On the way to the restaurants surrounding Plaza des Armas, we came across a street seller and I bought another jacket, this time one for me and then another seller produced the beautiful baby alpaca wall hangings and was selling them incredibly cheaply - I bought three for the same price as I had paid the previous evening just for one - two the same size and one circular smaller one, about 2 foot six in diameter. I decided thereafter that I would only buy from street sellers and avoid all the shops, the savings being so great, plus I had to be careful to ensure I did not run out of money.
We found a nice restaurant, me opting to go for that one because I could hear an Andean band playing inside. I really enjoyed that band too, and at one point a group of three dancers in costume joined in one of their songs. It was great and there was a CD on offer but they wanted 50 soles for it so I declined, as I had already decided to pay for the meal as it was quite expensive. I wanted something different so opted for Alpaca and I enjoyed it very much - it tasted far better than the juiciest lamb steak, was served up medium to medium rare and a real treat. After that we had to get back as we had prearranged with Danielo that we would be back by 10 pm and we only just got back in time.
On my last day during that first visit to Cusco we went to Plaza des Armas again - I wanted to climb that hill towards Sacsayhauman just far enough to capture those glorious views of Cusco below us in a series of photos but in the end there was not enough time. Amazingly apart from that first day I coped with the altitude there brilliantly - I never even noticed the difference with all that hill climbing the previous day even though Sacsayhuaman is several hundred feet higher even than Cusco itself. I decided that upon my next visit in July I would revisit that sacred fortress and feel the magic of the place without the thousands of people there. You really did get a sense of how sacred that ground was, a feeling of pure and happy well-being.
Down the Hill to CuscoI was very relieved and happy that day as well to finally have news of my friends in Ilo. First of all, they phoned and spoke to Alfredo while I was in the shower in the morning and were happy to know I was okay and assured Alfredo that all was well with them. Then whilst having breakfast there was satellite news on television with people being interviewed in Arequipa and I was amazed to see Hugito and he actually spoke and said how worried he was about his parents and family in Ilo. Later on we spoke on the phone (as I suddenly remembered he had a cellular phone) and he was able to assure me that he had heard from his parents that morning and that they were safe and well. And when I got to the Internet cafe later, I was overjoyed to find a reply to my emails - that they were safe and well and even the house was okay. I was so relieved as according to what we saw on television, people were without electricity or water, many very hungry as they had no money on them when the disaster occurred, and emergency supplies were being sent to help people cope. There was even a video of the earthquake as it happened in Arequipa and it did look worse there than what we encountered in Cusco. Roads were shown covered in huge boulders so I was not even sure whether I would be able to go back to Ilo on 5 July as planned as it seemed unlikely the roads would be passable that soon.
Our first plan that day was to go and drink the popular favourite Peruvian tipple called CHICHA, made from fermented maize, which despite being in Peru for two weeks I had not yet tried! We got a taxi and instead of getting off in the centre as usual, we went through some really narrow streets to a part of town that no foreigner with any sense would be unwise enough to venture, and we went to a typical chicha bar which also served food. I opted for the frutillada version, which also has strawberries, added to the fermentation and it was really delicious, almost like a milkshake and you had to keep shaking the glass to keep the froth foaming. We enjoyed two pints and then called it a day as Alfredo said that drink is really potent and catches you unawares if you have too many. I did not fancy any of the food on offer as it was mainly beef dishes so we decided to look for a restaurant or cafe which offered either Rocoto Relleno, Adobe de Chancho, Alpaca steak or Sopa de Gallina, these four being my favourites of everything tried until then. Before leaving the chicha bar I went to the loo which was in the kitchen. That was the second time I have been in such kitchens - our Environmental Health Inspectors would faint on the spot! Live squawking chickens underfoot, blackened pots on ancient stoves etc. None of that put me off though - Peruvian food was so incredibly delicious that one overlooked any shortcomings and hoped the actual cooking process would destroy any germs!!! We searched for a while for a place selling my favourite dishes but none of those visited had any of them.
On the way we came across a crowd lining both sides of a street as a marching Andean (panpipe and bombo) band and colourful dancers were going by - we only watched for about five minutes though as this was a rough part of town and some of the crowd were rowdy and both Alfredo and I sensed menace in the air. He drew me away and said it was too dangerous to linger and although we were a long way from the centre we started walking in that direction. I carried my rucksack in front with both arms firmly clasped around it, my camera round my neck and tucked well down inside my clothing out of sight (even my shirt collar turned inside out over the strap to keep that hidden) and my money belt tucked well down inside my trousers. Alfredo walked behind me to make sure I came to no harm and it was a long walk down narrow streets with little shops each side and I stopped at one of them and bought ginger and garlic so that I had all the necessary spices to take to Bolivia. I tried to look really nonchalent, as if walking in such places was a regular thing for me, and it was either that or Alfredo's presence behind me but no one bothered me and one or two sellers even smiled as I passed. Whenever I had to turn left or right Alfredo said so behind me. There was an occasional police presence so that helped a little - one by the marching band which probably enabled us to get away from there without incident and we passed one more before we came to the next big market. This one looked a lot more dangerous than the one where I had bought my poncho and even though there was traffic as well - walking in the road being hazardous as the standard of driving is horrific - there was no way I was going to walk on the pavements behind those stalls where I would have been far more vulnerable to attack. I expect people reading my emails wondered why I loved it there so much with so many dangers for the unwary. None of that, even the wandering scavenging dogs, put me off. The beauty of the place, the warmth and loveliness of most of the people (there are bad elements in every country, and that in Peru was probably more due to desperation and poverty), the joyfulness of life there even while poverty was all around, all this worked its magic on me and made me really glad I went. I was so grateful to Alfredo to have seen real Peruvian life despite the risks. I would not have gone 10 paces in such places alone without being robbed or attacked and although I felt some unease I had every faith in Alfredo's protection - such a lovely man, a gentleman through and through.
Having tried a few places we eventually came upon the restaurant where Aquiles celebrated his birthday when he was there in February. We chose a platter of Lechon, Rocoto Relleno, salad, rice and chips - Lechon being the name of the delicious roast pork dish we had at Sacsaywaman the day before, although this Peruvian version was not as tasty as the one purchased from the Bolivian lady at Sacsaywaman. After that we continued on our way to the centre taking some photos along the way. It was cooler than usual with only spasmodic sunshine, very cloudy and a chill breeze - the worst day since I had been here really as pretty well every day was sunny and warm - an incredible contrast to the night-time - during the day you can walk around in camisole tops but the conditions are wintry at night and if you knew you would still be out at nightfall you needed warm clothes for later. That is why I had two Peruvian knitted hats - forgetting to take the first one with me one evening - they really did keep you warm.
Being back in Plaza des Armas it was very different without the nonstop fiesta taking place every day since I arrived, but it was still a great place to be all the same - lovely Andean music still evident, either from musicians playing in restaurants or from loudspeakers of shops selling CDs - And my goodness, I could have spent a fortune on the CDs. Whilst in the plaza we went into the second smaller Cathedral, a beautiful Jesuit one, and it was incredibly beautiful, with wonderful wall murals and paintings and heavy use of intricately carved wood and gold plate. After the cathedral we went to a nearby craft fair to look around. I dearly wanted to buy the 4-part CD rom of Cusco, Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Inti Raymi, everything - all interactive - and a great price at only 20 soles, only to discover it could only be played on a PC - there was no Apple Mac version. From there we went to a coffee shop in the plaza where artists, poets and authors congregated and enjoyed some delicious coffee there. The coffee in Cusco was about the richest and best I had ever tasted and was made in a funny looking metal contraption. You then poured about an inch of coffee concentrate into your cup and topped it up with boiling water.
By this time we were feeling peckish again so decided to see what set menus were on offer - these were really excellent value at around 10 soles each although finding one with the right combination was a challenge. People in Cusco love their beef and there were various specialities such as stuffed cow’s heart, which I only had to see on a menu to give that place a wide berth! As we neared one restaurant the owner was outside trying to get people to look at his menu and I stopped to look and he was such a nice charming man that I wanted to go in there even though none of the things we were looking for were on the menu! It was more European style. However, Alfredo wanted to check out a few more so we went on our way, with me promising we would come back on another day.
Not long after we found one which had Alpaca steak among the main course choices and a soup quite similar to Gallina among the starters so went in and the meal was excellent. There were two Dutch men on the next table - well one was probably another nationality as they were talking in English and when I realised they were there to learn Spanish and do voluntary work I asked for some details. It certainly sounds a great thing to do for people who have just finished their studies like them, before they start a working career. They were living in host families, attending Spanish classes the first few weeks and would then go on to do voluntary work. With accommodation and food provided, what a great way to experience a country like those in South America. People from all over the world were attending those classes, including loads from North America.
When we left the restaurant we only got a few yards down the road when we came to an open door and I could see a man playing the harp in a cafe and came to a skidding halt! We went in as the lady said we could just go in to listen if we wanted. The harp player who was quite old was really charming and nice and I had a photo taken with him and made one or two requests and then when I bought some Cusqueña beers I bought him one as well, much to his delight. Altogether we stayed listening for about half an hour before looking for a taxi home. We got back about 10 pm and I then went to bed as I wanted to pack my case ready for the morning, having set my alarm for 6 am so that I would have plenty of time to get ready.
When we flagged down a taxi next morning to take us to the airport, the driver slung my suitcase onto the roof rack of his small vehicle without even securing it, to which I loudly protested and had it alongside me on the back seat instead, agreeing readily to the higher than usual fare (I always paid all our travel expenses as well as around two thirds of meals and other expenses). The state of Peruvian roads I doubted if the case would have stayed on until the first bend!!! We arrived at the airport two hours before the La Paz flight.
It was quite a slow process checking in - one long queue to check in the luggage and then another long one to pay the 10 dollars airport tax. After that we had about three quarters of an hour to walk about, looking at souvenirs etc. I bought a lovely Texas style hat with Peruvian design on it, which for once was a hat that did not look too bad on me, or send me into hysterics if I took a look in a mirror! At 10 am I headed for the departure lounge, once Alfredo had ascertained it was okay for me to go through. We said our goodbyes and I gave him a fierce hug and kiss on the cheek to which he reciprocated and I promised to phone him and let him know I arrived okay.
When I went through the Xray machine it pealed loudly and I had to be checked thoroughly to see what it was - it turned out to be the metal rivets each side on my beige cotton around the neck passport holder. Both my bags were then thoroughly checked - which is not a bad thing as there is always the danger that someone might slip something into your hand luggage - you have to be really vigilant to make sure they don't - there are posters everywhere to warn people and a hefty prison sentence for anyone caught carrying drugs.
The plane coming in from La Paz was late arriving so by the time those passengers and their luggage disembarked we were late boarding the plane, with take off about a half hour later than that scheduled. I had a window seat right at the back of the plane, which is the best place to be in the event of a crash with more chance of surviving, although the wing obscured a good chunk of the view out of the window. I was very impressed with that airline though - although a relatively short flight we were all served an excellent meal and choice of drinks. All we got on the Lan Peru Arequipa to Cusco flight was a glass of Inka Cola!
As always I thoroughly enjoyed the take off and the wonderful vista below as we left Cusco behind and headed into the mountains - but sad to say after ten minutes or so we flew into clouds and could not see much. By the time I looked later after the meal and filling out disembarkation cards, we were flying over what looked like a vast plain surrounded by snow capped mountains and then we were descending towards La Paz itself and I took a few pictures until we hit the ground, even though the wing obscured half the picture and the window was quite dirty.
