This episode of my travels will probably be shorter than usual, just writing about the magic of last Saturday night. Today is Monday night and we have had a magical day up at Machu Picchu, a fantastic 9 hours up there and almost the first thing we did when we came back down the mountain tonight was to go and buy another lot of tickets to go again tomorrow at dawn!
When I left the internet cafe last Friday the others were ready to go back to Cusco and soon we were on a bus and travelling back. We were all sat in the back seat of the bus and Layla was amused as we boarded to see all the bicyles and other goods stowed on the roof. She agreed that travelling on that campesino bus was far more fun than a normal bus would have been .. and it certainly wasn´t uncomfortable as Juan had feared. He had his charango and panpipes with him and early in the journey played a while to the enthusiastic clapping of the other passengers. After that I got my iPod out and as I was sat next to Jorge and have a headphone splitter, we both listened to some great music the rest of the way back. Back in Cusco we were hungry again so decided to go to Chez Maggy (which since we arrived in Cusco has become a favourite haunt) mainly because I enjoy the music of the resident group so much and have become very friendly with the two panpipe players Larry and Carlos. We got there just in time to see their performance and ordered a family size pizza to share. This finished off a fantastic day beautifully. My biggest regret is that therer isn´t time to go back to Urubamba again. It is such a tranquil and beautiful place in the heart of the Sacred Valley - the people very friendly - and the climate there is fantastic, warm most of the year round.
On Saturday, Layla and I had a quiet day planned, not planning to meet up with Juan again until the early evening, at Garcilaso theatre for the Kusikay show. It didnt occur to me the night before, only next day, that I could have invited Jorge to join us, especially as the cost of the entrance was so minimal for Cusco residents, only a quarter of what it costs for tourists. As Layla wanted to download more pictures from her camera to CD as well as look for a new skirt, I decided to walk up to the theatre to see if a seat either side of the three we´d bought were still available. On the way I somehow befriended an old lady, who started chatting to me as I was waiting to cross the road (a task and a half in Cusco, there is so much traffic). She came with me to the theatre in order to show me the way via a shortcut and in the process told me how much she enjoyed chatting to foreigners and making new friends around the world, so we exchanged addresses so that I could write to her too. Before saying goodbye at the theatre she gave me a little gift of some earrings which I thought was very sweet and I will more than reciprocate when I get home and send something really nice from England.
I was lucky that a seat on one side of our three was still vacant and was able to put a reserve on it, and be able to pay for it in the evening just prior to the show. I then phoned Juan and asked him to try and get hold of Jorge when he finished work to see if he would like to join us. I then rejoined Layla and we went to a coffee shop. She was hungry for lunch so I suggested getting a taxi up the hill to Casona del Inca, a restaurant I remember having lunch in with Aquiles Dad a few times in 2001 and it is where I met my first musician friend in Cusco. 15 minutes later we were getting out of the taxi and I was first amazed at how busy the restaurant was and also at how much it had changed. The outdoor patio where I had lunched with Alfredo was now covered over and the restaurant thus extended and there were no musicians playing. This was now a restaurant that catered mostly for Peruvians and was pretty high class. We were lucky to get a table next to the window and before we even saw any menus we were handed a pisco sour each, Layla´s favourite drink! We perused the menu and I chose a speciality roast pork dish and Layla opted for a trout ceviche. Next minute three plates of tasty snacks were placed before us and a bowl of delicious soup each, all compliments of the house. Layla ordered another pisco sour and I ordered a coke, but the waiter made a mistake and brought two pisco sours - when I mentioned I hadnt ordered it he said it was free, on the house! We ended up ordering another each after that and thoroughly enjoyed a good couple of hours in that restaurant. Then a taxi back down and getting ready for the evening.
We had to meet Juan at the theatre at 7 pm and I had no idea until then whether Jorge would be with him. As it happened Jorge was with him and really thrilled to be going to the theatre. We had fantastic seats central at the front and when the show began it was absolutely amazing, the best theatre performance I have ever seen in my life. It was a mix of music, dance, theatre, circus and multi media. At the back of the stage was a constant changing picture on the screen there, and the show began with a side stage set that was brilliant and then the stage exploded with people, unbelievable costumes, all set to the most intense andean music. Throughout the show we were absolutely mesmerised. As well as using the stage and the side stage set, more performers came from the sides past the audience, in the front of the stage, and coming down from above on cables or flying across above us - all to the most intense story of Chaska, an andean girl who strived to save her village. Juan and Jorge were so moved in places by the performance that they were wiping tears from their eyes and we were all transfixed. They couldn´t thank us enough for such an unbelievable treat. This was a world class performance that if taken all over the world would be an amazing success. If I were here longer I would pay the cost and see it all over again. After it was over we walked back down to the centre, checking out Chez Maggy to see if the band were still there. I was in such a rush to get down there that they could hardly keep up with me and pretty well walked past the band who were outside (!!) until Larry called out my name! We had one last drink in there whilst the band played. Then back to the hotel for an early night as we both still had packing to do, and a very early start next day.
Sunday - onward to Aguas Calientes
I was up first at 3.30 am on Sunday in order to get a shower before heading to the station for our early train. Luckily we´d arranged with the hotel owner to let us out in the morning as the hotel is locked up tight each night. By 5.15 we were in a taxi on our way to the station, with just one bag of necessities for the next 4 days, having left all our things in storage at the hotel. We were soon entering San Pedro station and both relieved to find the cafe open that early and we had a nice relaxing breakfast of coffee and 2 croissants each (for the low price of 2 quid each) whilst waiting to board our train.
By 6.20 we were in our allocated seats and the train left on time at 6.50. The journey to Aguas Calientes lasted 4 hours and was amazing. Layla was busy taking photos the whole time. The journey out of Cusco is spectacular with amazing views over the city. The train zig zags up tracks, going backwards while the signal is changed and then up another stretch and so on. As we went higher and higher above the city the views were stupendous, yet at the same time we were close enough to people´s homes that we could look in the windows, see dogs, the odd cockerel and even other farm animals in the gardens, children waving at us as we went by even at that hour. Once we had climbed high above the city we were on our way and went through some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable. Andean pastoral scenes against the backdrop of spectacular mountains has to be seen to be believed. We were hanging out the window the whole time, so transfixed were we. Soon we were going through the Sacred Valley, an even more idyllic pastoral scene than going by bus - water rushing over rocks in the River Urubamba which we followed for quite some time. At times we could see the Inca Trail too. At Urubamba a new lot of passengers got on and in front of us were people from Marlborough, Wilts - what a small world - and because of it I got to know about a fantastic andean play being put on in Calne in early December, about the incas and conquistadors. Lilian gave me all the contact details necessary so that I can obtain tickets for it.
At 11 am we pulled into Aguas Calientes station where we were met by someone from Gringo Bills hotel, who carried our luggage. Soon we were checking in and were both thrilled with our room which was en suite and very comfortable looking. We unloaded our things and zoomed straight out again, in order to have a look around before Juan arrived on the local train at about 1 pm. We watched an andean band playing on the railway tracks opposite a restaurant, and saw them move their equipment in a hurry as a train was approaching, a goods wagon, not Juan´s train. We had to wait nearly another hour for that to arrive, the whistle tooting, as it pulled in on the tracks which are right in the middle of the road! Layla was overjoyed that he had arrived.
We went and had a nice lunch after climbing the long steep street which is lined with restaurants and shops. We lingered over a very long lunch, enjoying the warm sunshine. Then we went to check out the thermal baths - mainly to check one could still hire costumes and towels. Throughout the afternoon as we walked around the little town, Juan bumped into loads of musician friends so we knew where to enjoy some live music that evening. Having checked out what time they would play, we just had time to go back to the hotel and grab our swimwear and walk up to the thermal baths. Having paid the entrance fee, a cheap 4 dollars each it was a long upward hike to the pools - quite tiring and over a couple of wooden bridges over the river Urubamba thundering over boulders below us. I was quite surprised on arrival at the pools to find they had built several more of them. When I wasthere last there were only three pools, only one of them with really warm water, so we had to dip our toes into several before we found the best one. It was absolutely fantastic being in those waters at the base of the high mountain and we were all reluctant to leave until in the end we had to if we were to get dressed and get back down to Inka Wasy restaurant where the band would play. We just made it back down and ordered a drink when they started playing. A fitting end to a brilliant day. I fell asleep to an andean CD on my iPod and don´t remember hearing more than half the first song!
Having pleaded with the others for an early start and not getting any joy I resigned myself to going later. When I suggested going on ahead Juan wouldn´t hear of it, saying it was best if we all went together. We met for breakfast at 7 am, a really nice substantial one, and then were on the bus going up the mountain by about 7.45. I had forgotten what an awesome climb that was, zig zagging up mountain trails to a staggering height above Aguas Calientes. Layla couldn´t get over it, the fantastic views into the abyss, the wheels of the bus just a foot or less from the edge of the road. Then we were pulling in at the top and walking into the sanctuary.
From the entry point it is a long stiff climb to get into the sanctuary. Because we were early we walked along the outside following signs to the Inti Punku, a funerary stone. We climbed higher and higher until we were literally gasping for breath. After about 45 mins we met Lilian coming down and a bit later her husband. She said to keep going as it was worth the climb for the view. As it happened we didn´t make it to the funerary stone but went really high and took some stupendous photos - this was actually the end of the Inca trail where people arrive after the 4 day hike to Machu Picchu. The sun was out and we had the most amazing hot weather all day. Then we descended and went into the sanctuary proper. We had the most amazing day in there. Even though there were crowds the place is big enough to find quiet places to relax in, and despite knowing there are hoards of people all around, the sense of peace and tranquility is indescribable. We really enjoyed ourselves but the other two were soon regretting not getting up earlier especially when all the tourists arriving from Cusco on the trains arrived. We enjoyed the day so much that as soon as we got back down the mountain at 5 pm we went straight to the office to buy more tickets for Machu Picchu tomorrow, then around to a different office to get the bus tickets for the trip up the mountain. These are not cheap at 56 dollars each for entry and bus ticket, but having spent the money to get here (96 dollars by train) and 3 nights in a really super hotel, it doesn´t seem so crazy splashing out for another wonderful day up there. This time we aim to be on the first bus up the mountain at 5.30 and stay there until at least midday or early afternoon ... then descend to bathe in the thermal waters in daylight and have a late lunch. After that we still have Wednesday here until we catch the train back to Cusco at 5 pm. I will next write in a few days time after the christening and the Puno trip.
