We are in Cusco today and unable to get back to Urubamba due to another countrywide transport strike. After breakfast we set out shopping as I had promised to cook my version of Peruvian Pork today (Adobo de Chancho to a Puno recipe). Nohemy said we would walk to the nearby market .... nearby!!! It was about three miles walk through a part of town no foreigner would ever venture. The sun was beating down and Nohemy was walking on one side of the road in the shade as she didn´t have her hat with her, and I was walking on the other side in full sunshine enjoying the warmth.
There were lots of people out walking, walking on the main road, Avenida de Cultura, because of the transport strike, and you can imagine how people stared at me being so far from the town centre. I felt a bit nervous at times, especially when noisy crowds were up ahead, but Nohemy assured me there was nothing to worry about. When we finally reached the market I enjoyed going round that, picking up a toothbrush and shampoo as all mine are over in Urubamba, plus spices etc, delicious yellow potatoes that I remember from a previous visit, juicy pears but no pork loins which is what we had come for. So a lengthy walk back to drop off what we had bought and then continue on to the nearby supermarket, in the opposite direction. When we got there it appeared to be closed but wasn´t - it just appeared that way because of a commotion going on across the road. Some poor unfortunate in a car had broken down and gangs of men were attacking any vehicle on the road with sticks and banging on the windows. Whoever was in that car must have been terrified.
We were allowed to get into the supermarket by a side door to do our shopping and managed to get the rest of the things we needed. Back home I got busy preparing everything and then cooking lunch whilst Nohemy made the rice. By the time it was ready we were starving and all dived in and fortunately they enjoyed it as much as I did. There was none left anyway and I had made loads!! They then went off for a siesta and I sat up on the rooftop patio in the sunshine for the next three hours, half dozing and half trying to read a book. Now that the sun has gone down we are here in the internet cafe and I will stay long enough to catch up on all replies.
I actually came into Cusco on my own yesterday, catching the bus as there were no carros when I got there. The bus wound its way through the Andean valley rather than over the bridge and direct to Cusco and for a while I thought I was on the wrong bus going in a completely opposite direction, but no, it was just a different route. It was just as beautiful and scenic a route, probably even more so, stopping at lots of villages on the way, until finally near Pisac we went over a different bridge and began the climb out of the valley. I thought it would be hours before we reached Cusco but not too long later recognised that we were passing Sacsaywaman, a favourite place of mine where the old inca fortress is situated, high above Cusco. I got a taxi to Avenida el Sol, a very long street where lots of the banks and casas de cambio are situated, tons of shops and the main post office where all mail is delivered (and people collect it). There I was able to get a few postcards into the mail, then cashed up some money, and headed up to Plaza des Armas and amazingly bumped into someone I knew there - Miguel, the old guy from Urubamba, who wanted to have lunch with me but I managed to put him off, telling him I had to meet someone soon. I said I would probably see him in the plaza at Urubamba sometime.
After a wander round for a while I went and had lunch after which it was time to go and meet Juan by the fountain in the centre of the plaza. It was fun to see him again, having only briefly spoken at the airport when I arrived. I suggested going for a beer and he led the way to a little bar about 10 minutes from the plaza and we had a nice chat and shared a couple of beers and I took a few photos of him to send to my friend Layla, who is still in contact with him since last year. After about an hour two other musicians joined us, Miguel who I remember from several visits and another guy who I recognised but didn´t actually get to know last year. I was really enjoying being with them and very reluctantly left as I had to meet Nohemy in the same place, by the plaza fountain at 3 pm. The plan was to go and buy a few things I needed for my little kitchen at the other house, mostly containers to keep spices and other food ingredients in, in order to keep them hygienic. In the shops she took me to I found everything that I wanted and later we looked in a big electrical shop as I want to buy a mini fridge as well, but these were more expensive than I had envisaged and this will have to wait a while. I saw some small stereo players quite reasonable and hope to get one of those too later on. My little kitchen is taking shape gradually. Nohemy has given me a two burner cooker on a little table (and a gas bottle which I replaced with a full one) and a cupboard to keep things in. Also a table and some chairs, some pans, cutlery, plates, glasses etc. Hopefully in a week or two I will be able to cook meals there and invite people over at lunchtimes.
After this we went back to the house at Cusco and the plan was to stay overnight and get an early carro back to Urubamba this morning. Alas that was not to be due to this nationwide transport strike. Peru seems to be plagued by strikes of all kinds and it is a pity. I think it is only for one day though and all will be back to normal tomorrow. We are getting up early and leaving at 5 am to get a carro back to Urubamba. I never would have believed this but after yearning to be in Cusco all this time I actually feel more at home in Urubamba and I don´t know why!!! I am really looking forward to getting back there tomorrow. I am anxious to see Carlos and Lidia again who must wonder why I haven´t visited lately, especially as we are all travelling together this coming Friday.
On Sunday I went to the local church early in the morning. Nohemy went on ahead and I followed but couldn´t see her when I got there. I waited on a seat outside until the service began and then went in. After about 5 minutes I spotted Nohemy in the next lot of pews across the aisle but it was too difficult to move so I stayed where I was. The service was lovely and again, the priest spoke very clearly and it was quite easy to follow the service and even learn a bit more Spanish from it. Siglos y siglos for instance means forever and ever. The doors to the church were open wide and at times a dog or two ran down the aisle and were chased out by children. What was especially impressive was the huge congregation, hundreds of people attended, down to the very poorest campesinos.
Afterwards Nohemy and I went round the market and bought what we needed for lunch as she was going to teach me how to make a Peruvian chicken casserole. I am now going to give you the recipe so you can have a go - it may taste slightly different because the aji rojo and aji amarillo pastes are not available over there. (This is a paste made from red chillis and yellow chillis here, which are not as hot as the chillis we know at home).
Estofado de Pollo
Slice up 3 onions and add to a pan along with oil, a good tablespoon of garlic paste (or 2 or 3 cloves of garlic). Fry until softened, then add the portions of chicken. We used a whole chicken cut into about 16 pieces. Then add a teaspoon of whole peppercorns, a teaspoon of salt and half teaspoon of both tumeric and paprika, and a good pinch of cummin. Add one chicken stock cube and some cornflower/water mix to thicken and water to nearly cover the chicken and cover the pan and leave simmering for about half an hour. While this was going on the potatoes were cooking. They cook them first and then peel them here. These were added about 15 mins before the end of cooking time. Meanwhile Nohemy was making a fried rice and I helped her prepare the accompanying salad which was finely diced up lettuce, sliced red onions, peeled cucumber slices, juicy fat red oval tomatoes finely sliced and a good pinch of salt and squeezed fresh lime juice all over it. (The limons here are small and taste like a cross between lemons and limes so back home it would be wise to use half and half to achieve the same taste).
The past few days have been quite quiet really. Nohemy and Alfredo retire to bed quite early and therefore so do I, unless I am out with my musician friends, or round Carlos´s house. I feel thoroughly rested though after that long journey to get here and like this quieter pace of life after all those months of working hard and saving to get here. My next entry might not be for about a week as on Friday we set off for Quillabamba and I imagine there won´t be another internet opportunity until we get back.
