time after that long tedious 28 hour bus trip.
