Not much has happened that is different than things already written up apart from a couple of visits to Cusco, once with Nohemy and Alfredo and the second time to meet up with Juan and other musicians in Plaza de Armas.
I met Juan by the fountain as usual and then sat on the cathedral steps with the other musicians who were waiting for an opportunity to play in Paititi´s restaurant. I chatted in English with Eber, who let me listen to the CD in his Walkman that his friends in Trujillo had sent - a group named Wari - and promised to get a copy of it made in time for my next visit to Cusco. Larry came over and listened to music in my iPod and I took some photos. Finally the band got the word they could play in Paititi´s and we crossed the road. While the musicians donned their ponchos I took a peek inside, saw it was very busy, so said I would wait outside and listen from there. But as soon as the band entered, a waiter appeared and said ´come on in and listen to some music´ and ushered me to a table which I thought was very kind. He must have either recognised me from previous visits to Cusco or seen me with the musicians on the cathedral steps. I have regularly listened to the musicians in Paititi´s ever since my first visit to Cusco, so he probably recognised me from those days.
They played for about half an hour and I enjoyed listening and then left with them, thanking the waiter for his kindness on the way out. We then had to hurry to Qori Chaska restaurant where they were next going to play, a short walk away up the street next to the cathedral. On arrival there we were greeted by the owner, a lovely friendly man, who I met briefly and was introduced to by Juan on my last visit to Cusco. Although there were no customers in Qori Chaska when we arrived, the owner wanted them to play anyway and said they could play just for me and him and he would join in on the bombo.
From that moment on we had the most amazing time. The owner sent a waiter out for some litre bottles of Pilsen which we all shared, and the band were playing all the songs I requested, with the owner joining in and we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves and I took lots of photos. The lively music attracted customers and soon two tables were filled with Argentinians, Japanese and American people, one of whom enjoyed the music so much that after only being there 5 minutes bought a Cusquena beer for all five members of the band.
When the band stopped for a rest, one of them went out and bought another load of beers, and I could see they were enjoying themselves as much as I was. I had originally arranged to meet Nohemy and Alfredo at the house at 3.30 but was enjoying myself too much to leave and phoned and explained and said I would see them later when I got back in Urubamba. I stayed until 5.30 when Juan put me in a taxi, as I wanted to be in a carro on my way back to Urubamba before it got fully dark. I made it home by about 7.30.
I am in Cusco right now for a few hours, having come in to get money from the ATM machine in Plaza de Armas, plus get some photos developed as the quality of developed photos is much better here in Cusco than it is in Urubamba. I came in early and had breakfast in a cafe near the Plaza, an amazing breakfast of fruit salad = papaya, pineapple, banana and apple, smothered in yoghurt and granola plus toast, butter and jam, a tall glass of freshly squeeze pineapple juice and coffee = all for less than 2 quid. Unfortunately there is no chance of meeting up with Juan today because he has gone to Puno for a few days.
I am thinking of going on a trip myself within the next two or three weeks to add a bit of variation to life out here. I may go and visit my friend Elva in Ilo for a few days and will travel there by bus to keep costs down. I think the bus journey from Cusco to Arequipa is about eight or nine hours, and from there to Ilo another five hours. I imagine Elva would meet me in Arequipa and depending on arrival time either continue on to Ilo, or stay the night with her son and travel on to Ilo next day.
