Peru and Bolivia 2003

Peru and Bolivia Feb 2003

Safe Arrival in Lima.
I arrived in Lima after a long and quite tiring trip. Colin and I had to get up for 1 in the morning Sunday night/Monday morning and I tried from 7 until 11 to get to sleep but it was impossible; I was too excited. After listening to the same CD 4 times and being still awake I did not dare sleep then in case I didn't wake up in time so I got up, had a shower, checked my email for the last time and woke Colin up with a cup of tea at 1 am.

We left for the airport at 2 and that early it was a clear run to London. We were both glad not to have to scrape ice off the windscreen as was the case in the previous 2 or 3 weeks of cold weather. We arrived at Heathrow at 4 which was too early to do anything! I checked in my luggage at 5.15, at that time being able to request an aisle seat next to a window seat on both legs of the journey. I was carrying two lots of music - my new mp3 player which contains around 300 CDs worth of Andean music, plus my CD walkman with 16 CDs, plus two purses all slung on a strong leather belt around my waist, money-belt beneath that under my clothes, book, make up, hairbrush and large bag of sweets in coat pockets in case I had to check in my large flight bag as luggage. After that we were waiting for the restaurants to open to get breakfast but gave up on having a traditional breakfast when Weatherspoons did not open on time and instead opted for a franglais breakfast - bacon baguette - as I wanted to be down in the departures area well before 7 to find out which departure gate in good time, before the 7.30 departure.

I said my goodbyes to Colin at this gate and in no time was at the departure gate and boarded the plane about half an hour before its departure. As it happened it was 10 minutes late leaving and it took about 2 hours to reach Madrid. That last short wait before boarding the plane I was struggling to keep my eyes open by then, so after the breakfast and unlimited coffee served on the plane I managed to sleep about an hour until we landed. Upon approaching Madrid airport we were told the temperature there was -6 but it did not seem cold. The sun was shining brightly and it seemed a lot warmer than that.

Once inside the airport it was just a short walk to the departure gate for my second longer flight. Here I had 1.75 hours to wait, being able to board about half an hour before its departure time. I made myself comfortable to be one of the first on, listening to music to pass the time and making more inroads into the excellent book I had brought for the journey - given to me by my friend Ann on Saturday - called The Incas - Lords of Blood and Glory, beautifully illustrated with colour photos.

Soon enough we were boarding the huge plane - a Boeing 340 300 airbus. Each passenger was allocated a blanket and pillow for the trip, offered flight socks and headphones for watching films being shown throughout the trip. I was sitting next to a young Peruvian girl. Soon enough we were in the air, a very smooth take off, and then served a really delicious lunch once airborne, complete with choice of cold drinks and then unlimited coffee. We were told the estimated flying time until our arrival was just under 11 hours, less than I thought. I managed to get a short sleep here and there but never for longer than 20 or 30 minutes but somehow by now I had gone beyond the point of feeling tired. I was quite happy listening to my music with my eyes closed and the seat reclined even though I could not sleep properly. Sometimes reading for a while, sometimes watching the television. The actual flight was quite pleasant despite being so long, with drinks served whenever people wanted them, and snacks available if required. An hour or so before landing at Lima we were served another hot meal which was also excellent. The best part of the journey was going over the rainforest, seeing the Amazon and its tributaries 10,700 feet below. When we approached Lima we descended into clouds that felt like being suspended in cotton wool, you could hear a pin drop it was so quiet, everyone practically holding their breath as the plane descended. I was chewing like mad to counteract the pressure in my ears and then we could see the sea and our approach to Lima airport on the coast. The landing was such a smooth one that we hardly felt the wheels touch the ground and everyone clapped and you could feel the visible sighs of relief to be safely on the ground at our destination!

People descended the aircraft from 3 stairways and then walked across the tarmac and onto a bus which took us to the airport itself. Then long queues and a slow process to get through passport control, then collecting of baggage and I passed through customs without any problem. Then searching the crowds for Erika and when I could not see her as I got outside I asked one of the policemen if I could wait in the cordoned off area and he had just agreed when I heard Erika calling me. She had come with her boyfriend by car to meet me and soon we were in the car and on our way to her parents home. Her boyfriend Edgar asked if I had ever seen the beaches of Lima and when I said no he did a big detour and we drove all along the coast road which was flooded in places and it looked beautiful. It was quite a long way to the house but finally we arrived and there Erika introduced me to her Mum, her eldest sister and son, showed me the room where I would be sleeping etc. After freshening up they asked if I would like to see a bit of Lima by night as there would not be much time next day and I said yes I would love to.

We went out for about 3 hours, in taxis to a couple of different places - mostly in the Miraflores area which is a central area and quite pleasant. We walked through a nice park, with little stalls selling all sorts of crafts. I bought a pretty little purse as my first souvenir this visit. We ended up in an outdoor cafe and enjoyed chicken and chips all round and 2 ice cold bottled beers each - Pilsen Callao - which was very nice. Back home again, after cuddling their 6 week old Boxer dog puppy called Laica I decided to go to bed then as finally the tiredness was catching up on me.

One of the main things which brought memories flooding back of my last visit was the exhaust fumes so apparent in the city. Also the enormous and beautiful palm trees everywhere. I had forgotten both these things until I experienced them again. However if I did not already know I was in Peru I sure knew the next morning, being woken up to cocks crowing all over the neighbourhood and a cacophony of barking dogs! I glanced at my watch and it was coming up to 4 am when the first cock crowed and this continued off and on for a while. I managed to doze a bit longer and woke up feeling very refreshed and raring to go just before 6 and after a shower and breakfast with Erika and her Mum who is lovely. Her name is Renee and she is Elva's older sister and I was really pleased that I could understand her Spanish perfectly and we had no difficulties having a long conversation at the breakfast table. She said I was welcome to come and stay any time I wanted.

After breakfast Erika and I came out to sightsee around Lima for a while. This time by bus which is quite an adventure. You have to cling on for dear life because the roads are much more pot holed than back home and if unawares you almost take off out of your seat when going over one of the worst of them! We went to a district called Barranco which is quite ancient and right by the sea, with pleasant parks and a stepped walkway down to a look out point over the sea including going over a quite ancient wooden bridge called The Bridge of Whispers/Sighs.

All the buildings which were closed up either side become a series of restaurants and bars with live music at night and one or two were actually playing music, probably on CDs, but none was Peruvian! Mostly it was English disco music. Even in the car from the airport to Erika's home the music was mainly disco music from back home - e.g. Robin Williams! This is the difference between Peru and Bolivia - in Bolivia you will only hear that fantastic and beautiful altiplano music from the Andes.

We took a few photos and then climbed back to the central area and here I changed 100 dollars into soles as I needed 230 soles for our two single trip bus tickets this afternoon. We are travelling the nicest way, as on the ground floor of the bus there are only 9 seats which recline into beds and we are served an evening meal and can watch unlimited videos. Then we went into a nice shopping area right by the sea, although being Sunday most were closed, only opening at noon on Sundays. We found a brilliant ice-cream shop with about 30 different flavours of ice-cream and we had 2 enormous ones. I chose lucuma ice-cream along with salsamora ice-cream - 2 exotic fruit flavours which are fantastic. Many of the flavours were unknown to me and I am looking forward to being in Ilo when all these actual fruits are available at the markets.

From there we walked to this internet cafe where we are both busy for 1.5 hours. It would have been just an hour but well into my email to you all I suddenly lost the lot. Which of course reminded me of all the times it happened when I was here in 2001, especially if I tried to correct a typing error. That is why I have decided that the typos will have to stay.

We will go back home shortly for a spot of lunch and then to rest a while, before having to arrive at the bus depot of Cruz del Sur by 3 pm for the 3.45 departure. I am so looking forward to seeing Elva and Hugo again 18 months after the last visit. Hugo has taken holiday from work and with luck we will be on the beach shortly after my arrival tomorrow.

The weather here is wonderfully warm and feels almost tropical even though the sun isn't that evident and often isn't here in Lima. There is a fair bit of smog due to the pollution of so many vehicles, and this tends to block out the sun. It is still incredibly warm though. I sure would not want to drive here. No one respects lanes, they overtake on both sides and everyone jostles to get in front of someone else, horns blowing continuously, street sellers trying to sell things whenever one stops due to traffic etc. One little boy was trying to sell me some sweets and Erika said I could not understand him and he said Inglesa and I said yes and he said What is your name One Two. We both thought that was quite funny. I wanted to give him a dollar but Erika said No as we would be inundated with requests otherwise.

Arrival In Ilo.
I came to the internet cafe today intending to write this email whilst the others were at siesta but two thirds of the time elapsed before even starting it. First there were quite a few messages to read, but mainly because my friend in La Paz advised that it is risky going to Bolivia at the moment because of the situation of workers against government, 15 dead in 2 days of protests etc, and I was so devastated that I have spent all my time writing to all my Bolivian friends. I was so looking forward to visiting Bolivia and still feel inclined to go despite risks. My friend wrote again whilst I was still in this internet cafe and said that an agreement might be reached. So I wont be making any decision for a few days. Hopefully the situation will become calmer and I can proceed as planned. I am very fortunate in having two such good friends there - Jorge and Eddy - both of whom are prepared to help to make my trip there as risk-free as possible.

When I left the internet cafe in Lima after writing to you on Tuesday I could not believe the difference in the temperature when we came out after one and a half hours. It was hot before we went in but with the mist that is a feature of the Lima climate. When we came out the sky was deep blue, sun shining, and it was incredibly hot. I caught the sun quite a bit that day just walking about.

We walked to a shop to buy drinks for our journey to Ilo and I picked out several Inka Kolas (a lush drink which tastes like bubblegum and is fizzy), 4 cans of Cusquena beers, Peruvian orange fizzy drinks etc. Then Erika's boyfriend Edgar joined us and we went back to the house and from there went to a restaurant around the corner for lunch. In there it was really difficult to decide what to have, with so many delicious dishes to choose from. In the end I opted for one I had not tried previously - Seco de Cabrito - a delicious goat stew with beans and rice, fried yucca and salad. With it we had cusquenas and Leche de Tigre - Tiger's Milk, which is the juice used from preparing Cebiche mixed with milk, rocoto pepper and other things and is really delicious. After that we just had time to hurry back to the house and grab our luggage and Edgar drove us to the bus depot of Cruz del Sur (Southern Cross) for our bus to Ilo. Luckily we arrived before a big crowd and checked in our luggage and had time for a drink upstairs before boarding the bus. It was such hot weather and thirsty that one could have downed a drink one after the other. Edgar was looking really sad at Erika's departure, not having been separated from her for 5 years. When we said our goodbyes to get on the bus, there was a security guard checking hand baggage and he confiscated our 4 cusquena beers to both mine and Erika's dismay as they were intended to accompany our evening meal that night. However at least we were able to put a smile on Edgar's sad face when I nipped back and gave them to him before boarding the bus.

We were both impressed at the comfort in the bus. This is the second time I have travelled from Lima with Cruz del Sur (they operate all over Peru but it is only out of Lima that these fantastic buses are available). Downstairs there are just 9 seats in 3 rows of a single seat or double seats, all of which recline into beds. Upstairs is like the upstairs of any other bus without such comforts. It is well worth the difference in cost - 115 soles per person travelling downstairs - 90 soles if travelling upstairs. I paid for both mine and Erika's tickets, being really grateful to have her companionship on the trip. She too was happily looking forward to a visit in Ilo, never having been there before.

The bus left at 3.45 and soon people were drawing the curtains and reclining their seats ready for a siesta until supper time. Luckily Erika left our curtain open so I could see the passing scenery as we went. It did not take long until we were in the desert and passing through the odd desert town, some bigger than others. I gave Erika the headphones so that she could listen to one of my CDs and she really loved the music so all the way both of us were listening to music. I had an unlimited supply of music in the mp3 player with the only uncertainty being whether the battery would last for the 17.5 hour trip. It has a battery like a mobile phone battery which needs recharging. (As it happened it did last until I got there).

At 7.30 we were all served with an excellent 3 course evening meal, all served up on a tray like you get on aircraft, with fizzy drinks and coffee or tea to follow. Both before and after the meal, up until nearly midnight we were able to watch videos - to my amazement all of them in English with Spanish subtitles, but I still preferred to listen to music but watched the films and followed the subtitles to see how well I understood everything. After such a long and tiring journey from Bath to Lima, you would have thought I would have slept most of the trip but I was not feeling tired at all and probably only slept just a few hours during the night. I was awake before it got light, listening to my music again, and we had until 9.30 before arival in Ilo.

Erika was by the window and needed to get out to go to the loo, and we both collapsed in fits of giggles because I could not get out of my seat to let her out. With all the seats reclined you had to contort yourself like a limbo dancer to get out of them. Luckily the man in front realized our dilemma and put his seat upright so that we could climb out. At 7.30 we were served a nice breakfast followed by coffee and just after 8 arrived in Moquegua. I could see driving through the streets that everything had been fully rebuilt following the dreadful earthquake there during my last visit. When we left Moquegua we were told it would take 45 minutes to reach Ilo. Both of us were eagerly looking out of the window as we approached Ilo. The whole trip had been through desert and rocky landscape which looks 1000% more lunar than even Lanzarote does, and this terrain continued right until we reached the sea. As soon as we could see the sea in the distance we knew we were shortly arriving in Ilo and in no time we were in the bus station. Both of us really excited when we could see Elva and Hugo awaiting us in the terminal waving like mad. I had some difficulty getting my shoes back on to get off the bus but hardly took any notice at that moment, in all the excitement at seeing Hugo and Elva again. Once off the bus it was hugs all round and sheer delight to see each other again. Once our luggage was reclaimed we all piled into a taxi and were all talking nineteen to the dozen catching up on news etc. Hugo made us laugh when he told us about Elva ringing their son Hugo who is in the USA for 3 months at the moment. She tried to get through to Hugo on the phone and did not realise she was talking to an answering-machine and when she realised, she has been teased unmercifully ever since!!!

Back at the house Hugo carried our things up to our room and Elva said we were welcome to have a shower if we wanted before lunch. I very gladly took her up on this and was glad to get out of the warm clothes I had travelled from England in (apart from a change from sweater to t-shirt in Lima) and it was heaven to have a nice cold shower to cool down and then change into a skirt and camisole after wearing jeans. When I got downstairs Elva exclaimed at the size of my ankles and it was only then that I realised how badly I had been affected by all that travelling. Both ankles were really swollen. Fortunately not giving me any pain but worried me a bit all the same. For that reason Elva insisted that first day be as tranquil as possible.  She insisted I put some of my music on (having fallen in love with it on my last visit) and I needed no second bidding to rush upstairs and grab all the CDs and put 3 into the player!

We had a lovely lunch, preceded by a glass of cusquena each all round before sitting down, Hugo having remembered how much I love this Peruvian beer from Cusco. We had a long leisurely lunch outside in the front courtyard area, ending up with loads of delicious fruit which is plentiful in Ilo and such fantastic exotic varieties. One of the ones taken that day was called Pacay, is about the size of a banana but looks a bit like a giant pea pod. Inside is puffs which look a bit like cotton wool and taste like marsh mallow. I really enjoyed these. And then in the early afternoon it was time for siesta. Elva insisted that it would help my ankles to lie down for a while and she was right. I didn't actually sleep but just listened to music and read my Insight Guide to Peru for a bit until we all got up a couple of hours later. The plan then was for a stroll along the seafront but when I came to put on my shoes it proved impossible as my feet were still quite swollen. Luckily Hugo produced a pair of his sandals which although a bit too big were easy to wear and comfortable compared to my own sandals that were much too tight.

The four of us walked down to the sea, which is just over 5 minutes from their house, and then walked along the seafront for about 20 minutes until we turned into the town by the market. I could hardly wait to see this market again, but being a weekday it was only quite a small affair and several of the stalls were closing or already closed for the day. We went to our favourite fruit stall at the top and the guy recognised me from before and when Elva bought melons (a type only grown in Arequipa) and a stack of the juiciest enormous looking mangoes I have ever seen with a beautiful red gold coloured skin, he chose the best among what he had and presented me with a lima which is like a lime but sweeter when he overheard me telling Elva I had not tried that type before.

From there we strolled through stalls selling things other than food and when I came across a CD stall I ended up buying four which were incredibly cheap - all of them compilations but with some songs by groups unknown to me before - Stasha I will let you know in a separate email soon the exact details of these!

Eventually we had had enough of walking and took a taxi back home. Then we had our evening meal and not long afterwards retired to bed for the night. In such hot weather one felt ready for bed by nightfall. The average temperature in Ilo in these summer months is 28 to 30 degrees - incredibly hot at height of day, but tempered with a slight cool breeze later in the day. It never rains here, being on the edge of the desert. When I asked Hugo he said it sometimes rains in September.

This morning we were all up early, by just after 5 am, as we had decided to go to the beach. We had breakfast at 6.30 and the sun was already pretty high in the sky by then. Elva toasted some lovely bread with a local cheese inside for breakfast and made us juice shakes with papaya, strawberries and a couple of other fruits of which I don't know the name. Then we polished off the delicious cake she had made the day before. Once we had washed our clothes - in the outdoor sink which is the usual practice in Peru - and hung them on the line to dry, we were just getting what we needed together for the beach when the man who was taking us arrived 20 minutes early. After bustling about to get last minute things we were on our way and just a mile or so out of town arrived at a dear little rocky bay with rock strewn sand, arriving there at 9 am, arranging for the man (a neighbour with a big 8-seater van) to come back for us at noon.

As soon as we got down on the beach the others went straight into the sea and were swimming for ages but I contented myself sitting on a rock with my feet immersed in the sea, enjoying the sunshine and listening to my music which was in a pouch hung on a strong leather belt along with camera and purse. A little later Elva's daughter in law Tita arrived by taxi with her brother, and the two children, and we all had a lovely time together on the beach until the neighbour came back to fetch us. When he tried to pull away on the rocky sandy terrain up the hill to get back to the main road, the van went backwards so many times before he got a grip on the ground that we were all quite wide eyed with fright thinking we would go over the edge into the sea, all of us looking mightily relieved when he pulled away and made it up the steep slope to the road!

Back home we had lunch shortly afterwards (which Elva had prepared that morning whilst Erika and I were showering, washing our clothes etc, and again enjoyed this outside along with Cusquenas. She had prepared a lovely pasta dish flavoured with a sauce made from green vegetables and herbs, accompanied by diced chicken breast with tomatoes and herbs, this with one of her excellent salad accompaniments made from broccoli, tomatoes and flavoured with lime juice and salt. After this we shared the melons and had mangoes and pacay until we could hardly move. One could get really healthy living here with all this abundance of fruit and vegetables. After lunch the others went off for their siestas and I came in a taxi here, booking the same taxi to come back for me 3 hours later.

Tomorrow's plan is a visit to Arica in Chile to find out about that train which crosses the Altiplano to La Paz, although it is highly unlikely now that I will take that route to get to Bolivia given the dangerous situation at present. My friend who had warned me of the situation replied whilst I was still here and said it is safer to come by air, that it isn't safe even to be in a taxi whilst the people and police are fighting in the streets, and that another man had died the previous night. He did say though that there were hopes an agreement would be reached between people and government. In light of this I am going to wait a few days and see what is happening before deciding when or if to travel there. The likelihood is that I will still go there, even if only for a couple of days, having set my heart so much on seeing La Paz and my friends there again. I just could not bear to come this far and get so close and not pay just a short visit.

A Morning In Ilo.
We are here in Ilo this morning, having postponed our trip into Chile until tomorrow. Elva suddenly remembered some things that were on today - a fair in the morning on the sea front and some kind of get together this afternoon, hence the change of plan. We have all popped into this internet cafe briefly and as this is the last chance for a couple of days to write I thought I would write a few lines.

Not much to say since yesterday's long message apart from the fact that I am quite alarmed at the size of my ankles. Yesterday Elva insisted that I lie with my legs raised for at least an hour to try and relieve the situation. So I lay on the carpet with my legs up on a pouffee and a pile of pillows before getting into bed but whether it helped or not remains to be seen.

After tea yesterday Elva showed me some herbal infusions she had bought in Arequipa called Dulces Suenos which means Sweet Dreams and she gave me one to help me sleep. It sure worked as well because I slept through 2 hours of cocks crowing this morning, not waking until 6.15. We are all amazed at how well they worked and are on the look out for more. Colin if I can find a source to buy them I will bring some back for you.

I am really enjoying the hot weather, despite the fact that it is probably stopping my ankles from returning to normal. Later in the afternoon and at night a lovely cool breeze tempers the heat which is nice. All the windows are open at all times, with inserts so that air comes in but no mosquito's. I haven't even bothered burning the anti mosquito incense at night. In fact I haven't seen many mosquito's yet although they are about, despite being in the desert. Most of us are suffering from varying degrees of sunburn after 3 solid hours on the beach yesterday. I was okay wherever I put the sun lotion but the bits missed are quite painful. I sunbathed in my bra for a while and have a lacy pattern across the top where the sun penetrated the lace! Apart from walking about in it today in town we are all wary of the sun. Hugo especially keeps crossing the road so that he is walking in the shade!!

Tomorrow we are getting up really early for Tacna which is a border town with Chile, just this side of the border in Peru but we still need to carry our passports in case we are asked for them. It is a duty free town and fun to shop there. I am not sure if we are going to try and visit Arica as well tomorrow or save it for another day. There is no rush now that I have decided on flying to Bolivia rather than crossing the altiplano, plus the fact that I am waiting a few more days before deciding on when to go. The situation there remains unchanged at present, but I am still going even if things don't improve. I know I will regret it if not. Unfortunately Aquiles is in Lima at the moment otherwise I might have gone to Cusco first and then on to Bolivia. Claire has written saying his Mum and Danilo are awaiting me but I will probably go a bit later when Aquiles and his Dad are back home.

Our weekly shop in the market is postponed to Sunday because of tomorrow's jaunt. I am really looking forward to it because at weekends the market swells to enormous proportions with products arriving from all over Peru and Bolivia including the jungle. There is also a large fair and market in another part of Ilo on Mondays.

I imagine tomorrow will be pretty tiring what with the bus journey each way and walking around in both Tacna and Arica, plus we have to ensure we get back to the border in time because there is a 2 hour time difference between Peru and Chile with Chile 2 hours later. The border closes at 10 pm Chile time, thus 8 pm Peru time. I will probably put my feet up a couple of hours this evening to help offset all tomorrow's activity. Last night it was great to watch a good film on telly. They have cable television and on one of the channels all the films are in English with Spanish sub titles. It was a really good film too.

A Daytrip To Tacna.
It is Sunday afternoon and here I am again at Navigantes internet cafe in Ilo. The past couple of days since I last wrote have been excellent and this was the first opportunity to write anything since Friday.

When I left the internet cafe on Friday I got home just in time for lunch which was one of my favourites. Elva had made Papa Relleno for lunch, a delicious mixture of finely diced pork and vegetables with chopped hard boiled egg and olives all wrapped in a smooth mashed potato coating and then fried until golden. Elva had made us five each and none of us could move after that lot. She really is an excellent cook and part of the joy of being in her house is the excellent meals she serves up. She is wonderful too in ensuring that anything she gives me does not contain the things I don't like - eg making sure that there are no carrots in my vegetable soup or caldo, no olives in my papa relleno - she made mine separately!!!

Also with our meal we had large glasses of cognac with coke, which was taken to a new dimension of enjoyment with the addition of freshly squeezed limon juice added. The 'limons' here are like a cross between our lemons and limes and are used to flavour lots of things. Their 'limas' which translates as limes are sweet and nothing like ours back home.

After this and bearing in mind that the next day would be quite tiring I decided I would take siesta as well that afternoon. I could not believe it when I woke later to find I had slept 4 whole hours - and so deeply that Elva was unable to wake me up in time for the women's get-together at 4.30 that afternoon! Those Dulce Suenos must still have been working!

In the evening we went to Hugo's brother's house, a 10 minute walk away and very pleasant with a light sea breeze to cool us after the heat of the day. We were made very welcome there and it was great to see them again after so long. No sooner than we were seated inside then we were enjoying bowls of delicious ice-cream and after that large glasses of cognac, coke and limon juice!!! We spent a couple of pleasant hours with them and will see them again on Monday (tomorrow) at Hugo's sister's birthday celebration which I think is taking place on some beach near here. Back home we went to bed quite early, by 10 pm, in view of our early start next day.

I slept okay until 5 am (having taken another Dulce Suenos infusion to make sure after that long siesta) and we were all ready and out of the house by 6 am. From there by taxi to the bus depot and onto the bus for Tacna which was leaving around 6.30. Tacna is 151 kilometres from Ilo which is just under 100 miles, and this would take around two and a half hours. The bus was nothing like the one in which we travelled from Lima - more a really clapped out ancient affair, but very cheap at only 6 soles per person.

I opted to sit on the sunny side of the bus by the window - which no one complained about as they all seek to sit in the shade!!! The journey to Tacna was again through the desert and in no time I was asleep and slept nearly all the way there! We pulled into Tacna just after 9 am and from there got straight into a taxi to get to a restaurant where we were all more than ready for breakfast. Breakfast in Peru is as substantial as lunch and while the others chose steak, I chose Pollo Milanesa which we enjoyed with salad and chips and shared a two litre bottle of chilled Inca Kola. Whilst eating, street sellers popped in with wares for sale and I bought myself a lovely watch. It was such a tremendous bargain that Hugo bought one as well. Outside afterwards I bought another one, this time for my Mum.

From there we took another taxi to one of the many shopping centres and the next couple of hours we were in shoppers heaven. Tacna being a border town is duty free and there are excellent bargains to be had. Just about everything imaginable is available here and all at stupendous prices. I ended up changing money 3 times and spent nearly 150 dollars which means being really careful the next few weeks but it was worth it for the things I bought, which included some lovely purses (I found when I got home that I had bought 8 but they only last a year or less and I have an abundant supply to last me until my next visit. They would probably last longer but the zips usually fail after a while).

I also bought another 10 CDs, half of these being one 3CD set called 'Cuzco - Musica Mistica del Imperio de Los Incas' and a 2CD set by Los Jaivas, an excellent rock music band from Chile. The others were compilations plus two by Inti Illimani and Kjarkas that I did not have in my collection.

A bit later on I fell in love with a beautiful Peruvian dress on a model and looked at it longingly but never dreaming it would fit. The shop seller insisted I try it on and to my amazement it fit perfectly so I just had to buy it and look forward to wearing it back home! They also sold beautiful leather bags with Peruvian designs but I declined on one of those when I realised the price translated as 55 dollars.

There were artesanel craft shops as well as all the other types of shops and we all bought some lovely things from a Cusquena lady and her daughter. These two delightful people are coming to Ilo soon and Elva gave them her telephone number as we both hope to see them again. I hope they come whilst I am still in Ilo. I also bought two warm nightgowns as the ones available here are perfect for cold winters back home. I just hope I can get everything in my suitcase which needed a war dance performed on it to close it before leaving home.

At 1 pm we went back to the same restaurant for lunch as the owner - Simon - is well known to Hugo and Elva and he was happy to look after all our shopping bags for the rest of the day. I was still full up from breakfast so had no appetite to eat much. I asked for soup and they produced one which I did not like much so just took the chicken portion out of it and had that. What I did enjoy was sharing the two 1.1 litre bottles of ice cold Cusquena beers we shared with the meal.

After lunch we went for a stroll, keeping to the shade wherever we could because it was incredibly hot. We took photos in the Plaza des Armas and in front of the Cathedral and relaxed on seats under the palm tree lined central paved walkway with an ice-cream each later on. One of the things I was looking for but did not find that day was a 10 CD-Rom set called Todo Peru with images from every part of Peru. This is something I dearly hope to find while I am here so that I can enjoy seeing all these beautiful places again back home and show them to my friends. But I did manage to find Dulce Suenos and bought 2 boxes to take back home for Colin.

Finally when we were all really tired and had had enough of shopping we took a taxi back to the terminal and caught the bus back to Ilo, this time a more modern bus but still cheap at only 8 soles per person. Again I sat on the sunny side of the bus and the view out of the window was amazingly different than that coming. The road followed the coast all the way home and we were never out of sight of the sea, sometimes really close. We passed fishing villages and stopped at one or two, each time sellers getting on the bus to sell drinks, cooked food and other snacks. Gradually the sun began to set over the sea and it looked really beautiful. We finally arrived back in Ilo about 7 pm with everyone on their feet before the bus even arrived at the depot! Then straight into a taxi, and the driver kindly stopped briefly on the way home first so that Elva could buy two types of bread and something from another shop. Then back home it did not take her long to get supper on the table which we had leisurely, whilst listening to some of the music I had bought. I played the 3CDset of Cuszo Imperial music of the Incas first and have not been able to stop playing it ever since. All of us were stunned at what beautiful music is on those CDs, really ethereal altiplano music full of power and mysticism. I today lent them to Hugo's elder son so that he could make a copy for Hugo. Stasha, I will let you know details of all 14 CDs as soon as I can which might be a while because last night I wrote them out and it took ages.

Today was another early start. I was up by 5 and ready by 6 am. We left the house at ten to seven and went by taxi to mass at their local church. This service was really delightful. The church was packed with people and the service full of joyful singing to the accompaniment of guitar music. It is a Roman Catholic church and very similar to Catholic or high church back home, including the shaking of hands and bestowing wishes for peace to everyone around us.

Afterwards we went home for breakfast and then went straight out again - this time to the weekend market to get the week's shopping. All of us went and it was great to be in that bustling market again and see the people I remembered from last time (all of whom had regularly asked Elva about me). I got quite busy taking photos and took a few on request by various sellers, promising that once developed back home I would send a copy to Elva to pass on to them. Each time a couple of carrier bags were filled, Hugo took them to Mario's shop who looked after them for us, until by the time we had finished we had about 10 carrier bags full of things - many of them full of exotic fruit and vegetables. Mario and the taxi driver helped us carry everything to the taxi and back home we discovered one of the bags had been left behind, so Erika and I hopped onto a passing bus and went back to get it. It had somehow been left in the walkway near Mario's shop and it is a tribute to the honesty of the people there that it was handed to Mario and he was looking after it when we went back for it. Elva was really pleased when we went back with it. By this time she had washed all the fruit and put it away and had lunch pretty well ready. Willy, Tita and the children arrived shortly afterwards and we had lunch outside in the courtyard again, even though Willy could smell some kind of gas smell near the gate into the house. He said this happens occasionally and it isn't a problem to one's health unless one is asthmatic.

Nora's Birthday Celebration on the Beach.
Yesterday 20th January was Nora's birthday (Hugo's sister) and we spent it in the most delightful way imaginable. At 9.30 am Hugo's brother Rollo and his wife came for us in two cars. We took with us loads of food that Elva had prepared, plus Rollo's wife brought another lot, wine, soft drinks etc and we set off on the drive towards Chile to the beach about 60 miles distant from Ilo where Nora and her husband Lucho have a house right on the beach.

I travelled in the Jeep with Rollo and Hugo with the others following in the second car and it was a pleasant drive, again following the coastline on that excellent road across the desert - made even better with the music that Rollo put into his CD player – he produced a CD by Raul Garcia Zarate called Guitarra de Peru, a 1997 album, which was brilliant. Driving through the sunshine with this accompaniment was pure pleasure. Near our destination we had to stop and pay a toll which was the first time I realised that sometimes one pays tolls in Peru (probably only on motorway type roads just like in France). On the way we passed a hydro electric station which supplies electricity to as far away as Lima when needed. We also passed little oases where herds of goats were allowed to roam, tethered and enclosed in coral type structures at night, their owners camping nearby in either tents or other temporation accommodations made from plaited reeds. It is quite amazing to come across these green areas in an otherwise arid environment but Rollo explained that there are many underground springs that come to the surface which is why the goatherds bring their animals to graze there.

Eventually we arrived, turned off the road down a dirt track which eventually led to the beach resort where Nora and Lucho have a house, this being one of several there, all completely detached from each other. We entered the house through the back entrance to the most enchanting house one can possibly imagine, all on a seaside theme. The house is brick-built and with quite thick stone walls inside and stone floors, really cool and spacious with big windows at the front overlooking the sea. To the right of the lounge is a veranda and we sat out there first of all and shared an excellent bottle of white wine which is produced in Ica. Afterwards we were shown around the house which they recently bought and all of us were really impressed with its beauty. A lounge and adjoining dining area, kitchen, bathroom, several bedrooms, all on one level. I especially fell in love with the lounge which has had a mosaic chimney and fireplace added, as they intend to still visit this house even in the winter at weekends. With wind-chimes made of seahorses and fish and a coffee table which had a layer of sand inside and a wonderful selection of shells and other things, including angelfish, from the sea, the simple style of decor etc, all of us fell intensely in love with that house. And incredibly its cost is only 10,000 dollars, an incredibly cheap price even for Peru (a similar house in Ilo would exceed 30,000 dollars).

Best of all was the vista from the lounge windows and veranda, the sea only feet from the door (20 yards no more), with lots of rocks and the sea crashing onto them. It was so mesmerising to watch the sea and realise how dense that sea is with fish by the wheeling seabirds en masse. Around the house the sand was several inches deep in sea shells of every possible colour and description, absolutely beautiful.

After our wine everyone decided to bathe in the sea, 200 meters away where there was a beautiful sandy bay.  Before leaving the house Lucho lugged a huge bag out into the front patio which I thought was maybe some kind of heating fuel for the barbeque. They all went into the sea except Erika and me - we were happy just to relax on the rock with the sea approaching within inches and I took photos of them plus all the other Peruvians enjoying themselves in the sea. There was a bit of surf - a bit like at Whitesands, near St Davids in North Pembrokshire and children were really enjoying themselves with their little surfboards just like my kids used to at Whitesands beach.

They stayed in the sea about half an hour, which was rich in abundant sea life. Lucho brought me a Mumuy to see but I recoiled at touching it because it resembled a large grey beetle with a quite hard shell, but Erika played with it for ages before releasing it into a rocky sandy puddle in the rocks where it quickly burrowed into the sand. Lucho said these are delicious to eat.

By the time they came out of the sea everyone was quite hungry so we returned to the house for lunch, some of us relaxing on the verandah with a couple of Cusquena beers which we had with large corn on the cobs (a larger variety than back home, served up with cheese). I don´t like corn much so just enjoyed the cheese. We had this on the verandah whilst the rest of the food was being reheated for the table. Before this they all went out onto the front patio and I then realised what the large bag was. It was called a solar shower. You fill this bag with water and leave it in the sun for a few hours. There was a shower with no sides on the patio and Lucho hooked the bag above this, turned the nozzle and then one by one they all had a warm shower out of doors before changing out of their swimwear into their clothes. What a great idea isn't it! I have never seen anything like that before.

We then enjoyed a long leisurely lunch. First we had tamales but not being a lover of corn I did not like these much either (!) They are made of a maize dough and stuffed with meat and olives. I managed a little of it though. With the meal we enjoyed an excellent red wine from Chile, a really full bodied and superb wine which was a perfect accompaniment for the main course which was a delicious spicy chicken dish prepared that morning by Elva which was accompanied by a delicious type of yellow potato (there are around 300 varieties of different potatoes available here) with salad and that delicious aji amarillo salsa that is served as a condiment with everything here. I just love it and although hot I smothered my potato in it. I love that taste so much. I have seen where to buy it in jars in Ilo for only 4 soles a jar which is under a pound, compared to the 10 pounds it costs buying it from the USA by the time you add on postage. It is quite heavy as the jars are made of glass. Elva is keeping and washing up plastic ketchup and mustard bottles which I will transfer it into just before travelling home from Lima to England, so that I have at least a year's supply once I am back home. I also intend to bring back as many dried ones as I can carry!

After the meal it was time for siesta. Lucho went off down the beach a few meters and erected a large awning big enough for all of us to sit under it and we took an assortment of cushions, towels etc and all stretched out in the sun facing the sea - all of them just far enough back to be in the shade and me right at the front to get the full benefit of the sun. We all relaxed and dozed for a few hours before deciding to go back to the house. We then enjoyed a pot of coffee and slices of Elva's fantastic homemade cake. All in all it was an absolutely perfect perfect day which we all enjoyed tremendously. Nora was delighted with the presents we gave her as well.

In the early evening we drove back and it was lovely to see the sun gradually setting over the sea. We listened to music all the way and I simply could not take my eyes off the sea as the day gradually faded into dusk, the sun a bright orange ball in the sky reflected in the sea. A few miles from Nora's we had to pull into an obligatory customs check area but were lucky on this occasion to be waved through without having to stop. I had carried by passport with me just in case but the police there were more interested in their cigarette break than checking our vehicles. We got back to Ilo about 7 pm and once indoors Elva soon had supper on the table!!! I could hardly eat a thing I was so full from the day, insisting she reduce my soup bowl to one a quarter the size! Then a pleasant evening, partly on the internet where each of us read our messages, but here in Peru house internet access is very expensive, much more than we pay at home, and very very slow because so many people are online here. It is incredible that internet access is so cheap in internet cafes when the same access at home via the phone is so expensive. When I told them about broadband access for around 40 dollars a month at home they thought that was cheap!

That morning before we set out Elva had gone to the DHL office to send a package to her son in Green Bay, USA which is near Alaska and we were amazed at how much it cost. It would have been much cheaper to send it by post but most parcels get lost from Peru to outside (which is amazing when the ones sent to addresses in Peru always arrive) plus it would have taken 20 days to get there. DHL takes only 3 days, trackable on the internet, but 3 kilos of items (a poncho, light jacket, thin alpaca sweater and a few CDs) cost them 120 dollars to send it, which translates at about 80 pounds and 7 or 8 times more than the value of the goods sent. Incredible isn't it!

Today when we woke up it was to one of the hottest days yet, probably in excess of 30 degrees centigrade (yesterday was about 25) and there was no electricity. It had been switched off all over Ilo at 5 am and would not be back until about midday. Elva had all the fruits prepared in the blender ready for our daily morning breakfast juice and was unable to make it due to the lack of electricity. I am going to miss her juices when I leave - they are stupendous, all completely pure fresh fruit, no sugar added and at least five different exotic fruits blended together. They are thick like our smoothies and incredibly delicious. Luckily the main stove she cooks on is the size of an Aga with several gas burners so she was still able to prepare those delicious toasted cheese rolls that we have most mornings, accompanied by a delicious chocolate drink she prepares on the stove with lots of spices added, cinnamon sticks etc. It was at this point that I realised I had been bitten on both ankles by mosquitoes during the night - possibly during those few moments outside whilst I held the torch while Hugo gathered some washing in. Thank goodness I am well protected against malaria by the tablets I have been taking since a week or so before travelling from UK. My ankles finally went back to their normal size after the travel to get here and hopefully won't swell up again due to the mosquito bites!

I wanted to come to the internet cafe this morning and we had no idea how long the electricity would be switched off at that point, so Hugo and I decided to walk into town and hope it would be operational by then. We walked part of the way and then hailed a taxi which is when we learned the electricity was off until midday. So we went strolling instead, through some little market areas and snack bars where locals eat, and when we came across a little travel agency I decided to go in and enquire about flights to both Cusco and La Paz, and then decide which to travel onto next later in the week.

The lady wrote down the prices, times of departure and arrival etc. A single flight from Arequipa to Cusco was quite reasonable with Aero Continente and the earliest I could book for was Friday, as 3 days notice are needed. I also got the price and times for return trip by air from Cusco to La Paz and back. If only it was safe to go by road like it is back home though. On the cheap minibus transport I could have reached La Paz in seven hours, changing once on the way, for about a fiver. The only problem being the insecurity of one's luggage - all of which is with me at the moment. This is chucked up on the roof of the minibus and could be lost on the way, the bumpy state of some of the pot holed roads, so not worth the risk unless one was travelling with just a backpack and a big padlock to secure it to the roof-rack, none of which I have with me. Instead, going via Cusco and then to La Paz and back to Cusco is going to cost around 200 pounds. The only problem that then emerged was that I could not pay for my Cusco flight by credit card as no one uses credit cards in Ilo anymore, the vendors not liking the percentage they have to pay to Visa. I did not want to deplete the funds I was carrying by so much so we decided to ask in the bank if I could obtain cash using my credit card. As we got to the bank a friend of Hugo who works there was just arriving and when we asked him he said it would be possible. I did not have the credit card with me so we had to get a taxi back to the house to get it. Back at the bank the friendly teller showed me how to use it to get cash out of the machine outside using my pin number. In two goes I was able to get out 400 dollars which is almost 300 pounds, enough to pay for my forthcoming flights and hotel costs in Bolivia and supplement the funds I am already carrying. My biggest dread is running out of cash and now that I am 100% sure that I can obtain money in Peru it is such a relief. I used my debit card rather than a usual credit card which means the money will come from my bank account rather than be a credit card debt and hopefully will prevent the bank from imposing a commission on it.

After this we went to a telephone shop and Hugo looked up Aquiles' family telephone number in Yellow Pages (Paginas Amarillas!) and got through to Aquiles Mum. He explained about the flight on Friday and arrival time and then handed the phone to me and I was able to chat with her easily. She sounded lovely and welcoming and I look forward to meeting her for the first time. I did not see her last time because she was in Switzerland at that time at the home of her eldest son. She assured me that both she and Danilo would be there at the airport on Friday to meet my plane.

So we went back to the travel agency and booked and paid for my flight. I decided not to book the onward return flight La Paz-Cusco-La Paz then, preferring to wait until just before time of intended travel to gauge the situation there then. The lady in the travel agency assured me though that things have calmed down. Apparently these protests are a way of life which flare up from time to time, not worrying the local population. All my Bolivian friends have responded and as a result I am not so worried as I was about going there.

After this, knowing that the internet cafe was still closed, Hugo said how about a beer, so we went to a small bar. By this time Erika had caught up with us and the three of us enjoyed a reasonably cool beer. We had planned to have ice-cream as well but couldn’t because all their ice-cream had melted in the heat! We enjoyed the beer so much that we ended up having another and then hailed a taxi home, arriving just in time for another of Elva's excellent lunches. Another thing I am going to miss is the excellent salads she serves up with every meal. Today's consisted of about 10 different salad vegetables, including spinach leaves sliced really thin, thin green beans finely sliced, tomato, parsley, lettuce, radish and a couple of excellent salad vegetables that come from the jungle, one of them I think is called Yakon and incredibly tasty. We were able to enjoy music with our lunch, as by now the electricity was back on and we listened to the Inti Illimani one I had bought in Tacna, an excellent Big Hits (Grandes Exitos) one from 1997 that I did not have in my collection. I have over 30 CDs by this group though. Afterwards Elva and I went to the market as I am cooking lunch for tomorrow. To save time I am cooking it tonight and we can warm it up tomorrow when we get back from the beach. We have decided to spend the morning at English Bay (yes it really is called that and when I asked why, Hugo said it could be from the pirates who moored their ships near there in centuries gone by. Whether he was teasing me or not I am not sure!!! This is the beach where we went last Thursday the day after my arrival here. If tomorrow is anywhere near as hot as today a morning will be plenty long enough. Poor Erika is still suffering from the sunburn she got that day through not putting on suntan lotion. Mostly people use Factor 40 here, but my F25 has protected me well in all the sun exposure so far, with only sore bits here and there where I missed coverage.

In the market I was impressed anew with the lovely friendly people there. I am making chicken curry tomorrow and Elva has all the spices except ground coriander which is pretty well impossible to get here. We asked at several stalls and at one were chatting to the man and his daughter running it and he was so nice and chatty and said it really touched his heart when we told him that Elva and I had met via the internet. He then presented me with a dried fruit from his stall something like a date but much larger which was really delicious. These people here are lovely and if I didn’t already know how much I love the people here, an incident like this underlines it even more.

Last Message From Ilo And Some Recipes.

Yesterday was such a full day that only one hour could be spared at the internet cafe, which was only long enough to read my messages and reply to one or two individual ones. I hope I can remember what happened the day before yesterday: so much happens that at the time of writing the communal emails I omit a few things and of course it is too late to add those details later. A few examples of omissions include a) filling in my customs declaration on the plane just before landing in Lima. It was only at this point that I realised one was only permitted to take one music player into the country, so I was worried to death about having one confiscated. Had it come to choosing I would have retained the mp3 player, but my CD walkman is a really good one too and I would have been utterly dismayed to lose it. I sure hope I won't have any problems getting both back home.

Relaxing on the beach

I certainly I cannot extol high or often enough what a fantastic country it is here in Peru. I love everything about it but first of all I adore the people here. Although there are robbers and people who would attack, this is more than compensated by the warm hearted friendliness and honesty of genuine people. Being able to speak the language and understand it as well as I do now means I can enjoy repartee with these people to the maximum, e.g. this morning in the market. Hugo was buying eggs from Diomedes who runs her favourite fruit stall. The last lot had double yokes in every egg. So when Hugo asked for his best eggs I piped up with 'yes really good ones with double yokes!' We all had a good laugh over that. In Elva and Hugo's house the totalness of their hospitality is incredible. I feel so at home, like a loved member of their family, we tease each other and always greet each other in the mornings with a hug. One doesn't feel embarrassed eating breakfast in one's pyjamas. They love my music and we have it playing whenever we are at home. The whole family are wonderful and I am going to really miss them when I leave tonight. They are hoping I can come back before going home but it is doubtful there will be time as a third of my holiday has whizzed by already. Elva's love for everyone around her is also portrayed in how she worries about the 'vigilante', the young man whose job it is to watch over her house plus 9 others for 12 hours a day. There are two of them, one doing the dayshift and one doing the night shift. Each household pays 40 soles per month, but many of Elva's neighbours don't pay up and she is always worrying on how they manage on so little. She tries to make up for her neighbours' short comings by giving them the odd bottle of wine, inviting them to lunch sometimes, offering them a cup of coffee if she sees them near the gate. Look out later in this email for the story I will relate about the children of Samoa - it will melt your heart as it did mine. All their family are wonderful and it really will be a wrench to leave them.

This message will probably be a bit longer than usual as I have 4 recipes of Elva's to type into it. People have been replying and commenting on how great the food sounds so I wrote out a few of Elva's recipes which use easily obtainable ingredients at home and have decided to put them in this email and then onto my website so that as many others as possible can make and enjoy them too.

Fortunately the violent protests in Bolivia seem to have calmed down at the moment. I hope it will still be the case when I go which will probably be either 28th or 29th January. I will fly because at least I can get there in one go. By road, if campesinos cause blockages one could get stranded halfway!

Well, trying to remember what happened the day before yesterday is proving a bit elusive. That would have been Tuesday, the day after Nora's birthday celebration, and my mind has simply gone blank about what we did in the daytime. I hope maybe I already wrote about it as a continuation of Nora's celebration, in my last email. What does stand out about that day is the wonderful surprise I had in the evening. I had just given Elva some of the CDs brought with me from UK and she had asked me to put them on, and I was just in the act of doing so when the doorbell rang and she answered. Next minute Elva was calling me say, 'Angela, come quickly and see who has come to see you'. When I went out to the gate I was delighted to see Coco who is a friend of Hugo's and used to work in the same company. I met him on my last visit and enjoyed his company so much. Right from the moment of being introduced we were teasing each other and talking nineteen to the dozen - the last time in English but this time totally in Spanish. Coco is really tiny so I immediately started calling him Cocito which means 'little Coco'. Stood next to me he only comes to my shoulder, but is a giant when it comes to personality, a real fun person to be with. I was delighted that he had decided to visit spontaneously like that. He lives quite far away out on the Pampa, and only had a vague idea of when I would be arriving. He had not seen Hugo since before Christmas, so it was only by guesswork that he worked out when to visit.  I was really pleased he made the effort, not being that sure when I was arriving.

He stayed with us the whole evening. Within moments of him arriving Hugo produced a jugful of brandy mixed with coca cola and lime juice with ice cubes, and one glass. The custom here is to pour a drink into one glass and down it in one and then hand the glass to the next person and this glass circulates umpteen times until the jug is empty. He stayed to supper as well which we all enjoyed in the outdoor courtyard. Their huge ping pong table doubles as an outdoor dining table and would seat about 16 people. Hugo rigged up an extra speaker to bring the music outdoors, and during the evening we got through about three jugfuls of Hugo's cognac mix, eventually resorting to a glass each as I wanted to savour the taste instead of downing it in one each time. Also during the evening I made the chicken curry in readiness for our lunch next day (as curry improves if cooked, left a while and is then reheated). Luckily Elva helped with the preparations so that it did not take too long before it was cooking away on the stove. As well as inviting Coco to join us on the beach we had also invited him to lunch.

Cocito stayed until about 11.30 when it was doubtful he would catch the last minibus back to his home on the pampa, but failing that could always pay for a taxi. The best was that he agreed to take the day off work next day and come with us to the beach. Because we were intending to get there early he declined Elva's invitation to join us for breakfast first, saying he would meet us at the beach. He too told me that English Bay is so named because of the English pirates in days gone by. At the time when smuggling brandy was a big concern between UK and France, nearby Moquegua also contributed by producing much of the cognac that ended up in France. At that time there were 120 places producing cognac in and around Moquegua. He told me that this internet cafe where I come which is called Navigantes has their own web-pages with a bit about the history of Ilo. I haven't had time to look yet, but am hoping there is something about this on those pages. For anyone interested in taking a look their url is http://www.navigantes.com

Yesterday morning we were up early as per usual. Elva is up every morning at 5, and I usually take my shower at 6 with Hugo and Erika showering afterwards. By the time we get downstairs our freshly whizzed glasses of juice are on the breakfast table, our breakfast prepared, and by this time she has also prepared everything she is going to cook for the whole day, including preparing the salad (only adding the lime juice and salt just before lunch). She is amazingly organised. When we sit down to breakfast she pours out our breakfast special beverage which is a delicious  chocolate drink enhanced beyond belief with a variety of sweet exotic spices. The resulting mixture is then sieved and poured into mugs. It is so delicious that I must make a note of what goes into it - to be relayed in a further email! I am really going to miss her cooking when I go. By this time, around 7 am, the sun is high in a very blue sky with another hot day to look forward to.

We left the house at 8 on the dot and this time went to English Bay by taxi which only cost 4 soles. As we were getting out of the taxi Elva asked the taxi driver to come back for us at 11.45 and he said he would. We were the first to arrive at the beach and all of us were dismayed to find that hundreds if not thousands of tiny sea creatures had been stranded all over the beach by the receding tide. They looked a bit like prawns but similar to crabs with pincers and the ones moving about in the water moved a bit like frogs. We did our best to rescue some of them but were reluctant to pick them up with our bare hands in case they pinched or bit us! Trying to coax them onto flat stones and then get them into the water was not easy and in the end we had to give up because there were so many of them. Had we spent the whole morning doing this we would not have saved all of them and many were already dying through having been stranded without water for an indeterminate length of time.

The tide was on its way back in so we could only hope it would be in time to save a few more. We all found rocks to sit on right on the sea edge, with our feet dangling in the sea. I had decided this time that I would go into the sea even though I had no swimming costume with me. I had purposely worn a skirt and top that I knew would dry easily in the sun. Soon enough the others were in the sea and coaxing me to join them but I said I only really wanted to go in once and would wait for Coco's arrival. In preparation for this I did wade in for a bit to get used to the water, tying the bottom of my skirt into a ball so that it would not balloon up around me. About half an hour later Coco arrived and all of us went into the sea and had a great time. I went in up to my neck but managed to keep my hair dry, and it was so refreshing after the warmth of the sun. Back on the beach again it did not take long for my clothes to dry on me as there was a slight sea breeze which speeded up the process.

After a while a man and his young grandson appeared with two dogs and we had a lot of fun watching the dogs. It really looked as if one dog was trying to teach the other to swim. They jumped off the path along one side of the little bay into the water and the dog being taught did not hold its head up high enough in the water and looked as though it was struggling to swim. The other dog kept biting it on the underside of its neck and thus made the dog lift up its head. They did this about three times in the next hour and we were rolling about laughing each time it happened. Each time both dogs were rewarded with food from their masters.

A little later I spotted some delightful little lizards running on nearby rocks and wanted to get a bit closer to try and take photos. I set off, unfortunately without first putting on shoes and almost did a wardance on the sand which was too hot to bear with the sun having beaten down on it. After a while I reached the rocks and thence the path on the other side of this little bay and by this time Coco had caught up with me to help me over the worst rocks to the ledge. This must have looked most comical to anyone watching, tiny Coco helping someone twice his size to keep their balance. Had I slipped no way could he have done anything but slip as well!!! Anyhow we did manage to get alot closer to these dear little creatures, each of which was about 4 inches long (10 cm) grey in colour to blend in with the rocks but with black and white markings on their back. I took two photos but even though quite close, you will still probably need a magnifying glass to see them in the expanse of a whole photo!

We stayed on the beach until about 11.35 and then climbed back up the steep slope to the road, with time to take a photo there. Taxis were passing and tooting their horns but we waved them all on, preferring to wait for the guy who had promised to come back for us and sure enough, he arrived right on the dot of 11.45 and 10 minutes later we were back at home.

... Back at the house, Elva finished off lunch preparations, reheating the curry and adding the last ingredients earlier prepared, whilst Erika and Hugo laid the table outside and Coco and I went off to the local shop to get some Cusquenas to go with the meal. Unfortunately there were only 8 bottles chilled so we bought those hoping it would be enough.

As you can imagine a cold cusquena was heaven after a hot morning at the beach and a perfect accompaniment to my chicken curry which everyone enjoyed immensely. We had this with rice and one of Elva's excellent salads, followed by moutains of fruit, enjoying a leisurely lunch with music on a speaker extension Hugo rigged up and placed on the table. When the beers ran out Coco went off and got more supplies from another local shop. Afterwards Coco accompanied me to local markets to look for one or two items I was still searching for. We found the first item in the first market we came to - a CD carry case with inner pockets to hold 96 CDs. With the ones I had brought from UK, less several given to Elva, plus the 14 bought so far, the one of R G Zarate copied for me and the 10 CDs of Todo Peru (10 CDs full of photos from all over Peru), this case presently holds 36 CDs with room for 60 more. Somehow I don't think I will have too much difficulty filling it up, especially if I encounter places where I can buy CDs at very reasonable prices - as evidenced up until now. It is only in Bolivia that I will probably have to pay about 10 pounds per CD. Here in Peru unless you buy what is currently in the charts the prices are quite a bit less. The other item took a bit of searching for in hardware shops, market areas etc but eventually we succeeded in finding one. It is a hand held juicer made of inoxidable aluminium and was an incredible bargain at 8 soles. I already have one at home but it is too small. The limons here are a fair bit smaller than our limes at home. I found one big enough to juice oranges and will thus be perfect for both lemons and limes back home.

By the time we got back to the house it was to find that Elva had been busy baking again and was just in the act of taking two cakes out of the oven as we got home. The five of us shared one of them with a glass of coca cola, really enjoying the cake. I love them when they are still hot from the oven and this one is exceptional. This is one of four recipes which will be included at the end of this email - time and electricity supplies permitting - all Elva's recipes. If you decide to make any of them I can guarantee you will enjoy them as much as I do. They are reeeeekeeeeeesimo! (that is not really how it is spelt but how it is pronounced!!!!) - It means beyond delicious.

After this, Coco took his leave of us and as soon as he had gone the rest of us whizzed out and took a taxi to town as I was not the only one needing to visit an internet cafe - they too wanted to write to their son in Green Bay, USA. We only had time for an hour because we had to get back by 6 pm.  This was only time to read my messages and reply to one or two. And I was delighted to receive via my sister Tracy, my Mum's special Christmas Cake recipe which is for Elva - thank you Mum and Tracy so much for this - Elva was delighted when I gave it to her (even more so when I translated it later that evening). I wrote out the recipe for that day's cake as well, with Elva showing me the ingredients to save me looking up words in the dictionary.

We got back to the house at the same time as Willy, Tita and their adorable two little girls arrival. (Vanessa and Veronica aged 5 and 3). They had come to wish me a safe journey and say goodbye because of my imminent departure tonight, and presented me with a beautiful poster of Machu Picchu which is destined to be pinned to the wall next to my computer at work! We all had a soft drink together and more of Elva's yummy cake, until 7 pm when Willy and Tita and children departed, with profuse hugs all round and Tita's promise to write me letters often and pass them to her husband to type into the computer as emails! After they left we spent 10 minutes changing into fresh clothes - me wearing the beautiful Cusquena dress purchased in Tacna - and walked down to Rollo's house where we had been invited to share the evening meal with them.

We then spent a lovely evening in Rollo and Majuka's house. Within moments Majuka produced a blenderful of a fantastic Peruvian cocktail called Pisco Sour. This is made with Pisco (Peruvian brandy) with whisked egg whites, lime juice, angostura bitters and maybe some other ingredients, all whisked in a blender, poured into glasses with chocolate sprinkled on top. Before we took the first sip of the first one Rollo proposed a toast and speaking for all of them wished me a safe journey, saying what a pleasure it had been to get to know me, and hoping that I would come back again soon. I felt very moved by this as you can imagine. We had 3 each of these cocktails during the evening!

Whilst last minute dinner preparations were going on, Rollo took me into his computer room and showed me a series of photos he had on screen and explained the story behind them which is so lovely that it brought tears to my eyes. Here now is the story. A couple of months before last Christmas his sister Nora and her husband Lucho visited a small village in the selva near Moquegua called Samoa and ascertained the names and ages of every child living there - 35 of them all together. Then with great care and attention set about filling boxes with a Christmas box of presents for each and every child, each item selected personally for each individual child. These were then gaily wrapped in Christmas paper and they hired a truck to carry the pile of gifts and drove it to the village and distributed them to all the children. The photos illustrated this and it was truly wonderful to see. Looking at the joy on the children's faces, and the immense smiles of happiness of their mothers and grandmothers was very moving indeed. After seeing this it made me realise that the world is really a special place with people like this in it. Anyhow I asked Rollo later in the evening if I could have a copy of these pictures and include them on my website and he readily agreed and this morning gave me a floppy disk with the images. Hopefully at some point either before or after my return you will see this series of photos too and understand why I was so moved.

We then had an excellent supper of Peruvian roast chicken (chicken cooked in a broaster a la Brasa) with salad, chips and aji amarillo salsa, accompanied by a couple of Cusquenas and to my delight Rollo presented me with a Cusquena calender which will also take pride of place on my office wall, where I can enjoy it every day when back at work along with the view of Machu Picchu and remember anew the happy times spent here.

We got back home in time to watch an English film on TV which started at 10.30 but almost from the beginning I could hardly keep my eyes open and said my goodnights and went to bed, sleeping soundly as usual and waking again at 6. This morning after breakfast I washed my clothes up to date and then went to market with Hugo, to buy the purchases Elva needed and also bought a few more things for me - an excellent pair of sports sandals giving the same level of comfort as the ones I had been wearing all week of Hugo's (that had in turn been handmade especially for him by his niece Yannet in Lima). I put these new sandals on there and then and have been wearing them all day with no sore feet as is usual with new shoes. Then I found some excellent knee length shorts with side pockets on the thigh, really sporty looking men's ones, and fortunately they had them in a size which would fit me (which isn't often the case because people here are much smaller than us at home) and I bought two pairs, one in navy and one in stone colour. I will live in these for the rest of the holiday as they are so much more comfortable in this hot weather. Back home afterwards I tried them both on and they were a perfect fit.

Then for the remainder of the morning, until 11, I was busy packing my suitcase. Remembering the high amount of excess weight charge I had to pay last time, I asked Elva if I could leave a load of stuff there like I did last time but this time much more and she said no problem. Hugo produced a huge cardboard box and into it went everything I could possibly dispense with. My suitcase is still full but now closes with ease, plus I have the large second bag - full also - to try and pass off as hand baggage (!), and as with coming here will be wearing heaviest skirt, trousers, cardigans, coat etc, with pockets full of books and other things, which will be unbearable in this heat. I will probably have to still pay excess dollars but much less than would have been the case if I took everything. At least next time I have a load of clothes here in Peru which will save me having to bring a lot from home. In the last hour before lunch I wrote out the other 3 recipes of Elva's which follow, actually watching her prepare the chicken empanadas and as soon as the first batch came out of the oven she gave me one to try and it was simply delicious. For lunch today we had these, plus pork chops, some small spicy sausages, potato fried in round slices along with the sausages, and another large and excellent salad - see recipe 3! With it we had a delicious home-made lemonade made by Hugo of water, with juice of limons and some sugar added, the jug containing lots of ice cubes. It was incredibly refreshing and I will be definitely making that at home using limes. Afterwards we had glasses of gelatina (jelly) which is very popular here. People wend their way in the streets selling pots of it to passers by and it is a very refreshing snack when walking about. Then pakay as I probably won't see that again unless they also produce it in Trujillo. The variety of fruit available here is amazing and Elva said what is available is different every month of the year. If I lived here, with this abundance of fruit, vegetables and salad plants I reckon I could get really slim in no time at all. Especially if I had a set of pans like Elva has. She has had them for 20 years and they are like stainless steel pans but are completely non stick. One can cook anything in them using negligible amounts of oil. Only their weight has prevented me from buying at least one of these excellent pans to take home!!!! (You can imagine Colin can't you, how much I was tempted!)

Well, a good part of the afternoon was spent here in this internet cafe and then back at the house later I will enjoy my last few hours with these most precious and loved friends. Tonight I am taking the 11 pm bus to Arequipa with Erika accompanying me and we will reach the bus depot in Arequipa about 4.30 in the morning, waiting there about an hour (fortunately there is an excellent coffee shop still open then) and then take a taxi to the airport for when it opens at 6 am, the same taxi taking Erika back to the bus depot for her return trip back to Ilo. I am incredibly lucky that these excellent friends don't mind accompanying me to see me safely on my way. For a woman to arrive on her own in a Peruvian city in the middle of the night would be taking a terrible risk and I am eternally grateful to Erika for so readily accompanying me.

My plane to Cusco leaves Arequipa at 9 tomorrow morning if it hopefully leaves on time. After buying my ticket with Aero Continente airlines, Elva told me they don't always take off on time - unfortunately I did not have her with me when I actually purchased the ticket! I hope it isn't late though because on my arrival in Cusco, Aquiles' Mum and youngest brother Danilo will be awaiting my arrival at the airport. I am really looking forward to meeting Aquiles' Mum who sounded lovely on the telephone.

So leaving you now, with my next email to follow - probably in a couple of days. Angel wrote today giving me the mobile phone number of the band so hopefully I will see them again soon after my arrival in Cusco, hopefully to listen to the band play in Tomines restaurant, one of the restaurants where they play in the evenings, just off Plaza des Armas. It will be great to see the proprietor of Tomines again too - they made me so welcome there on my last visit, with free Pisco sours etc. It will fun to surprise them with a visit which I hope will be tomorrow night! And with luck very soon I will be enjoying a live band in either Okukus or Kami Kasi night club.
The Recipies.

Next follows the four recipes - I hope you enjoy them as much as I did.

1. QUE QUE INGLES (ENGLISH CAKE, PERUVIAN STYLE).
One and a half cups of sieved flour
one cup of margarine or butter
one and half cups of soft brown sugar
4 large eggs (the whites whisked to a froth in a blender, the yolks well beaten)
2 teaspoons of mixed spice
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
Half teaspoon of ground cloves
1 teaspoon of vanilla essence
1 cup of mixed fruit (glace cherries, , raisins and the like)
1 cup of sultanas
1 cup of very finely chopped walnuts

METHOD:

Whisk the margarine and sugar together in a cake mixer. Incorporate the egg yolks, one by one, folding in the whisked whites. Add the sieved flour in four lots along with the mixed spice, cinnamon, ground cloves and vanilla essence. Add the fruit and fold in well. Meanwhile you will have prepared two loaf tins 30 cm by 10 cm and 10 cm deep, complete with greased grease-proof paper. Divide the mixture between the two, creating a hole in the centre of each. Place in a preheated oven at temperature 350 F or 175 centigrade and cook for 40 minutes until golden brown. Leave to cool a few minutes before turning out of tins.

2. PAPA RELLENO (STUFFED POTATO PATTIES) - ELVA'S OWN RECIPE.

Peel and boil a kilo of white potatoes in slightly salted water until cooked. Set aside for about 10 minutes and then chuck in one egg and nothing else and mash it up. Meanwhile prepare the filling.

FILLING:
2 large onions,
2 large cloves of garlic, minced,
6 green olives very finely chopped,
2 hard boiled eggs finely chopped,
quarter level teaspoon of cumin,
good pinch of black pepper and salt to taste,
plus a small handful of sultanas
250gm of finely diced chicken breast.

METHOD:
Take a handful of potato in your hand and mould it, creating a hollow in which to place the chicken filling along with bits of olive and egg. Then fold the potato around the filling so that it is completely enclosed by the potato and is an oval shape. Do this until you have made as many Papa Relleno as possible. Then prepare the pan so that the oil is more than moderately hot and fry them, turning once, until golden on both sides. The heat of the oil is important so that they don't break up whilst being fried. Serve these with a little rice and a large Peruvian salad - see Elva's own recipe below.

3. PERUVIAN MIXED SALAD - ELVA'S OWN.
Fine green beans sliced as thinly as posible,
tiny broccoli florets without much stalk (previously cooked for no more than 5 minutes),
ery finely sliced and chopped raw spinach leaves,
grated carrot (only use the outside of the carrot and more from the bottom half, this being the best part of a carrot for salads),
grated Yakon (if you can find it!),
finely chopped parsley,
3 vine tomatoes finely chopped,
quarter of a kos style lettuce,
finely chopped and sliced,
and one stalk of celery chopped so small that it cannot be detected in the salad.

This can be prepared in advance - then at the last minute before eating it add the juice of two fresh limes and salt according to taste and toss well.

4. CHICKEN EMPANADAS TO ELVA'S OWN RECIPE PASTRY.
1 kilo of plain flour,
250gm margarine or butter,
one and a half cups of slightly salted tepid water.

Rub together margarine and flour, adding the water gradually until the pastry is formed. Set this aside for half an hour. Meanwhile prepare the filling

FILLING:
500gm of minced chicken or very finely chopped chicken breast
2 large onions finely chopped
50gm sultanas
1 tablespoon of sieved flour dissolved in half a cup of water
half teaspoon of cumin seeds
half teaspoon minced garlic
half teaspoon paprika
finely chopped green olives
finely chopped hard boiled egg
beaten egg

METHOD:
Fry onion and garlic in a little oil. Then add the chicken, spices, salt to taste, sultanas etc. Add the flour/water mixture. Cover and simmer until cooked. Then fold in the olives. Roll out pastry and place on a pasty making mould, add filling with some egg pieces and fold over and seal the edges. When you have made as many as possible brush one side with the beaten egg. In a preheated moderate oven , place them onto the back of a lightly greased meat tin or baking tray. Bake about six minutes until golden brown on one side and then turn them all over and cook a further 5 or 6 minutes until both sides are golden. The oven must not be so hot as to overcook them each side. When they are actually eaten it is the Peruvian habit to squeeze a bit of lime juice into the filling as they are eaten.

Safe Arrival in Cusco.
My last hours in Hugo and Elva's house last night were pretty poignant, all of us feeling sad at my impending departure. At 10.30 Hugo hailed a taxi which came to the house due to all my luggage and we got within 20 yards of the bus terminal where we came to a complete blockage in the road with cars and taxis dispensing passengers, vendors weaving in and out selling food and drink, i.e. the usual Peruvian chaos which I find so endearing about this country.

Inside we found that unlike Cruz del Sur, this bus company does not operate the ticketing system whereby unless you produce the ticket supplied at the time of handing it over you don't get it back! Elva's concern was in case passengers getting off in Moquegua or other places tried to claim my luggage and she was so worried that the man in charge promised to make extra sure I got it back without problems. He also assured us that luggage going to Arequipa was in a separate hold that would not be opened along the way.

After profuse hugs all round Erika and I boarded the bus, with Hugo and Elva waiting outside until almost the moment of departure. Once they left for home I soon sorted out the music and Erika was happily listening to one of the 3CDs in my Best of Cusco set, with me listening to Alaxpacha on the mp3 player whose CD has been my favourite for weeks and I will definitely be looking out for more music by this band when I get to Bolivia.

After ten minutes I was listening with only one ear because a promising looking English speaking film was just starting and we had a great view of the screen. The film was Hard Cash but wasn't as good as I thought it would be; after half an hour I was listening to music with both earphones. Neither of us slept in the first half of the journey but must have done in the second part because Erika was tapping my arm to wake me up on arrival - we arrived there at 4.20 am. Once inside the terminal neither of us could believe the amount of people in there waiting, mostly campesinos - people from the little villages outside the city, complete with their children, countless bundles of wares for sale etc, many sleeping or sitting on the floor. Seeing this made me more glad than ever that I had Erika with me with such a long wait ahead before going to the airport. Luckily there were little cafes open and after freshening up we headed for one of them and first ordered coffee with milk whilst deciding what to have for breakfast. Unfortunately I forgot momentarily that drinks don't come with fresh milk here but with tinned evaporated milk instead, and it was really yukky - Erika thought so too and we shoved them to one side and had half litre bottles of peach juice instead. We were feeling peckish so chose chicken with noodles and chips for breakfast with lovely bread rolls, smothering the lot with a mixture of tomato ketchup and aji amarilla salsa - which is so yummyyyyyyyyy! Then as there weren't many tables in the cafe we moved out into the terminal with less than an hour to wait, first purchasing Erika's return trip to Ilo for 12 noon so that she would have a little time to look around, and at the far end found somewhere to sit. At 6 am prompt we went to the tourist information desk to get information on independent travel to Colca Canyon and I was pleased to find that one can go independently for much less than agency organised tours. One gets a bus which takes four and a half hours to reach somewhere with hotels for around 15 dollars a night, then taking another bus next day which takes one and a half hours to get to the canyon. The lady recommended staying 3 nights minimum going to Colca daily - and this is definitely something I will do on my next visit.

We then went outside and found a taxi to take us out to the airport which is quite a long way. Both of us interestedly looking round to see a bit of Arequipa on the way. Our taxi driver gave us a bit of running commentary about Arequipa explaining that the white stone (It is called The White City) of the buildings is actually lava rock. The volcano - El Misti - which is still active, is right there on the edge of town and there are excursions available where one can climb to the rim. Somehow I don't think I will be tempted by that one!

At the airport Erika decided to stay with me to ensure I checked in okay. We dived first of all into a promising looking cafe and asked for some 'good' coffee and this came prepared the proper way - in a cafeteria - and we enjoyed it black and sweet which is the best way to enjoy Peruvian coffee. The next trepidation was checking in my luggage and I was pleased this time to get away with excess baggage fees. Even with all I had taken out my case it was still 5 kilos over the allowance but they didn't say anything - nor protest at the huge size of my 'hand' luggage. When all this had been done, with airport tax paid we rang Elva and confirmed our safe arrival there and time of Erika's bus arrival back in Ilo. At this point I insisted she could leave me there in safety otherwise she would not have long enough to go and look round in the centre and then get back to the terminal. Our taxi driver was a genuine and helpful man and told her exactly what to pay to get to both centre and then back to the terminal by taxi afterwards. Without this indication you would not know if you were being overcharged and the recommendation is always to ask a local.

We said our goodbyes around 7.30, with me being able to board the plane at 9, so I made myself comfortable near my departure gate and listened to music and read a bit more of my Bolivia book, which is so interesting that I pick it up to read at every spare moment. At ten to nine I went through but after unloading all the bags onto the conveyor and walking though the arch the alarm went off. They were just about to search me when I remembered I was 'wearing' my camera - stuffed down inside my bra which is the safest place for it - and once this was removed I went through the arch without mishap.

I was the first one through and true to their reputation Aero Continente were late departing. Other people filtered through and sitting next to me was a mother with a baby about the same age as Jasmine, standing on her mother's lap facing her and it reminded me so much of Jasmine that I felt quite homesick for a moment. This dear little baby girl gave me some delightful smiles too, which further reminded me of her.

We saw the plane arrive - quite a small one, which came close enough to the terminal so that we could walk out to get on. The weather in Arequipa was a far cry from Ilo - quite cold with not much sun in sight. It is amazing how many climatic changes there are in Peru - you don't have to travel far for an incredible difference. I had a window seat near the front but on the opposite side of the plane to last time so could not see Vulcan Misti when the plane picked up speed down the runway and took off. The plane was only quarter full which explained perhaps why they did not charge me excess baggage fees. The actual flight itself was only 30 minutes duration and as always I was looking down avidly as the plane came down to land, unable to resist taking 2 photos on top of the lot I have at home already!

Then off the plane and a walk to the terminal and even before I got to the luggage claim area, I could see someone waving frantically through the window and realised it was Danilo. Coming so quickly from sea level to this altitude I definitely felt the affects straight away. Laden as I was probably didn't help but I felt almost light headed. But then I was claiming my luggage and listening to the same band which welcomes every plane to Cusco and took a great photo of them. I was able to resist the CD though because it was the same one as last time! Then I was with Danilo and meeting his Mum for the first time, with Danilo taking care of my luggage and we walked a few yards and got a taxi home. Back at the house Danilo took my things to my room whilst his Mum put the coffee pot on and we had coffee and snacks together and watched a bit of television. I knew I needed this time of rest to help myself acclimatize after the giddyness at the airport but did not want to go to sleep and waste a good part of the day. Then I went upstairs, freshened up and changed clothes, took out the presents for Danilo, his Mum and Dad, knowing as I gave Aquiles Mum her velvet tunic tht it was too small but told her I had another one with me that would probably fit. We had a nice chat and I was delighted to learn that Aquiles older brother Carlos is over for 3 weeks from Switzerland so look forward to seeing him later. I met him once when he came to Bath whilst Aquiles and Claire were visiting me and he stayed overnight in my house.

After 2 hours I said I needed to go out and make a phone call and because I was nervous of Fido the neighbour's dog she walked with me to the phone and waited until I got through. Elva was delighted to know I got there safely and I promised to write real soon - this would have been today had it not been for these bl**dy awful computers (this third attempt is on another one which is even worse), but will definitely be tomorrow.

I took a taxi, asking the driver to take me to Plaza des Armas and the route he took went right past Tomines restaurant which is close to the plaza. I asked to be let out there and then decided to go and have the set lunch which looked interesting. The waiters remembered me instantly from my last visit and ushered me to my previous favourite table and I ordered a cup of coca leaf tea - the real thing with a cup full of leaves - and the set lunch which was unbelievably delicious and still excellent value even though one can get a good set lunch for half the price in other nearby cafes. First I was presented with a delicious bread - one of the many on offer in Cusco, complete with butter balls, then the first course of a delicious shredded chicken salad.  This was followed by Caldo de Cordero (a delicious lamb soup complete with yucca, and a delicious yellow potato, herbs and lamb, plus the inevitable chuno (freeze-dried small potato) which I livened up with lots of aji amarilla salsa - I really am going to miss that salsa when I go home! Then out of the 3 choices on offer I chose an Alpaca steak which was incredibly delicious and I will definitely be enjoying more of this whilst in Cusco! Then I had a great surprise when in walked one of the youngest members of the band befriended last year. He recognised me instantly and called out my name and came over and confirmed they were playing in Tomines that night. He even went out to try and find some of the other band members but without success. Before leaving Tomines I booked my table there for 7.45 with an excellent view of them playing and I am really looking forward to it.

Upon arrival here I found a message from Eddy in La Paz confirming things were okay there, and that he would meet me on arrival and accompany me to places. He also said he has young men and girls working in his shops (he sells CDs and instruments) and they too would accompany me at times. On the strength of this I wrote back and to Jorge as well to the effect that tomorrow I will find the Lloyd Air Boliviano airline office and book my flight for either 28 or 29 January, with confirmation emails to follow tomorrow. I'm really looking forward now to a musical few weeks!

First Day in Cusco.

Preview.
Well my first day and evening in Cusco exceeded my wildest dreams it was so exciting, with me not getting back to the house last night until 1.15 in the morning.

Then thinking we were getting up early to go to Urubamba I was up at 5.15 to get ready for a 6 am departure, only learning after my shower etc that plans had been deferred. Aquiles had phoned the night before to say he and Alfredo would be arriving in Cusco at 10 this morning. I was so delighted as Aquiles is my friend from England after all and it is his family I am staying with. Last night with Angel we made so many plans for the weeks ahead. I will be in Cusco until 1st February now, seeing as many live concerts as possible in the night times, visiting places of interest in the day - Aquiles is happy with all the plans in store - the only interesting part will be me with bated breath seeing how they like each other when they meet. Aquiles is very protective and will want to check him out! I´ve assured him that Angel is a genuine person and a good friend to have, but it will be interesting to watch the interaction between them later tonight! In a few moments I am off to Sacsaywaman with Aquiles which is why this is only a preview of what is to come, to also serve as a reminder to me when I get around to writing about it, because so much is happening that it is hard to remember what happened a couple of days back! We are hiring a taxi for 3 hours and sharing the cost, as Sacsaywaman is high above Cusco and not easy to get to by public transport. Tonight Aquiles is accompanying me to Patitis restaurant in the Plaza de Armas to watch Angel´s band play and then afterwards we will look for the best concert to be had. Last night before the magic evening in Kami Kasi with Angel, I met another excellent band in Tominis called Chumus - more about that when I write the story. You will see then when you read it what a magical fantastic evening last night was and hopefully a foretaste of the coming week here. I am so excited about everything and the travels we have planned beyond 1st Feb.
Continued...

As you know from yesterday's email I arrived safely in Cusco, spent an interesting morning and lunch period and then a longish session in the internet cafe. It was getting dark as I came out so I took an immediate taxi back to the house, unfortunately arriving nearly an hour after I said I would, to find no one at home, and Fido loose in the nearby street, plus other dogs! Luckily I did not have to wait long - I went to a little cafe on the corner and had a coke, having first left a message in their answer-phone saying where I was and 20 minutes later Danilo came to meet me. The only trouble was that arriving back earlier I only had half an hour to get ready and rush out again as I had booked the taxi that brought me home to pick me up again at 7.45 and by the time we got back in the house I had only 5 minutes. Before that I was getting anxious, envisaging spending the evening in Tomines restaurant still in my shorts and T-shirt which definitely wasn't warm enough for when the sun went down. Even flying into a fresh set of clothes and brushing my hair I still got back outside too late and the taxi must have given up and gone on. Finding another wasn't difficult though and I arrived at Tomines just after 8 pm, was welcomed in beautifully and given my favourite table. I could see musicians getting ready in the corner, all unknown to me previously, which was when I realised that when I asked the waiters if the band were playing that evening and they said yes, they were thinking of one band while I was thinking of another!!!!

Anyhow I sat down and ordered something light as I was still pretty full from that excellent lunch there earlier, and ordered a half litre bottle of cusquena to go with it. I was chatting to the waiter and owner as no one else was in the restaurant. The youngest waiter who was also a musician in Angel's band, disappeared momentarily and I later realised why. He had dashed down to Patiti's restaurant in the Plaza to let Angel know I was there and next minute Angel walked in and came over and sat down, really pleased that I had got there, not expecting me until Sunday at the earliest. He explained that his other band members were in Puno at the moment (they all come from there) and he was playing with another band at present and had to do a 40 minute show in Patiti's and would I hang on there in Tomines until he could join me straight afterwards. Of course I agreed and we looked forward to catching up on news later.

After Angel had gone the owner asked me to choose what CD to be played whilst waiting for the band to play and I asked if I could hear that band's CD which I could see was available for sale. The only trouble being that all the CDs were sealed so the band came over instead and said they would play a show just especially for me! I was overwhelmed, even more so when they said I could choose every one of the songs they were going to play! I chose Aymarita and Tempestad to start with, then Bolivia (Kjarkas), Pobre Corazon (from Ecuador), Encuentros (Sukay) along with a few others and enjoyed 45 magical minutes of a show laid on just for me. At the end I treated them to a beer each and said I would buy their CD the next day as I did not want to deplete my funds too much to ensure I had enough for that evening, knowing I was going to a pena (night club) afterwards. Even before I got them their beers they said I was the most simpatico foreign person they had ever met which I thought was a lovely thing to say even if they didn't really mean it. I think being able to chat with them so fluently in their own language had a lot to do with it. When Angel returned the band was still playing for me, with their CD on my table, as I had chosen some of the latter songs from it to see what it was like. (They are called Chumus). At the end I thanked them profusely and said that if they would leave their CD with the owner of Tomines I would pop in the following lunchtime to pay for it, with the owner giving them the money when they came to play in the evening, and they were happy about that and said to come back and listen to them again soon. Whilst listening to the last part of their show Angel and I were talking nineteen to the dozen as there was so much news to catch up on and he had lots of plans in store, first confirming that he would accompany me to Puno in time for the oktonal concert on 2nd February. I am not sure if this is the one laid on by all the campesinos (people who live in the countryside villages outside the town) but he assured me it was one definitely not to be missed. There in Puno I will see all the other members of his band again and I am especially looking forward to seeing Milton and his wife again, who live in nearby Juliaca. It is amazingly cheap to travel there by bus and it only takes 7 hours so will probably set off from here on 1st February, arriving in time for the fiesta on the 2nd.

When I was in Cusco 18 months ago, Angel took me a few times to Fernando's bar, a small bar about 10 minutes walk from the Plaza, run by Fernando and his wife who are really lovely people. Ever since they have often asked about me, knowing that Angel and I maintained email contact. Angel said that although they knew I was coming back they had no idea when, he said it was too early to go to the penas and would I like to go to Fernando´s and surprise them! I readily agreed and we walked because on the way we wanted to check out both Okukus and Kami Kasi penas to see who was playing. I wasn't interested in the first band (Pueblo Andino at Okukus) and when we got to Kami Kasi I was thrilled beyond belief to see that Arco Iris were playing with the show to start at 11 pm. We got to Fernando´s at 9 pm and as soon as we walked in both Fernando and his wife came out from behind the bar and both gave me a really big hug and it was so moving to be so welcomed by these delightful people. We sat down and were talking nineteen to the dozen because Angel had lots of plans on where to go in the days ahead and was quite dismayed when I said that next day I would be booking my flight to La Paz. In the end we worked out how much time I had before going to my final destination at Trujillo in the north of Peru, and the result was that I realised I would need to postpone going to La Paz in order to fit it in around the events in Puno. He is in the process of working out an exact itinerary but we roughly agreed on setting out from here on 1st February, going by bus because it is cheap and only takes 7 hours, arriving in time for the big fiesta on the 2nd. Then he said we needed to get back to Puno for the 2nd big fiesta held by the city of Puno - a festival of lights - taking place on the evening of 8th February, and then the main fiesta de la Candelaria laid on by everybody which starts on the 9th and continues until the 15th. Obviously I can only stay for the first 2 or 3 days because otherwise there would not be time for a week or so in Trujillo, but I think it is possible to go by bus direct from Puno to Trujillo which will be alot cheaper than flying to Lima and getting the bus cama from there. However if it is possible to travel from Cusco direct to Trujillo I will regress here and thus be able to leave most of my luggage here in Cusco whilst travelling very light to Puno - La Paz - and then back to Puno again. This means I will travel on to La Paz on 3rd February and only be able to stay until the 7th, or morning of the 8th if there are buses available to get us back in time for la fiesta de luces, but the good news is that Angel is going to accompany me to La Paz and back as well, so the actual journey there won't be such an ordeal as it would have been had I travelled there alone. Of course it means travelling by bus after all in mountain terrain where there has been rain and land slides in recent weeks, and Bolivian bus drivers have a reputation of getting drunk and still driving, so it sounds a risky business but what the heck! You only live once and if an adventure presents itself you just have to adjust your thinking. At least we will be travelling at night and so I won't die of fright looking out of the window. In Bolivia downhill drivers have to drive on the outside which sounds pretty scarey. But there is no way Angel could afford flights, being only a musician and living on music alone isn't much better here than it is at home. As it is I will probably have to help him out with some of the expenses but count this well worth the costs to have an excellent guide and travel companion, thus reducing any risks to the minimum. What I save on flights will compensate as well. I am so excited at the prospect of being there for the Fiesta de la Candelaria which is the biggest fiesta in all Peru after Inti Raymi (which I experienced in June 2001). Although I will only have a few days in La Paz, it will still be long enough to get the music I want, enjoy meeting Jorge who looked after me along with Adrian so brilliantly on my last (first) visit, and this time I am looking forward to meeting up with Eddy Lima (ex kena player with Jacha Mallku and has also played with Las Yuras - at home I also have a live concert of Eddy Lima en vivo). We have exchanged loads of emails in recent months and I am looking forward to meeting up with him and getting to know him more. I had an email from him today confirming that everything is peaceful in La Paz with foreign visitors having a lovely time there and no problems whatsoever. Also, according to my Lonely Planet book on Bolivia, La Paz is one of the safest cities in Latin America.  

About 10.30 I suddenly realised I did not have my camera with me and wanted it just in case there was a photo opportunity with Arco Iris so we hailed a taxi and bargained a price to take us out to Marcavalle and back - we drove back and Angel waited in the taxi whilst I dashed in to get the camera. Luckily I had been given a key to the house by now, because they were all out, but I let myself in and got the camera and we were soon whizzing back to the centre, arriving at Okukus just coming up to 11 pm. Inside it was very busy with all the tables taken up and we could see the band on stage with the lights off, just about to start playing. I spotted an unoccupied chair and went to sit in it whilst Angel looked for another and luckily found one. Just as he sat down the lights on the stage came on and the band started to play - 6 musicians, 2 on guitars (one electric, one acoustic), 2 kena players, charango player and a guy on the drums which was a double bombo set - the kena players also playing panpipes. The next hour and a half was such magic - their concert was amazing and I was so happy that I had a big beam on my face that just would not go away and in turn Angel was delighted to see me enjoying myself so much. Being a musician he knew the lyrics to a lot of the songs and it was great to see him enjoying himself as much as I was, singing along to some of the songs. We were both in such great spirits that it rubbed off on the people around us and we got to know a lovely Peruvian girl called Elsa and I enjoyed chatting to her so much that we exchanged email addresses at the end of the evening. Angel also confirmed that one of the band members - one of the kena players - was a good friend of his as they both come from Puno and he thought there was a good chance we could go and chat to him and the others afterwards. I asked him to ask about a photo with the band as well.

At the end after they had done the encores - everyone there, mostly tourists, had thoroughly enjoyed them too - Angel's friend came down off the stage and came over and they greeted each other and he introduced me and I got a hug as well and he asked about the photo and he readily agreed - he led me over to the stage and one of the other musicians held out both hands and hauled me up onto the stage and the whole band posed with me while Angel took a photo. I asked about CDs and there were 3 available and I ended up buying all 3, using dollars I had stashed on me in case my soles ran out. They were all lovely and friendly guys and two of them helped me off the stage when I said I wasn't sure how to get down - one jumping down and getting a stool and another on the stage helping me step onto it, then the one below helping me step from stool to floor! Angel and I decided not to stay on for the disco because I was quite tired having only had 2 hours sleep the night before (on the bus between Ilo and Arequipa) but when we got through all the dancers to the bar area, all the band were there and some could speak English and we spent a happy 20 minutes with them, finally leaving them confirming we would be at their concert in Okukes this coming Tuesday. It was at this point that Elsa and I exchanged email addresses too. She actually teaches Spanish at a language school here in Cusco and was most impressed when I said I learned Spanish just by email correspondence with my friends in Ilo, enhanced by my 7 week Peru/Bolivia visit in 2001 and further enhanced by this second visit. She was impressed that having basically taught myself in this way that I could both write and speak it and even better, understand it spoken!  

Once outside I negotiated a deal with a taxi driver to take me out to Marcavalle and then bring Angel back to his home in Cusco and was thus safely accompanied home right to the door, before saying goodnight. I had told him I was going to Urubamba the next day, leaving early in the morning and not knowing if I would be back that day or the following - Aquiles family have a house in Urubamba and I have stayed there before, so there was a good chance Aquiles mum and brother would want to spend one night there. I said I would see him on Sunday instead.

I got into bed at 1.15 but was still on such a high after such a magical first day and evening in Cusco that I couldn't sleep for ages and listened to two CDs on the headphones before I finally dropped off, waking up at 5.20 next morning (the inevitable crowing cocks), leapt out of bed to get a shower as I knew the plan was to leave at 6 am for Urubamba. It was only when I got downstairs after showering and getting ready and loading a small bag with essentials in case of an overnight stay that I discovered we were not going to Urubamba that day after all but would go another time. Aquiles had phoned the night before while I was out to say that he and his dad were flying back from Lima next morning and would arrive at Cusco airport at 10 am. I was delighted and decided to cook a chicken curry for lunch, getting it cooked before leaving for the airport for us all to enjoy afterwards. I wrote out a list of what I was needed and then crossed off the ingredients and spices that were already in the cupboards and went with Aquiles mum to a nearby small supermarket and bought the biggest chicken they had plus some portions to add to it, a selection of mashed spices in little plastic bags (garlic, cummin with garlic added, aji amarillo plus some cummin seeds. The only missing ingredient was cilantro en polvo (ground coriander) which is hard to find here but I knew it was going to taste different anyway with aji amarillo instead of the usual red or green chillis. Back home Danilo set about helping me with the preparations - washing the potatoes, onions and green and red peppers and then peeling the potatoes, whilst I chopped up onions and peppers and started the cooking process, skinning the chicken having got it chopped into loads of pieces at the supermarket. Danilo was watching everything that went in it trying to memorise it - he is really interested in cooking and always really helpful and attentive. He is 16 now and has grown since I saw him last year.

Finally it was all cooked and ready except for last minute items and the rice still to be cooked, and we set off for the airport at 9.30 with Danilo and his mum negotiating a good price for a taxi to take us out to the airport. When we got there it was to find they would not arrive until 10.30. First I took a few photos of the first sight of Cusco that you get when you come out of the airport into the open air - then I suggested we went inside to see if there was a viewing area to see his plane land. We found a good spot but as we still had a while to wait we went into a cafe up there and Danilo and I enjoyed hot chocolate Swiss style which was really yummy, and Aquiles mum had a cappuccino. Five minutes before the plane was due in we found a good spot both to see the plane land and wave to Aquiles as he went past (like Danilo had done for me) and it was great to see the Aero Continente plane come in to land, a bigger one that mine from Arequipa. Aquiles and Alfredo's first sight of us was me, Danilo and his Mum waving to them and then we all dashed back downstairs and out the front to get a good spot by the enclosed area where passengers come out of the airport. Alfredo joined us straightaway and it was lovely to see him again and soon we were teasing each other just like when I was here last time and having a good laugh. He looked very ill though and I think needs a transplant but won't risk such an operation here in Peru. Some of his other grown up children in Europe are trying to find out what such an operation would cost in Spain. I then found a good spot to get a photo of Aquiles as he came out (just like I had done the day before) and then he was joining us and it was hugs and joy all round and in the taxi from the airport we were all teasing each other so much and laughing our heads off that the taxi driver must have thought we were all loco (mad!)

A Few More Lines...

When we got back to the house Aquiles put on some music of CDs he had bought recently by bands he knew I would not know but knew I would like and it was brilliant music. Whilst he was doing that his mum and I finished off getting lunch ready, buying 4 large cusquenas in a nearby shop to go with it, and soon enough we were all sitting round the table and everyone enjoying my chicken curry which tasted even more delicious with aji amarillo in it. Everyone tucked in with gusto and Aquiles feeling so happy to be home actually unlocked his booze display and got down 3 beautiful glasses inlaid with Peruvian designs in 14 carat gold for us to drink our beers in, at the same time bringing out a drink produced in the jungle and a small glass saying that I must try it. When I saw the word afrodisiaca in the title I made him only pour a quarter full, even then saying are you sure I won't be leaping on every man in sight if I drink this!!!! He assured me it wouldn't and said it was actually medicinal - it tasted really nice too. The two CDs we listened to during lunch were a group called Anthologia called ´Nina´plus a CD by William Luna - both of them really brilliant.

After lunch Aquiles and I went out. I wanted at least a quick visit to an internet cafe so he walked me to one of the ones near the house leaving me in there saying he would be back in half an hour with a taxi. When he arrived he had 2 friends with him. We went first into the centre of Cusco as I needed to pop into Tomines before they closed after lunch to pay for and collect the CD and then go and change more dollars into soles. Once I had done this we got the taxi driver to drive us out of town to a village about 15 miles away. This was very interesting for me seeing the little villages outside of Cusco and both there and back I took several photos trying to capture typical Cusco life for you all to see at some point in the future. We stopped at a shop in one of the villages and bought two bottles of a lovely looking rose wine produced in Ica called Tarija and then drove on to the village of Sayllu finally stopping at a Chicharonia - a restaurant with two garden areas and parasols etc with music playing loudly and a barbeque going plus an outdoor kitchen with huge pots on the stove. We found a nice spot to sit with me in full sun and the other 3 getting as much into the shade as possible under the parasol, and at this point Aquiles realised he did not have his penknife with him which is complete with corkscrew, compass etc. I went over to the kitchen to see if I could borrow a corkscrew and they did not have one but they offered to try and open it for us and said they would bring glasses over. I also asked if when the current CD was finished they would play my Chumus CD and they agreed.

I wasn't hungry so soon after that huge lunch and am not very fond of chicharones either, so declined ordering anything, happy to be sitting there in the sun with three fun companions, and a few minutes later enjoying the excellent wine. When I get back home I am going to search for availability of wines produced in Ica, Peru, because every one I have tried so far has been excellent, this rose one the best of the lot! We were able to enjoy my Chumus CD at the same time. When their food arrived I was glad I had not ordered anything because this specially prepared pork looked overdone to me and came accompanied by choclo which is one of the many varieties of corn on the cob available here, the corn kernels much bigger than the ones at home. By the time they finished eating we had shared one bottle, deciding to take the other one with us as our next stop was Sacsaywaman and as we would pass home on the way we could dash it and get his penknife. Leaving the taxi and his friends in the car we both dashed in - me to change into something more suitable for evening. Then the winding climb uphill to Sacsaywaman - the ancient Inca fortress high above Cuzco, finally arriving by the entrance. But whilst climbing the hill the rain came lashing down and although it eased off to a shower by the time we got out of the taxi it was still wet enough for us to decide not to go walking in the fortress after all. I was happy just to see those ancient Inca stones again, first of all dashing over to take a photo of 3 llamas grazing nearby. Then we were surrounded by a lot of delightful children selling some kind of herb, and when we laughingly declined they said they would give them to me instead and each child placed some of these leaves into my hand until I had a whole bunch! They told me to rub the leaves and inhale and then I recognised the wonderful smell of that plant which is even more efficacious than coca leaves as a natural medicinal cure for altitude sickness. The remainder of that day I had the whole bunch in my pocket, taking some out to inhale at regular intervals. The mothers of these children surrounded us too with lots of things for sale, really beautiful things but unfortunately too heavy as they were made out of a beautiful black stone but I did end up buying an Andean cross which is supposed to have power in it - buying it in such a sacred place I have every faith in it too. Due to the rain not letting up we got back into the taxi, deciding to revisit Sacsaywaman another day to walk in the ruins, driving back down to Cusco as our next stop was a duty free market quite far from the centre, near a magnificent several building storeys tall pillar topped with a huge statue of Tupac Amaru. We were in the market ages because it was huge and the array of goods for sale was fantastic at excellent prices. The CD prices were really cheap and by the time we had left the market again I had bought 12 - Stasha since I wrote last I will soon type up the details of 17 CDs including the Raul Garcia Zarate one.

Then we got the taxi driver to take us back to Plaza des Armas and on the way I could see the statue was lit up and said to Aquiles we must come back there in daylight so that I could take a photo of it. We got out at Patiti's as I had decided to surprise Angel by turning up when he was thinking I was in Urubamba. Unfortunately the other band members were gathering outside but no Angel and when Aquiles realised that he wouldn't be meeting Angel he suggested coming back for me a bit later. He suggested I phone him at 9.30 to let him know where I was and that he would then rejoin me. I asked the waiter on the door of Patitis if I could come in without dining just to listen to the band and they said of course. In fact moments after I sat down they produced a pisco sour and a toasted snack something like a bruschetta and said it was compliments of the house which I thought was very kind. When half an hour later Angel still had not arrived, I was on the point of leaving to go to a nearby internet cafe when the other 4 musicians came in and said not to go yet as they were just about to play as they had decided to go ahead and play anyway without Angel.  I enjoyed their performance - even putting in a request during the show by writing Pobre Corazon on a serviette and holding it up for the band to see and they played it for me! This group are called Alto Machupicchu and there was a CD for sale which I will be buying before leaving Cusco. After the show a couple of the band members came over and I asked if they knew who was playing in the penas that night. I thought as they were musicians they might know but they weren't sure and one of them - Juan - offered to accompany me to the main penas around and just off the plaza to find out and I readily agreed. At the end of it we realised the best band was Arco Iris again in Okukus but our walk was not in vain because at each place I asked if either Amazonas or Totem ever played there and was delighted to learn that Totem are playing at Okukus on Wednesday. After all this I thought the least I could do was buy Juan a drink and we went into a cafe-bar on the corner of the plaza called Varajoc and enjoyed a cusquena each. I phoned Aquiles at 9.30 and he said he would rejoin me in about half an hour so I bought us both another drink until they arrived, at this point shaking hands with Juan outside Varajoc and thanking him, saying I would probably see him and the whole band including Angel at Patitis the following night (tonight).

Aquiles and his friends did not want to go to the local clubs but instead opted for one further away and we hopped into a taxi and it was quite far away where a tourist would never inadvertently stray, the club decor on a jungle theme and very big with dance floors and bars and large areas of tables and chairs. It was packed with people and I probably stood out like a sore thumb as the only foreigner in there! Aquiles bumped into more friends in there and we stayed with them for quite a few hours until I reached a point where I could not keep my eyes open any longer so Aquiles said he would take me back but then come back to the club to rejoin his friends. Luckily there were taxis outside and we returned to the house with Aquiles waiting in the taxi until I got safely through the gate and thence into the house. I looked at my watch just before getting into bed and it was 3.15 and I had to get up early for mass the next day!

This morning I woke at 6, thought I would have another 5 minutes before getting up, fell asleep again and woke up at ten to 7 with only 15 minutes to get ready for church. We left at ten past ten in fact and it took about 15 minutes to walk to the church which is inside a seminary, stopping halfway for a rest as Aquiles Dad gets easily exhausted and I was feeling a bit out of breath too due to the altitude.

Like the mass I went to in Ilo with Elva this was a beautiful ceremony, very joyful with lots of singing to accompanying guitar music. They don't have hymn or prayer books here in Peru as everyone knows the responses and songs by rote. As in Ilo the church was packed to capacity and I felt privileged to be within such a thriving community - yet again the only foreigner present. In the middle of the service everyone held hands in a row across all the pew areas, moving so that each row went across the aisle, lifting our hands high, and afterwards the hugs or hand shakes bestowing peace on people nearby just like back home and in Ilo. With the singing and music and enthusiastic hand clapping a mass here really is a joyful affair. The service lasted an hour and a half and then we strolled back home for breakfast.

After breakfast they were all off to the local supermarket so I decided to stay behind and have the shower there wasn't time for before church. Whilst they were away Carlos phoned from Switzerland so I was able to have a chat with him as he reverted straight into English when he realised it was me on the phone. I had misunderstood his Mum the day before. He had actually been to Cusco for 3 weeks and gone home the week before my arrival here.

At 11.30 I set off to come to this internet cafe and probably by the time I get back Aquiles will be home as by this time he still had not come home from the previous night! I don't know what plans he has in mind for this afternoon but I am sure they will be fun. Sometime this week the five of us - Aquiles and Danilo, his parents and me - all of us are going to Machu Picchu on the Indian train so I am looking forward to that beyond anything.

Meanwhile I am looking forward to tonight at Patitis which although expensive I am going to splash out and dine there whilst listening to the band, not wanting to take advantage of the kindness of the management in letting me have a table with a good view of the band last night. Then afterwards going somewhere with Angel, accompanied by Aquiles and perhaps some of his other friends. It will be fun seeing how Aquiles and Angel take to each other.

A Monday Message from Cusco.
I have about half an hour before meeting up with Aquiles and his family as we are all going for an early evening meal at Alfredo's favourite restaurant. I have to be back at the house by 5.30 so that after the meal I can get to Patitis by 7.30.

I am having such fun here in Cusco and enjoying myself immensely with the musicians befriended. Last night at Patitis I gave Angel his birthday present - 2 t-shirts with London designs on them and he was overwhelmed saying it was the best present he had ever received. The show was even better than the night before (which was missing a charango player due to Angel's absence on Saturday) and I was able to choose some of the songs again. I was given a free Pisco Sour again and treated all the band to a drink just before the show. Afterwards Angel, Juan, and 2 others and I went to Fernando's only to find it was closed. So instead went to El Viejo Bar and shared large litre bottles of cusquena and I enjoyed the lovely Andean music in the background. Being Sunday there was not much live music in the clubs but I did not want a late night anyway feeling really tired after several nights with little sleep. I enjoyed their company so much and feel really lucky to spend time with them. Angel and I were telling the others of our plans to visit Puno for Candelaria, plus visit to Copacabana and La Paz and they all wanted to go as well. Unfortunately they cannot as they have to keep a group going for playing in the restaurants here as that is their only source of income. We worked it out that Juan and one of the others would meet us in Puno in time for the Fiesta of Lights on 8th February. We have all exchanged email addresses so can confirm where to meet that way.

We stayed in El Viejo until 11 pm and then Angel and I nipped across the street for a quick snack in a chicken brasserie. All the time whilst in El Viejo it had poured with rain and the streets were flooded to such an extent that I could barely jump over the deluge to reach the pavement on the other side. It was literally pouring down as it does every day starting in the afternoons between 2 and 5 pm. The mornings are very warm and sunny but you know the rain is going to arrive sometime later. Then we negotiated a taxi there and back so that Angel could see me safely home and I was in bed by 11.45. I didn't wake up until 8 am, knowing in advance that there was no pressure to get up by a certain time. I needed those 8 hours to catch up on all the lost hours in the previous few nights.

The arrangement was to meet up in my favourite Plaza des Armas internet cafe at 12 noon today, so after taking my shower and getting ready, I was ready for breakfast by 9 and knocked on Aquiles door and said would he join me and Alfredo for breakfast. Alfredo's bedroom is next to mine and when I exited my room dressed in my beautiful Cusquena dress he did a double take and was amazed, first that I had obtained such a dress (it is a costume of a Nusta, virgin of the sun) and secondly that I had got it at such a good price in Tacna. It would have cost 5 or 6 times as much buying it here. When Aquiles saw it he did a double take as well and was quite impressed with it. We went down to breakfast, having a good laugh with Alfredo, and then took a few photos outside, all of me with Alfredo who wanted a picture of me in that dress.

I set off for Plaza des Armas just before 11, to give me an hour in the internet cafe where I was to meet the band, with Aquiles agreeing to catch up with us there also. When 12.10 came with no one arriving yet (the whole band were due to meet me there at 12) I went outside to see if anyone was waiting there. As I exited the internet cafe a Peruvian guy crossing the road did a double take and came straight over to me saying 'You're Angela aren't you!' I recognised his face but couldn't place where and when he reminded me who he was I realised what a small world it is at times. Santiago and his brother Edgar are musicians and the last couple of times I saw him was at Contigo Peru in July and after the Kjarkas concert in October. He just could not believe his eyes to see me again - this time in Cusco instead of London! When I told him that I was going to El Truco with the band he said he would come and join us. At this point Angel arrived who also knew Santiago pretty well. Angel and I went to El Truco and no sign of the other musicians! They were invited to play but Angel needed to find other musicians fast in order to get a band together. We regressed to the internet cafe but still no one had arrived. Then I waited on a seat in Plaza de Armas whilst Angel hurried first to Patitis and then back. By the time we got back to El Truco we had gathered 4 musicians and needed one more and at this point Juan arrived. Whilst waiting outside El Truco an adorable little boy approached me just to chat (most of them are looking for money or trying to sell something). This one was so cute and when I asked him if I could have a photo taken with him he was delighted and snuggled close while it was taken. He had his little school satchel on his back and was obviously in the lunch period from school. When we all went into the restaurant I gave him a hug and he said 'gracias Amiga'. This was witnessed by another boy and he tried to sell me sweets. I said I had no change and he said he would wait outside! (He did too and luckily I had change and was able to disperse it to him and one or two others).

In the restaurant I was able to get a table on the edge of the dance floor area in front of the stage. At this point Aquiles arrived (as I had phoned when he had not appeared by 12.15 telling where we would be). We sat and enjoyed a beer whilst the band were playing and Aquiles could not take his eyes off the buffet food. I asked the waiter how much it was to take the buffet lunch and it was really expensive but I told Aquiles I would treat him to lunch there later in the week as an advance birthday present (it is his birthday in February and he adores buffet type restaurants where you can eat as much as you like for a set price!). After playing Angel approached and I introduced him to Aquiles and Angel said it was really expensive to drink there and could we all go somewhere for a drink where it was much cheaper. Whilst watching the band Santiago also arrived and stayed with us all afternoon. We all went to Fernando's but it was still closed but there was another bar very close by and we went there instead. We ordered a couple of litre bottles to share and 8 glasses and ended up sharing 6 litres during the next couple of hours and having such fun in the process. For me it was great to be enjoying the company of 8 Peruvian musicians and able to join in and participate in the conversation in Spanish with no problem whatsoever. The rain hammered down whilst we were in the bar and luckily was only drizzle when we came out. I hopped straight into a taxi which Angel hailed for me so that I could get straight from doorway into the taxi without getting wet and after a while I realised I did not recognise the route being taken for home. At times like this knowing Spanish comes in handy as it lets them know you are fully aware. When he explained that he was taking a detour to avoid the traffic and said we would rejoin Avenida de la Cultura any moment I knew he was speaking the truth and sure enough we rejoined it soon after.

At 5.30 with Aquiles, his parents and brother we are all having an early meal somewhere in Marcavalle, a favourite place of Alfredo's and I will treat them as it is so great being made so welcome in their house, with keys and able to come and go as I please. I plan to take them to Quinta Geronimo before leaving Cusco as well. Then I am meeting up with the band again at Patitis at 7.30 and no doubt going off somewhere afterwards, hopefully for yet more live music. Whilst with them in El Viejo last night they were all telling me things to look forward to when we get to Puno. In addition to the fantastic Fiesta de la Candelaria, there are other things to do - I want to visit Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca but also at times (and I sure hope it will be whilst I am there) there are live music concerts staged on boats in the middle of Lake Titicaca with all the audience in little reed boats all around and they said that groups like Kalamarka or Awatinas have done such concerts. I got so excited at this because one of my dreams is to see Awatinas in concert. You cannot find a group more traditional than this, other than for instance Bolivia Manta. I have my fingers and toes crossed that such a magic thing might be available during my visit.

Good news is that there will be several of us all travelling together. Santiago has agreed to come along as well so there will be at least five of us. We are going to La Paz via Puno. From Puno which is on the Peru side of the lake we will take a boat right across the lake to the town on the other side which is Copacabana in Bolivia. Just the boat trip across the lake will be so fantastic! We will probably all stay one night in Copacabana before moving on to La Paz. In my Lonely Planet on Bolivia I have found a great hotel right in the centre of things situated in the main artesania steep street of shops, choosing this one because it has a reputation of being squeaky clean. Including breakfast and private bathroom it is one of the most reasonable I have seen in that price bracket. I definitely don't want to have to share a bathroom (it is much cheaper if you do) because there is a terrible foot disease called Hongos you can get in South America and I don't want to risk catching it.

All of us are leaving on Sunday but the whole lot of us are meeting up on Friday for a great night out. Santiago is off tonight and not back until Friday which is why we chose this particular night for a great night together before departure from Cusco.

Tomorrow I am going to Machu Picchu for the day with Aquiles, both his parents and his brother. We have to be out of the house by 5 so that we can catch the Indian train which leaves at 6. We are anticipating a horrible problem trying to get me on the Indian train because normally foreigners can only go on the expensive tourist train which costs 70 or more dollars per person. Short of dying my hair black and getting black contact lenses the only other option is to pretend I am married to a Cusco man and thus have the right to travel on the local train. I hope we can succeed because I badly want to travel on that train along with all the indigenous people. Also it leaves 3 hours before the tourist train which means you can enjoy the purity of Machu Picchu sanctuary before the crowds get there. We are also going to bathe in the hot springs of Aguas Caliente (the village below Machu Picchu), and enjoy a meal in one of the many restaurants there. I am looking forward to a really brilliant day out. Had it not been for the fact that Daniel is at school we would have made it a 3 day trip, staying one night in Machu Picchu and the second at their home in Urubamba, visiting Ollantaytambo and Pisac. But we are leaving on sunday so that is impossible. It means Danilo only losing one day of school if we go and come back the same day. Leaving at 5 and coming back sometime quite late in the evening. Machu Picchu is about 70 miles from Cusco. Ann - although expensive I will get you two t-shirts whilst at the village below Machu Picchu.

I am not sure if there will be time to visit Urubamba now. Aquiles Mum went there today but will be back home by 5.30 as she knows we are going out. Aquiles was telling me that when he sneaked in at 4.30 she was just getting ready to leave and he said he had just come downstairs for a drink of water and her reply was that he could not fool her! He would not agree to his Dad's suggestion for an early night tonight due to tomorrow's early departure. He is instead going direct from disco to railway station to meet us there!


Hello From Cusco on Tuesday!
I am taking advantage of every internet cafe opportunity at the moment, a half hour here, a half hour there etc, knowing that once I leave Cusco (except for the time I am in La Paz) I might not get so many opportunities - especially whilst travelling with the friends.

I am in an internet cafe near the house and got here at 9.30 for when it opened and spending a couple of hours catching up on individual replies and now starting this communal one. I am taking the family out to lunch at Quinto Geronimo at 1 pm today, once Danilo gets home from school, and we are all going to play Sapo there, (Sapo means frog) and you have to throw disks into holes and there is some significance with the frog sitting on top the box. The loser each time pays for the drinks - which will more than likely be me!

I am feeling really good today, fully refreshed after two really good nights sleep - I was in bed by 12.15 the night before last and slept a good 8 hours and last night was in bed by 11 and slept 8 and a half hours. I feel I have finally caught up and my ankles are more or less normal too. There are no mosquitos evident here in Cusco so apart from the few bites previously I have been okay. I haven't even been bothering with repellent or burning the disks in my room.

Yesterday was another most enjoyable day. I went to the internet cafe in Plaza de Armas (one of many) knowing the band would come for me there around 12 noon. When by ten past twelve no one had arrived I decided to wait outside. Because Angel had expressed an interest to see it the night before I was wearing my beautiful Cusquena dress which is actually a replica of the dress worn by Virgins of the Sun (except for hat and shoes). Just walking from taxi round to internet cafe heads were swivelling in all directions and I felt a bit self-conscious but got used to it later and felt quite proud wearing such a lovely dress.

When I exited from the internet cafe I had the surprise of my life. Just crossing the road in front of me as I came out the door was a man whose face was familiar and he did a double take and headed straight over to me and said 'You are Angela aren't you?' I was absolutely amazed and he was too. His name is Santiago and plays music often in Covent Garden with his brother Edgar. The last couple of times I saw him was at Contigo Peru in July and after the Kjarkas concert in October - both times in London - so to see him next here in Peru was amazing and sheer coincidence that I was coming out that door at the same moment he was crossing the road. At this point Angel arrived and they knew each other too! We told Santiago that we were going to El Truco and asked him to join us and he said he would in half an hour as he had to do something first. Angel and I walked round to El Truco where the management said they could play. But we could not find the other band members and Angel was quite frantic that they could play but he was missing most of a band! We whizzed back to the internet cafe but still none of them were there. I suggested he check at Patitis and so that he could run I waited on a seat in the middle of the Plaza, which is a beautiful place. It was great sitting there enjoying the sunshine. Five minutes later he rejoined me and there were two of them, we went again to the internet cafe and found another one. By the time we got back to El Truco we had rounded up five musicians, enough for their show in the restaurant. In the meantime I had phoned Aquiles and told him to meet us in El Truco instead of at the internet cafe.

Whilst sitting on a wall outside El Truco above the little park, with the musicians, a dear little boy approached me and sat next to me. He didn't say anything at first but just sat close to me and looking up at me with those lovely dark eyes. When I spoke to him in Spanish he looked quite surprised and I asked him is name and age etc. He was adorable. He had his little satchel on his back and was probably on a lunch break from school. I asked if I could have a photo taken with him and he was really pleased about that. It is just a pity I cannot give him a copy of it later.

I gave him a hug before we went into the restaurant and he said 'gracias amiga'. Unlike the other children here he did not ask for anything and I regretted immensely that I had no change on me to give him. Other children having witnessed my interaction with him approached me trying to sell things by the restaurant door, so that the waiters there were shooing me away. One of them said he would wait outside when I said I had no change (and indeed he did! Luckily I had some change to dispense when we came out again later.

Inside I was given a table right by the dance floor in front of the stage and in a few minutes the band were on stage playing. Aquiles arrived at this moment and we had a beer each whilst enjoying the music. Santiago arrived too whilst the band were still playing. Aquiles was very impressed with the buffet food on offer but appalled at how expensive it is. Knowing his birthday is in February I said I would treat him as his birthday present and we will be going there either tomorrow or Thursday for this.

When the band had finished Angel came over and said that drinks in there were really expensive and we all agreed to go somewhere else and have a drink together. We all strolled round to Fernando's only to find it still closed so as luckily there was another bar upstairs in the same building we went there instead. We ended up staying there for about three hours, making six 1.1 litre bottles of cusquena last between all of us. I was in my element sharing a beer with 8 Peruvian musicians as you can imagine and got the waitress to take a picture of all of us whilst there.

The good news is that Santiago is going to come with us on our travels. All of us are leaving on Sunday but more about that later. He has gone out of Cusco for a couple of days but we are all meeting up again on Friday night. When we left the bar I said I had to get home but would see them again at Patitis as usual about 7.30 and they hailed me a taxi. Back in Marcavalle I got out of this taxi in this local internet cafe where the computers actually have keyboards where you can see the letters on them and the keyboard actually works. (Some don't have working space bars, others throw in 3 or 4 extra spaces in the middle of every word, others throw in extra a's. I managed an hour in here yesterday before having to be back at the house by 5.30. I got back at 5 so that I would have time to freshen up for the evening and then at 5.30 left with Aquiles parents and brother to go to their favourite ayacucheria restaurant. There was no sign of Aquiles at 5.30 but he knew where we would be so we went ahead anyway. I spent a pleasant couple of hours with them in the restaurant - them enjoying the antacuchos that they love so much (which is stuffed sliced beef heart barbecued). Luckily Rocoto Relleno was available and I ordered two, feeling hungry as I had deliberately eaten nothing all day. Alfredo offered me a piece of antecucho to try but I said 'No, I don't think so!' (Yuk!). Aquiles joined us as we were eating and was able to accompany them home afterwards as I was going on into town, with Aquiles saying he would catch up with us at Fernando's later. I wanted to pay the bill but Alfredo would not hear of it saying this one was on him and I could pay next time. Which is why we are going to Quinta Geronimo today which is quite an upmarket place. They are such lovely people I want to take them somewhere really nice.

At Patiti's I was chatting with the band, who were waiting for more customers to arrive in the restaurant before playing. It was a very quiet night and not worth playing for nothing, so I said I would pop along to the internet cafe (the one they know I frequent) and for them to catch up with me there. I did not think it likely they would play at all as there was only one customer in Patitis when I left. Juan arrived first and I was able to show him the web-pages of a friend of mine in the USA who I am putting him in contact with. He was very impressed and wrote a message in her guest book as a prelude to email exchanges. Then Angel arrived and when he saw her webpage pictures felt sure he knew her face from a College event in Cusco 2 years previously. It will seem an even smaller world if this proves to be the case!

By the time 8 of us strolled round to Fernando's, when we got inside Aquiles was already there with 3 of his friends, so we sat on the next table and spent a very pleasant evening. I told them I did not want a late night, knowing the two nights ahead would be really late ones, so we all agreed on just staying for a couple of hours. Having partaken of beer in the afternoon I felt more inclined to soft drinks and had coca cola instead which I shared with the youngest member of the band, a 16 year old.

I really enjoyed myself with them, especially with my favourite two - Juan and Angel - sitting on either side of me - then even more so when they started playing just for me - Juan on Charango and Angel on guitar, one or both of them singing, looking at me as they did so. I felt quite overcome with emotion. They played the five original compositions they have got ready for their forthcoming CD and said that as a dedication to me they would also include the song 'Anjelica' on the CD (this being the closest one can get to Angela here). After singing that one they then played songs to my request - a few by Savia Andina, one by Kjarkas and a few others. Aquiles said from the next table to ask Fernando to turn the music off so that everyone could enjoy their playing and Fernando readily complied. Whilst in there Juan took a photo of Angel (wearing one of his new London T-shirts) and me (in my virgin of the sun dress) with Fernando and his wife and I have promised to send them a copy. When we came out afterwards, leaving Aquiles and his friends behind who were nowhere near ready to go home, planning to go somewhere else afterwards, we hailed a taxi and negotiated a return trip and Juan accompanied me back to the house and saw me safely inside before running back (it was raining quite heavily) to get that same taxi back. I was in bed by ten to eleven listening to my favourite William Luna CD (one of Aquiles which I bought off him as I love it so much) on my walkman to fall asleep to! (And didn't wake up until 7.30 today!).

As you will have gathered we did not go to Machu Picchu today after all. Instead we are going on Friday and Urubamba on Saturday before leaving Cusco on Sunday. I was all set for an exciting trip going by bus to Puno and then by boat across the lake to Copacabana, ending up in La Paz. With three male friends accompanying me - Aquiles, Santiago and Angel - I would have been as safe as houses as far as personal security is concerned, but after receiving an email today from my dear friends in Ilo I am having to think again. Because of heavy rains, risk of landslides on already dangerous and precarious roads, they are insisting I don't travel by road as the whole area is in alert and it is very dangerous indeed. I felt totally dismayed to learn this having reconciled myself to taking some risk by going by road and hoping the roads would be okay. It seems I will be foolhardy to take such a risk. Before I can make a final decision I will talk to both Aquiles and Angel later and then decide. Whatever happens I want to make my reservation by tomorrow or Thursday latest. I am going to propose meeting them in La Paz and fly there ahead of them. I know that flying is beyond Angel's pocket and maybe Aquiles as well. This part of the journey is safe enough as Eddy will already offered to meet me at El Alto airport which is 10 km and at a very high elevation above the canyon which is La Paz. I have already chosen my hotel from my Lonely Planet of Bolivia - Hotel Alem in the street full of artesenia shops and near some of the more popular penas, very central to the hub of things. Once I have booked my flight I will ask Jorge to make the reservation on my behalf.

The only problem is that I have really set my heart on going to Puno for La Fiesta de la Candelaria and there is no airport there. I don't yet know what is the best way to get there, even paying a private taxi if I have to which will be expensive, again meeting up with the friends when I get to Puno. Other musician friends from Angel's band of last visit are already there and I know that Milton and his wife would look after me if I get there before the others. Juan is also going to arrive in Puno in time for La Fiesta de Luces and we could prearrange where to meet up, just in case the others are delayed. I know he would readily do that if I asked him. Then of course there is the problem of how to get to Cusco from Puno, with no airport in Puno, and I don't fancy risking those mountain roads either. The only better part of travelling on mountain roads in Peru rather than Bolivia is that hopefully Peruvian bus drivers aren't alcoholics. Drunken drivers are a real problem in Bolivia. Somehow, whatever the cost I still want to go to La Paz and Puno even if I am still paying for it all on my credit card for 6 months or more afterwards! I have been reading my book on Bolivia to get the feel of La Paz and what one can do and one is possibly a trip to Oruro if my friend Jorge can accompany me. It is only 3 hours from La Paz but I will first check on what the roads are like before deciding. The book also said how to get to the beautiful Sorata valley - it is a dream of mine to one day go there, but I think I will save that delight for the dry season. My next visit here will definitely be in the dry season, hopefully in 18 months time.

Penultimate Message from Cusco.
This lunchtime was the first chance since the afternoon before last to even get near an internet cafe. It has been a busy but enjoyable couple of days, one day never the same as the last! You will probably have a good laugh at some of the things that have happened.

When I left the internet cafe last time I got home and all of us except Aquiles went to the Quinta Andennes de Andrea in San Jeronimo. This meant taking a micro (like a mini bus except they get three times as many people in a micro as they do in a similar sized vehicle back home) and it took about 15 minutes to get to the little village where this Quinta is situated - it is incredibly interesting just driving out of town into the superbs and villages, observing life here on the way. I practically used up a whole film taking pictures of scenes that appealed to me to remind me of all this when I get back home. The scenery each side of the road really beautiful, the houses on the hillside and the mountains etc. I am going to miss the sheer colourfulness of life here so much when I come home.

Micros stop wherever you want them to, stopped for people who hail them down from wherever as well. We got off by a little corner shop in the village and nearby was the entrance to Andennes de Andrea. The sun was shining so we decided to sit at one of the tables in the beautiful garden which was unusual with fountains and waterfalls and water flowing from statues etc, flowers all about. Danilo had lugged a rucksack along with a couple of large beers and coca cola in it, thinking to keep the price of the bill down, but we could see when we got there that that might not be such a good idea after all.

We ordered our meal, with me umming and aarghing, unable to make up my mind. First I chose Lechon and then changed my mind and chose Alpaca steak, but without the moraya, Creole salad - I asked for extra roast potatoes instead, although they are different here and not as nice as back home. We ordered beer and coke and were enjoying ourselves except that half way through the meal a strong breeze struck up, the sun disappeared and it was quite cold and looked like rain with dark clouds above so we all trailed into the conservatory type building nearby. I was quite pleased because the music sounded a lot louder in there than it did outside - my usual favourite Andean music.

When our beer ran out, Danilo opened one of the ones we had brought, but because it was a different brand we put it on the floor between my chair and his which was against the wall so would not be seen by the waiters. We all had lucuma ice-cream for dessert and because I was paying by visa but did not want to let the card out of my sight I insisted on following the waiter to the kiosk and watching the transaction. The first attempt aborted and I kept the slip but second try was okay. The only problem was that returning to the table I completely forgot about the bottle of beer, kicked it over as I sad down and next minute it was like a river of beer everywhere! Of course, I saw the funny side, collapsed in hysterics with Aquiles parents killing themselves laughing as well. We quickly hid the empty bottle (1.1 litre) and if the waiters noticed anything they didn't say anything. Luckily it was a ceramic tiled floor so nothing was spoiled. Afterwards we played sapo in the garden for a couple of hours as by this time the sun had come out again. Then we walked back to the corner shop and as we had to wait for a micro to come along had another drink in there as well, arriving back home eventually with about an hour before I had to go out again.

As you know I had given Angel his birthday present the night before - Sunday - and was meeting both him and Juan at Patitis again on Monday. What I did not know was that after escorting me home on Sunday they had gone off to their local bar and proceeded to get well plastered and were up all night drinking and kept going all day as well! I did not notice this at first when I arrived at Patitis. It was a very quiet period with no customers again so not worth playing and Juan and Angel offered to take me to their local bar and I complied. I was first a bit annoyed with Angel when after showing him a print out of the email warning from my friends in Ilo he poo hooed it as rubbish. Juan's reaction was completely different - he could see my concern. We walked to this little local bar run by a married couple called Barbara and Jose and I ordered a large coca cola and they were drinking some powerful brew made of sugar cane, sharing a glass and drinking it in one as seems to be the way here when friends get together for a drink. Within half an hour Angel was completely gone, could hardly talk and was definitely well and truly drunk, and witnessing him in this state put me right off as you can imagine. I was getting on really well with Barbara and Juan though and never at any moment felt even the slightest bit anxious, knowing instinctively that with Juan I was completely safe. When Angel keeled over, they called a taxi and put him in it, with Barbara's husband seeing him home. Barbara promised to cook something of my choice anytime I wanted and for me to just let her know when. I said maybe the following day but would confirm on the day itself as I never knew from one day until the next what I would be doing!

Juan and I left, walking back in the direction of Kami Kase, stopping first at another little bar and sharing a large Cusquena with another friend of his in there. Whilst in there I needed the bathroom but they would not let me go in there without cleaning it first. When the guy emerged and I went in I realised it did not lock and said I would wait until later. They offered to stand by the door to make sure no one came in. Imagine that! I preferred to remain cross-legged!!!

We walked back towards Plaza des Armas thinking that Arco Iris were playing at Okukus but found they were playing at Kami Kasi instead - we went in and had another excellent evening watching a brilliant live show but by this time poor Juan was struggling to keep his eyes open. For once it was just us two because there was no sign of Aquiles, but one of Juan's friends from QD'Qero Marka joined us about half way through the show. Afterwards we decided on an early night knowing that it would be a late one again the next day. Juan accompanied me home in a taxi, the same taxi taking him back again. This is a delightful arrangement making it safe for me to go out at night and enjoy Cusco night life in complete safety, because when I leave to go out in the early evening, Danilo always comes with me and sees me safely into a taxi too. When we said our goodnights we arranged to meet in the Plaza des Armas at 3 o clock the following afternoon (me not wanting to show up at Patitis as I did not particularly want to bump into Angel). I was in bed by 1 am, pretty early considering I had seen all of a great night music show as well.

Yesterday morning was a hectic one. All week Aquiles Mum and Dad had been frantically trying to work out ways of getting me on that Indian train. The tourism is so tied up here that no one can travel on it unless they are local. So we decided to go the station at Wanchaq and find out what the exact situation would be. We went in a taxi, and as we arrived they pointed out an artesenia shopping centre and we decided to go in there afterwards.

I waited on a seat while they found out the score and they came away appalled. For them the cost from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu is 15 soles, (or 20 from Cusco) but as residents (ie born in) Urubamba (which is the capital of Machu Picchu it would only cost them 4 soles each. But it would cost me 115 dollars - that is 86 dollars for the train fare, 20 dollars entrance to the sanctuary and 9 dollars for the bus journey that zig zags up the mountain to the sanctuary. I said there was no way I could afford that so our only hope is going on the Indian train and can only hope for the best for tomorrow.

We had fun looking at the artesenia shops where I bought some lovely jewellry to take home made of silver and precious stones, the workmanship so detailed and incredible, that although very expensive by Peruvian standards would have cost far more if available back home which it isn't.

After all this we headed for Plaza de Armas and waited for Aquiles to join us. Then instead of just taking Aquiles to El Truco I treated them all to a nice lunch in restaurant just off Plaza de Armas and this was excellent. Whilst in there Alfredo observed - looking at Okukus club in the upstairs of the ancient colonial building across the road, that one day it would collapse it was so old and dilapidated, and both Aquiles and I at the same time said we hoped it would not happen while we were in there!!!!

Afterwards in order to get to Lloyd Aero Boliviano which is in the street leading from the side of Patitis I did a wide detour to get there without passing Patitis, went in, found out about flights and costs and learned flights to La Paz only go on Tuesdays and Saturdays and at a cost of just over 98 dollars each way (dearer than the 87 quoted in Ilo!) I asked when was the latest I could book if I flew on Saturday and they said I could make a reservation any time up until Friday. I then rejoined the others and we all went back, me having just enough time to freshen up and whizz back again to meet Juan at 3 pm, having arranged to catch up with Aquiles in Okukus that night.

As I got out of the taxi I could see Juan near Patitis and waved and then walked out of sight of the restaurant and he caught up with me, still looking pretty tired even after a night's sleep. We decided to go around to Barbara's first and say we would try to pop back again at 7 to eat there. She had her little 8 month old grand daughter with her, a beautiful little girl and I gave her a cuddle. I asked about a photo with the baby and Barbara produced the shawl in which mothers carry a baby on their back, put it around my shoulders complete with baby inside, securing it around my neck and with the ends tucked under the baby and it felt really good - not uncomfortable or heavy - a great way of carrying a baby or young child without getting tired. Juan took a photo and I took one of Barbara with the baby too - again promising to send copies which I will. At least these places have an address!

After that we walked to Plateros, into one of the artesania centres so that Juan could introduce me to two friends - Gorky and Lydia (both Peruvians) who had a shop there - a young married couple. They were really nice and as we were going to another local bar La Chompa which is much bigger, we invited them along as well. We spent a couple of hours in there although I was the odd one out drinking coca cola while they enjoyed large Cusquenas. I had to abstain because I was donating blood the next day and could not have alcohol in it! When we left we went back to their artesania shop and at this point I said I would pop home as the clothes I was wearing were no where near warm enough for evening. So not knowing how long Juan would be detained at Patitis Gorky and Lydia said for us all to meet up again there - at their shop.

When I returned at 8.30 I walked in only to find Angel was there and I could not backtrack as he had already spotted me. I didn't know what to do. He spoke and I replied but with eyes on intent on artesania goods rather than looking at him. At this point Juan arrived so I felt slightly more comfortable. Juan spoke to them first and when he came to me a few moments later said that Angel had gone. Then we all decided to go to the bar upstairs as a music show was about to begin, friends of theirs. This was really enjoyable and I took pictures. I was admiring a beautiful Peruvian coat left on top of the instrument boxes and later when the guy came to reclaim it I said what a lovely coat it was and asked if he had bought it in Cusco. He said No, in Lima and Juan asked how much it had cost him. I thought the price sounded quite reasonable and jokingly asked if he wanted to sell it and he agreed! He took it off so that I could try it on and it was almost a perfect fit (I need to lose about 4 kilos first) and I could see it was very warm. I need such a coat for the cold climate of Puno so agreed to the price saying I would bring the money the following afternoon. He offered to let me take the coat there and then, trusting me to pay up next day which I thought was great. When I asked if he wouldn't be cold without it he said no problem as he would wear one of the ponchos the band were wearing whilst they played.

Then another band appeared and pulled up chairs in a semi circle in front of our table between us and the stage and next minute were playing just for us. This was great and yet again I could choose a lot of the songs. One by one I am getting to know all the musicians all over Cusco and if I was here long enough could probably get to know all of them! During our time in La Chompa I had a long chat with Gorky about the work he is doing which involves distributing funds raised in North America to help the indigenous people here by building schools and hospitals, teaching useful crafts to them so that they can earn a better living etc, something along the lines of the work Oxfam does. If I wanted to I could play a part in this and it is something I am going to investigate when I get back home, both by approaching the organisations concerned in North America and also by asking Oxfam as the work is similar to what they do. i.e. using the money not to just hand out of the people but using the money to help as many people as possible to help themselves.

Gorky offered to look after my other coat in his shop overnight. Juan was having another early night because of the early departure to Machu Picchu on Friday (having been invited to join us by me after consultation with Aquiles, in hopes it would further strengthen my chances of getting me on the Indian train. Juan is of pure Indian descent and with his long hair, dark skin and features looks exactly like a native American Indian.)

We then went to Okukus - by this time it was about quarter to eleven - for the Totem live concert I had been looking forward to since the previous Saturday. When we climbed the stairs I took the short cut to enter the room nearest the stage, looking in appalled dismay to see that every possible table and chair was occupied, when suddenly spotted Aquiles and 3 friends on a table to my left, right in front of the stage, with room for more chairs if we could find them. Gorky and Lydia had agreed to accompany me to Okukus, knowing how badly I wanted to see Totem, but once they realised I would be okay with Aquiles and his friends they said their goodnights and we agreed to meet up at 5 the next day.

The Totem concert was one of the best I have seen ever. I would put it in the same class as Kjarkas in October. I was completely mesmerised at the incredible sounds produced by this incredible and unique band. Just before they all climbed on the stage at the side of our table, Aquiles stopped one of them and said to me this was Dante's best friend and told Marco that I was a good friend of Dante's, and he shook hands. The show lasted about an hour and a half and I was in heaven as you can imagine. For anyone who does not know the story I first heard andean music in Sept 1999 which was Dante's band - Amaru III - bought the first 2 CDs in what is now a 1500 collection, and then was frantic to get more. Luckily the CD cover gave a contact number which was Dante - which I phoned to ask about more CDs and as he was appearing at a charity concert in Bristol a week later he agreed to bring the other two that were available. One of these was Johnny's band - Kausary - 'Prayers to the Sun' and the other was Totem's one and only CD. Ever since I have been waiting for Totem to produce another CD and of all my hopes here in Cusco before arriving, the two bands I wanted to see most were Amazonas and Totem, and to achieve this dream regarding one of them was fantastic.  Towards the end of the show, a birthday greeting was expressed by Marco to someone in the audience and then next he spoke to me in both Quechua and Spanish, saying 'A big welcome to Dante's friend from England'. I was really chuffed about this and then as the band exited the stage after a very long encore Aquiles said how much I would love a photo with the band and Marco agreed. Aquiles said to follow them and I did and spoke to Marco's son, one of the flute players, who said to hang on and he rounded up the other band members, all 7 of them, and we all gathered in a group and a young girl nearby took 2 photos. I was so thrilled about this and had a chat with Marco and learned that the new CD was still being finalised and it would probably be another 6 months or so until it was finally produced. Something I definitely look forward to. They are brilliant rock musicians - apart from all their own material they also did a couple of brilliant renditions of songs by Los Jaivas (a rock band from Chile).

After that I rejoined Aquiles and his friends. The disco would be continuing until the early hours and I decided to stay a bit longer because it was pouring with rain outside, a real deluge. Aquiles got me up on the dance floor and we danced about four songs really fast until I had no breath left and in fact quite giddy walking back to my seat, forgetting that high up these mountains you have to take into consideration the altitude. I had to sit still a while before I dared get up again to get to the bathrooms downstairs as what with the giddy feeling, the strobe lights etc, I felt quite disorientated for about ten minutes!!!

I stayed about another hour as I was quite tired too and knew Aquiles would be there for hours yet. Aquiles said he would see me safely into a taxi outside and he immediately spotted amongst the ones outside one of his friends and said I would get home safely with him. It was still a deluge of rain and the roads were awash and flooded and a real messy drive home but enlived by chatting to the driver who is called Jorge. When he realised I was a friend of Dante he said he knew Dante's wife Caroline, that they had known each other for years, and asked me to say Hello to Caroline on his behalf.

Back home Jorge parked the taxi and escorted me to the gate - both of us getting wet feet as the path was about 4 inches deep in running water - and saw me safely inside and saying goodnight. It was about 3 in the morning again as I climbed into bed! All day after lunch with Aquiles and his family I had decided not to eat anything, plus I had been drinking coca cola all day and gave that up as well from 7 pm onwards, not partaking of anything so that my blood would not be contaminated the next day, and what a chaotic morning that proved to be as you will see from what follows.

Transport Strike in Cusco Today.

I thought I had better send what I have written in case of losing it for some reason! I am continuing now to tell you about a really different morning. Even though we knew all transport was on strike today we felt pretty sure we could get some kind of transport to the hospital. We left the house just after 8, Alfredo and me and it seemed incredible to see no traffic on Avenida de la Cultura, just foot traffic, bicycles, tricycles etc. A tricycle here is a bike with 3 wheels but with a cart fixed on the front of it which is usually full of the fruit or vegetables that are for sale. There was one nearby and as there was no sign of any cars, taxis or any kind of traffic at all we asked the guy how much he would charge to take us to the nearby hospital in it. When he said 4 soles I nearly died laughing at Alfredo's reaction, saying how could he expect us to pay 4 soles to ride in that when we could normally go by taxi for less! Someone else agreed to pay it and next minute it was gone! We had to wait a while then and I could not help but smile at how Peruvians adapt to such situations, especially when there is a chance to earn something in the process. There were people riding bicycles with a passenger perched on the cross bar, the passenger having agreed to pay to get somewhere in that uncomfortable manner. Eventually a collectivo came along which is somewhere between a micro and a taxi, ie taking as many passengers as can possibly be crammed in, negotiating the direction to take. A collectivo is only a car which would normally hold 4, max 5 passengers but I lost count of how many got in. Alfredo sat with 3 others in the front (one was the driver) and it was impossible to get in the back with the 4 or 5 already in there, so there was no alternative but to climb in the boot which already contained someone! Luckily it was an estate car and two of us sat in the back end bit and we were driven to the hospital, with a slight detour on the way to drop off 2 people and pick up 2 more. I was glad I had not worn one of my white skirts because the boot/hatch area was quite muddy.

At the hospital we were met with a situation we had not bargained on. The gates of the hospital were closed with a row of police in front of those gates each with shield on the ground in front of him and an angry throng all around. We approached the police to ask what was happening and he explained. We too explained what we were there for but he said there was no way those gates could be opened but that if we were prepared to wait an hour we might be able to go in then. The crowd were campesinos, country people, and listening to the shouting and looking at the placards I could see that part of the protest was the fact that they did not have the right to use that hospital. There is a separate hospital for the campesinos somewhere else. At one point they were all chanting something with the world Inglaterra in it and looking at me but I didn't feel any sense of danger because there were a lot of women in the crowd and it was mostly them chanting this. I gathered from talking to Alfredo that they were appealing to me to get their voice heard and for someone in England to help re this inequality. Next minute a reporter with camcorders arrived and there was lots of yelling and screaming and then a big fight broke out and all the police rushed over to contain it. Alfredo and I scarpered in the opposite direction and moved off down the road and sat on the kerb on the opposite side amongst the campesino women who sit there all day with their wares for sale. About half an hour later we realised the crowd was dispersing and the gates opened to admit people and we made our way over and into the hospital.

There followed a couple of hours of red tape going from one floor to another, up and down in the lift, long walks etc, and poor Alfredo was exhausted and I took his arm to support him as he looked on the point of collapse at times. Eventually we had secured all the necessary bits of paper and could get to the department where my blood would be taken. This involved a pin prick first to take a little blood and test it, and we were really disappointed that after all that time I was unable to donate. Apparently I have only enough blood in my body for myself and none left over and that to take any out would put my own health at risk. Whereas other people have more than they need and they are the ones who can donate. I was really disappointed and so was Alfredo, but he was able to arrange to go back on Sunday, this time with Aquiles and get a transfer from him (they are the same blood group).

Back outside the hospital again there was no transport to be seen in any direction and we had to start walking but about five minutes later I saw one of those tricycle cart things coming towards us and asked the man how much to take us to Marcavalle and he said 2.5 soles with Alfredo trying to get it down to 2! I said we had better accept before we lose the only transport in sight so he agreed. I climbed in first and then him and the guy on the back cycled us home. It was so funny, especially once back on the dual carriageway which is Avenida de la Cultura, normally a difficult road to cross because of the traffic, but this morning just loads of people walking, a few cycling etc and more of these tricycle carts. And seeing a foreigner in one of them was a source of great amusement to many, heads swivelling with surprise. I quite enjoyed it really - it was such fun and I was really annoyed with myself for not taking my camera with me to capture such a funny moment! Every time I forget to take it I end up disappointed, even taking a taxi home and straight back to get it at times. This morning I thought there was no way I would need a camera just going to hospital - who would have imagined how wrong I could be! Talking about the hospital - I must say how impressed I was with this large modern building, spotlessly clean inside and apparently run with incredible efficiency and probably as good if not better than ours at home. It is run by El Salud (there motto being 'mas salud por mas peruanos' (which means 'more health for more Peruvians). Seeing this excellence I could better understand the campesino's outrage at not getting the same treatment. Their hospitals are nowhere near as good. I really feel sorry for these country people who are probably descendents of the original population here before the conquistadors arrived and this is why I want to find out more about the work Gorky was telling me about - as well as running their little shop, he is heavily involved in distributing funds to outlying places, travelling as far off as Bolivia and Ecuador with others travelling out to all the central American countries affected by affects of el nino (hurricanes and floods). Here in Peru the heavy rains are causing floods, houses to collapse into rivers and Lake Titicaca is so overflowing with water that Puno is in a state of alert. This is a situation I will ask both Naomi and Alfredo and Elva and Hugo to keep a watch on for me whilst I am in Bolivia, so that I am up to date with the situation.

As you know from my email a couple of days back I was frantically trying to work out how to still visit both La Paz and Bolivia but without going by road. Well I have worked it out and am eagerly looking forward to this next stage of the adventure. I am leaving for La Paz on Saturday morning. The flight leaves here at 10 am, arriving La Paz about an hour later where Eddy will meet me and escort me to my chosen hotel (which I am emailing Jorge today about to reserve for me - the Rumillajta studio is very close to the hotel I have chosen, right in the centre of things, so it should be easy for him to pop down and make the reservation on my behalf. I will probably stay there until Thursday or Friday depending on how I get on there, and then fly back here. It means spending 200 dollars on flights there and back but well worth it when even Naomi and Alfredo were worried sick at the thought of me travelling by road as well.

Although one can fly to Juliaca this is still an hour by bus away from Puno. Then from Puno it would have meant getting back to Juliaca and then another flight. Three such flights would have cost me a fortune so reducing it to two has helped a little bit. Had I been here in the dry season this problem would not have occurred but although warm and sunny in the mornings, sometimes into mid or late afternoon as well, at some point you know the rain will come and boy does it arrive with a vengeance. A couple of hours of such rains and the roads are awash with water.

Whilst at Wanchaq station yesterday morning enquiring about Machu Picchu Alfredo and Naomi also asked about going by train. It is about 380 kilometres from Cusco to Puno and I was delighted that one can get there by train. Both Naomi and Alfredo said it was much much safer than travelling by road so this is how I am going to go. The train leaves at 7 in the morning and arrives at 7.30 in the evening, stopping at anywhere up to 100 stations along the way. There are umpteen 'kilometre number so and so' along the way where people can get off or hail down the train. The cost is quite reasonable so I am looking forward to travelling all day in this way. Alfredo said he had a big bicycle chain I could secure my suitcase with to the racks or anything. He said unless I did that, a trip to the loo of only one minute would result in a missing suitcase upon my return and that to fall asleep would be even more disastrous!!!!

Since then that problem has been solved because Juan is going to accompany me to Puno on the train. With two of us travelling we can keep an eye on each other's things and I will be completely safe in this unknown town with him to protect me and he really is protective and a lovely guy. Even though he had partaken of as much alcohol as Angel over that 2 day celebration of Angel's birthday, he was always his gentle courteous self. His family live on a small island in the middle of lake Titicaca and he is going to take me there so that I can meet the whole family and has also promised we will visit Isla del Sol, another of the islands which is a really sacred place. I will probably only have time for a maximum of 4 days in Puno to enjoy Fiesta de la Candelaria but it should be quite an exciting time. Lots of other Puneno musicians (ones met here in Cusco plus the ones befriended last year) will be there and it will be wonderful, I am especially looking forward to seeing Milton and his wife again who I befriended along with Angel on my last visit. Juan and my USA friend are in email contact now and Juan is really looking forward to meeting her next year - both of us - because Layla and I are thinking of coming to Peru together in July of 2004. It will be her first visit and my third and all the adventures of mine that she has been reading about now she will be sharing with me next year!

The next excitement to look forward to is Machu Picchu tomorrow - if I can get there! To make it more sure we are getting up about 4, leaving the house at 5 and getting the bus to Ollantaytambo to get on the train there. We have two options in mind which might help me get on that train. One is that Naomi has 2 Urubamba identity cards and as long as we are not seen together at the station are going to try passing one of those cards off as mine as there is a slight resemblance between us. (Aquiles thinks of me as his second Mum when he is in England, saying I remind him of her - which is a big compliment because he absolutely adores her!) If that does not work we have Juan with us and will try to convince the ticket guy that he is my husband (probably a hopeless case as Juan is only 26!!) But we are going to try anyway. The biggest giveaway is my hair and eye colour. I said to Aquiles 'what about buying a black wig' and he said 'if you are going to spend that kind of money you may as well spend 115 dollars and go on the other train!!!). Juan has agreed to wear some authentic costume to accentuate his pure blood Indian-ness and I am going to wear my Nusta dress (virgin of the sun dress). It is doubtful now whether or not there will be time to go to the market where I can get the matching headgear and shoes, especially in view of this transport strike, but hopefully I may be able to get there somehow when I go back now. We were laughing at the table before I came out now at the thought of Naomi and me in one of those carts. Alfredo said with us two in there it would fall apart with one wheel going in one direction and the second in the opposite direction!!!!

Stuck Overnight Below Machu Picchu.

I finally arrived at Aguas Calientes, the village below Machu Pichu, half an hour ahead of the others, only to find when I tried to book a ticket back that all the trains are full except one leaving at 1.20. There is no way I am going back without seeing Machu Picchu, especially having travelled so far, which means I will miss my flight to La Paz in the morning.

We were up at 4, having such a laugh in Aquiles Mums bedroom with me trying on her clothes to try and fit me up with a disguise to look Peruvian enough for travel on the Indian train. We were literally hysterical. A taxi to the station with me left on one side, Aquiles enquired and it transpired I could not travel on it / too many security about and intense checking. Aquiles sent me home to get my passport just in case and said we would have a better chance at Ollantaytambo.

When I returned we took a taxi to the bus station and took the bus to Urubamba, an awesomely beautiful drive through incredible countryside. Then a second bus so that 2 hours later we arrived in Ollantaytambo where we had an hour to spare. We walked about, enjoyed a delicious lamb soup at an outdoor stall, but when it came to buying our train tickets same problem. There was no other way for it but for me to travel on the posh train reserved for tourists at 27.5 dollars with them catching the later local train for 3 dollars. This was okay although it annoyed me intensely the patronising way the Americans on the train dealt with local people. I was sitting next to a young guy who thought I was American but when we got talking we had loads to talk about because he too is travelling through Peru and is going on to Argentina. He is from France but has Spanish parents so we communicated in a mixture of French, Spanish and English!

The train arrived at Aguas Caliente at 12.15 which is when I discovered the dilemma regarding the train back. I am going to have to stay overnight in a hotel here but if I do I will be up early and visit the sanctuary again properly early in the morning. I am waiting for the local train to arrive to discuss the problem with Aquiles. There are three of them and I cannot imagine they will be able to afford to stay overnight so I will be on my own here. Which is no problem as the people are lovely and friendly. First priority before taking the bus up the mountain to the sanctuary is finding me a place to stay overnight and hope Aquiles can sort that out for me. Luckily I brought my credit card in case I run out of cash!

The weather here is incredible, it feels tropical and balmy and there are lots of birds. Walking to the station from Ollantaytambo beside the turbulent rushing Urubamba river, the variety of birdsong was incredible, giant cactus and lovely flowers, odd looking trees, sun beating down from a blue sky. A far cry from this morning when we left / it was raining and grey. My disguise involved an old fashioned hat and sunglasses and I s aid to Aquiles in the taxi on the way -Don-t you think it looks a bit suspicious wearing sunglasses when it isn't even light yet and raining into the bargain!- He agreed and said to take them off.

I think I can hear the train so will have to go. It arrives in the middle of the main street!

An Overnight Stay in Machu Picchu.

It is 8.30 at night and I am still here not having been successful in getting myself on a train back to Cusco today - every train was full and despite intervention and help from a local Peruvian it proved impossible to get on the Indian train even though it was quite empty. Apparently the station staff risk jail if they let foreigners on the Indian train.

Aquiles train pulled in the station about the time I was finishing my earlier email and when I told him the bad news he was great saying not to worry, that they would all stay overnight too. We spoke to a guy near the ticket office who said that sometimes odd tickets were available close to time of travel so we said we would come back later and see, as such tickets were only on offer about half an hour before train departure.

By this time it was already 1 pm so we decided not to go up to the sanctuary as by the time we got a bus up the mountain and back down we would have been lucky to get an hour in the sanctuary and 9 dollars each bus fare plus 20 dollars each entrance fee was too expensive for such a short visit.

We decided to go to Aguas Calientes instead. It was a long and very steep hike up to the point where we could pay our entrance fees and I was quite puffed out but that was nothing to the walk from pay kiosk to the actual baths - the path and steps were so steep and I found it quite hard to keep up with the others but the beauty of the Urubamba river was breathtaking - rushing down from high above, really turbulent waters. We had to cross a rickety bridge over this river, quite high up, and the creaky boards made me hope I could get across without one of them giving way. At this point the heavens opened and luckily for the first time I had carried my rain poncho having popped it in my bag at the last minute. By the time we reached Aguas Calientes - the actual hot baths - I was quite shattered and we were all dripping wet. we tested the waters and they were incredibly warm, hot springs coming up from deep in the earth and full of minerals and reputed to give one energy in addition to the energy from actually being in this fantastic place. There were a series of baths and fountains of water and people were really enjoying themselves. Had we felt inclined to bathe we could have hired swimwear and towels but didn't. We sat at the little outdoor bar and rested for an hour and then made our way back, stopping first for a coffee and then much further down the steep street decided to go into a restaurant to eat. The set menu price was 8 soles each but the girl said that for me it was a special price of 6 soles and when Aquiles realised what we got for that price he agreed and we went in. The food was excellent, delicious soups which I followed with alpaca steak and we were given freshly squeezed fruit juices and a free pisco sour. At 4.10 I left them in the restaurant and went back down to the ticket office to try for any spare ticket and the same guy confirmed that there were none. This is when a very helpful Peruvian man did his best on my behalf to persuade the ticket men to let me be an exception on the Indian train - but to no avail. However he did discover there was an early train leaving at 5.30 in the morning and that if I got in the queue at 4.30 I would be able to get a ticket. He also confirmed that the last 2 carriages of the train would be for local people at the local price. When I caught up with Aquiles again he said he would try and get up so that we were all on that train even though not together until Ollantaytambo, but I said even if he didn't I would be okay. The first hotel we asked near the station wanted 50 dollars a night. But we found another little one quite close by which is more for locals and got very reasonably priced rooms for the night. Since then we have been really enjoying the ambience of an evening in this delightful village and I am almost glad we were stuck here overnight to discover that when I am here on my next visit it is easily possible to visit Machu Picchu without going on a tour to get here without trying to cram it all into one day. I am going to spend a week here next visit. One can get as far as Ollantaytambo on the bus for a very reasonable price and then get one of the trains - the one I caught this morning was 27.5 dollars one way. Then by staying here for a week there is a lot to do. First the next day one can get the first bus up the mountain and be there before the crowds arrive and enjoy as much time as possible up until 5 pm in the sanctuary. The following day it is possible to climb Wayna Picchu, the mountain behind the Inca city. Another day one could get on a day trip to Vilcabamba and it is also possible to go even further to Quillabamba which is right on the edge of the jungle. Apparently there is a fantastic waterfall well worth the trip. All this, the lovely friendly people here in the village, the restaurants, shops and little bars, one could have a really fantastic week here, enjoying the baths as well. This will be a very important part of my agenda next visit.

After setting into the hotel we strolled around all the little shops and I bought an alarm clock to make sure I get up plus a knitted top which is a cross between a sweater and a poncho and made of alpaca wool, with llama design on it - all in black and white. It was expensive but I just could not resist it.

Then we came across some musicians who were about to play in El Viejo Bar and went in for some beers and listened to the show. The others have gone up to the baths to actually swim this time but I declined not fancying that hike again and in the dark. I was quite happy to wait here in the internet cafe which is right by our hotel.

Juan didn't make it but I have had such a nice time with Aquiles and his friends that I did not mind too much. His band were playing at a birthday party last night which he said would not finish until 1 am but said he would phone the house at 4, and for us to meet at the station. He didn't phone which is probably because he did not wake up in time. We were all supposed to meet up tonight, Santiago included, but I won't now see them for another week because of my departure for Bolivia.

Once I wake up tomorrow it will be an anxious several hours. The train takes 2 hours to reach Ollantaytambo and the man I spoke to today will await me at the station. I will have to wear my virgin of the sun dress again even that early, because he will recognise me in a chaotic crowd by that dress. Had I taken the bus from there to Cusco it would have been a further 2 hours - it is much further than I thought, but by paying for a private taxi I have a slim chance of getting to the airport in time to get my flight. It is worth trying anyway. The taxi will stop at the house - luckily my mini case is half packed and I just have to throw in a few items. If I forget anything I will replace it in La Paz. I need to be in and out of the house in five minutes and the taxi will take me on to the airport where I still have to buy the ticket already reserved in my name. I hope I can make it because I imagine Eddy has got my earlier email confirming my arrival. I would be upset if he did the 10 km trip up to El Alto only to find I wasn't on the plane.

I will try and send an email tomorrow to let you know if I made it or not as I will probably get an opportunity at some point during the day - definitely by the next day if not. Today certainly proved more of an adventure than expected. We may not have visited the sanctuary but I have taken some fantastic photos both on the way to get here and here in Aguas Caliente itself - even one of the train arriving in the main street, the local one that Aquiles and friends would have returned on had it not been for me. Although I probably would have been okay here on my own, he did not hesitate to stay behind and his friends did not mind either and I really appreciate that.

Hopefully I will be tucked up in bed by about 11 pm, as long as they don't want to go for another drink when they get back from their swim.

Hi From La Paz.

Well I made it ... just! But it was quite an anxious 6 hours. Luckily I bought an alarm clock the night before as I didn't get the alarm call I asked for! Also because I was afraid of oversleeping I leapt out of bed about 3 times in the night to switch on the light and check the time. When I woke at 3 and looked out it was a deluge of rain but thankfully by 4.30 when I left the hotel it had eased to a trickle.

There was a small queue at the ticket office nearby and a young girl doing a brisk trade in teas, coffees and snacks. I had a coffee while I was waiting and then as the queue eased off I asked her if she would accompany me to the tourist train station which she readily agreed to do and I was glad about that because I would have felt uneasy taking that walk on my own at that time of morning while it was still dark. I gave her a good tip to reflect my relief too. By this time it was only ten to five and one could not board the train yet. People were finally allowed to board at 5.15 and the train pulled out of the station at 5.30 with a 2 hour journey to Ollantaytambo. It was just getting light as the train left and I enjoyed the scenery as we travelled although dozed off a couple of times.

We were about 10 minutes late arriving in Ollantaytambo and I was one of the first off the train. The man who had arranged my taxi to Cusco the night before waved to me, easily recognising me by my Nusta (virgin of the sun) dress worn the day before. When I left the hotel in the morning to look as inconspicuous as possible I put on my disguise again over the dress and was able to take the disguise off on the train as most people seemed to be sleeping and did not notice.

There the man handed me over to the taxi driver who was getting two thirds of the fare, and I gave the other third to the man who had arranged it all. Ollantaytambo was a chaos of tour buses and taxis and we could not get out and the car in front was missing its driver, so another 5 minutes or so was wasted there. The taxi driver knew he had to get me to the airport in time (i.e. within an hour instead of the 2 or more hours it would take by bus). And to give him an incentive I told him I would give him a 20% tip on the whole fare. This put a big smile on his face and he put his foot down and travelled as fast as he could at every opportunity - not always easy as it was a mainly uphill drive reascending to the Cusco altitude, beeping his horn at anything that got in the way, e.g. cyclists, people pushing carts or herding animals. If I thought the scenery was beautiful on the way the day before I could hardly believe how fantastic it looked on such a bright warm sunny day. I took several photos and hope the camera does them justice. None of last years photos seemed to portray the dramatic landscape here in the same way as seeing it appear before your eyes.

We were within 15 minutes of Cusco when we were stopped by a police patrol. I was convinced this meant we would miss the flight but luckily after getting out of the vehicle and crossing the road to a police check point, his papers were okay and within 5 minutes he was back and we were on our way again. We could not go direct to the airport because I had to collect my suitcase which I hadn't even packed yet. I flew in the door and they knew I was rushing to get a flight, Aquiles having explained the night before, and I just threw things in the case and slammed it shut and was out again within about 2 minutes, giving Aquiles mum a quick hug and saying I would email them from La Paz and Danilo carried my case out for me. It was only a small case and I am sure it is only because of this that they allowed me on the plane. By the time I arrived it was too late to check in luggage, and they let me take that and another bag bulging and overflowing with things on as hand luggage. By the time I went through and went to the departure gate it was gone ten to ten with the flight leaving at ten. Another five minutes and I would have missed it I reckon.

The flight was excellent as usual, especially flying over Lake Titicaca and looking at the islands and wondering which was Juan's home and which was Isla del Sol. Coming in to land over the altiplano was interesting but we had a bumpy landing, one of the worst I've known yet. We seemed to be hovering over the runway a while before it landed, making one wonder if the plane would run out of runway! No problem though and soon we were there. I didn't notice any difference in the altitude which is quite amazing because El Alto airport is 4000 metres up.

I wasn't expecting to be met, having emailed the night before to the friends here that I probably would not get back to Cusco in time for my flight. Once through passport control and out towards the exit, a young man called me from behind a desk offering a map of the city and I said yes I would love one. He asked where I would be staying and I said Hotel Alem and he asked how would I like to stay in a better hotel for the same price just around the corner from Hotel Alem. When he said it was a brand new hotel I agreed and when I told him I was staying 7 nights he further reduced the price so that I was saving around 35% on the usual price - the price charged being what I would have paid at Hotel Alem.

The name of this hotel is Condeza and is also in the Calle Sarganaga, right in the heart of the steep street full of artesania shops and there are penas (folk music clubs) nearby, one within walking distance. As the taxi turned into the narrow lane leading to the hotel entrance I saw a big poster on the wall saying that Llajtaymanta are playing tonight, so as long as I can track down where I will definitely be going there tonight even if on my own.

Once inside the hotel I was taken up to my room by a porter and was amazed at what a fantastic room I have for the price paid. It has two double beds in it, is well furnished with parquet floors and rugs and has its own bathroom. All really clean and excellent, and complete with TV and phone. The price even includes breakfast, so I definitely know where I will always be staying on future visits to La Paz.

After a shower to cool down and putting all my things away I exited the hotel an hour or so later and walked back up the hill to where I saw the poster but it does not say where the concert is being held. I will probably have to phone my friends and ask but I have made my way downhill towards Plaza San Francisco hoping I can find out more down there. Before doing so I strolled through the little street market and enjoyed an outdoor meal of chicken sajta which was delicious. I have come to the conclusion that some of the most delicious food is cooked and served in the street and is well worth any risks re the preparation of it. Before reaching Plaza San Francisco I found this internet cafe so am writing to let you know I got here okay, especially in view of waking up so very far from Cusco. It is a miracle really that I made it. If I can find out where that concert is tonight I will be even more glad to have got here today rather than Tuesday.

The one thing I am regretful about is not seeing Juan and the others - Santiago - Lydia and Gorky. There has been no time to say I cannot travel to Puno until 9th Feb so don´t know if they are prepared to wait for me or not. Aquiles is happy to leave when I return though so I will definitely have him along. After leaving here I am going to phone Ruben at his brother Juan Carlos's house - especially as Jacco sent me an email saying they are waiting to hear from me. It will be lovely to see Ruben in his own hometown instead of Bath, as well as meeting his brother. As far as I remember his flight back is tomorrow.
Monday Morning in La Paz.

Following my last email on my day of arrival here in La Paz I thought I would write again so that you know all is well here. After my message on Saturday my first stroke of luck was finding one of Eddy Lima's two shops without purposefully looking for them. I spent about an hour with Ana Luisa in one shop. She is Eddy's main shop assistant and she remembered me from my last visit. Eddy had given me her telephone number as well as his own. Poor Eddy had an accident and is in bed with fractured ribs at the moment so I have not seen him yet but hope to during the week.

After the hour in one shop she called for someone to mind that shop and then took me to the other. This involved a steep uphill climb which I found very difficult and had to keep stopping to get my breath. I have had no ill affects from this high altitude apart from breathlessness on the steep hills and by steep I mean steep! Then she sent out for iced cokes and mate de coca tea and would not let me pay for them, a favour I will be returning at the first opportunity.

Much of the music available in the two shops I already have but I have picked out loads to listen to and have already picked definite ones to buy. Three that I am definitely buying are by Viento de Los Andes (Jose Arciniegas), vols 1, 2 and 3 (1997, 1999 and 2001)which are absolutely brilliant. Also a fantastic charango CD called Manolo Criollo y su charango - De Mis Manos (2001). From 3 available by Hijos del sol I chose one called 'Puro Oro' as well as a very traditional CD - along similar lines to Awatinas - by Hiru Hicho called 'Los Sonidos de Nuestra Identidad (2000). Bringing the total up to 6 so far I will also be buying a special Project CD of Eddy Lima's called Zartam - Musica de los Andes (2002). There is still some rock/andean fusion CDs to listen to - eg Loukass 'Akasa' and Alcoholia 'Agonica'. The hard part will be trying to keep my purchase down to 10 CDs plus pay for one not available yet - Eddy Lima's own next cd which won't be available for a month or so. At least this one can follow by post when available. In addition to this 11, I purchased 2 from another shop yesterday - one is the latest Nazca 'Punto' (2002) and the other is Pawkar Raymi - arte y cultura - festival cultural 2002, Peguche, Ecuador - (groups playing are Conjunto Peguche, Quillas, Charijayac, Jailli, Winiaypa, Rych and Nazca)

I had an email from Jacco to say that Ruben and Juan Carlos were waiting to hear from me and he provided two telephone numbers but I have not had any success getting through to either number yet. The house number is never answered and when I ring the cellular all I get is music! and each time I try it costs money. Unfortunately I was unable to make contact with Ruben while he was still here as his flight home was yesterday but maybe I will yet get to meet his brother Juan Carlos. A further email from Jacco today gave me other numbers to try and the name of a gallery to visit to meet one of his best friends. After leaving here I will try to find this gallery.

Saturday night I gave up on hearing the band because I arrived much too early - this was Llajtaymanta who were playing at Pena Pub Puerta del Sol. A fantastic band who come from the extreme south of Bolivia near the Argentine border. I have at least 4 of their CDs at home and adore their music, but the circumstances of waiting so long to see the performance were such that I gave up and went back to the hotel an hour before they were due to play.

I arrived there way too early at 8 pm, not knowing what time the show would start - according to my Lonely Planet book, shows could start as early as 8 pm. I stayed a couple of hours as a man and his daughter started chatting to me as soon as I sat down at a table, the man speaking in English as he had been to Europe, and when the band came out about 9.30, Oscar introduced me to the main band member, the violinist, who greeted me with a kiss on the cheek. But the band were only on stage then for their sound checking and it sounded really promising, but 15 minutes later they came off stage and I thought oh no. Whilst this was going on Oscar took his leave as he had to get his daughter home and once they had gone I felt really awkward sitting on my own. In those 2 hours the hall had filled up and there were lots of tables with just men on them and I felt too uneasy to stay. I did not want to take the risk of any problems later in what was basically a drinking place with music laid on. So reluctantly when I had finished my beer I left and luckily there were taxis waiting outside. Even though it was only a five minute walk to my hotel it was too dangerous to attempt it on my own in the dark and I was back at the hotel in no time at all. As well as mugging to beware of there are also lots of dogs wandering about. Until now though I haven't come across any dangerous ones like the ones encountered on my last visit.

Pena Huari where I went on my last visit is walking distance from my hotel which is where I saw Kala Marka last time. I will probably go there tonight and see if there is anything on. I remember it as a restaurant as well as a place for folkloric shows so it will a nice place to relax for a meal even if there is no show on Mondays. By the way Kala Marka have a new CD out but it is not available in the shops. They are selling that one themselves so unless I can get in touch with Rudolpho Choque it will be difficult to get that one. I may still have an email from him from last year. If so I will send him an email later or tomorrow.

Yesterday as it was Sunday I stayed in the streets around and near the hotel first for at least an hour going from one end to the other of a big street market where I bought two leather belts with Bolivia and designs on, one for me and one for Colin, plus a coin purse for Colin in his favourite style and a beautiful dress for Jasmine which I hope Ceri will let her wear!

Also near my hotel are the main artesenia shops and streets which I will be exploring over a period of days, interspersed with further visits to Eddy's shops. Another CD I am definitely buying is Mallku de los Andes en vivo - despues de 20 anos (2002).With the Loukass and Alcoholika cds that is 9 so far from Eddy's shop. CDs here are not cheap - 90 bolivianos each which is 100 when paying by visa. Even copies are 65 bolivianos as compared to Peru - where you can get 10 CDs for the price of one if they are copies - not everywhere but from certain places. The dozen I bought in one go were such copies and I was pleased with those listened to so far.

Last night knowing there would unlikely be any live music in the penas I decided to just go to a restaurant for a nice meal. I had set my heart on an Arabian restaurant within walking distance from the hotel where cous cous was available - one of my favourite dishes. In Paris where there is a large Algerian population, Cous Cous is readily available and I always make a point of having this whenever I am in Paris. Last night's restaurant was easily walkable from the hotel, less than five minutes, and I went early enough to eat and be back before it got dark. The restaurant was very quiet though, going that early, with no one but me in there. You would think that would result in quick service but no - I had to wait more than half an hour for my Cous Cous to arrive and could see it was gradually getting dark, so although disappointed that they did not provide the salsa picante that usually accompanies a cous cous I did not ask for it in case of a further long delay. The food was good although not as good as what you get in Paris. I had intended on having an Arabian coffee with cardamon afterwards but declined when I saw how dark it was getting. It was almost dark as I left the restaurant and was back in my hotel room just before 8 pm, for an early night to make up for the recent couple of 4 am arisings. Snuggled down in bed with my CD player I enjoyed listening to Mana en vivo first and then put on the 2 CDs of Apurimac - Cusco - Water Stories which is very soothing and at some point fell asleep to the second CD.

I was woken at 5 am with a phone alarm call which I had not asked for and was just dozing off again about half an hour later when it happened again! Due to these interruptions I did not wake up properly until nearly 9 am with is unheard of late for me. I made it down to breakfast (which is very flexible between 7 and 10) and the other couple of people in there having breakfast were speaking English, the American guy just leaving, so I said to the other - an Australian guy - how nice it was to hear spoken English and we had quite a chat. He is on an 8 week tour and has taken in Ecuador, Peru and now Bolivia, but has been ill the past couple of weeks and only just recovering even after antibiotics. He has travelled by road and just got to La Paz from Puno so I was able to ask the state of the roads. According to him they are okay and he never came across any dangerous roads - he said the worst were in Ecuador. He said the road from Cusco to Puno was an excellent one and there is a first class bus service called Royale which gets you there in 5 or 6 hours. I may yet travel by road rather than train because of the time factor. By the time I get back to Cusco I will only have 2 weeks left and so much to still cram in. I arrive back in Cusco midday next Saturday 8th and will have one last fun night in Cusco. Then leaving Cusco by train at 7 am on the 9th I will not arrive in Puno until 7.30 in the evening and will have missed the first couple of days of the fiesta. I will scarcely have time for one full day in Puno before having to return losing another day in the process arriving back in Cusco late 11th or early 12th. Then I have to get to Lima and from there the bus cama to Trujillo which travels overnight arriving in Trujillo next morning. All the travelling is wasting days out of those 2 weeks not leaving me much time to see the places concerned. However all this is lining up my itinerary for my planned July/August 2004 visit - so that I know how to get to these places without the expense of flying. Next visit will be in the dry season when road travel is not such a risk.

Already lined up for my next visit is up to a week in Machu Picchu so that I can travel further towards the jungle/rain forest to Quillabamba. Staying in Aguas Calientes means one can visit the sanctuary as soon as it opens before the crowds get there and further appreciate the mysticism and power of such a sacred place. Even though I did not visit the sanctuary this time one could feel the power and mystery just being in Aguas Calientes, the village below the mountain on top of which is the sanctuary. My flying visit to Puno this time is to get to know how to get there and back as next visit I plan at least 5 days on Isla del Sol, in the middle of Lake Titicaca, as there are ruins at both ends of the islands, no road travel but lots of planned hikes, plus boat travel from one port to another - hostels on wide sandy beaches - camping also available on some secluded beaches. No way can one see everything here in a one day flying tour - meeting the people who live on the island (there are 5000 of them) will be part of the charm of the visit. Also planned for 2004 is to see a bit more of Bolivia - arriving La Paz for a couple of days and then travelling by bus to the Sorata valley and spending at least 4 or 5 days in Sorata itself. I need to spend the next 18 months losing weight and trying to get fit as alot of hiking will be involved. Sorata is the base from which mountaineers climb really high mountains - although I don't anticipate going that far!!!!

This morning after spending half an hour listening to CDs in Eddy's shop on Calle Illampu I was on my way to the other one on steep Calle Sagranaga but first looking for this internet cafe, walking slowly so as not to miss it (and risk the steep climb back up). Although internet cafes are frequent, some lose what you have written for no apparent reason and this one is okay, hence the search for it. In the process of looking I had an amazing stroke of luck.

Suddenly I spotted a sign 'Clark Orosco - Charangos y Quenas a Vende - and I walked into an alleyway of little shops, saw a set of steps at the end with an arrow pointing upwards - climbed the stairs and found my way into Clarcken's workshop where he was at work on a charango! I introduced myself and told him I had his 1992 recording and said I was looking for more of his music and he looked really pleased. The only cd he has participated in since 1992 is the Wara - Oruro one which I already have, but he said he had something else that would be of interest to me and if I did not mind waiting in the workshop he would go and get it. When he came back he produced a CD which might never go on sale because 14 artists perform on it and to coordinate everything with all 14 artistes is proving a very long winded affair. This cd is El charango en La Paz - 14 Expresiones Diferentes - Filial La Paz 1999-2001 and is produced by Sociedad Boliviana del Charango. Each of the 14 songs is by a different artist. What a fantastic stroke of luck eh! To be given something which no one else has apart from the 14 charango players performing on the CD. I felt really honoured.

Clarcken himself is really nice and he gave me his business card with his email address and web pages and invited me to pop back and see him, perhaps tomorrow. I told him I too had an email address and paginas and he asked for the details and said he would take a look at the paginas. I told him especially to look at my Andean music collection on those pages. Then I asked if I could take his photo and I took two of him in the workshop and one out on the veranda outside the shop and he asked if I would send him a copy by email and I said yes. He then went on to suggest we maintain contact by email and I delightedly agreed.

I asked him if he knew of any charango players performing in the penas this week and he said Ernesto Cavour is playing in Pena Marka Tambo on Friday; this pena is very near his instrument museum. I am definitely going to go there on Friday and hopefully meet Ernesto Cavour, who is Jacco's mentor and I am sure that if I mention Jacco he might have a chat. I will try and get a photo taken with him too. You can imagine how thrilled I am - if nothing much of interest happens the rest of this week I have that concert on Friday to look forward to. What a wonderful end to my week here before going back to Cusco.

Jacco wrote again with a load of suggestions on what to do here and who to see. After leaving here I am going to try and find an artist gallery to meet someone who will ensure I make contact with Juan Carlos. I still haven't had any joy with the two numbers I have got but Jacco gave me other numbers where I might track him down. I managed to at least leave a message in Jorge Laura's phone this morning.

Adrian's nephew Miguel wrote and suggested a couple of good restaurants to go to and explained how to find them. If there is no music on at Pena Huari tonight - highly possible on a Monday - I will try to find one of these for dinner tonight. First priority is to find a bank where I can change more travellers cheques as the 100 dollars changed at the airport on Saturday have nearly gone. Life is cheap here but it is amazing how fast the money goes! For the people who live here life is difficult. There is no old age pension for old people and if they do not have children to support them there is no other choice but to beg to survive. Consequently whenever I come across anyone old I have to give something because it is beyond all our imaginations to be in such destitute circumstances.

Possibly My Last Message From La Paz.

I am writing again this morning, even though I only wrote yesterday, because after this morning I am not sure when I will have another opportunity to write, as how I spend my last couple of days here is all in the hands of various friends.

Yesterday proved the best day since arriving here - especially the evening which was magical beyond belief.

My first port of call was to the gallery to see Johnny again and we both had so much to talk about that I was there for well over an hour - talking about art and music, about Jacco, the days of Pena Naira etc etc. Johnny is such a nice and interesting man and I am really glad I got to know him. Through him I discovered that Clarcken Orosco is also a good friend of Jacco's which I did not know previously. I am calling in there again this morning because Johnny told me to look out for and if possibly catch the show of a new young band on the scene called Los Kachas. He said that on his way home that night he would pass a place where posters advertise bands playing and if they have a concert for tonight he was going to write down the details to give me when I call in today. Last night whilst writing a list of CDs bought here I was surprised to find a CD amongst them by Los Kachas which I had bought. Quite a coincidence isn't it given the vast amount of music by countless bands available here. I haven't played it yet though.

I spoke to Ruben again and he said he would come to my hotel to collect me about 6.30. I was so thrilled that he had agreed to take me to the Bonanza concert. At that time of speaking to him I was still under the impression the concert was at El Alto and both of us were going to try and find out more. I did not return to my hotel until 5 pm, enjoying just walking about and observing life here. I went down to San Francisco and joined the throng relaxing in this plaza, feeling peckish by this time and bought a saltena from a street seller. (Food on the street is incredibly cheap and often really delicious). I was asking a policewoman where the mini bus stops were for El Alto and she said she had heard Bonanza were doing a concert that night but she thought it was at the Municipal Theatre in La Paz rather than El Alto. She told me she was studying English at a school and was pleased with the opportunity to practise it. When I left her she said she was on duty into the evening there in San Francisco and if I needed help to get a taxi to the theatre she would help me which I thought was very kind.

Climbing back in the direction of my hotel I did another quick flying visit to the internet cafe as I also had calls to make and whilst in there saw Alex, the one who convinced me upon arrival at the airport to stay in Hotel Copndeza rather than Hotel Alem. I asked him that if upon my return in July 2004 I stayed at Condeza again, could I do so at the same price as paid now and he said yes. He gave me his business card with email address so that I can make a reservation in advance.

I called in at Eddy's shop on Sagranaga at 5 pm as Ana had told me she would get Eddy to call in there at that time to see me. However, Eddy phoned just after I had got there saying he had a medical appointment and could he meet me later instead. I explained I was going to the Bonanza concert and he said he would come to my hotel afterwards. We agreed on a 10-30 to 10.45 time to meet. Whilst in the shop I decided to buy the 7 CDs already picked out and did so by visa, although my passport number was needed and I did not have it with me. I said to Ana that I still had time to whizz back up to the hotel and come back down with it before meeting Ruben, deeming it more convenient to do the purchase then in order to get the CDs back to my hotel room, rather than leaving it until the next day and lugging them around all day. (One does not walk up Calle Sagranaga any more often than necessary!). Colin, if you could have seen me whizz up that hill to get my passport number, whizz back down to complete the purchase and then whizz back up again to get back to the hotel, you would have been quite impressed. I have definitely got fitter climbing all these hills and intend to keep it up once back home.

Back at the hotel, to be sure we went to the right theatre for the Bonanza concert, I decided to ask at reception where the concert was taking place that night. The guy picked up the phone, spoke to someone, and when off the phone confirmed it was the Municipal Theatre in La Paz. I asked him if he had spoken to one of the musicians in Bonanza and he said yes. I asked if they were nearby and he said they were staying in Hotel Condeza up on the 5th floor! Imagine my surprise! I then asked the guy to ring them back to check when the concert would start and as a result of this call one of the musicians came down to reception and greeted me with a kiss on both cheeks and confirmed the concert would start at 7.30 with tickets available from 7 pm. He confirmed the concert was at Municipal Theatre but they were also playing the following night at the theatre up in El Alto.

Ruben was a bit late arriving at my hotel so I phoned his home and spoke to his sister and she said he was already there but was having difficulty finding the hotel. I said I would wait where Calles Illampu and Juan XXIII joined and whizzed back to the hotel to tell them where I was waiting and to send Ruben up there if he arrived the other way. This is in fact what happened and about 10 minutes later I saw Ruben walking up towards me. It was great to see him and we walked back to the hotel where his girlfriend was waiting and then walked down and got a radio taxi to take us to the theatre. At the theatre we were lucky to get seats on 6 rows back from the stage, which was excellent luck seeing as by the time the concert started every seat in the house was filled.

We all enjoyed their concert so much - the atmosphere was incredible with the whole audience clapping in tune to the music, often singing along with the band. Throughout the concert a multitude of dancers appeared on the stage and the dance show was equally as brilliant as the accompanying music. Considering that neither Ruben nor his girl had heard this band before, they enjoyed the show immensely. I took about 10 photos during the performance. When it was over at 9.30 we took a minibus and then a brisk walk to a bar that Ruben knew of which was not too far from my hotel so that I could leave and get back in time for my 10.30 appointment. We had a lovely time in that bar, enjoying Centenario bottled beers (recommended by Jacco as his favourite beer) and chatted. I also looked at some lovely photos they had just got developed - several of their recent trip to Coroico. To get to Coroico you have to travel on the most dangerous road in the world - where on average one vehicle every 2 weeks disappears over the edge into the abyss! They went by car and were thrilled by the danger and not a bit afraid. Ruben said that road and the scenery was the most beautiful he had seen in his life. One of the photos showed a distant shot of that road and he has promised to get me a copy of it, probably sending it by email. When I get it I will send it by email to all of you!

At 10.30 I reluctantly told Ruben I had to go and that I could easily get a taxi outside. He is going to make contact with me today regarding possible plans for tomorrow. If the suggestion in his family of a day out to Copacabana happens tomorrow I will be going along with them too. I sure hope this happens!

I got back to the hotel just minutes before Eddy's arrival, with time to dash up to my room and brush my hair which had got a bit wet - as exiting the theatre it was raining and I did not have my jacket. I was able to grab the jacket as well and got back down to Reception just as they were coming through the door. It was fantastic to see Eddy again and with him was his best friend Juan, the one he said was at my disposal if I needed him. Poor Eddy was in a lot of pain and Juan had to help him sit down on one of the sofas in the reception area. His ribs are strapped up and he can move about with difficulty. It made me feel very honoured that he had endured the difficulties to get over to see me, especially when I learned later that he lives right the other side of the city. Meeting both of them was great as Juan was just like Eddy, courteous, very friendly, humorous and easy-going. Next minute Eddy produced a gift for me - a picture of 2 Indian women (cholitas) the picture done in 3-D fabric. I was enchanted at this kind gesture.

We then decided to go and get a drink together somewhere (the bar in the hotel being closed at this time and not a very interesting one anyway). We walked outside with Juan helping Eddy and in the street just below the hotel hailed a taxi. We were trying to find the bar where I had left Ruben but I could not remember its name or where it was, only the fact that the taxi d river had turned into Almendria Grau street and this wasn't enough info to indicate to them where the bar was. So we instead stopped at another one - La Luna Bar - and once inside were able to grab a table in the corner. I was immediately impressed with the brilliant rock music being played in the pub - Santana Supernatural CD was playing as we went in and the music just got better as the evening wore on.

We ordered a jug of pacena to share and were getting on so well and laughing so much that poor Eddy was in even more pain from laughing, but simply could not stop laughing where we were having so much fun. For me it was lovely being with two such lovely courteous and attentive guys. Eddy was very impressed with my command of Spanish as well. Next minute Santana's Jingo was playing - one of their earliest songs and my favourite Santana song of all time - and Juan asked if I wanted to dance. I said yes and we danced to that and a couple of other songs before returning to our table. Eddy stayed until we had finished the jug of beer and then said he had to get back but that I was in very good hands with Juan. By this time Juan had already agreed to come to fetch me at my hotel at 2 pm today, after he finished work, and take me to the market/feria at El Alto, and Eddy said that if he could possibly manage it he would come along too. Juan helped him outside into a taxi and then returned and we ordered anotehr jug of beer. For the next couple of hours we were up on that dance floor dancing as often as we were sitting down drinking and chatting and when I happened to mention that Bonanza were playing again in El Alto tonight he said if I wanted we could do to that concert. Unless Los Kachas are playing anywhere tonight I might well do so. Juan actually lives up in El Alto (as does Ruben's family) so I could not have a more excellent guide to accompany me there in safety. We ended up staying in the bar until 2 am, the lady running it putting on favourite songs of mine and his, including a brilliant Simple Minds song I had never previously heard - probably from their latest CD. Juan asked me if there was any song by any rock band that I would like played and I said 'Stairway to Heaven' by Led Zeppelin, thinking there was no way the bar would have it but they did. It was great to hear it again in such a lovely friendly place. When we finally left I told the lady running the bar that on my next visit in 2004 I would definitely come back there again. Then we hailed a taxi and Juan escorted me back to the hotel. Back at the hotel the door was locked but when we knocked, a porter who had been napping on one of the sofas, probably because they knew I had not returned, leapt up and opened up. I said goodnight to Juan and he said he would be back to collect me today at 2 pm. The whole evening what with the concert and then such fun with both Eddy and Juan was absolutely magic. One of the things I love so much about South America is that from one friend you meet others and during my visit here I have a whole load of addresses and will be maintaining contact with so many lovely people until my return in 2004.

There is a good chance of Eddy and Juan going to Europe later in the year - probably around November. Their destination is Bordeaux in France and they said they will try and include a visit to the UK. I sure hope they can make it as it would be great to see them and show them around in Bath etc.

This morning I had the delightful surprise of an email from the other Juan - the musician in Cusco - replying to one sent to him yesterday. I had told him I would be arriving in Puno on Saturday but just staying a couple of days and in his reply he asked which bus and what time I would arrive saying he would be there to meet me off the bus and look after me during my stay in Puno. I was so delighted and I am really looking forward to Puno now, as I will be there in time of the fiesta on the 8th and start of the main fiesta on the 9th. Now that I won't be on my own there I think I will stay an extra day and travel on to Cusco on Tuesday. I am hoping there will be time to visit the small island in Lake Titicaca where his family lives. It would be so interesting to meet a whole indigenous family and catch a glimpse of their life in such an idyllic place.

The rest of today looks like good fun and tomorrow as well if the trip to Copacabana comes off. Ruben said we would return in the evening and all of us go together to Pena Marka Tambo. He is going to see if any of the Llapaku musicians will go to Marka Tambo too. Jorge of Rumillajta phoned me at the hotel this morning suggesting we met after he finishes work this afternoon but of course I could not having already arranged to go to El Alto with Juan, but I will be phoning Jorge later to let him know where we are and hopefully will see him at some point this evening. Both he and Adrian looked after me brilliantly on my last visit and are very treasured friends.

On my way down the hill this morning I popped in to see Clarcken again to say goodbye and he told me he might visit UK later in the year and asked for my address and phone number. I sure hope he does manage to visit because it would be great to see him again. These lovely men met here are so gentlemanly, friendly, courteous and easy-going, and it is great that they are all going to maintain contact. Before I left I took another photo of Clarcken and his assistant and then his assistant took two pictures of Clarcken and me both holding charangoes out on the verandah just outside his workshop. If anyone wants to see these photos of such nice people met here, let me know and once the films are developed (I will get them put on CD as well) I can send some of them. And of course anyone living close enough can see the whole albums once developed and placed in albums in the order events took place.

The Magic of Lake Titicaca.

The latter part of my visit to La Paz and being back in Peru again has been wonderful. On Thursday Ruben got in contact to explain how to arrive at Cachaltaya in El Alto for the day excursion to Cochacabana. I asked the hotel to wake me up at 5.30 - and they didn't! It was pure luck that I woke up in time and got ready in order to leave the hotel by 7 am. They called a taxi for me and it was just my luck that the taxi driver had no idea where in El Alto he had to drop me. Luckily Ruben had given me such good directions and described where I had to get off so brilliantly that I recognised the place when we were approaching it. I was looking out for Transite 2 de Febrero and spotted the sign and knew I was in the right place.

No one was there yet - I always like to arrive earlier than the time stated, but within 10 minutes the guy came along to open up this little travel shop. He knew I was Angela and said there was time to get breakfast in a little corner shop and if the others arrived he would tell them where to find me. In the shop they were just getting everything ready so I sat down to wait and in the process fell in love with a poster - one of many - adorning the wall - and asked if it was for sale and they said 5 bolivianos and it was mine. I was delighted as it is the perfect souvenir of Bolivia.

At this moment Ruben and his family arrived. I was fortunate to be invited to share this day excursion with his family and it really was the most fantastic day out imaginable. The bus left at 8.30 am, the 6 of us sitting in 3 rows together and having fun on the way. I sat next to Gustavo, Ruben's brother, the one who plays with Llapaku who I met in Bath in November. We had loads to talk about and the journey passed quite pleasantly. Seeing the scenery outside La Paz was of interest too, only having flown into La Paz previously and not having seen the countryside. It did not take long before we reached Lake Titicaca and thereafter followed the shore line. I was stunned by the beauty of the lake and the dear little villages we went through. When we reached Taquile we all had to get off the bus and pile into a series of boats to cross to the other side of a small causeway. The buses went on separate floating rafts. By this time after a misty start the sun showed its face and it was bakingly hot.

At the other side we piled into the bus again and continued on our way until reaching Copacabana at 12 noon. On arrival we first went into the church which is also a sanctuary for Franciscan monks and then did a tour of the beautiful museum of religious artefacts. Back outside Ruben, Victoria and his sister Claudia opted to climb a steep hill and Gustavo, his Mum and I went into a Quinta bar and sat outside in the sun and enjoyed a drink whilst awaiting them. Gustavo and I opted for a special Titicaca cocktail called Blue Titicaca, a wonderful but strong drink which was extra special because it was flavoured with Muna, an Andean herb which I adore the smell of. It took the others about 45 minutes to complete their climb and when they rejoined us we all headed for the Comedor which was like an indoor market full of stalls selling food.  We all opted for Pink Titicaca trout which was absolutely wonderful, the best trout I have ever tasted. We shared beers with it and afterwards bought more to take with us and walked through the resort until we reached the shores of the lake. There we haggled for a boat and eventually agreed a price and charted a whole large motor boat just for ourselves. Leaving the shore behind I was in heaven, stretched out on a bench in the sun with a beer in my hand, sun beating down, both sky and lake a really intense blue. The others climbed up onto the roof of the boat to sunbathe but I decided not to follow - I thought I could get up okay but was worried about getting back down!

During the magic boat ride, chugging alone within sight of the shore, we stopped twice at little islands and climbed rocks to get the best view. On one of them little children were selling hand made crafts and I bought one of a mini totora boat complete with sail and little woven man. It cost about a dollar which was amazing for the amount of work that went into it. We also stopped at a trout farm, with netted fenced areas in which trout were allowed to grow. We purchased bags of food for the trout and as we threw some into the pools they were jumping and some even came out of the water. It reminded me of piranha activity like you see in films. It really was fun to watch.

Back at Copacabana again we had about an hour and a half until our bus home. We spent this looking at the artesania shops and other stalls, finally ending up in the main square where Transito 2 de Febrero office was and waited for the bus to arrive. At ten past five we realised we had probably got it wrong, asked someone and realised we were waiting in the wrong place and had to run to where the bus was waiting - when we entered the bus it was practically full but the seats in the aisles drop down and luckily there was somewhere for all of us to sit.

It was still incredibly hot weather and it was an uphill steep climb out of Copacabana, following the road which wound between hills and mountains - with stupendous views. Less than half an hour out of Copacabana, just as everyone was dozing off to sleep, the bus was chugging up a very steep hill and suddenly was at a standstill and would go no further. The engine stalled and no amount of tries would get it started again! Everyone had to get out of the bus and the men tried pushing it but on such a steep slope they could not get up any speed to get it started. I said to Ruben why not turn the bus round (we were by a big layby at the time and there was room to do so) but no one wanted to know that idea then. The men tried pushing the bus to a more level position but it was just too much for them, the weight of the bus even without people in it and several men heaving with all their might. Every 10 minutes or so the driver tried to start the bus, all to no avail. Eventually someone else - a man this time! - suggested turning the bus round and they did so, and a few moments pushing got it started again. What a relief as none of us fancied the long walk back to La Paz! By the time the bus turned back round and drove ahead to a level position, we were all hurrying upwards and everyone was gasping for breath by the time we reached the bus and climbed back in again! After that we had a trouble free journey back, arriving back in El Alto about 9.30. All day I had enjoyed myself immensely with Ruben and his lovely family. His Mum was adorable and I felt really privileged to be part of such a close knit and loving family. When we arrived back in El Alto, his Mum produced a shawl from her bag which I put on because once the sun set it was cold. We all got off before arriving at the Transit office and hurriedly walked down a couple of streets to their home. Once indoors they put the kettle on and in no time we were all sitting at the table enjoying snacks and hot drinks, me opting for mate de coca - a delicious tea drink made purely from coca leaves which I have got very partial to during my visit in South America.

We had already agreed to go out in the evening, me having told them that Grupo Amaru were playing that night at Pena Pub Isla del Sol. Having seen the Pena Marka Tambo advert in the paper we realised that Ernesto Cavour was not playing that night after all so all of us decided to go to Pena Pub Isla del Sol instead. We all took turns to freshen up in the bathroom and Ruben's Mum lent me another shawl and by 10.30 we were looking for a taxi to take us down to La Paz.

That was the first time I had seen the whole of La Paz by night and it was a fantastic spectacle. El Alto is 500 metres higher up than La Paz, and we slowly descended, circling down and down and the views were stupendous. Finally we reached Pena Pub Isla del Sol and were inside and seated at a table by around 11 pm, looking forward to a great evening with 3 bands - Wiphala, Nostalgia and Amaru. We ordered a jug of that delicious passion fruit brandy cocktail and beers and in no time the first band Wiphala were on the stage. I had seen this band at Pena Paraiso on the Monday and it was great to see them again. By the second song people were up and dancing and they sure know how to dance in Peru - with real gusto and energy - waving handkerchiefs in the air etc. It was lovely to watch but in no time I was whisked onto the floor and doing my best to copy what the others were doing. It was heaven, dancing to such brilliant music. I danced with both Ruben and Gustavo, plus with some friends of theirs.

Then the magic moment arrived - Amaru on the stage and their show was absolutely magic. They played for about an hour and when that was over I thought that was it, that I had seen the best part. Victoria and I went to the loo and whilst waiting in there some girls got chatting to us and one of them said would we like to meet the band! We both said yes and they led us to their dressing room and opened the door and we went in and were made so wonderfully welcome. They produced drinks and shared them with us and it was lovely talking to them. I had a photo with them too!

We all ended up staying with them chatting whilst the third band played and Gustavo and Ruben found us in there later and enjoyed chatting to them too. In the course of conversation I discovered the band were staying at the same hotel as me (just like Bonanza - did I tell you that I met them too?) so when I realised they were going to play again as a finale to the evening, I decided to stay even when the others decided to make a move back. The guy I was chatting to then - Hugo - said he would see me safely back to my hotel and that while they were playing their friend Leo would look after me.

Which he sure did. He had me up dancing the whole time they were playing and I don't know where i got the energy! Seeing such a brilliant band after such a magic day out was absolutely brilliant. Their show finished at 4 am and after another drink whilst their gear was packed up, I went with Hugo and one of the others back to the hotel. They were going to have a few more drinks in their room and some of the other girls had come back too in other taxis. I said I had my packing to do and would join them once everything was done.

By the time I had packed my case and had a shower etc and got ready for the next day it was quarter to six, with me having to leave the hotel at 7. I could hear them all laughing in their room and knocked on the door and went and joined them. At this unearthly hour it wasn't worth going to sleep, especially as the hotel had let me down on the alarm call the day before. So I had another couple of drinks and enjoyed chatting to other members of the band as well as Hugo. What lovely people they all are, perfectly respectful and they seemed enchanted to know someone from as far away as England. One of them - Pepe - fell in love with my English accent and in the course of conversation we both realised that we were fans of Uriah Heep, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd and others and he was quite overcome by that fact especially when I said I had seen Led Zeppelin twice. Several of them wanted my email address to keep in touch and I felt really delighted that they wanted to continue contact. One of them said that as soon as their forthcoming CD is out - in a month or so - a copy will be sent to me.

When 7 o clock came I was quite loathe to say goodbye having enjoyed the company of them all so much. Every one of them, the other girls included gave me a lovely hug to say goodbye and Pepe offered to help me carry my bags and help me into a taxi. I was glad about this as the road outside was fairly quiet at this early hour - until we got up to Calle Illampu which always seem busy except late at night. In no time at all Pepe hailed me a taxi and saw me into it and I was on my way for the next stage of my travel here.

At the bus station I found the right office - Transito Internacional Litoral and got my ticket which had been reserved via the Mirador agency. I was one of the first on the bus and ready to relax and sleep the journey away, but alas by this time I was so overtired that I could not get to sleep no matter how I tried. I had my walkman and was listening to some of the new CDs and thus stayed awake until we reached the frontier which was quite a tedious procedure. We all had to get off the bus and go through Bolivian passport checks etc and then walk about 100 yards into Peru and there go through another series of immigration checks. By this time the weather was baking hot and I was cooking in all the clothes that would not fit into my suitcase! After leaving La Paz we were all served with breakfast and on this last stage of the journey we were served a light lunch. Once into Peru the view from the bus window was always of Lake Titicaca and I was as enchanted with it as I was the day before. I finally dozed off for a short while and woke up again within half an hour of Puno. Finally the bus arrived at Puno terminal and much to my relief Juan was there awaiting me - the musician met in Cusco who comes from Puno - well an island in the middle of Lake Titicaca called Amanatani.

The first priority was to find me a place to stay and this was not easy. We found a taxi who recommended this place and that but at all of them they were full up. Finally on the 8th try we found a hotel called Tumi which was not too expensive and I booked in there for 3 nights with the option to stay a 4th night if I wished. After dumping my things in my room we went straight out and stayed out the rest of the day. Juan warned me it would get cold later so I popped my jacket into a rucksack and he carried it all day for me.

We first of all went to a local bar and arrived in the middle of a fiesta in there, people dancing and everyone including us were served a bowl of chicken soup. It was great fun and afterwards we popped into a taxi intending to visit Juan's aunt but when we got there we discovered from neighbourhood children that they were out tending their crops. So we went to a quinta overlooking the lake and spent a pleasant hour in the garden there sharing a couple of large cusquena beers. They tried to endure sitting in the hot sunshine to keep me company but after a while I realised they were suffering politely for my sake and insisted on moving the table so that they were under a tree in the shade with my side of the table still in full sunlight!

From there we took another taxi to the cemetery. Juan wanted to visit his mother's grave and I felt really honoured that he wanted me along too. His Mum died 10 months ago and he misses her terribly. At the cemetery he bought flowers and some dear little children accompanied us down to the grave, carrying water, beers and other things. The cemetery was in two parts, with the graves of poorer people on the outskirts and in a really peaceful and lovely place. At the grave we all sat around it and Juan produced a little key and opened a window in which was placed little treasures from Juan and his sister. They did a little ceremony with beer and candles and Juan almost broke his heart crying which was so sad that both Alfredo and I could not help crying too. All the while the children were joining in and very solemnly offering comfort to Juan as both Alfredo and I also tried to do. We stayed about an hour there and finally after a lot of tears Juan said that although he felt so sad he was at the same time happy that I had been there, and I said I felt honoured that he had wanted me there.

Later Alfredo said that such a thing was unheard of - that normally they never show their emotion to outsiders of their race, which made me feel even more privileged to be present.

From there we took a micro bus back into town and spent the evening strolling around and really enjoying the atmosphere. Many bands and dancers were doing a practice session and the whole town was packed. We enjoyed Papa Rellenas in a little cafe and met two Japanese students in there and enjoyed their company so much that we invited them to join us and went to another bar and shared 4 more cusquenas there. From there we went into an enormous Feria of artesania stalls and had a look round. I bought an alpaca sweater as well as a lovely alpaca cardigan, the prices being a fair bit cheaper than Cusco prices. The Japanese guys bought ponchos and Alfredo and Juan had fun trying out various musical instruments.

About 9 pm we all split up agreeing to meet in the entrance to the feria at 10 pm. I wanted to go back to my hotel and change so Juan escorted me there as by that time I still had not found my way about and didnt have a clue even where the hotel was! Back at the hotel I managed to change clothes, wash and freshen up all within about 10 minutes and then we were on our way back. We walked and on the way we stopped at a restaurant and went in and enjoyed a delicious bowl of soup each. By the time we got back to the feria we realised we would not be able to get across the road to the entrance. The streets were jam packed with performers and milling crowds. We waited half an hour watching the parade and then decided to go to a pena where live music was advertised. When we got there we were practically the only people in there and the band were waiting for more people to arrive before starting the show. We waited half an hour and still no sign of the band. By this time I could hardly keep my eyes open and decided to go back and have a decent night's sleep as we were meeting up again quite early in the morning. Juan escorted me back and said he would come back for me about 8 in the morning.

Sinking into that bed was heaven and I must have fallen asleep within moments and slept like a log all night. When I woke in the morning I looked at my watch and saw it was almost 7 and leapt out of bed to have a shower and get ready. I couldn't get the hang of the shower so had to make do with a very cold one but I was ready and downstairs by 8, having decided to go into the internet cafe almost next door. I had promised Juan I would wear my Nusta dress and as I walked to the internet cafe two old guys were waiting outside and congratulated me on looking so good in such a lovely dress! When I tried the door of the internet cafe they said it opened later on Sundays and explained how to get to another one nearby. I said I was waiting for friends though so would have to give the idea of writing emails a miss. I went back into the hotel and enjoyed a pot of coffee whilst awaiting them and reading a magazine in reception and finally at 8.30 both Juan and Alfredo arrived.

Walking through town both Juan and Alfredo were amused at the amount of attention I was getting in that dress, everyone staring and if I caught anyone's eye they smiled and said 'muy bonita' etc. After a while we found an excellent spot with benches lined up on the side of the road, and all we had to do was order drinks from the cafe to be able to sit down. We enjoyed a couple of hours of the parade and I took loads of photos. The music and dancing were incredible - really beautiful costumes. Finally about noon Juan suggested us meeting up with the rest of his band - Muj'Maya (which is a combination of Aymara and Quechua, an amalgamation of these two races. We caught up with some of this band in the courtyard of another bar and they invited us to share the jug of alcoholic punch they were sharing. Meanwhile they were getting the instruments ready, rubbing water into the face of the bombo drums, practising on the panpipes etc. After a while we left and all congregated in a little square nearby and little by little other members of the band arrived - they were practising playing and I was in my element being amongst them listening to their lovely music. Again the sun was really fierce. After a while some alcoholic punch arrived and we all shared it, passing the jug and glass around as is the custom here. By this time I had been invited to join in. Some dancers from Chile had agreed to dance in front of the band, with me between the dancers and the band. They had offered to let me carry their banner but when I lifted it up I knew I would be unable to manage the weight of it for any length of time. They wanted me to dance and gave me a lesson in how to do it and I decided to do my best rather than just walking.

When we all set off we went through un-crowded streets at first and I really enjoyed being part of it. After about 20 minutes or so we arrived at a bar right near the main parade and all trooped in. All us ladies were ushered upstairs - a very steep wooden staircase and the upstairs was just wooden planking suspended and walking on it felt like walking on a boat as the whole thing swayed! We sat at a couple of tables and large bottles of fizzy drinks were passed up to us and the men downstairs continued drinking their punch. After a while Alfredo came up and was a real hit with the ladies making them all laugh and suddenly a jug of punch arrived for us too and we all partook of it. All the while Juan and a couple of other band members were sitting on the stairs and chatting to us - and then we moved the tables back and were dancing - the whole floor swaying! Then we all went downstairs and the chairs were pushed back down there as well and we spent another hour or so dancing. By this time all the band one by one had approached me and bid me welcome and I felt so happy being part of their festivities. I danced with most of them one by one and after a while Juan did a little speech of welcome and other band members took it up so that I felt incredibly special to them all and overjoyed to be sharing their fiesta so wholeheartedly.

Finally as it was almost getting dark we all assembled outside and set off on the parade again - this time through much busier streets and people seemed delighted to see a foreigner amongst the dancers and musicians and I had loads of smiles and hand clapping. When we reached the main parade we had to wait for an opening to join the procession and whilst waiting it was spotting with rain and just as we joined the procession the heavens opened and it poured down. Juan came running with my rain poncho but I said I was okay. At that time I wasn't feeling cold although did after a while but was so enjoying being part of their parade that I did not care even when my hair and clothes were ringing wet. In the earlier parade through the streets I had got the hang of the dancing except for the swirling circles and did my best to keep in rhythm with the music. In addition to torrential rain and the streets running up to 6 inches of water, there was thunder and lightning as well but I enjoyed myself immensely despite that. People were amazed to see a foreigner in their parade and the clapping continued with big beaming smiles from everyone, young and old alike, and I certainly felt happy to be so much a part of it. By the time we got back to the bar we had been in yesterday we were all soaked through to the skin but hot wine was produced which was certainly most welcome. At this point i decided to say my goodnights as we are all meeting again early in the morning. Juan put me into a taxi and told the driver where to go and when I got back to the hotel and saw the internet cafe open I decided to come in and write the latest screed before I forget what happened! As you can see I am having the most magical time in Puno and looking forward to more of the same fun tomorrow. The good thing is that when I travel onto to Cusco Juan will travel with me for accompaniment as he has to get back to his band in Cusco. We will probably go to Cusco on Tuesday but maybe on Wednesday. I want to visit the island Amantani but unfortunately it is a 7 hour motor boat ride and time does not exactly permit it. I may have to save this pleasure for my visit in 2004. I will be meeting most of Juan's family tomorrow as they are arriving for tomorrow's festivities. I am certainly looking forward to more fun with the band tomorrow as they will be participating again. I doubt if my Nusta dress will be dry enough to wear so will have to wear ordinary clothes - maybe the t-shirt bought today as a souvenir of Calendaria. I am certainly lucky that I met Juan in Cusco and through him met all his friends here all of whom have welcomed me into their midst so beautifully. I have been adopted as the Madrina of the band and feel really chuffed by this. Several of them want to keep in touch when I leave.

Continuing Magic of Puno.

As I woke up early today and still have an hour or so until Juan arrives to fetch me I am taking the opportunity of a quick internet cafe visit. When I left the internet cafe Sunday night it was almost midnight and luckily the girl in charge came downstairs with me and waited in the doorway to make sure I could get into the hotel okay. I was sure glad of that fact as I may have panicked a bit otherwise. The hotel was locked up tight, the street deserted and a dog on the other side of the road was growling! After hammering on the door a few minutes though someone appeared and opened up for me - phew! Once inside I felt really cold having sat so long in wet clothes. Once in bed even with all the blankets I could not get warm and eventually had to get up and put a cardigan on and eventually fell asleep. I am lucky not to have caught a cold or worse after getting so wet that night but luckily have since felt no ill effects.

I hung the dress on a TV rack and by morning it was almost dry - and I managed to finish off the drying process with my hairdryer! I was delighted that it was possible to wear it again. Again I woke up long before Juan was due to arrive so decided to find my way to the market where we had enjoyed that delicious soup the previous day. I found it okay and enjoyed the soup as much as the day before - Caldo de Pollo - the soups here are amazing and I never get tired of them. Back at the hotel afterwards I did not have long to wait before Juan arrived and we walked to the bar where the other members of the band were getting the instruments out. On the way we enjoyed saltenas - I am really going to miss these when I leave here. They are a spicy chickene and vegetable pastie and absolutely scruptious. If the recipe is in my Peruvian cookbook at home I will definitely have a go at making them!

On arrival at the bar all the band members greeted me with a hug and one young lad gave me his Huy'Maya hat as a souvenir to remember them all by. I was really delighted with this. All these guys are very poor but have the kindest hearts and all of them are incredibly respectful, real gentlemen. Throughout yesterday as I got to know each of them more I felt more and more fortunate that through Juan I had met all of them. Some could speak a little English and enjoyed trying it out although due to their accents sometimes I had to get them to repeat it in Spanish in order to understand!!!

We took the instruments to the little nearby square as we did the day before and whilst sitting on a bench chatting to two of them, one of them suddenly said I think someone over there knows you. When I looked I nearly fell off the bench with surprise. It was Alex, the guy at the airport who recommended Condeza hotel and who was always friendly and stopping to chat whenever I saw him in the hotel. Both of us were dumbfounded with amazement to see each other again so far from La Paz! This is the second time this happened and makes you realise what a small world it is at times. On the luxury train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Caliente I was sitting next to a French guy called Paco who was also a very keen photographer. When we said our goodbyes at Aguas Calientes, he said he would look out for me in Machu Picchu and take a black and white photo of me and send it on afterwards. Of course I never got to Machu Picchu so this did not happen. But whilst in La Paz one day, I was at the bottom of Sagranaga street buying something from one of the street sellers when I heard my name called and it was Paco - both of us so amazed to see each other again so far from Aguas Calientes! We could only chat for a few moments though because he was rushing to get to the bus terminal for his onward travel to Argentina but he said we would definitely keep in touch by email, especially once he returned to France.

Once as many band members as possible had assembled in the square we decided to set off playing like the day before. This time one of them gave me a set of panpipes and indicated which tubes were most used, and although I was probably out of tune hopefully it was unnoticeable amongst all the others. As before the dancers preceded us with me amongst the band as one of them. The look of amazement on people's faces to see a foreigner amongst them was so comical that after a while I did not dare look up - trying not to grin and play panpipes at the same time is difficult, believe me!

We walked through many streets in this way, our objective being to arrive at a really big cemetery where previous musicians of Muy'Maya were buried. Here in Peru they believe in sharing their fiesta with the dead and I really like this idea. At the cemetery it was packed with people, almost like a giant picnic, vendors selling beers, soft drinks, snacks etc. We played all the way into the cemetery until we reached the grave of a former Muy'Maya musician and there we stayed for most of the day. It was an incredibly hot day again and some of the musicians stretched out on the grass in the sun, others among us sitting on the edge of some monuments etc. At times we played and at others were just relaxed and chatting and having a drink. A lady arrived with two huge bags and distributed delicious rolls filled with meat and a salad salsa of finely chopped tomato, red onion and coriander - there was enough for everyone to have 2 each and she produced a dozen 2.5 litre bottles of fizzy drinks to go with them. One of the others went off and bought some bottles of Pisco to spike the drinks and we passed the glass around as usual. We were not the only band playing either. There was a huge brass band with at least 50 members nearby and to hear them playing in honour of their dead was so moving. The whole cemetery was like a giant picnic and there were women dancing too. I got quite badly sunburned yesterday - my cheeks and nose are like Rudolf the Red Nosed reindeer and the back of my neck so sore I can hardly bear straps against it! Being so high up and with the proximity of the lake, the ultra violet rays are pretty intense here and unfortunately in the rush to catch that plane I forgot the suntan lotion.

Last Goodbye From Cusco.

It is Saturday afternoon and finally I have an opportunity to write again. Gabriel's daughter Gaby and I have walked to a local internet cafe for a couple of hours. You would not believe how hot it is here in Trujillo - must be way above 30 degrees Centigrade - in the mornings it is so hot that it is an effort to stay awake!

My last email although sent Friday was written last Tuesday morning and I will try to remember everything that happened since. When I returned to my hotel that morning it was to find a very worried Juan wondering where I had got to! I told the hotel that I would probably be staying one last night and that I had to change travellers cheques and would settle up later (having paid up front for just 3 nights when I arrived on Saturday).

The band were not meeting that day and I felt quite sorry about that because I would like to have said goodbye to many of them. I had assumed we would all be meeting up as on the other days. We went to Augustin and Rita's house first, where a few of the guys were relaxing in the garden having a drink. Rita asked me if I would like to try on the outfit she was wearing to dance in front of the band and I said yes. Although it was quite a tight fit I managed to get it on and she sewed up the front so that I would not burst out of it. Alfredo got busy with the camera and took photos including some with a nearby family and children, the women sitting on their front steps doing the washing by hand - a typical rural Peruvian scene. With them that day was a musician from Switzerland - Rene - who had been staying with them that day and it was fun to meet him too. When he heard I was going to Lima he told me about a big outdoor concert taking place on Valentines day and offered to escort me there if I wished. I declined saying I had to get to Trujillo but when I heard more about it from others later and learned that both William Luna and Anthologia were starring amongst others in the concert, I almost wished I had decided to go!!! Only the fact that I wanted to spend my last week in Trujillo stopped me from going. It would have meant losing 2 days of my Trujillo trip had I gone because the concert was starting in the evening of the 14th and continuing until 4 am on the 15th!

During the course of conversation when everyone was trying to convince me to stay one more day and Juan was saying that we were thinking of getting a night bus to Cusco so that I could save the cost of a night in the hotel, both Rita and Augustin said to cancel the hotel and come and stay in their home and Rita offered to accompany me to the hotel to collect my things and bring them back to her house. We had all planned to have lunch in a cafe in town so went there first and then leaving the men to have a beer, Rita and I went to the hotel to collect my things. Unfortunately by this time it was almost 2 pm and the hotel still wanted to be paid for the night as I had exceeded the vacation of room time of midday! In the end after some haggling I got away with just paying half. We whizzed back to the house with my things and I changed out of her dance outfit which was pretty hot with long sleeves and quite thick material, and then whizzed back to the cafe where we enjoyed cold drinks for a while and ordered a couple of large plates of a spicy chicken dish which we all dipped into for our lunch. I definitely intend to buy one of these outfits on my next trip to Puno.

We spent part of the afternoon at another band member's house and persuaded a couple of others to join us - listening to music and having a few more drinks. We ended up that day in Terry's bar to say goodbye (the bar with the suspended wooden floor) and as soon as we arrived he put on my favourite Savia Andina CD and I danced with a few of them. The band were again trying to persuade me to stay one more day but I said I had to go, as time was running out and I had to get to Trujillo via Cusco and Lima, but that I would definitely return in July 2004. The plan is for me to get there if possible in time for Inti Raymi - for me to accompany the whole Huy'Maja band to Cusco for Inti Raymi, which would sure be a fantastic experience. Considering I was only in Puno 4 days it is incredible how close I got to those lovely musicians - who varied in age from very young to quite old and all unfailingly welcomed me so beautifully. In fact they have made me an official member of the band which is a great thought. I have 18 months before my return to learn to play the panpipes properly and fully intend to do so. Next time I will play with gusto!

Back at the house in the evening we watched a video of the Huj'Maya band performing in some cultural event and afterwards Alfredo produced some ancient instruments, and Juan and Alfredo played some beautiful music on these ancient instruments, Juan kneeling on the floor with 2 candles lit and I really adored the music which was hypnotic and ethereal. Unfortunately it is doubtful that any of it has been recorded. My friends such as Stasha would have really adored that music.

Finally around midnight we decided we had better get some sleep as Juan and I had to be up early next morning as our bus was leaving from the main terminal at 7.30 am. I was worried about waking up in time but need not have worried. You don't need alarm clocks in Peru with all those cocks crowing in the neighbourhood. I was up and ready by 6 am, with Rita up and making sure I was awake before I showed my face. Getting Juan up wasn't so easy as he kept saying 'just another 5 minutes!' but eventually he was up and we said our goodbyes. Augustin and Rita had given me a Puno hat with feathers as a reminder of them and wrote lovely words on the inside.

We got a taxi to the terminal and were there by 6.30, thus having time for a nice breakfast and time to stow our things for the journey. Finally we were allowed to board the bus and it left pretty well on time. I was really glad of Juan's company with an 8 hour journey ahead. He slept for the first 2 or 3 hours and I listened to music and dozed off and on as well and then later we just chatted and took turns with the music. There was plenty to eat and drink with street sellers getting on the bus at intervals and selling their wares. We enjoyed delicious roast lamb and potatoes from one of them, ice cold drinks, pots of jelly etc to help while away the long journey. Finally just before 4 pm we pulled into the Cusco bus terminal and I immediately enquired at the Cruz del Sur office there about onward bus trips to both Lima and Trujillo.

I soon discarded the idea of going to Lima by bus as it was a 22-hour journey! No way was I going to waste so much time on a bus; 8 hours was bad enough! The guy in the office was really helpful, gave me an address of an agency where I could get my flight and address of Cruz del Sur's main office in Cusco where I could pay for my flight by credit card. Juan then put me into a taxi and we agreed to meet up again in Patiti's around 7.30.

Back at the house no one was home but I was able to let myself in with the key they had given me. I whizzed round and packed up all my stuff ready for the morning and then got a taxi first to the agency where I bought my flight to Lima - I had to be at the airport by 5.30 am for a 7.15 departure the next morning. I then took another taxi to Cruz del sur and bought my trip from Lima to Trujillo which was leaving Lima at 12.30 the same day. Then another taxi almost home, hopping out at my favourite local internet cafe where I limited myself to half an hour - sending one email to Gabriel notifying him of my arrival on Thursday and then one to Hugo and Elva to ask if Erika could meet me off the plane in Lima. I could not phone either of these two because I had no idea where their phone numbers were and could only trust to luck and hope they would see the messages in time.

Back home I had time for a shower and change of clothes and still no one was home so I left a note saying I would be back around 10 pm and explaining that I had to leave at 5.30 am next day. At Patiti's I asked Juan if he could accompany me quickly to see Gorky and Lydia and when we got to the artesania arcade where their shop is I was devasted to find it had already closed for the day - ditto the nearby shop where I had ordered sandals and a woven belt to be made. The other stall holders were saying that both sandals and belt were ready but no one knew where they lived. In the end I had to leave it with Juan to go there the next day and collect the items and then post them to the address in Trujillo - which at that point I did not know but said I would send an email next morning with the address.

Back at Patiti's the other band members had started to play and Juan had to change quickly and join them and I chose a table with a good view and told the waiters that I would be dining there. I was given a free Pisco sour whilst choosing what to have - and chose an Alpaca steak knowing it would be my last chance whilst in Peru. Then when the waiters realised it was my last night in Cusco they produced another free Pisco sour twice the size of the first one! For once the restaurant was full of diners and because of it the band played twice as long as usual and I really enjoyed this last chance to listen to real Andean music. Although I was tempted to spend my last night in Cusco at a club I realised that with an early start the next day it was more sensible to get an early night. Especially as I had not seen the family yet upon returning from Puno.

After playing each of the band members came over one by one to say goodbye and I asked Juan if he would accompany me back to the house in a taxi before saying goodbye to him too. Saying goodnight back at the house he said he would come to the airport at 6 am to see me off. Once indoors I had a nice long chat with Naomi who said that Alfredo was still very poorly in hospital and I felt sorry that there was no time to visit him before leaving. I couldn't say goodbye to Danilo either as he was already asleep with school next day. Aquiles had not yet returned from Puno (in the throngs there we had not caught up with each other - and when I phoned Naomi from Puno to see how Alfredo was she said that Aquiles had not taken his mobile phone with him so there was no way we could find each other there.)

Next morning I was awake in good time, having leapt out of bed a couple of times in the night to check the time - but again, you don't need alarm clocks here as the crowing cocks each morning are sufficient to get you up! Whilst getting ready Naomi appeared and I said I would write letters to both Alfredo and Aquiles from Trujillo. It was a drizzly day and when it came time to leave Naomi put on her dressing gown and under an umbrella came with me to the street where I could hail a taxi and a few profuse hugs later I was installed in the taxi and waving from the window and on my way to the airport.

Once at the airport I checked in without problem and had time for some breakfast before going through to departures. I ordered soup in one cafe and it was so disgusting it was uneatable! Then at another I was just enjoying a large cappuccino when I felt a tap on the shoulder and there was Juan who had arrived to say goodbye. I had found Elva's phone number before sleeping the night before so decided to phone from the airport - but when I tried I kept getting a message that the line was cut. I realised then to my horror that I would most likely be arriving in Lima with no one to meet me - a pretty daunting thought but I decided not to let it worry me.

At 6.45 I said goodbye to Juan and went through to departures and from there it was not long until we could board the plane. Sitting in my seat - by the window as always - I felt really sad looking out and knowing that in a few minutes I would be leaving Cusco behind. I love Cusco so much I could happily live there if only it was possible to find work. All the people met there were wonderful and I had no bad experiences with anyone at all. I think in the musicians community it would be difficult to go adrift - they are all so friendly and laid back - and meeting Juan was the luckiest of all. Although so young - 26 - he was mature beyond his years and took it upon himself to ensure my safety at all times. Without him to take care of me in Puno it would have been too risky to go on my own and through him I met the whole Huj'Maya band - all of whom are now excellent friends as well. Puno will definitely have to be part of future itineraries here in Peru with so many friends there to look after me.

Greetings from Trujillo.

As before with Aero Continente the flight was half an hour late taking off and I sadly looked out at my last glimpse of Cusco for the next 18 months. In no time we were flying over the Andes and then above the clouds with not much to see except occasional glimpses of the mountains far below. The flight lasted an hour and coming in to land at Lima we were flying pretty low before we could see beneath the mist and I could see we were flying over the sea and approaching land and soon enough a smooth landing. For once the transfer from plane to airport was really efficient with suitcases from our plane already on the revolving rack by the time we reached it. Mine was one of the last to arrive but there you go. Then I was walking into the airport with some taxi driver offering to take me into Lima for 15 dollars! I said no way!

I was slightly worried about getting from airport to Cruz del Sur depot, especially witnessing Naomi's concerns that morning - she insisted I get into an official 'yellow' taxi and then Juan who was also worried sick at the thought of me arriving in Lima on my own, telling me to be really vigilant with my things as people would snatch them from me if they thought they could get away with it. So you can imagine my delight when I walked through into the airport and heard my name called and there was Erika waving and next minute we were hugging each other to death! I was so relieved. The first thing we did outside was to phone Elva and both of us spoke to her - Elva too had been worried sick at the thought of me arriving in Lima on my own and I had her to thank for Erika being there to look after me. We negotiated a taxi to take us into Lima, both of us haggling to get the price as low as possible. In the event the price almost doubled because we asked him to do two detours to get some information from Prom Peru. Having previously seen a copy of the El Dorado magazine and always wondering how to subscribe to it we diverted the taxi to Prom Peru offices to enquire. At Prom Peru I stayed in the taxi with my things and Erika went in and then came back and stayed with my things whilst I went in. (The taxi offered to look after my things but it would have been folly to take him up on it - it is well known in Lima that they can take off with your things. E.g., pretending the car is breaking down and asking you to get out and push and then taking off at high speed with your belongings! Both Naomi and Juan had warned me not to fall for that one! At Prom Peru I w as given a nice magazine but they told me the bad news that the El Dorado magazine went out of print 3 years earlier! They gave me another address to go to where I could find out about other magazines. This meant asking the taxi to wait again whilst Erika went in and when we arrived back she had more magazines for me but said that to subscribe to anything I had to do so via the website. We then took the taxi to Cruz del Sur where Erika's boyfriend Edgar awaited us and we stowed my things in left luggage there and took a taxi to a nearby large supermarket where we had snacks and drinks and I had time to buy some presents to take to Trujillo. Mot having any idea how many people were living in the house I decided to buy presents for Gabriel's daughter aged 15, his wife and for an older lady, perhaps Gabriel's mother, which would at least be a start. I found some beautiful fringed sarongs in bright prints, one each for Gaby and her mother - plus one for me! - and chose a pink silky blouse as the third gift - and was able to get all three gifts beautifully gift wrapped in the shop. I also chucked in a bottle of the delicious Rose Tarifa wine produced in Ica. We then just had time to get back to Cruz del Sur, get my things onto the bus - where I had to pay an excess charge. The weight limit per person was only 20 kilos and mine was almost double at 38 kilos. The excess charge was less than it would have been by air though. Then it was more hugs all round with Erika and Edgar and I was boarding the bus for the last and final part of my Peru adventure.

Unfortunately on this occasion the lower floor of the bus was fully booked so I did not have the luxury of a seat that reclined into a bed, but despite this the seats were comfortable - and also reclineable - and I felt slightly reassured to be sharing the seat with a young German guy with his girlfriend in the seat in front - thus less likelihood of being robbed if I fell asleep. The bus pulled out of the station on time and lunch was served immediately. Unfortunately the main part of mine I had to discard when I realised it was beef though!

Once lunch dishes were taken away, people could recline the seats and relax and having fully charged up the mp3 player overnight I settled back to listen to music all the way to Trujillo and managed to doze off an on for a good part of the afternoon. When I woke up it was in the middle of the bingo session and the German guy was playing mine as well as his own. At one point it looked as though I had a good chance of winning as I was down to only 2 numbers to be called, but someone beat me to it. The prize of these bingo sessions is the refund of the ticket price.

Meanwhile all through the journey videos are played - and on Cruz del Sur it is always British or American films with subtitles and therefore a good opportunity to learn a bit more Spanish by reading the subtitles in comparison with the spoken dialogue. I watched a whole film before dozing off again.

Unfortunately I had been misinformed at the Cruz del sur office in Cusco. They said the journey time was 6 hours and when we pulled into a big bus station at 6.30 pm I thought we had arrived. Only the fact that a few people got off the bus with the rest remaining prompted me to ask someone where we were! Then to learn we had reached Chimbote with almost 2 more hours before arriving in Trujillo. Not far out of Chimbote it started getting dark and I knew there was a distinct possibility I would be arriving in Trujillo in darkness with maybe no one to meet me, if Gabriel had not checked his email that day!

So you can imagine my relief as we were pulling into the Trujillo bus station - with me one of the first on my feet - to see Gabriel waving at me and then Oswaldo waving as well. It was great to see these two lovely guys again - see the Chan Chan story on my website which tells how I met these two musicians in the first place. Leaving the bus I could tell the difference in the temperature straightaway - it felt almost tropical and balmy. After hugs we had to wait to get my luggage. Cruz del Sur are one of the most expensive bus companies in Peru but it is well worth the high cost when you have lots of things - you cannot get your luggage back without producing the ticket for it and thus know there is no risk of someone else claiming your luggage.

Then we were in a taxi and 5 minutes or so later were back at the house with Gabriel and Oswaldo carrying my things up the stairs to the first floor. Where I met his wife and daughter and his sister. They said that we would be going upstairs to a birthday party and helped me stow my things in my room and after a quick wash and tidy up we all trooped up 2 flights of stairs to the roof where about 30 or 40 members of the family were already assembled for the birthday celebration of Gabriel's 12 year old nephew. I was introduced to everyone one by one and then sat with Oswaldo and Gabriel and with various youngsters trying out bits of English learned at school on me and everyone smiling widely and doing their best to make me feel relaxed. Then drinks and the first course - chicken and delicious yellow potatoes with salad.

Oswaldo and Gabriel had already warned me that the main course was guinea pig - a delicacy here served at big celebrations - and I had already agreed to try it and see what it was like (not wishing to offend anyone by not at least giving it a try!). (Especially as Oswaldo had already agreed I could surreptitiously slide it onto his plate if I did not like it!) As it happened it did not taste too bad and I managed to eat it! After that more drinks and enormous desserts and then the music was put on and everyone danced for a bit to salsa style music until the party broke up with everyone saying goodnight and it was about 11.30 when we got back downstairs and after another drink said our goodnights.

I must have fallen asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow and slept like a log, not even hearing the cocks crowing next morning - not waking up until almost 8 am! Then after breakfast - I chose fried eggs as I was not sure I would like the mortadella sausage or black olives which is a favourite breakfast item there. This with crusty bread rolls and black coffee was ample for me. Gabriel had ordered a taxi to arrive and arranged for Oswaldo to join us and soon enough we were on our way - our first stop to the city of Chan Chan nearby. Our tickets involved 4 parts and we chose to visit the first of 9 palaces excavated and restored of the Chan Chan city. We first had a good look around the museum which culminated in everyone gathering in an upstairs gallery and looking down into a large room and with slide show to begin with and then music and lights which picked out the palaces and communities of the whole city set out in miniature below, we were given an idea of life in those times - way before the Incas - first the Chimu dynasty and then the Moche. After this we entered the first palace of the Chan Chan city knowing it would take an hour to see the whole thing. Unfortunately we forgot to buy drinks to take in with us and after a while we were all almost fainting with the heat - which reflected off the walls of the city and the parts we walked through must have exceeded forty degrees. By the time we emerged afterwards we were gasping and the ice cold drinks were more than welcome - plus I bought one or two souvenirs.

Our next part of the day was a visit to Huanchaco, a seaside resort about 10 kilometres from Trujillo - which I was enchanted with when we arrived - a beautiful palm fringed beach with the totora boats upright in the sand - available for hire! - a multitude of restaurants and lots of outdoor stalls all along the beach edge - where we all bought souvenirs - I was especially pleased with the Andean cross made of pure stone from Cusco which was a bargain at 30 soles. After we had seen all the stalls, Gabriel said we would go home for lunch and come back again in the afternoon.

Back home we enjoyed Caldo de Gallina and a duck stew with rice for lunch and then were on our way back to Huanchaco to spend the afternoon on the beach. After the heat of the morning it was sheer heaven to be sitting on that lovely sandy beach with a breeze coming off the sea. Gaby and I went into the sea - me wearing shorts topped by my long sarong - not having brought a swimming costume with me - and the sea was lovely and warm - no cold shock at all like you get at home and we stayed in for about half an hour. Although Gabriel and Oswaldo would have loved swimming too they both decided not to as they both have colds although later on Oswaldo went in for a paddle and Gaby and I joined him but he did not get more than his knees wet and we both fell about laughing when a huge wave approached and next minute Oswaldo was running away up the beach to escape it before it arrived! All of us are looking forward to having fun in the sea next week when they are over their colds - even going as far as hiring totora boats to have a ride in them. We stayed on the beach until the sun started to go down over the sea and then walked to the long pier and paid half a sol each to go on - and we walked the whole length of it enjoying the even cooler sea breeze. The pier was full of people strolling, guys selling little fishing lines for 1 sol each, with which one could catch their supper off the pier (the seas here are teeming with fish), an outdoor bar, people selling snacks etc. My biggest regret that day was my camera breaking down halfway through a film and no way of knowing why it would no longer work. I sure hope it is repairable when I get back home and that the 16 shots of a 40 shot film are retrievable - because apart from 3 photos taken in the city of Chan Chan I will have no photos of my time at Trujillo - although Gabriel carries his camera everywhere now and has promised to get an extra set done for me.

In the evening we went out to a Chinese restaurant for dinner which was the perfect end to a perfect day. After the meal we walked 4 blocks to the Plaza des Armas which was full of people and families promenading - street sellers everywhere, a band playing Marinera music in a jazzy way, people selling flowers - street entertainment etc - like one big party. The Plaza itself was really impressive with a huge statue of liberty in the middle, an enormous paved area interspersed with gardens and flowers - huge palm trees 3 or 4 storeys tall, and the beautiful cathedral on one side. There were people from the jungle selling necklaces and other jewellery and I nearly bought one with a huge sabre tooth suspended from it but changed my mind when Gabriel said it was probably associated with witchcraft! By he time we got back home it was really late and we were all exhausted from a really brilliant day - my first in this lovely city of Trujillo.

This morning after breakfast we set off at 9 am - this time being driven by one of Gabriel's brothers in law in his 32 year old ancient Volkswagen beetle - which chugged down the street and on the potholed roads was quite a bone shaker! We were meeting an official tour guide - a friend of theirs - in town and when we arrived she had not got there yet so the brother in law drove me into the centre to get my last travellers cheques changed whilst Gabriel and Oswaldo awaited the guide. This took a lot longer than envisaged though as the first couple of casas de cambio said they did not accept travellers cheques. We went to the Intercontinental bank there to find that I would be charged a whopping 12% commission which I could not afford! So we tried several other casas de cambio with the same result - in Trujillo unlike the other cities visited in Peru you cannot change travellers cheques anywhere except at the bank. Eventually we arrived at the Banco de Credito where luckily they changed them with no commission at all! What a relief. Before this I had spent a flying visit to an internet cafe and sent a panicked email to Colin asking for my pin number which in all the excitement here I have forgotten since last using it in Cusco.

By the time we got back to the others nearly an hour had gone by with Gabriel in a real state of panic and so relieved to see me back safely it wasn't true. He said that sometimes if foreigners are seen changing money they are attacked and robbed and he was worried sick thinking that something like that had happened to me and was so relieved when we got safely back. He is very protective of those around him which is very comforting.

The weather today was even hotter than yesterday and visiting the second two parts of the ancient monuments was pretty gruelling in the heat, although very fascinating as well, especially learning from the guide that beneath us in the temple were still buried the remains of the ancient Moche priests - no attempts have been made yet to excavate these graves for fear o the whole temple falling down. On arrival at the first one we were greeting by 5 of those cute Peruvian dogs and I knelt beside one of them and Gabriel managed to take a good shot of me with 3 or 4 of them.

By the time we had toured both monuments it was time for lunch and we drove out into the countryside to a place with lots of outdoor restaurants where turkey is one of the specialities - on the way to the Sol y Luna monuments and ended up at one called the Boulevard where we found a table in a cool spot - out in the open but roofed over with trellis work. All around the tables were outdoor cooking fires with all the choices on the menu being cooked in front of us. I chose a Turkey stew and we enjoyed our meals with Chicha Morenada - the non alcoholic variety which is absolutely delicious and we also had a Pilsen Trujillo beer as well - which was nice but Cusquena is still my favourite! After lunch we continued on to the monuments Sol and Luna but on arrival decided to leave climbing them for another day. We were all practically falling asleep in the heat and none of us could contemplate the steep climb up each monument. We got back to the house about 3.30 which is when Gabriel's daughter accompanied me to this internet cafe and I was able to catch up on what I have been doing. Sorry for the long delay in emails since Puno but what with 2 days spent travelling there never seemed a spare minute!

Another exciting day is planned for tomorrow - this time in the countryside outside Trujillo where Gabriel's wife has some kind of smallholding or farm. A lot of family members are going and we are all looking forward to it. It could therefore be Monday or Tuesday before I am able to write again. I also still have to book my trip back to Lima - I am hoping to travel by night on Thursday, arriving Lima on Friday morning, with my flight home to London due to leave on Friday teatime, thus allowing time for Erika and Edgar to show me a bit more of Lima before I finally leave Peru. I shall be so sad when I leave here next Friday after 6 such exciting weeks in the land of my dreams!

A Monday Morning Greeting From Trujillo.

Well this is my last Monday morning in Peru - next Monday I will be back at work and that will take some getting used to, believe me!

I am having a great time in Trujillo with Gabriel and his family and can hardly bear the thought that there are only 4 days left. This morning we went to Cruz del Sur offices and booked my return trip to Lima. I leave here at 11 pm on Thursday, arriving 6.30 in the morning at Lima, thus giving one last day in Lima with Erika and Edgar. I was lucky enough to get a seat on the first floor of the bus - which recline into beds - and will therefore hopefully sleep through most of the trip.

Yesterday was one of the best days of my whole holiday here. We hired a mini-bus and with several of Gabriel's family set off for Teresa's parents' farm in the countryside. The bus was loaded with crates of beer and other supplies and it took about an hour to get there. The contrast between the city of Trujillo and the tranquillity of this countryside plantation/farm was incredible - it was one of the most peaceful and beautiful places I have ever visited in my life and like stepping back in time. When we left the main road to approach the plantation we went down dusty sandy tracks and had to close the windows not to choke with the clouds of dust. Eventually we arrived at their farmhouse which was set on a little hillock facing the mountains and we were greeted by 3 dogs, an assortment of chickens, ducks, turkeys, a baby lamb etc. After being introduced to everyone, I was enraptured by the little lamb which was being bottle-fed by Teresa's Mum and I could not resist picking it up for a cuddle. It struggled a bit then but got used to me later. Round the side of the house was an excellent spot where we all gathered. Under the shade of a huge spreading tree, with long low branches for us to sit on, with a cool breeze passing through, we all relaxed. Chairs and some armchairs were brought out but I chose to sit on the branch, feet dangling, and we spent the most incredibly relaxing day there. I could see the sheep that had been killed for our meals that day and Teresa hacked off a few large pieces for the various dishes being prepared. The food was cooked over an open fire for which some family members were gathering wood, supplemented by corn husks. Most of the crop grown on the plantation is Maize, which is a really staple part of the diet here - the leaves being fed to the cattle etc. Various cows were tethered around the farmstead, sheep in a corral, turkeys in another corral, a flock of ducks in another. I wanted to cuddle one of the baby ducks but they weren't that small and it wasn't easy to hold onto one of them and you can guess what happened. My pristine white skirt was in no time covered in duck poo! After that I had the lamb on my lap again and this time it let me cuddle it for over half an hour, with its little head on my shoulder, quite relaxed. There was a blackbird's nest in the tree above us, singing away and it felt like being in another world. After a while I realised one of the dugs was nursing a puppy so had my turn at cuddling him too - the most adorable and placid black puppy with a white collar and blue eyes, only 3 weeks old. Beers were produced and in the usual custom the glass was passed round, each person draining the glass in one go and passing the bottle on to the next.

For the first course they had made a dish with the liver of the lamb. Although I don't like liver I enjoyed the spicy aji sauce with onion that accompanied it - dished up with boiled yucca which is also delicious. After that we were served a delicious soup with chunks of lamb in it, potatoes carrots etc.

In addition to the other animals there was also a stone structure full of doves. When I approached and looked in it was full of suspended baskets in which the doves sleep. They all took to the air when I approached with the two children, but after circling around - and I moved away from the structure so they would feel more inclined to come back, and they all returned. Out from under the shade of the tree the difference in temperature was unbelievable - bakingly hot. Dotted around were banana trees - to be avoided because there is a risk of encountering black widow spiders among the leaves! Something I did not know about before yesterday!! I went for a little walk with one member of the family and saw baby pigs and the deep well from which they get their water (30 meters deep). I deeply regretted not having a working camera but Gabriel had put a new film in his and we had to hope that the winder in it was working okay because the number did not change each time a picture was taken.

About 5 pm another meal was served - lamb in a very spicy and delicious sauce, accompanied by beans and rice and later as the sun was going down we all relaxed in front of the farmstead. Finally about 6.30 we all piled into the mini-bus and Teresa's father came with us too and we drove back to Trujillo - at the end of the one of the most perfect days imaginable.

Today at lunchtime we are going to Oswaldo's family for lunch. (Oswaldo and Gabriel being the two main members of the Chan Chan group these days). The other original founder members are Fernando and Pedro. Fernando was formerly an anthropologist in the restoration of the palace at Chan Chan and is currently doing a postgraduate degree at Exeter university.

I am hoping we will have another great day at the beach at Huanchaco before I leave. The weather here is unfailingly hot every day, which cools down with a light breeze in the evenings. As in Ilo they scarcely ever get any rain. Unlike in the mountains - I could see on the news this morning that there has been another flooding disaster in Cusco - and you probably know about the disaster of Puno where the lake overflowed, destroying homes and crops of many people living on the shores.

Well this is probably one of the last emails you will receive from Peru - until I come here again in 2004! I will try to write once more before leaving on Thursday. Upon arrival in Lima I will probably be sight seeing with Erika and Edgar - until my flight home which leaves in the afternoon - I arrive back in London at tea-time 22nd February.

PS - I forgot to tell you. You will never believe it but Mr Bean has arrived in Peru. The people here absolutely adore that programme!

A Fantastic Day at the Beach at Huanchaco.

This will probably definitely be the last email sent from Peru as I start the journey homeward tomorrow night. Apart from a short note to finalise the story from Colin's house on Sunday afternoon.

When I finished the session at the internet cafe on Monday, I suddenly realised I was practically underneath the computer table (I was so engrossed in writing that I did not notice I was getting lower and lower. Then just as I finished I had to practically do a backwards limbo dance to get up again! The plastic patio chair - not as sturdy as ours back home - the legs gradually bent outwards and Gaby and I were doing our best not to laugh at the expression on the guy's face trying to straighten the legs of the chair as we left! Yet another reason to go on that diet upon my return!!!

We got back to the house just in time for the lunch at Oswaldo's - just a short walk across the road to their home. On arrival we were made beautifully welcome and Oswaldo introduced me to everyone one by one and there were a lot of them. Probably around 25 of us sat down to lunch and it was a really delicious lunch that the ladies had spent all morning preparing. First we had Papa a la Huaincaina - a delicious potato dish covered in spicy aji sauce and this was followed by spicy marinated barbequed chicken - a la Parilla - with salad and rice - along with a large assortment of fizzy drinks and the inevitable Pilsen Trujillo beers. I felt immediately at home with Oswaldo's lovely family and enjoyed meeting them all. Finally we had a delicious fresh fruit salad and then relaxed with music which began with all the different Andean (folkloric) music they had - including one I had given Oswaldo 6 months ago which he loves so much it goes with him everywhere - Contrasts by Andean Nation - it was really fantastic hearing that lovely CD again.

Later in the afternoon Gabriel and his family returned to their house as they were expecting visitors to arrive but Oswaldo insisted I stay a bit longer. By this time they had run out of Andean music and put on huayno music instead. In no time at all the men were up dancing - and this dance is incredibly energetic! One by one the men asked me to dance and I had a hard job keeping up with the rhythm but really enjoyed myself. I ended up staying all evening, enjoying myself immensely with everyone. We shared loads of beer - I saw the men go off several times with an empty crate of 12 x 620 ml bottles and return with another one until by 10 pm we had probably got through 5 or 6 crates of it! We were all hungry by then and Oswaldo had told me about the cafe where you can get the best Caldo de Gallina in the whole of Peru and we all walked there. The men put 5 tables together in the centre of the cafe and the 14 of us that had remained at the party sat down and enjoyed the most incredibly delicious hen soup which Oswaldo treated everyone to! By the time we got back it was coming up to 11 pm and I said I must get back, but we had all already arranged to go to the beach today, Wednesday, and agreed on the time of 10 am for us all to set out. I just made it home in time too because everyone was ready for bed when I got there!

Tuesday I had already decided to go and visit Johnny's family as promised and after breakfast Gabriel phoned to check it was convenient to go then and they were all expecting me as Johnny had phoned to say I would be visiting. Gabriel and his father in law took me in a taxi to El Porvenir where they live but when we got there a huge market was in progress and the taxi could not proceed to where they live. We had to leave his father in law waiting in the taxi and Gabriel escorted me through the crowded market until we found the house, knocked on the door and Jorge's sister answered and Gabriel handed me over to them and I said I would come back by taxi later on after visiting with both them and Julio's brother and family out at Salaverry.

In the house I chatted with Jorge's sister and then her dear little son Yerson aged 8 arrived and he was so cute! He was very chatty and asked me if I would like to have a look around the market. I said yes and when we got outside he took me by the hand and led me all over the market, including the nearby covered market full of little shops. We ended up inevitably at a CD stall where I decided to buy some huayno music which is typical of this part of Peru and after listening to a few songs on several I selected four. Back at the house William arrived - who is also a musician - and Jorge's sister got busy cooking lunch. Mirtha arrived too - a 16 year old cousin of Yerson and these two kept me beautifully entertained, Yerson on one side of me and Mirtha on the other, asking me all about England etc. William then wheeled in a TV and video and set it up so that I could watch the video of the big fiesta of Andean music that his band had taken part in on 26 January - it really was a brilliant extravaganza of Andean bands accompanied by traditional dances from several other parts of Peru, including Cusco. After watching that some Andean music CDs were put on and Yerson took me out to see the animals - several chickens, roosters and ducks, as well as a giant turtle. The lunch was absolutely delicious - soup first and then chicken with savoury rice and glasses of ice cold chicha morenada to wash it down.

After lunch was cleared away we all set off in a taxi to Salaverry where other members of Johnny's family were awaiting our arrival. We got there about 4 pm and Yerson was really looking forward to going on the beach afterwards. Julio's brother's home was just across the road from a huge sandy beach. Once indoors we were made very welcome and after ice cold drinks and plates of fruit they put music on and one of the ladies gave me an Andean music CD and said it was a present from her to me which I thought was exceptionally kind. Then they wanted me to listen to various styles of music from Trujillo - huayno, marinera, banda, polca etc. Each time another cassette was produced poor Yerson's face fell about ten miles and at the end of each song he was trying to get his Mum's attention saying 'Mum, Mum, when are we going to the beach?' It was so cute and after a while we said we would go to the beach for a while and then come back. By this time it was about 6 pm but still very warm and we walked down to the sea and Yerson and I went in for a paddle. Nearby a fisherman was in his rowing boat and he asked if we would like to go for a little ride in the boat and we said yes. We all piled in but with the weight of us he found it hard to push us off the sand into the water and enlisted the help of a guy swimming nearby. Eventually after several pushes and with the help of a bigger than usual wave we were afloat and it was lovely out there on the water, five of us as passengers and the guy rowing us. By this time the sun was going down and it was so peaceful and relaxing being on the water. He rowed us all around the marina where lots of fishing boats and even bigger boats were moored. From one large boat there was lots of calls and waving and I think they wanted us to get on board but of course we did not have time to. After about half an hour on the water we returned to the shore and in between waves had to quickly climb out of the back of the boat and run to the shore in order not to get wet.

By this time the others from the house had come to see where we were and we all walked back up the beach together. Back at the house we all washed our feet in the bathroom to get rid of the sand and then sat around the dining table and enjoyed tamales and sweet buns and mugs of herbal tea. They were all lamenting the fact that my time here is so short and did not want me to leave but eventually at 7.30 I said I had to go as I felt I ought to get back to Gabriel's by 9 pm if possible and it was a long drive back to town. By this time I had exchanged email addresses with two of the ladies so that we could maintain contact until my return here in 18 months.

The taxi ride back to Trujillo was pretty scary. First of all we nearly had a collision with a petrol tanker which had stopped and pulled out ready to turn right, thus making it impossible to overtake on either side and taxi driver did not see it at first - when he did he really had to slam the brakes on to stop in time and my heart leapt with fear thinking it was curtains colliding with a petrol tanker! As if that wasn't bad enough, a few miles further on a lorry pulled out in front of us and we were going so fast it seemed that again the taxi would not stop in time but thankfully he did. On arrival in Trujillo there was a madman driving a sporty style car weaving from one lane to the other in order to prevent anyone from overtaking him - the cacaphony of horns was unbelievable! Eventually we arrived back at El Porvenir where I collected my CDs. Yerson and Mirtha did not want me to leave and insisted I come and see them again before leaving Trujillo so I promised I would visit again for part of the day tomorrow. All day they had stayed by my side, one each side of me holding my hands on the beach etc. I could easily have taken Yerson home with me he is so cute. They saw me into a taxi with all of them making a note of the number in front of the taxi driver to further ensure I was safely taken home, and eventually I got back to Gabriel's around 9 pm after another really enjoyable day. It was fantastic to meet members of Johnny's family here who are just as nice as his family in London (who I am really looking forward to seeing again when I go for the weekend to stay with them 14-16th March).

This morning Gabriel took me into town so that I could change more travellers cheques. Banco de Credito in the centre was not opening until 10 so we had to walk to a smaller branch which opened at 9.30. In the process we visited one of the covered markets and I bought a nice t-shirt. Back home I just had time to gather up my things for the day and Oswaldo arrived to collect me.

We walked over to his house where everyone was nearly ready and it was lovely to see them all again. Oswaldo said his Mum never goes to the beach but had decided to come today as I was with them. We finally set up with the mean carrying rucksacks full of things and the women carrying a huge basket between them. I thought it would be difficult to get us all into two taxis but they said, don't worry we will easily fit into one! You should have seen us - they sat me in the front next to the driver and then the other 12 plus a baby and the dog piled into the back - five of them in the seats behind the driver and 7 of them in the estate part of the boot! They looked like sardines and it was so funny. When we finally reached Huanchaco beach I said I would love a photo of them in there. They had to get out of the taxi to find the camera in one of the rucksacks and then they all piled back in again and a photo was taken!!!

We then strolled down to the sea, sitting as close to the edge as possible and relaxed for a wonderful day by the sea. In no time the men were changed and ready to go in the sea and after a while most of us joined them. Two ice-cream sellers walked by and we all decided to have an ice-cream but they did not have change for the 50 sole note - which meant one of them leaving his wares with us (for security) while he walked about a mile to get the note changed. When he eventually returned I went into the sea and joined the others for a while. With the rolling surf waves and the sun beating down it was like paradise there - the sea really warm. I carried a muu muu back and put it in the water - which is like a large beetle but a marine variety, grey in colour.

By this time we were all ready for lunch and the meal they served up was absolutely delicious. A huge saucepan of spaghetti was produced from the basket, a container full of spicy chicken pieces in aji sauce in another, plus another full of aji spiced mashed potatoes - they had even wrapped it up so well that the food was still quite warm and it was really delicious tucking in there on the beach. Afterwards Oswaldo and Claudia went off and bought bottles of Pepsi, inka cola and a load of beers and when these were gone we settled down to sunbathe for a while. When I opened my eyes a while later one of the guys was standing over me with a parasol - they were worried, bless them, in case I caught too much sun!

Then I asked Oswaldo about looking at all the artesania stalls and the arcade of artesania shops and he said he would accompany me - four of us set out and we stopped and looked at every stall all along the sea front, stopping halfway to buy a 3-litre bottle of iced pineapple drink and had two glasses each, leaving the remainder of the bottle in the cooler to pick up upon our return. During our stroll I purchased some lovely souvenirs to take home including unusual jewellery and items made of stone, eg quartz etc, and some nice blouses and a t-shirt. When we got back to the others around 2 hours later, we went into the water again. Oswaldo was hardly out of the water all day, he loves the sea so much. Everyone enjoyed the day immensely. Totty, the dear little golden brown pekinese dog just adored being cuddled and spent a good part of the afternoon on my lap - if I stood up she was up on her hind legs squealing to be picked up and cuddled, it was so cute!

Finally at 6 pm we walked up the beach and strolled along the sea front looking for a taxi which Oswaldo's brother negotiated. When we all piled in though it was to find it wasn't as roomy a car as the one we had arrived in and fitting everyone in was difficult. With seven of them in the boot Oswaldo's brother was the last to climb in and they really were like canned sardines when the driver slammed the hatch closed! And every time the car went over a bump (and there are loads of them on Peruvian roads!) they all groaned! Back at the house Oswaldo and his family insisted I come back again to share the evening meal with them and we agreed on 9 pm - as I had promised Gaby we would have a session at the internet cafe tonight.

Well tomorrow is my last day and I am going to be oh so sad when I leave here. I have really fallen in love with Huanchaco beach and adore the warm friendliness of the people here. Everywhere I have been in Peru I have been looked after brilliantly and warmly welcomed into their families and it is going to be such a wrench to leave this lovely country behind. If I thought I could earn a living here I would be seriously tempted to come here and live. A nice house near the beach at Huanchaco would probably cost only a quarter of what it would cost at home and the climate here is such that it is warm all the year round, never going below 16 degrees even in the winter. And living within walking distance of Huanchaco beach would be paradise.

Fun in Lima - My Last Day in Peru.

Erika and I managed to squeeze in half an hour at this internet cafe in a fun day together here in Lima so I can at least start my last email from Peru.

My last day yesterday was as enjoyable as all the ones before. After breakfast Gabriel and his father in law escorted me in a taxi to Johnny's family in El Porvenir. We had to make our way through the market again but this time the taxi driver took us closer. When we knocked on the door Yerson answered and flew into my arms and hugged me to death he was so pleased to see me! The others welcomed me equally as warmly and even though I had only intended staying until 1 pm I ended up staying until gone 3. Dora cooked another excellent lunch for us all and whilst she was cooking Yerson and Mirtha kept me entertained - including seeing the ducks and chickens again. Yerson went off and returned with a pile of lettuce and we had fun feeding them - you would not believe that chickens and ducks would go so mad over lettuce but they did - as he approached all the chickens rushed out of their roost and they were all pecking each other to get at the pieces of lettuce we threw. When that ran out Mirtha arrived with a bag of corn and we had fun with that too. I met another couple of members of the family as well. Whilst I was with them Johnny phoned from England and it was great to talk to him - he was really pleased that I had managed to visit his family.

I got back to Gabriel's at 3.30 and after a cool drink Gaby and I decided to get the local bus out to Huanchaco. The mini bus service in Peru - wherever I have been in Peru - is excellent - one never has to wait more than a few minutes and it is really cheap to go by bus. Soon we arrived at the beach and we decided to walk along the sea shore edge to feel the water on our feet and this was lovely - the sun beating down etc. After a while we were looking for muu muu's in the wet sand and got so engrossed looking we forgot to keep an eye on the sea and one wave bigger than the others drenched us both right through!!! I rung out the water from my skirt and petticoat and in the hot sun it did not take long to dry. When we got as far along the beach - about a kilometre or so - where the beachside artesania stalls started we walked up the beach to take a look and I fell in love with a beautiful stone on one of the stalls and when the guy described how he would turn it into a necklace I was immediately interested and he said it would take about 20 minutes. His two friends had stalls alongside and I chose another beautiful stone from the next stall for a similar necklace to also be made. Then to keep the third guy happy I chose 2 similar sized blue stones from the 3rd stall for the guy to turn into earrings for me. The first guy was a real artist in creating these necklaces for me and it was fascinating to watch him at work. He promised to do a special job for me and he did. I was so thrilled with the first one that I decided to treat the three of them to a beer as an extra thank you and one of them went off with 10 soles which was enough for 2 x 620 ml bottles and we shared them whilst Solomon - by this time we had exchanged names - completed both necklaces. He travels all over South America - including Ecuador and the jungle - looking for unusual stones and creates some real works of art with these natural materials. By this time it was getting dark so we had to leave, in order not to make Gabriel and Teresa anxious, and we got back to the house about 7.30 pm.

Teresa accompanied me over to see Oswaldo's family as I wanted to say goodbye to all of them too - when we got there I got the usual warm greeting and his brother went off to get Oswaldo - when they returned Oswaldo said that they all planned to go to Cruz del Sur to see me off and we agreed to meet there at 10.30. As I was leaving his brother cut 2 roses from the rosebush outside the door and presented them to me with a flourish and I said they I would enjoy them on the journey. We returned to the house and had our evening meal - a delicious soup followed by lomo saltado made with lamb - and a couple more members of the family arrived to say goodbye, including Teresa's brother Javier - the policeman - who had brought some unusual stone gifts for me - in his words so that I would never forget my new friends in Trujillo, which I thought was very cute. Finally at 10 pm it was time to leave and I thanked Terese profusely for looking after me so brilliantly that week and Gaby and I agreed to keep in touch. Downstairs one of Gabriel's uncles arrived, the patriarch of the family and he gave me a fantastic present - a replica of one of the ceramic vessels unearthed at the ancient Chan Chan city. I was quite overwhelmed with it and sure hope I can get it home safely without breaking it. Gabriel, Javier and his father came with me in the taxi to Cruz del Sur and when we got there a whole load of Oswaldo's family including his Mum had also come to see me off. There must have been more than a dozen of them and when it came time to board the bus, even though it wasn't leaving for another nearly 15 minutes they all waited and waved as the bus pulled out of the depot and some of them ran outside as the bus turned for a final wave farewell. I felt quite sad leaving them all behind. Then I noticed I had only a few petals left of the 2 roses - one had fallen apart completely with all the hugs before I got on the bus and then I spotted the other one on the floor and the Peruvian guy in the seat across the aisle from me kindly got out of his seat and picked it up for me. He was really friendly and we chatted quite a bit during the first part of the journey. He works for an English company in Lima and travels all over South America, something to do with mining, so was quite interesting to talk to. After being served a meal and coffee, an English film was on the video and quite interesting except that I could not keep awake all the way through and eventually fell asleep. I woke again about 5 am and although our arrival time should have been 6.30 we did not actually arrive until 7.15 - where I was delighted to find both Erika and Edgar awaiting me. Edgar took charge of reclaiming my luggage and then we took a taxi, dropping Edgar off at work on the way and Erika and I returned to her home. There I was able to enjoy a cool shower before we had breakfast - even that early in the day the sun was hot with another fantastic day of sunshine in store.

About 10 am we set off out for the day. First we went on a train ride so that I could see the only train in Lima - we then returned immediately and by this time were dying for a drink and shared a little of icy cold peach fruit juice in a cafe before taking the bus to the beach. It took about half an hour to arrive and then a long walk down to the beach called Agua Dulce which is beautiful - there was a whole panorama of coastline stretching into the far distance. We gradually descended and crossed a bridge over the road, beneath which were beautiful gardens and a large water feature. Then arriving on the beach the sand was so hot that walking across it in sandals, as the sand brushed onto your feet it was red hot! We sat at the water's edge enjoying the cool breeze for an hour or so until it was time for lunch. Then at one of the restaurants actually on the beach we had a marvellous lunch. I chose camarones which are bigger than langoustines and really delicious - served up with yukka and salad and smothered in a really spicy sauce and Erika chose Jalea, large chunks of fish deep fried in batter with finely sliced red onion rings and tomato and topped with a whole crab. Afterwards we hired 2 deckchairs and a huge parasol and had another hour and a half by the water's edge. The beach was packed with families, some with picnics, crates of beer etc but in Peru there is no need to trail a picnic to the beach. Going by continuous were ice-cream sellers, sweet sellers, cigarette sellers, others with trays loaded high with rolls, cakes, dishes of ceviche, pots of jelly, empanadas - you name it and someone is selling it. For me Peru is unique in this way and I will miss it so much. The sea was full of families jumping up and down in the gentle surf waves, guys in rowing boats hoping to earn a few soles giving people rides, others going by selling swimwear, buckets and spades, beach balls etc. Those not in the sea were in a sea of beach parasols relaxing in deckchairs and enjoying a family day out at the beach. Lima went up about 1000% in my estimation at this lovely scene.

Finally at 3.15 we took a taxi up to the top of the hill and went into an ice-cream parlour where we both enjoyed two large scoops of lucuma ice-cream - so delicious that we decided to have another 2 scoops each. I will really miss lucuma ice-cream when I leave here - I never thought I would find an ice-cream variety I would love more than pistachio flavour but lucuma succeeded in becoming my favourite.

Then we caught the bus back to San Juan, the district where Erika lives and are spending this quick visit in the local internet cafe before returning to the house to collect my things. Then we are leaving at 6, taking a taxi to the airport and picking up Edgar from work on the way so that he can help me with my luggage - which I have an absolute mountain of. I just hope they don't charge me a fortune in excess baggage like last time. My plane leaves at 9.10 pm tonight and I finally arrive at London Heathrow at 5.15 tomorrow.

Since my last email I have chatted to one or two people and discovered that to buy a house here in Peru is really cheap and I am definitely tempted to come here to live one day. From the sale of my house in England I could buy several houses here and thus have an income from renting the others to enable me to live here. This won't happen for a few years but is something nice to think about and dream about for the future - and maybe one day will become reality!

Well, this then brings me to the end of the 6 week adventure and soon I will be on my way home - there to save hard for the next adventure in 18 months time! Bye for now and best wishes from what is to me the most fantastic country on earth - PERU!

Hi From Bath.

I can hardly believe it being back here again after the 6 weeks adventure! Surprisingly the weather is not as bad as I thought it would be - today Sunday has been lovely and sunny - a promise of spring just around the corner.

The journey home seemed long! We had to fight our way through the Lima rush hour to get to the airport and it was consequently getting on for 7.30 pm by the time I checked in - there to find that I could go through to departures pretty well immediately, although I asked permission to go back outside again to make a last phone call. Erika and I phoned Hugo and Elva at Ilo for a last goodbye and to let them know I was just at the airport ready to leave.

I was lucky not to have to pay any excess baggage fees (last visit it cost me an extra 150 dollars!) - they let me off this time because I was considerably over my limit with one large case almost too heavy to lift plus a second large bag, also quite heavy. It was a relief to get rid of these as I was still pretty laden - a rucksack containing nearly 100 CDs, my two stereos strapped around my waist, handbag, coat pocket full of books, and wearing lots of extra clothes that a) would not fit into the cases and b) just in case it was really cold on arrival back home.

Being later at the airport checking in meant there were no window seats left and the only aisle seat left would not recline - I chose it anyway as I did not want to be trapped into one of the rows down the centre of the plane and having to disturb someone each time I got out of my seat. I had hoped to be tired enough to sleep after only having a couple of hours sleep on the long bus journey the night before but it wasn't easy. It was several hours before I could finally fall asleep and then I did not sleep for long. Luckily there were films to watch to pass the time and before that an excellent substantial meal was served. One thing I can say for Iberia airlines is that they really look after their passengers. Whatever anyone wants including unlimited drinks are provided completely free of charge.

When we landed in Madrid it was to grey skies and drizzly rain - a far cry from Peruvian blue skies and sunshine. The flight home to London was due to leave at five to three that afternoon but was delayed by 40 minutes. It was such a relief to relax in my seat on that plane, knowing that a couple of hours later the long journey would be over ... or so I thought! It was the first time in all the years of flying that the plane would not start! After several attempts to get the plane going the pilot finally gave up and announced that we would have to wait for another plane to be assigned to us. Everyone were on their feet getting their bags back out of the overhead storage lockers and then about 15 minutes later we all got off the plane and were taken in buses back to the airport terminal. There we had to wait until finally we were allowed through once more and taken by buses to another plane. Most people took this delay in good part - probably like me, thinking it was better to arrive safely than never to arrive at all, but one German couple were going mental at the delay, really ranting and raving - and when the plane finally landed at the airport barged past everyone trying to get their luggage from the overhead lockers, determined that even though they were near the back of the plane to be the first ones off! It was such a relief to relax finally and this time take off without a hitch. Once up above the clouds it was astonishing to see the sun shining - a completely different story to the grey skies and rain beneath the clouds. The actual landing in London was the smoothest I have ever known. I thought we were still in the air coming down to land until I realised we were actually already on the ground. Once in the terminal I was lucky in that my luggage was among the first to reach the reclaim carousel, and immediately spotted Colin as I exited into the main terminal. It was lovely to see him again and in no time we were on our way home. Halfway home we got off the motorway at Hungerford and had a nice meal in a pub in the town before continuing home on the A4. By the time I collected my car and keys from Colin's house and drove home it was just before midnight as I arrived back at the house. Back home I opened 6 weeks worth of post and was especially delighted to receive 25 CDs from my dear friend Jorge in Tierra del Fuego - with these and all the ones I bought in Peru and Bolivia I will be very happy listening in the weeks to come!

Well that really is the end of the adventure and I am back at work tomorrow. I shall be living for the next adventure in 18 months time and saving up like mad for it - in the meantime enjoying every possible opportunity to keep up my Spanish with various Peruvian friends either here or in London. My next trip to London is for the weekend, leaving straight after work on Friday 14th March, in order to see my USA friend Layla who arrives in England on the 13th for a month's holiday. I will be staying with Johnny's family those 2 nights and am really looking forward to seeing them all again. Hopefully there will be time to visit Portabello market on the Saturday as I have promised to buy London T-shirts for the whole band who played at Patiti's restaurant in Cusco. After seeing the two I bought for Angel's birthday they were all keen to have one as well!