I was up at 5 am, and once ready with a small rucksack packed for Urubamba, I set to trying to organise what to put in my suitcase and what to leave behind, preferring to get that ordeal out the way in case there wasn't much time on Saturday. There were still a few things to go in it, but most of what I was leaving behind I could easily do without for the next 6 or 12 months. By 7 am we were leaving the house, Alfredo, Danielo and the three puppies, plus me… Danielo being too worried to leave them with Canela alone so long in case she didn't look after them properly. We took a taxi to the bus company and we almost caught the bus just leaving, but when we got on there were no seats so decided to get on the next one leaving 15 minutes later instead.
Danielo sat next to me with the three puppies in a bag on his lap, which a load of school children standing in the aisles thoroughly enjoyed playing with during the journey. Danielo and I were getting off at Pisac, which is half way between Cusco and Urubamba, about 35 to 40 minutes bus ride. At this point we left the puppies with Alfredo who was carrying on to the house at Urubamba, with us to join him after Pisac.
Once off the bus, Danielo and I set off through the village, out the other side and had been walking for about two kilometres or more when I finally asked how much further it was to go. I nearly fell over with shock when he said about 11 km! I said no way would we have time to do all the things planned that day if we wasted all that time walking, so we decided to walk back and see if we could get a taxi. As luck would have it we had only walked half way back, saw a white car coming, thought it was a taxi and flagged it down. There were two young men in the car who said they would take us to the end of the road (as far as one can go by car) and quoted a reasonable price, and when Danielo said we had attempted to walk it they were amazed and so was I as the road zigzagged up the mountain side. I would have been exhausted long before we reached Pisac.
By the time we reached the top, we had arranged that the driver would come back for us two hours later and take us back for the same price. The next two hours were really gruelling ones as the path led steeply up the mountainside, much of the way very steep and uneven steps, sometimes the path less than a foot wide with a sheer drop on one side. One had to hug the mountainside in the worst places, which wasn't easy to do because of very spiny cactus growing. Danielo was brilliant, holding my hand and guiding me through the worst places. Neither of us dared look down. Danielo admitted that when he looked his legs felt like gelatina. I was wearing my Ilo hat but as it was quite windy and I was afraid of losing it, Danielo put it in his trouser pocket.
The ruins of the Inca settlement were scattered all across the mountain and for the amount we saw, we spent 98% of the time on a gruelling climb that was quite a nightmare in places. The main consolation was the fantastic view and exploring each set of ruins we came across, although I think we missed some of the best ones - one of which would have meant an extra hour and a half. We were both pretty exhausted. Within 20 minutes of the time to meet the car, I could see the path leading all the way to where it was parked and we set off down it, me quite jubilant that the end of the road was in sight, only to go round a bend and see a group of cows grazing on the slopes, one of them a bull less than 10 yards from the path!
There was no way I would take the risk of walking past it because had it approached us there was nowhere to run, just straight down the mountain - one couldn't go up because of the spiny cactus. So we had to walk all the way back and take a different route, which involved at least a 100 (but felt like a 1000) very steep, narrow, uneven and jagged steps, again with sheer drops. Both of us were absolutely exhausted when we reached the car, both men asking why we had turned back. Neither thought a bull by the path was sufficient reason for such a big and tiring detour!!!
Back down in the village of Pisac again we had time to share a litre of coca cola and some chocolate whilst awaiting the bus, which came along about 10 minutes later. We had to stand for part of the journey as it was full, but at the next stop a few got off and we were comfortable again. I enjoyed that ride through the Sacred Valley immensely, the road following the winding river on the valley floor. It’s incredibly beautiful there. At Urubamba we went straight to the house to drop off our things. (I was really lucky that Danielo had carried my rucksack on that stiff climb).
By this time it was approaching lunchtime so I suggested to Alfredo we find a place for lunch and the three of us enjoyed an excellent 3-course meal at an excellent set menu price, which I paid for as he had bought the bus tickets that morning. Afterwards he was going to the teachers’ reunion and Danielo and I caught a moto (a motorbike with a covered seat contraption on the back, a bit like a rickshaw) as far as the bus terminal (which was more like a car park!) and then the bus to Ollantaytambo. This was a 25-minute ride through the beautiful Sacred Valley, following the Urubamba river - an incredibly beautiful place. At Ollantaytambo we headed straight for the ruins and although a steep climb up very steep steps, was still really easy compared to Pisac that morning. We spent about 45 minutes exploring everything, and I recorded both Ollantaytambo and Pisac in a great series of photos, with Danielo taking quite a lot with me in the frame.
Back on the ground again we spent about an hour enjoying the village - first at the stalls in the square, many of which were run by children and I bought a few items of jewellery, at such bargain prices that it would have been an insult to haggle, as well as drinks and fruit from some other children sellers. Then we looked through all the gift shops, watching one man weaving the beautiful designs on a big loom in the corner of his shop. The people were so nice and friendly there that I felt guilty for not buying anything. I told them all I would definitely be back one day in the future and would definitely buy something then. We then walked all through the village, an incredibly beautiful place, and bought bread rolls from one shop because Danielo said I just had to try the Urubamba bread of which there are three delicious varieties.
We then caught the bus back to Urubamba and a moto straight to the market - where I made a beeline for the ducks and cuddled a few of them, this time resisting buying any!!!! We also walked through all the produce section of the market and I bought a load of dried aji amarillo to keep me going with my Peruvian cookery when I got back home. I also bought three more cassettes as the prices were so cheap - one an 18 grandes exidos by Maya Andina, the other two Sayas and Tinkus by various Andean artistes, making my total of CDs and tapes purchased in Peru and Bolivia around 60 albums. Because we were in Urubamba we missed Apu Marku who were on at Kami Kasi that night but I would not have missed that wonderful day in the Sacred Valley for anything, despite all the mountaineering that morning! When Danielo and I headed back to the house we passed the Plaza de Armas where a fantastic dance display by young children was in progress. The children were no more than 8 or 9 years old, beautifully dressed, the girls in embroidered dresses with elaborate hats, the boys in embroidered suits with knitted pointed hats, and the coordination of the dance was fantastic. We stayed and watched for about half an hour before proceeding home.
Once home, I asked Alfredo if he wanted to go for something to eat and the three of us went looking to see what was on offer at the restaurants. We finally settled on one and when we ordered the food, we could not believe the size of the plates which were piled high when they arrived. One plate would have been enough for all three of us! I really struggled with mine, only managing about a quarter of it, piling the rest on Danielo's plate who happily tucked in. Even they were struggling to finish, and then the owner brought out another plate of chicken, saying it was left over. They tried to finish it but it defeated even them. In the end they cut up the rest to take home for the puppies. It was about 10.30 by the time we got back and we were all pretty tired - especially me after that arduous climb to the ruins at Pisac that morning - so we decided to go straight to bed. I cuddled the puppies for about half an hour and finally fell asleep to my Manuelo Prado CD. Next day I woke up to great music - which upon investigation proved to be a television programme with lots of different live bands - all in celebration of Peru's day of independence, 28 July.
We all watched for a while, until we decided it was about time for breakfast so Danielo and I set off to buy fresh bread while Alfredo got the water boiling for a pot of coffee. We were looking for a certain bread that I had enjoyed in the market the day before but couldn't find it. Eventually after trying a few places we ended up actually inside a bakery - a really old-fashioned one, probably like the bakeries back home 100 or more years ago. The bread there was made from unrefined flour and we were in time for a big batch coming out of the oven, which was so delicious still warm that we ate 3 each just walking back. On one side were dishes and dishes of Lechon (roasted pork joints) and the baker offered us a free tasting, which was nice.
Back home we had breakfast, then gathered up our things, and made our way to catch the bus for Cusco. Alfredo wanted to buy fresh milk but unfortunately the shop selling it was closed. The milk there was very rich, probably like the Jersey full cream back home. Whilst waiting for the bus, Danielo suddenly remembered my hat. He had taken it out of his pocket upon our return home and I forgot to ask for it. Alfredo went back for it but couldn't find it and then Danielo went back and he couldn't find it either. We wasted about half an hour and missed four buses in the process. I was sad that it could not be found but they have promised to look again on their next visit to Urubamba and if found will send it on to me by post.
The bus ride to Cusco took about an hour and a half and was an adventure in itself. Danielo and I sat in the front and we had the three puppies on our laps to play with them. I was also trying to keep a beautiful big pink rose intact that Alfredo had cut from his garden and given to me. The bus was packed as usual, the aisles full of people standing, old ladies sitting on the floor etc and everyone was enchanted with the puppies. People were talkative and very friendly and it was lovely. When we ascended the mountain and I had my last view of the River Urubamba on the valley floor, getting further and further away, I felt really sad.
I just adored that place - my second visit there being just as enjoyable as the first time. Because the search for the hat delayed us so much, we didn't get back to the house at Cusco until 12 noon which was the time I was supposed to be meeting the band. Luckily I had their cellular telephone number so was able to ring and spoke to Milton and told them I would make my way direct to Casuron del Inca and meet them there, instead of going to Plaza de Armas and delaying them - the traffic in Cusco was horrendous - as lots of things were going on in the town, but fortunately from Marca Valle it was possible to skirt the busy part of town and take a shortcut to the hill leading to Sacsaywaman and the restaurant which is about half way up the hill. I actually arrived before them so ordered a beer and chose Ceviche made with trout which was very nice, although my favourite version of Ceviche is made with a local river fish called Pejerrey (Kingfish). I followed this with Caldo de Gallina which is a Cusco special soup with chicken, yucca, rice and two types of potato. The band arrived while I was enjoying the soup and it was great to see them again. Leonarda was with them and came to join me at my table, and I ordered more beer and asked for more glasses so that she and the entire band could have a drink as well. Soon they were playing and both Leonarda and I enjoyed the show. When they played my favourite song Sacsaywaman we even got up and had one dance, as the band were playing to all the diners in the covered outdoor terrace and we were in full sunlight behind them. After they finished they came to our table and joined us until the beer was finished.
Then we all played that game called Sapo where you throw gold discs trying to get them to land in the frog’s mouth but if they missed there were holes they could fall into, into the drawer beneath, which each had a points value which was totalled up afterwards. I didn't do too badly but even with several attempts didn't succeed in getting any to land in the frog’s mouth!
After this Milton, Angel and I got a taxi back to Cusco and went to Quinta Zarate and shared another couple of bottles of beer. It was great sitting in that lovely garden again, especially as several humming birds hovered in nearby flowers and I managed to get a couple of pictures. Enjoying the beautiful view of Cusco for the very last time I got sadder and sadder at the thought of leaving and even shed a few tears over it, which was really embarassing! By 5 pm I wanted to get back to the house so that I could finish the packing before going out that evening, so they walked with me to the nearest point and hailed a taxi for me, and we arranged that I would see them at Tomines at 8 pm as usual.
Back home I managed to get both suitcases closed - with extreme difficulty - and had to leave quite a few things behind. I also had time for a quick shower and got ready and downstairs was able to relax with Alfredo and Danielo for a bit along with a couple of ladies (friends of theirs) who called in for a quick visit. Then when it was time for me to leave and get the taxi the ladies came too and shared my taxi, with them getting out halfway.
When I got out of the taxi outside Tomines I could see the whole band outside, and Milton immediately introduced me to his wife who had just arrived from Juliaca. I in turn immediately invited her to join me for the meal and we were lucky to get a table right near the stage - the restaurant being really full at this time. She was quite shy about ordering food, so when I told her I was having the Dieta de Pollo (a fantastic chicken soup) and would she like the same, she agreed. She chose freshly pressed orange juice to go with it and I opted for the fresh pineapple juice.
The band gave a really fantastic performance - their best yet - really animated and full of fun and all the crowded tables really enjoyed them, some getting up to dance, and even singing along to a couple of the songs. They did really well in CD sales and when they did the Sacsaywaman song Angel dedicated it to me, their gran amiga going back to Inglaterra, which was nice. Afterwards one of them went off to Meson de Espaldero, another restaurant, to see if they could play there as well and we waited until he got back. The answer was yes so we all made our way on foot, the band going on ahead with us following more leisurely. At Meson we enjoyed another live show, the management not minding us sitting at a table without ordering anything. Here again the restaurant was very busy, mostly with American tourists, but they were not so lucky with CD sales there. Although an expensive restaurant, not one person bought their CD. And out of one big table full of American tourists, about 16 people, only one of them put money in the tray which from where I was sitting looked like a miserable half sole. I could hardly believe it when they were being so beautifully entertained.
Afterwards we waited in the restaurant while the band quickly took the instruments home and about 20 minutes later Milton and Angel returned. We went around to Okukes but the place was so packed, with no chance of a table, that we decided against going in and went to Fernando’s bar instead, the four of us getting a table in the corner, ordering one large bottle of beer at a time to share and in fact I enjoyed myself in there just as much if not more because we could all chat and actually hear each other which wouldn't have been the case in Okukes. And Fernando, bless his heart, remembered I liked Andean music and played some beautiful CDs, and later when we asked him if he would play the Takillakta CD he played it three times all the way through. Although I already had that CD at home I asked Angel how much it was as I wanted a copy to listen to on the long journey home. Neither he nor Milton would hear of me buying it - they gave it to me instead and wrote some beautiful words on the cover and both signed it. Also Milton had brought the photos of him and Angel when they starred in a film for German cable television about the Incas - and they let me choose which ones I wanted to borrow to get copies for myself. I chose about six and felt really honoured that they were trusting me with their only copies, the negatives long since lost. They also showed me a set of photos of the band, which were taken for promotional reasons and asked me to choose a couple from that selection as well. So I have an excellent set of photos of them both - plus Marco who also starred in the film - as well as two excellent pictures of all six of them - and they wrote nice words on the back of those two photos as well.
All in all it was a very pleasant evening, and a great way to spend my last night in Cusco with such lovely new friends. We were going to keep in touch by email and both Milton and his wife said that if I'm ever in Juliaca I must go and stay at their house. They both hoped that if I managed to return to Peru in February I would go the Calendaria fiesta at Puno - all the band would also be there. Outside they hailed a taxi for me, again making a note of the number, and I said my goodbyes - by the time I got home it was almost 3 am, and I had to set my alarm for 5.30!
